Tangier, a city on the northern coast of Morocco where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, has a history marked by its strategic location and cultural diversity. Its history spans ancient civilizations, colonial struggles, and modern transformation.

For many, this is where they make their first step into African territory, after crossing Gibraltar Strait. Although the city doesn’t have as strong Moroccan vibe as other towns further south, it’s a worthy stopover to get the full picture of the history of this fascinating country.

History

Tangier’s origins trace back to antiquity, with evidence of settlement by the Berbers as early as the 5th millennium BCE. According to mythology, the city was named after “Tinjis,” the wife of the Greek hero Antaeus or Hercules. Tangier’s location made it a focal point for early Mediterranean trade and exploration. By the 1st millennium BCE, the Phoenicians and later the Carthaginians had established trading posts there.

During the Roman era, Tangier, known as Tingis, became a significant city within the province of Mauretania Tingitana. It thrived under Roman rule, benefiting from its position as a commercial hub. The city was known for its agricultural exports, particularly olives and grain. By the 3rd century CE, Tingis was designated as the provincial capital. However, with the decline of Roman power in North Africa in the 5th century, Tangier entered a period of relative obscurity.

In the 7th century, Tangier was incorporated into the expanding Islamic Caliphate following the Muslim conquest of North Africa. The city became a launching point for further expansion into the Iberian Peninsula under leaders such as Tariq ibn Ziyad, whose crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar in 711 CE marked the start of Muslim rule in Spain. Tangier flourished as part of the Islamic world, serving as a centre for trade and culture.

Tangier’s strategic location made it a contested city during the medieval period. It was ruled by a succession of Islamic dynasties, including the Idrisids, Almoravids, Almohads, and Marinids. The city frequently changed hands due to internal rivalries and external pressures. Its significance as a port attracted both regional powers and foreign invaders.

By the 15th century, European powers began to take an interest in Tangier, viewing it as a key point for controlling trade routes and securing access to Africa. In 1471, the Portuguese captured Tangier, marking the beginning of European rule. The Portuguese fortified the city but struggled to maintain control due to resistance from local populations and the challenges of governing a distant colony.

Tangier was handed over to England as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when she married King Charles II in 1661. Under British rule, the city was fortified further, but maintaining it proved costly and difficult. Faced with attacks from surrounding tribes and high expenses, the British abandoned Tangier in 1684, and it was returned to Moroccan control under the Alaouite dynasty.

During the 19th century, Tangier became a focal point of international intrigue as European powers jockeyed for influence in Morocco. The city’s strategic position near the Strait of Gibraltar attracted diplomats, spies, and traders. Tangier served as Morocco’s diplomatic capital and became known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere. Its mixed population included Moroccans, Europeans, and Jews, reflecting its role as a crossroads of cultures.

In 1923, Tangier was designated as an international zone under a multinational agreement. This unique arrangement gave administrative authority to several European powers, including France, Spain, and Britain, while nominally remaining under Moroccan sovereignty. The international zone attracted a mix of expatriates, artists, and adventurers, earning a reputation as a hub of espionage and bohemian culture during the interwar period.

After Morocco gained independence from French and Spanish colonial rule in 1956, Tangier was reintegrated into the country. This transition ended its international status, and the city underwent significant changes. While its prominence diminished in the mid-20th century, Tangier experienced a cultural revival in the 1960s, attracting figures from the Beat Generation and counterculture movements.

In recent decades, Tangier has undergone extensive modernization and development. The construction of the Tanger-Med port, one of the largest in Africa, has revitalized the city’s economy. Today, Tangier is a vibrant cultural and economic centre, blending its rich historical heritage with contemporary growth. Its medina, kasbah, and historical landmarks continue to draw visitors, while its position as a gateway between Africa and Europe remains as significant as ever.

How to get there?

By Air

Tangier’s Ibn Battuta Airport (TNG) serves as the primary gateway for travellers arriving by plane. It offers flights from major Moroccan cities as well as international destinations in Europe and beyond.

From the airport, Tangier city centre is about 15 kilometres away, easily reachable by taxi or private transfer.

By Train

High-Speed Train (Al Boraq) connects Tangier to Casablanca in just over 2 hours, with stops in Rabat and Kenitra. Trains are comfortable, reliable, and fast, making this a preferred option for many travellers.

Conventional trains also serve Tangier, linking it with other cities at a lower cost but longer travel times.

By Car

Tangier is accessible by car via Morocco’s modern highway system.

From Casablanca to Rabat:

The A1 highway connects Tangier to southern cities. Driving from Casablanca takes around 4–5 hours.

From Spain:

Travellers can take a car ferry from Algeciras or Tarifa and drive into Tangier upon arrival.

Car rentals are widely available, and the roads are well-maintained. However, driving in Tangier’s city centre can be challenging due to narrow streets and heavy traffic.

By Bus

CTM and Supratour offer comfortable and reliable services, with routes connecting Tangier to cities like Chefchaouen, Fez, and Marrakech.

Other Operators also operate buses, though quality and reliability vary.

By Boat

Tangier is a key maritime hub with ferry connections across the Mediterranean and has two main ports:

Port of Tangier Ville: Located near the medina, ideal for tourists.

Tanger-Med Port: A larger port about 40 kilometres from the city, primarily for cargo and long-distance ferries.

From Spain:

Ferries operate from Tarifa and Algeciras to Tangier. The Tarifa-Tangier Ville route is particularly popular for its convenience and proximity to the city centre.

Travel time ranges from 1 to 2 hours depending on the route and ferry service.

From Gibraltar:

Seasonal or charter ferries may operate, but check availability as schedules vary.

From France or Italy:

Long-distance ferries occasionally connect Tangier with southern Europe, but these routes are less frequent.

By Shared Taxi

Shared taxis, known as grands taxis, operate on intercity routes and are a cost-effective way to reach Tangier from nearby towns like Tetouan or Chefchaouen. They usually depart once full and can be a more local, immersive experience.

How to get around Tangier?

Getting around Tangier is relatively easy thanks to its variety of transportation options. Whether you’re exploring the medina, visiting the beaches, or venturing to nearby attractions, you can choose the method that best suits your needs.

Walking

Best for exploring the old medina, kasbah, and central areas. Wear comfortable shoes, as the medina has steep, cobbled streets and be mindful of street vendors and locals offering unsolicited guidance; they may expect tips.

Petit Taxis

These small, blue taxis are the most common form of transportation in Tangier. They are metered, but you may need to remind drivers to use the meter. Taxis are cheaper during the day; night fares may have a 50% surcharge.

Grand Taxis

Best for travelling to nearby destinations like Cap Spartel, Achakar Beach, or Chefchaouen. They are larger and can carry up to 6 passengers. Shared rides are cost-effective but depart only when full; private hires are quicker but more expensive.

Public Buses

Best for budget-friendly travellers as the cost is around 5–8 MAD per trip. They may be crowded, especially during rush hours.

Tourist Transport (Hop-On, Hop-Off Buses)

Best for sightseeing without the hassle of navigating public transportation. Tickets often include commentary about the city’s history and landmarks and they cost around 150–200 MAD for a day pass.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Tangier largely depends on your preferences for weather, activities, and crowd levels.

Spring (March to May)

Temperatures are mild, ranging from 15°C to 25°C. Clear skies and blooming flowers make this a delightful season. Ideal for exploring the medina, hiking in the Rif Mountains, or enjoying the beaches without the intense heat. Moderate tourist levels make it easy to enjoy the city without overcrowding.

Summer (June to August)

Warm and sunny, with temperatures between 20°C and 30°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Perfect for beach outings at nearby spots like Achakar Beach or Cap Spartel. The city is lively with cultural festivals and events. High tourist season, especially in July and August, with visitors from Europe and Morocco. Accommodation prices are higher, and attractions may be busier.

Autumn (September to November)

Comfortable temperatures (17°C to 27°C), with the summer heat fading but still warm enough to enjoy the outdoors. Great for cultural exploration and coastal activities. The sea is still warm for swimming, and sunsets are particularly beautiful. Less busy than in summer, offering a quieter experience while still enjoying favourable weather.

Winter (December to February)

Cooler but mild, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 18°C. Rain is more frequent, but not usually disruptive. Great for sightseeing in the medina, kasbah, and museums. Winter is less ideal for beaches but good for a peaceful, crowd-free visit. Low tourist season, making it a budget-friendly time. Hotels and flights are often cheaper.

Where to stay?

I spent my first two days in town in Dar Essaki 1886. It was located in a very narrow street inside the medina and the decoration and atmosphere inside were great. However, the room was claustrophobic and it was difficult to move around.

Then, I moved to an amazing apartment that I found on AirBnB and which was hosted by Muhammad. It was huge! Fast Wi-FI was available, there was a heater in the bedroom (useful in December) and the view from the rooftop terrace was breathtaking!

What to see in Tangier?

Grand Socco

One of the most iconic and vibrant places in Tangier. Officially named Place du 9 Avril 1947 to commemorate a significant speech by Sultan Mohammed V advocating for Moroccan independence.

Historically, the Grand Socco served as a large open-air marketplace where locals gathered to trade goods such as produce, textiles, and spices. Its lively market scene made it the heart of Tangier’s daily life.

During the period of international influence in Tangier (early to mid-20th century), the Grand Socco became a meeting point between the European colonial quarters and the traditional Moroccan medina.

The Grand Socco is no longer a market in the traditional sense, but it remains a lively, dynamic square filled with a mix of street vendors, locals, and tourists. It is surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and small shops offering a range of goods and services. It’s a great place to simply chill on the bench and people-watch.

Around the square, there are Mendoubia Garden, Cinema Rif and Bab Al Fahs, all worth checking out.

Mendoubia Gardens provide a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle, featuring ancient trees and shaded walkways.

Cinema Rif is a well-known cultural establishment. which functions as a movie theatre, cafe and cultural hub. Its charm and character are enhanced by the fact that it is located in a historic building that was constructed in the 1930s.

Bab Al Fahs serves as one of the main entrances to Tangier’s old medina, making it a starting point for exploring the city’s historical heart.

Tangier American Legation Museum

Morocco was the first country to formally recognize the United States’ independence in 1777, during the American Revolutionary War. The Tangier Legation was established in 1821 when Sultan Moulay Suliman gifted the property to the U.S. government.

The building functioned as a diplomatic mission for more than 140 years, serving as the U.S. consulate and legation. It played a key role in fostering U.S.-Morocco relations. The legation also served as a hub for diplomacy during critical periods, including World War II.

The museum includes letters exchanged between Sultan Mohammed III and American presidents like George Washington and an impressive collection of paintings.

Museum Dar Niaba

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tangier was an international zone governed by multiple powers. The Dar Niaba was originally the residence and office of the Naib (Deputy), a representative of the Moroccan Sultan.

The building retains its traditional Moroccan architectural style, featuring elegant tilework, carved wooden ceilings, and a central courtyard typical of Moroccan riads. Inside, you can see documents, maps, correspondence, treaties and artefacts related to Tangier’s political history and its role as an international zone.

Grande Mosque

The site originally hosted a Roman temple during the Mauretania Tingitana period. During the Portuguese (1471–1661) and later English occupation (1661–1684), it was converted into the Church of the Holy Spirit.

After Sultan Moulay Ismail reclaimed Tangier in 1684, the church was transformed into a mosque, symbolizing the return to Islamic rule.

Sultan Moulay Slimane rebuilt it in the 19th century, creating the mosque we see today, with traditional Moroccan architectural elements.

Moshe Nahon Synagogue

In the 19th century, Moïse Nahon, a well-known scholar and educator from a powerful Jewish family in Tangier, built this synagogue. After ceasing operations in the latter half of the 20th century, the synagogue deteriorated until it was restored in 1994. Today, it serves as a museum.

Lorin Foundation Museum

The Lorin Foundation Museum, which was once one of Tangier’s oldest synagogues, has been transformed into an art museum to document and honour the city’s past. There are extensive collections of photographs, newspaper clippings, and posters that document important events and provide insights into the lives of the city’s ordinary people.

Petit Socco

It used to be the most infamous intersection in town and the scene of drug sales and many types of prostitution. Today the facades are newly painted, there are lots of tourists, and the square is a great place to enjoy a cup of mint tea while observing the people.

Immaculate Conception Church

Just west of the Petit Socco stands the church whose construction was funded by the Obra Pía and the Spanish government and began in October 1880. It was complemented in 1892-93 by the edification of a clock tower, originally topped with a spire and later changed to the present-day cupola. The church initially served the whole city’s Catholic community, including European diplomats.

Mosque Mohammed V

The Mohammed V Mosque bears the name of Mohammed V, who ruled Morocco as king from 1957 to 1961 and as sultan from 1927 to 1953. The mosque is among the largest in Morocco and the largest in Tangier. Access to the mosque’s main area is restricted to Muslims who are there to pray.

Just next to the mosque, you may find grand taxis heading to Cap Spartel.

Tomb of Ibn Batutta

Ibn Battuta, a scholar and judge, was born in Tangier in 1304 and became the greatest traveller of the era First, he traversed North Africa, the Middle East, Russia, Central Asia, and China before returning via Sri Lanka and East Africa. Then, he made a halt at home and continued travelling to West Africa over the Sahara before deciding to put everything in writing in 1355.

Unfortunately, the tomb is locked so you can only see it outside.

Saint Andrew’s Church

This Anglican church was finished in 1894 on land given by Sultan Hassan. Its interior is ornamented in the high Fassi style, and above the altar is the Lord’s Prayer in Arabic. Quranic quotations are engraved onto a fissure behind the altar that points in the direction of Mecca. It’s worth spending some time in the cemetery too.

Place Faro

It is more like a big, wide sidewalk than a square, but the views of the ocean and Spain are nice.

Kasbah and the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures

A historic fortified area, perched on a hill overlooking the city and the Strait of Gibraltar. It features narrow streets, traditional Moroccan architecture, and important landmarks such as the Sultan’s Palace (Dar el-Makhzen).

Inside the palace, there is the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, which showcases the diverse heritage of the Mediterranean region. Its exhibits include ancient artefacts, ceramics, jewellery, and artwork highlighting the historical interactions between Morocco and neighbouring Mediterranean cultures.

Museum of Contemporary Art

Just next to the Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures and on the same ticket. This place presents an intriguing collection of contemporary works of art by artists from North Africa and Asia. Unfortunately, no English descriptions.

Bab Al Bahr

The most scenic entrance to the medina, which dates back to the 15th century. Soldiers protecting Tangier kept watch for invading fleets from this location, which is also known as the Gate of the Sea because it overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar.

Phoenician Toms

The ancient burial sites carved into the rock, date back to the Phoenician era (approximately 8th–6th centuries BCE). Located on a hill overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, these tombs are a testament to Tangier’s early history as a key port and settlement in the Mediterranean. Very cool and scenic place!

The Phoenicians were an influential seafaring people from the Eastern Mediterranean (modern-day Lebanon). They established trading posts across the Mediterranean, including Tangier, which was a strategic hub.

These tombs are linked to later periods when Carthage and Rome exerted influence in the region, blending Phoenician culture with North African traditions.

Marshan Palace

The structure was first constructed in the early 1950s to house the Tangier International Zone Legislative Assembly. The structure was converted into a monarchy property after Morocco gained independence in 1956 and was proclaimed a kingdom on August 14, 1957. King Mohammed VI renovated the palace in the 2010s to use it as a location for diplomatic gatherings.

It is not open to the public and can only be seen from the outside.

Palais des Institutions Italiennes

It was constructed in 1912–1913 to serve as the former Sultan Abdelhafid’s primary house after his abdication, but it was never put to use. After being acquired by Italy in 1927, it was renamed Palazzo Littorio and housed several government buildings, including a hospital and schools. It was renamed Casa d’Italia by the Badoglio administration in 1943, and the Palace of the Italian Institutions was the new name a few years later. Despite being refurbished in the early 2000s and still housing a variety of Italian-related activities, it has long been neglected.

It is not open to the public and can only be seen from the outside.

Merkala Beach

A small beach surrounded by mountains in the west of Tangier. Follow the seafront promenade to get there, which is a beautiful walk.

Rmilat Park & Villa Perdicaris

The 70-hectare public park is situated between the Jebel Kebir Royal Palace to the east and the Cape Spartel reserve to the west on the northern slopes of the Jebel Kebir peak, which faces the Strait of Gibraltar. It bears the name of Ion Hanford Perdicaris, a Greek-American renowned figure who set it up in the 1870s and erected an eclectic villa in the middle. He was abducted there during the Perdicaris Incident in 1904.

Ion Perdicaris and his stepson were kidnapped by a Berber warlord named Ahmed al-Raisuli, who was both a bandit and a political rebel. Raisuli demanded a ransom, political concessions, and safe passage in exchange for Perdicaris and his stepson.

Although Perdicaris was not a U.S. citizen at the time (he had renounced his citizenship), President Theodore Roosevelt treated the case as a national priority. He ordered U.S. warships to Tangier to exert pressure on the Moroccan Sultan and Raisuli.

The incident was resolved without violence. The Moroccan Sultan negotiated with Raisuli, meeting many of his demands, including the ransom. Perdicaris and his stepson were released unharmed.

Villa Perdicaris can be visited but the entry is paid and it costs 7 times more for foreign visitors than for locals and I decided to skip it due to this fact.

Dar Al-Baroud Tower

Borj Dar El Baroud was a military fortress with a number of impressive batteries that date back to the 15th century. Along with a collection of weaponry and military gear, the location is devoted to a permanent display that chronicles the history of the city’s artillery and defended buildings using maps, photographs, and models.

Municipal Beach

Nice public beach for a longer stroll or just relaxing. You can pay a few dirhams to rent a plastic chair. Additionally, it’s possible to ride a horse or a camel. There are lots of bars and restaurants nearby.

What to see out of town?

Cape Spartel and Hercules Caves

Cape Spartel Hercules Caves are great spots to check out if you’re visiting Tangier for more than one day. Visiting them will take you about half a day, but you can easily make it a full day if the weather is hot enough to let you spend some time enjoying beautiful nearby beaches.

You can read more about these places in a separate post HERE.

Rabat, the capital city of Morocco, boasts a fascinating history that spans thousands of years. Situated on the Atlantic coast at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, it has evolved from a modest settlement to a political and cultural hub. Rabat’s story intertwines with the rise and fall of empires, the spread of Islamic civilization, and the colonial period, all of which have left their mark on the city’s character and architecture.

The origins of Rabat can be traced to ancient times when the Phoenicians and Carthaginians used the region as a trading post. The area later came under Roman control and became part of the province of Mauretania Tingitana. During this era, a settlement called Sala Colonia flourished near present-day Rabat, with remnants of this Roman city still visible at the Chellah archaeological site.

Rabat began to take shape as a major city during the 12th century under the Almohad dynasty. Sultan Abd al-Mu’min established a military fortification known as Ribat al-Fath (“fortress of victory”) to protect against invaders and serve as a base for military campaigns in Andalusia. His successor, Sultan Yaqub al-Mansur, envisioned Rabat as a grand imperial capital. He began constructing monumental structures, including the Hassan Tower and an immense mosque. Although the mosque was never completed after his death, the Hassan Tower remains a defining symbol of the city.

After the Almohad dynasty, Rabat experienced periods of decline until the 17th century, when it became a haven for pirates. The Republic of Bou Regreg was established by a coalition of corsairs who controlled the area and launched raids on European ships. This semi-autonomous republic brought wealth and notoriety to Rabat and neighbouring Salé, though its dominance declined over the following century.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Rabat became part of the Alaouite dynasty’s realm, but it remained relatively quiet compared to other Moroccan cities. This changed during the French colonial period in the early 20th century. In 1912, France established a protectorate over Morocco and chose Rabat as the administrative capital. Under the leadership of French architect Henri Prost, the city underwent significant modernization, with the creation of a European-style administrative district alongside its historic medina.

When Morocco gained independence in 1956, Rabat retained its status as the capital. Since then, it has served as the political and administrative centre of the country, home to royal palaces, government institutions, and embassies.

In 2012, Rabat was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique blend of historic and modern features. The city showcases a harmonious integration of its Islamic heritage, colonial-era planning, and contemporary urban development. Key landmarks like the Kasbah of the Udayas, the Chellah necropolis, and the Hassan Tower illustrate Rabat’s rich historical layers.

How to get there?

By Air

Rabat-Salé International Airport (RBA): Located about 8 km northeast of the city centre, this airport serves domestic and international flights, with connections to Europe, the Middle East, and some African cities.

You can take a taxi, shuttle bus, or hire a car from the airport to reach the city centre. Taxis are the most common option and typically take 20–30 minutes.

If Rabat’s airport doesn’t suit your itinerary, you can fly into Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport (approximately 1.5–2 hours away) and take a train or taxi to Rabat.

By Train

Morocco’s modern railway system, operated by ONCF, connects Rabat to major cities like Casablanca, Tangier, Fes, and Marrakech.

Rabat has two main train stations:

Rabat Ville Station: Centrally located and ideal for visitors staying in the city centre.

Rabat Agdal Station: Another major station, often used for high-speed trains (Al Boraq).

The high-speed Al Boraq train from Tangier to Casablanca stops in Rabat and offers a comfortable and efficient way to travel. For other routes, regular trains are available and run frequently.

By Car

Rabat is accessible via Morocco’s extensive highway network. Major routes include:

A1 Highway: Connecting Rabat to Casablanca and Tangier.

A2 Highway: Linking Rabat to Fes and Meknes.

Driving is straightforward, and car rentals are available at airports or in major cities.

By Bus

Several long-distance bus companies, such as CTM and Supratours, connect Rabat to other cities in Morocco. The buses are affordable, reliable, and offer comfortable services for intercity travel.

How to get around Rabat?

If you’re visiting Rabat, combining walking, the tram, and petit taxis will give you the easiest and most cost-effective way to explore the city. This mix allows you to enjoy the medina and landmarks at a leisurely pace while having quick transport options for longer distances.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May)

Temperatures are moderate, ranging from 18°C to 25°C. The landscapes are lush and green due to the previous winter rains. It’s a perfect time for outdoor activities, strolling through the medina, or enjoying the beaches. It’s less crowded than summer.

Autumn (September to November)

Similar to spring, with temperatures between 20°C and 27°C. The sea is still warm enough for swimming after the summer heat. Quieter than in summer, with fewer tourists, and the weather is comfortable for sightseeing.

Summer (June to August)

Hot and sunny, with temperatures often reaching 30°C to 35°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Best time for beachgoers, as the beaches are lively and the water is warm. However, it can be crowded, especially with local and international tourists.

Winter (December to February)

Cooler but mild, with temperatures between 10°C and 18°C. Occasional rain is possible. Ideal period for a peaceful visit, as the city is less busy. While beach activities may be limited, it’s a great time to explore cultural and historical attractions.

For the best balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds, spring or autumn is highly recommended.

Where to stay?

During my two visits to town, I stayed in two different places, both of which I can recommend. The first one was “Appartement ideal pour decouvrir la Ville“. Spacious, well-equipped place, ideal for families and within walking distance to the tram. It’s located outside of the medina in a more modern area.

Another place was Dar Ayoub, located inside the medina. I got a private room with a shared bathroom and everything was fine. Very clean place with a super friendly owner.

What to see in Rabat?

Kasbah of the Udayas

Historic fortress and one of the most iconic landmarks in Rabat. It is situated at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. This kasbah, which combines defensive and residential features, dates back to the 12th century and has a rich history tied to the Almoravid, Almohad, and Andalusian cultures.

Originally, it was founded by the Almoravids as a defensive military base in the 12th century. The Almohads fortified the kasbah and expanded it, building the famous gate, Bab Oudaia, and adding other key structures. Later, during the 17th century, the kasbah became home to Andalusian Muslims expelled from Spain, leaving a distinct architectural and cultural imprint.

The residential area is known for its narrow streets and traditional white-and-blue painted houses, reminiscent of Andalusian villages. You should have a look at Bab Oudaia which is a grand entrance gate and architectural masterpiece of the Almohad period, featuring intricate carvings and designs.

On the northern end, there is a fantastic viewpoint of the Bou Regreg River, the Atlantic Ocean, and the city of Sale.

If you need a moment of rest, relax in the Andalusian Gardens. A serene and beautifully landscaped place located within the kasbah, featuring lush vegetation and a tranquil atmosphere. The gardens are free to visit but you will have to buy a ticket to visit the fantastic National Museum of Jewelry & Adornment. Each piece of jewellery, ornament, and traditional attire in this magnificent museum tells a different tale about the various areas and historical eras of the nation.

Rabat Beach

The sand is nice and overall swimming at this beach is a positive experience. You can also take some surfing classes if you wish to. On the other hand, you may spot some garbage around which is a shame, but unfortunately somehow standard in Morocco.

Corniche

Pleasant place for a longer walk with street food, cafes, henna tattoos, and lots of activities for children. The area comes to life, especially in the evening, when locals drop by.

Medina

The Medina of Rabat is the old walled city and a vibrant market. Unlike the medinas in Marrakech or Fes, Rabat’s medina is quieter and less chaotic. Some may like it, some may not 🙂

The medina dates back to the 17th century when it was expanded to accommodate Muslim refugees from Andalusia, following their expulsion from Spain. Therefore, its architecture and layout reflect a blend of Andalusian, Moorish, and traditional Moroccan influences. In 2012, the Medina of Rabat was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of Rabat’s historic cityscape.

The medina’s narrow streets are lined with bustling souks selling a wide variety of goods, including textiles, carpets, leather goods, handcrafted pottery, jewellery, metalwork, spices, fresh produce, and local delicacies.

Rue des Consuls is one of the most famous streets in the medina, it is known for its artisanal shops and traditional handicrafts. Historically, this street was where foreign diplomats (consuls) lived during colonial times. You can enter the street directly through Bab Mellah.

If you turn left into Rue Souika, you will soon pass by the Grand Mosque, which is worth looking at.

National Photography Museum

It’s a beautiful place within the repurposed 19th-century Burj Kebir Fortress, a bit further away from the city centre. The fort is magnificent, and the location on the coast adds some magic to the scenery. As for the museum, you won’t need a lot of time to see all the exhibitions. In my opinion, it’s a bit too small to call it a “national” museum. However, it still deserves a visit.

Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V

The Hassan Tower, an incomplete minaret, dates back to the late 12th century and was part of an ambitious project initiated by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour to create the largest mosque in the world. Although construction stopped after the Sultan’s death, the tower stands as a symbol of his vision. Its intricate red sandstone design and surrounding columns offer a glimpse into the grandeur that was planned for the mosque.

Nearby is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, a stunning architectural masterpiece completed in the mid-20th century. It serves as the final resting place for King Mohammed V, along with his sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. The structure combines traditional Moroccan and Islamic styles, featuring ornate zellige tilework, a green-tiled roof, and marble interiors. Guards in traditional attire add to the ceremonial atmosphere.

St. Peter’s Cathedral

Construction of the cathedral began in 1919, and its chief architect was Adrien Laforgue. The inauguration took place in 1921. The two towers were added in the 1930s.

Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art

This institution launched in 2014 after being planned and financed by the current monarch. Referred to as the nation’s first national museum of modern and contemporary art. It includes a permanent exhibition of Moroccan artwork from the 1950s to the present, as well as some temporary exhibitions. If you are into modern art, this museum is definitely for you. You won’t spend there too long time but it will be a time well spent nevertheless.

Bank Al Maghrib Museum

The Museum’s extensive numismatic and artistic collection spans several centuries of the kingdom’s history. Over 30,000 coins, artefacts, monetary instruments, and banknotes are on display, providing a chronological overview of Moroccan coins and notes from antiquity to the present.

There is also a small exhibit of paintings, including modern and abstract art.

Museum of History and Civilizations

The archaeological museum is divided into two sections: the first covers Morocco’s history over the ages, while the second concentrates on its amazing collection of ceramics, statues, and other artefacts from the Roman settlements at Volubilis, Lixus, and Chellah.

Villa des Arts

In addition to cultural activities, this exquisitely restored, dazzlingly white art deco mansion from 1929 currently hosts contemporary art exhibitions that highlight Moroccan artists, culture, and tradition. Its garden cafe is a wonderful place to chill.

Bab Rouah Gate

A monumental gate in the Almohad-era ramparts. Currently, the gate’s interior has been converted into a small art gallery.

Royal Palace

The Moroccan king’s principal and official palace.

Since the 18th century, when Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah used Rabat as one of his imperial residences and restored royal palaces in other towns, the ‘Alawi sultans and kings have had a palace in town. Mohammed IV replaced the previous palace in 1864 with the present one.

The colonial government intended the sultan to be mostly based in one location, close to their administrative headquarters, to demonstrate his support for the new government when the majority of Morocco was placed under French rule in 1912. When independence was proclaimed in 1955, kings had a variety of palaces at their disposal, but they decided to maintain the palace as the monarch’s principal residence.

Unfortunately, the interior is off-limits to tourists and you may only see the building, or rather the gate leading to it from the outside.

Chellah

A fascinating historical and archaeological site that reflects the layers of Morocco’s rich past. Located on the outskirts of the city, it was originally established as a Phoenician and later Roman settlement known as Sala Colonia. Over time, the site evolved and became a fortified Islamic necropolis in the 14th century under the rule of the Marinid dynasty.

Today, the Chellah is a blend of Roman ruins and medieval Islamic structures, featuring remnants of ancient baths, a forum, and tombs. Visitors can also explore the crumbling walls of a mosque and a minaret adorned with stork nests, as the site has become a haven for these birds.

On the day of my visit (November 2023) the place was closed to visitors but I was quickly approached by a “guide” who offered to take me in. I calmly refused and walked around the walls by myself. If you decide to use the guide’s service, make sure you negotiate the price BEFORE the start of the tour.

Museum of the Prophet’s Biography and Islamic Civilization

This place aims to introduce the prophet’s biography, his great manners, his noble morals, and his flexible teachings, in a distinct scientific and research-based approach, using the latest technologies, and the most advanced and creative presentation tools. Upon arrival, an English-speaking guide was assigned me to and took me around the exhibition in about an hour. It was quite interesting even for a non-Muslim person like me.

It’s located far away from the city centre but you can use public transportation such as tram or bus and then walk or take a taxi.

A trip to Sale

The city holds a rich history dating back to the 11th century when it was founded by the Berbers of the Almoravid dynasty. Positioned on the Atlantic coast and across the Bouregreg River from Rabat, Sale has historically served as a strategic port city, deeply tied to maritime trade, religious scholarship, and later, piracy.

In the medieval period, Salé gained prominence under the Almohad and Marinid dynasties. The construction of grand structures like the Great Mosque in 1196 and the Madrasa Merinide, an Islamic theological school, cemented its importance as a religious and intellectual centre. During the 17th century, the city became a renowned stronghold for the infamous Corsairs, who established the independent Republic of Sale. This short-lived pirate republic was known for its raids on European ships and settlements, making Sale a wealthy, albeit controversial, maritime power.

The Great Mosque, one of the largest and oldest in Morocco, remains a focal point of the city. The Bab Lamrissa, Bab Sebta or Bab Chaafa, are reminders of the fortified city walls that once protected Sale. Another key site is the Marinid necropolis of Chellah, closely associated with Marinid rulers.

The Medina is a vibrant example of Moroccan urban life, with its maze of narrow streets, traditional souks, and artisanal shops. The city’s Kasbah and Andalusian quarter offer glimpses of Andalusian refugees’ influence, who fled Spain during the Reconquista and settled here.

Near the Great Mosque and Medersa Merinide, there is also the Mausoleum of Sidi Abdellah Benhassoun. This Sufi scholar and cleric from the 16th century is the patron saint of Sale. Moroccan Muslims hold him in high regard as a patron of travellers, much like Catholics do with St. Christopher.

Every year on the evening of the Prophet’s birthday, a candlelit procession and pilgrimage in his honour travels through the streets of Sale and ends at this shrine beside the Grand Mosque, which is solely open to Muslims.

Follow Av. Abdelkader Al Harrati to reach Borj Adoumoue (Bastion of Tears). It is a stronghold built in 1261 by the Marinid Sultan Abu Yusuf Yaqub ben Abd al-Haqq. The structure was once known as Borj Adoumoue but the alternative name is linked to the painful memories when ships from Castile anchored in front of Sale in 1260. Soon after, the Castilian warriors landed and launched an unexpected attack on the locals, who were occupied with the Aid al-Fitr feast. The attackers got in via the Borj’s present location. They carried out a horrific slaughter in which many people from Sale died. Three thousand women, children, and elderly people were carried as slaves to Seville. Consequently, after this troubling period in the town’s history, Sultan Yacoub Ben Abdelhaq commanded the building of a massive wall and had a fortified bastion built on the beach which he sadly named the Bastion of Tears or Bastion of Sobs.

Don’t forget to stop at the Sale Beach which is on the west of the medina, on the north side of the Bouregreg rivermouth. Mostly Moroccan families and children playing football, with very few foreigners.

Sale is easily accessible by tram and all sights inside the medina are within walking distance.

Asilah, a picturesque town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, is known for its whitewashed buildings, artistic vibe, and historical significance. The town’s fortified medina is a central attraction, featuring winding streets, colourful murals, and traditional Moroccan architecture.

Asilah’s origins trace back to the 10th century BCE when it served as a Phoenician trading post. Its location along the Atlantic made it an essential stop for maritime trade routes.

Under Roman influence, the area was part of the province of Mauretania Tingitana. It likely functioned as a minor port supporting trade and agricultural activities.

In the 8th century, following the Arab conquest of North Africa, Asilah became part of the expanding Islamic world. Its importance grew as a trading hub and a point of contact between the Islamic and European worlds.

In 1471, the Portuguese captured Asilah and fortified it, making it a strategic base for their expansion in North Africa. They constructed many of the town’s iconic defensive walls and ramparts, which still stand today. Portuguese control brought economic growth but also frequent conflict with Moroccan forces.

The town was retaken by Moroccan forces under the Saadi dynasty in 1549, ending Portuguese rule. Later, during the 17th century, the Alawite dynasty, Morocco’s current ruling house, reasserted control over the region.

During the 17th century, Asilah briefly became a base for pirates operating along the Atlantic. Its strategic location and defensive structures made it ideal for maritime raids.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Asilah fell under Spanish influence as part of the Spanish protectorate in northern Morocco. The town saw a period of relative neglect during this time, which preserved its historical character.

After Morocco’s independence in 1956, Asilah gradually transformed into a cultural and artistic hub. Today, the town is renowned for its annual cultural festival, the Asilah Arts Festival, which draws artists, performers, and visitors from around the world. The event highlights contemporary art, music, and literature, with the town’s walls often serving as canvases for vibrant murals.

The town’s beaches are another draw, offering serene spots for relaxation and water activities. Asilah’s proximity to Tangier makes it a popular destination for day trips, combining coastal charm with cultural richness.

How to get there?

By Air

The nearest airport is Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport, about 30 kilometres away. From there, you can take a taxi, train, or bus to Asilah.

By Train

From Tangier: The train ride is quick and takes about 30–40 minutes. Trains run frequently, making it one of the most convenient options.

From Casablanca or Rabat: Longer train routes connect Asilah with these cities, with travel times around 4–5 hours depending on the train.

By Bus

Long-distance buses from companies like CTM or Supratours connect Asilah to other major cities. This option is more affordable, though travel times can be longer than by train.

By Taxi

Grand Taxis (shared taxis) are another option, especially from Tangier. These are faster than buses but slightly less comfortable. Private taxis can also be arranged for more flexibility.

By Car

Asilah is located along Morocco’s A1 highway, which makes driving a straightforward option. From Tangier, it’s about a 45-minute drive. From Casablanca, it takes about 3.5–4 hours.

How to get around Asilah?

It’s a very compact town so you can easily get around the historic center on foot. Catch a taxi to get to the railway station as it is a bit out of town.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May)

Temperatures are moderate, ranging from 18°C to 25°C. The landscapes are lush and green due to the previous winter rains. It’s a perfect time for outdoor activities, strolling through the medina, or enjoying the beaches. It’s less crowded than summer.

Autumn (September to November)

Similar to spring, with temperatures between 20°C and 27°C. The sea is still warm enough for swimming after the summer heat. Quieter than in summer, with fewer tourists, and the weather is comfortable for sightseeing.

Summer (June to August)

Hot and sunny, with temperatures often reaching 30°C to 35°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Best time for beachgoers, as the beaches are lively and the water is warm. However, it can be crowded, especially with local and international tourists.

Winter (December to February)

Cooler but mild, with temperatures between 10°C and 18°C. Occasional rain is possible. Ideal period for a peaceful visit, as the city is less busy. While beach activities may be limited, it’s a great time to explore cultural and historical attractions.

For the best balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds, spring or autumn is highly recommended.

What to see in Asilah?

Stone defences were constructed by the Portuguese in the fifteenth century around Asilah’s medina. Inside the walls are serene, winding alleyways with white homes that have green or blue accents, making them ideal for photos.

Bab al-Kasaba, the main gateway, leads to Alqamra Tower and the square. A bit further is Kahal Synagogue, constructed In 1824. Over the years, it deteriorated and was largely destroyed. Since January 2022, the synagogue has been undergoing repair and reconstruction as part of an initiative and with financial assistance from the Tangier Jewish community. The synagogue was reopened to the public.

Within the medina, you may encounter a lot of ateliers and small art galleries, so allow yourself to get lost in narrow streets.

The southwest bastion is a well-liked location at sunset and offers the best views of the ocean. Have a look at Saint Francisco Tower and then continue along the seaside promenade to Krikia. It’s a very short but picturesque walk. At a certain time of day, the sea crashes so hard against the walls that it spreads the water and you may even get wet!

The heavily worn Portuguese royal coat of arms is displayed atop Bab Houmar, the southern entrance to the medina.

Outside of the medina walls, stands the Church of Saint Bartolome, constructed in 1925 by Spanish Franciscans in the classic Hispano-Moorish style. It’s one of the few churches in Morocco that is permitted to ring the bells for Sunday Mass.

Asilah Beach extends northward from the town. It’s a broad expanse of golden sand, but the piles of trash on the sand make it less appealing.

Larache is a coastal city in northern Morocco known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and picturesque location along the Atlantic Ocean. It has historical ties to Moorish and Spanish influences, reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. Founded during the Islamic period, it later became an important port city under Spanish rule before returning to Moroccan sovereignty.

The city is particularly famous for its laid-back atmosphere and stunning landscapes, including sandy beaches and the nearby Loukkos River. One of the most notable sites near Larache is Lixus, an ancient archaeological site with Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman ruins. Lixus is believed to have been one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the region and is often associated with myths, including the story of the Labors of Hercules.

The medina (old town) of Larache offers a blend of traditional Moroccan life with Spanish colonial-era influences. Its streets are lined with whitewashed buildings, colourful markets, and small cafes. The city’s vibrant port and fishing industry play a key role in its local economy, contributing to its culinary traditions, which heavily feature fresh seafood.

How to get there?

By Air

The nearest international airports to Larache are:

Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport (TNG): About 85 km north of Larache. From here, you can take a taxi, train or bus.

Rabat-Salé Airport (RBA): Around 150 km south of Larache, also accessible by road or train.

By Train

Larache is not directly served by a train station, but the nearest station is in Ksar El-Kebir, about 30 km away. From Ksar El-Kebir, you can take a shared taxi or local transport to reach Larache.

The ONCF (Moroccan National Railway) network connects major cities like Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, and Fez to Ksar El-Kebir.

By Bus

Several bus companies operate routes to Larache from major cities in Morocco:

CTM: Known for comfort and reliability, offers services from cities like Tangier, Casablanca, Rabat, and Fez.

Private buses: Less expensive but may be less punctual or comfortable.

By Grand Taxi

Shared taxis (Grand Taxis) are a popular way to travel between cities in Morocco. You can take a Grand Taxi to Larache from nearby cities like Tangier, Ksar El-Kebir, or Asilah.

By Car

Larache is easily accessible by car:

From Tangier: Take the A1 highway (approximately 1 hour).

From Rabat or Casablanca: Use the A1 highway heading north.

From Fez: Take the N4 and N1 roads via Ksar El-Kebir.

How to get around Larache?

Once in Larache, small taxis and buses are the most common ways to get around. Walking is also an excellent way to explore the city, especially the medina and the port area.

Where to stay?

I selected La Maison Haute for its great location inside the medina and good quality-to-price ratio. I wasn’t disappointed. There was everything that I needed for my short, one-night stay and the hosts were friendly, even though communication in English was limited. A good breakfast was included in the price.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May)

Temperatures are moderate, ranging from 18°C to 25°C. The landscapes are lush and green due to the previous winter rains. It’s a perfect time for outdoor activities like visiting Lixus, strolling through the medina, or enjoying the beaches. It’s less crowded than summer.

Autumn (September to November)

Similar to spring, with temperatures between 20°C and 27°C. The sea is still warm enough for swimming after the summer heat. Quieter than in summer, with fewer tourists, and the weather is comfortable for sightseeing.

Summer (June to August)

Hot and sunny, with temperatures often reaching 30°C to 35°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Best time for beachgoers, as the beaches are lively and the water is warm. However, it can be crowded, especially with local and international tourists.

Winter (December to February)

Cooler but mild, with temperatures between 10°C and 18°C. Occasional rain is possible. Ideal period for a peaceful visit, as the city is less busy. While beach activities may be limited, it’s a great time to explore cultural and historical attractions.

For the best balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds, spring or autumn is highly recommended.

What to see in Larache?

I started my exploration from Liberation Square (Spanish Square). A very lively spot where local residents gather to catch up with friends and unwind over coffee or tea. This circular plaza was constructed by the Spanish and is located just next to Larache’s historic medina. It is surrounded by exquisite Hispano-Moorish buildings, most of which are now terrace cafes. There are lots of palm palms and a fountain which makes it an ideal spot to relax and observe people.

While walking around the square, you can’t miss the huge Bab al-Khemis, which is the entrance to the medina. Over the past century, not much has changed in the blue-and-white area. It is mostly residential and centred on the expansive covered market known where household products and fresh food are offered for sale.

Fort Kebibat at the northern end of the medina is a 16th-century fort, built by the Portuguese. Unfortunately, today it lays in ruins with lots of trash around and cannot be visited. From there, it’s a good idea to have a walk along the corniche, or even have a glass of tea at the terraces to enjoy panoramic views over the Loukos River and the port.

There is not much to see in the port itself unless you want to buy fresh fish at the pier. You may have it grilled for you at one of the restaurants nearby.

On the other side of the Loukos River, you may find the best beach in town, known as Peligrosa. It’s reachable by small boats from the port and corniche area or you can drive there by car, taking the less direct way passing by Lixus Archeological Site.

Worth mentioning is also the Church of Our Lady of the Pilar which dates back to 1931 and is located near Liberation Square. Very pretty from the outside but unfortunately, it was closed to visitors on the day of my visit. Today it is the center of a local community that organizes cultural activities.

A short walking distance from the church stands the Laqaliq Castle (Stork’s Castle). This is another stunning example of Renaissance military architecture. Originally having imposing bastions at each angle until one was lost, the castle takes the shape of an equilateral triangle. Up until the sixteenth century, it served as the medina’s institutional and representative hub and protected the road leading to Fez.

Nearby, you will notice the Jewish Tower. Oral histories state that the incorrect name resulted from the widespread rumour that a Jewish doctor who lived in that tower treated Sultan Alsaadi during the well-known Wadi Almakhain Battle in the sixteenth century.

There is a large Muslim Cemetery on the other side of the road.

I left the best for the end and after finishing sightseeing around the city centre, I took a taxi to Lixus Archeological Site. I was the only tourist there which added to the experience and made the experience more intimate. The atmosphere was amazing and I especially liked the part of the ruins located on top of the hill with wide-open panoramic views. But let me share with you the historical background of Lixus!

Lixus was founded by the Phoenicians around the 7th or 8th century BCE as a trading post. Its location near the Loukkos River made it an important center for trade and maritime activity. The fertile land and access to water helped it thrive as a hub for agriculture, fishing, and trade with other Mediterranean civilizations.

After the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians took control of Lixus, continuing its development as a key part of their trading network. In 146 BCE, after the fall of Carthage, it came under Roman control, becoming part of the province of Mauretania Tingitana.

Lixus is famously associated with Greek mythology, particularly the Labors of Hercules. According to legend, it was in Lixus that Hercules completed his eleventh labour by retrieving the Golden Apples of the Hesperides, which granted immortality. The Hesperides were said to live in a lush garden near Lixus, guarded by the dragon Ladon. This myth gave Lixus a sense of mystery and divine importance, drawing interest from ancient storytellers and travellers.

During the Roman era, Lixus reached its peak. It became a flourishing city with amphitheatres, temples, baths, and residential areas. The Romans built elaborate salt factories and fish-salting facilities to produce garum, a prized fermented fish sauce exported across the empire. Lixus was known for its wealth and cultural significance during this time, serving as a bridge between the Mediterranean world and Africa.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Lixus began to decline. The rise of other trade centres and political shifts contributed to its gradual abandonment. By the Islamic period, it was largely deserted, with its remaining population moving to nearby Larache.

Today, Lixus is an important archaeological site, showcasing ruins from the Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman periods. Visitors can explore its amphitheatre, temples, baths, and the remains of its industrial fish-salting complexes. The site’s hilltop location offers stunning views of the Loukkos River and the surrounding countryside.

Erg Chigaga is one of the largest and most impressive sand dune areas in the Sahara Desert, located in the southeastern part of Morocco near the Algerian border. It is known for its remote and pristine beauty.

The dunes can reach heights of up to 300 meters and extend for over 40 kilometres, creating a breathtaking landscape. Unlike the more popular Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, Erg Chigaga is more secluded and less developed for tourism, offering a more authentic desert experience.

Visitors can explore traditional Berber (Amazigh) culture, stay in desert camps, and enjoy activities like sandboarding, camel riding, and stargazing under the desert’s clear night sky.

How to get there?

Reaching Erg Chigaga typically involves a journey through the desert, often by 4×4 vehicles or camel treks, starting from towns like M’Hamid or Zagora.

From Marrakech

Take a bus (e.g., CTM or Supratours) or drive to Zagora. The journey by road takes about 7–9 hours, passing through the scenic High Atlas Mountains and the Draa Valley.

From Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is another popular starting point. From here, it’s a 4–5-hour drive to Zagora and then onward to M’Hamid.

Continue to M’Hamid

M’Hamid, a small desert outpost, is about 1.5 hours south of Zagora. Regular buses and taxis are available. Alternatively, many organized tours start from Ouarzazate or Marrakech and include transport to M’Hamid.

Off-Road to Erg Chigaga

From M’Hamid, the journey to Erg Chigaga involves traversing 60 kilometres of desert terrain. This requires a 4×4 vehicle or a camel trek.

4×4 jeeps (usually Toyota Land Cruiser) are driven by experienced drivers who navigate the challenging desert trails. The drive takes about 1.5 – 2 hours.

Camel Trek

slower but more traditional option is travelling by camel, which can take 2–3 days, depending on your starting point.

Where to stay?

Accommodation comes together in a package with transportation by 4X4 and food. Camp quality can vary and some offer more traditional Berber tents and some offer luxury settings among the dunes. There are also plenty of hotels and desert camps in M’Hamid if you need to spend the night before setting off to Erg Chigaga.

For adventurers travelling in their private vehicles, there will be no problems with self-sufficient camping.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May): temperatures are warm but comfortable, typically ranging from 20°C to 30°C during the day and cooler in the evenings. This is a beautiful time for desert landscapes, as the sand and skies are vivid, and occasional spring rains may create rare blooms in the desert. Spring is popular with tourists, especially in April, so booking accommodations or desert tours in advance is recommended.

Autumn (September to November): similar to spring, temperatures are mild, with daytime highs around 25°C to 30°C and cooler evenings. October is especially pleasant. Clear skies and beautiful sunsets make autumn a favourite for photographers and those looking to experience the desert at its most vibrant. Autumn also sees a fair number of tourists, but generally fewer than spring. It’s still wise to book ahead, especially in October.

Winter (December to February): days are mild, with temperatures between 15°C to 20°C, but nights can be cold, dropping close to freezing in the desert. The winter sky is often crisp and clear, perfect for stargazing. If you’re prepared for the cold nights, winter can be a magical time to experience the desert’s tranquillity. Winter is less crowded, though the holiday period around late December can be busy.

Summer (June to August): daytime temperatures soar, often reaching 40°C to 50°C, making outdoor activities challenging. Most tours run early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat, and many desert camps close or operate with limited services. Fewer tourists visit in summer due to the heat, making it an option for those who want to avoid crowds, but only if you’re comfortable with intense temperatures.

Overnight trip

I organized my Erg Chigaga trip at short notice, one day before arrival to M’Hamid. After contacting several camps and tour providers, the best offer was given by Hamza Laghfiri. The prices aren’t very encouraging for a solo traveller, so it’s always better to travel in a group and share the cost of jeep transportation. Erg Chigaga isn’t that close to M’Hamid, so your driver will stay there overnight as well. Taking into consideration that the food and accommodation are included, the price seems to be justified.

After negotiations, I agreed to pay 120 EUR for the complete tour. It was the best price I could get as other operators wanted from 150 EUR to even 220 EUR.

Here are the Hamza’s contact details:

hamza.laghfiri@gmail.com

+00 212 (0) 676 380 671 / + 00 212 (0) 656 950 249

The trip to Erg Chegaga was supposed to start at 2 PM so I still had quite a lot of time to kill in the morning. After checking out from my accommodation in M’Hamid, I had a short walk around the town and I bought a Berber-style head scarf. However, it didn’t prove to be very practical while walking on the dunes as I was sweating like a pig because of that synthetic material.

As soon as I texted Hamza that I was ready, he appeared in front of the meeting spot literally in 30 seconds. I guess he really didn’t want me to get in contact with any other drivers hanging out on the streets as potentially he could lose the customer. He introduced me to the driver who didn’t speak much English but seemed to be a nice and sensible guy. His driving style was very careful which I appreciated a lot, especially after my previous experiences with taxi drivers in Morocco. We could make a stop for the pictures any time I wanted and he also showed me a water well built next to a nomadic camp. The car was a Toyota Land Cruiser and the only negative was that the window on the passenger side couldn’t open.

The views and types of the desert were changing surprisingly fast. First, the landscape was more sandy with some occasional vegetation, then stony and wide open spaces and finally, we saw massive sand dunes. We passed by some folks travelling in pretty old cars, doing the route through Mauretania to Senegal, following the classic Dakar route. What a dream!

As we arrived at the camp, I was greeted with tea and snacks. At this time of the day, I was the only guest there but they said that 9-10 more people would come later on. The camp was much bigger than the one I stayed in Merzouga and there were even bathrooms with showers. I was very surprised that they brought water in huge containers for such a long distance.

I got a private room with two single beds and carpets on the floor. Very cosy and atmospheric! Actually, it wasn’t a tent but some other light construction.

After tea, I set off for something that was supposed to be a short walk to the dunes, and instead, it lasted until sunset. I climbed the highest dune, from where the views were simply amazing. I felt like the desert belongs to me. Absolutely no other people nearby. It was hot, and quiet and only flies were a pain in the ass. I spot a small camp at the bottom of the dune but it rather looked like the one belonging to nomads. Incredible that people live like that. I am always impressed by how different human lives and stories can be, depending on the culture, history and geographical location. Not a bit different… but absolutely different.

Then, I made a stupid decision to go down and head back to the camp. When I was on the way, I noticed plenty of other tourists who probably just arrived and were heading to the same place where I was a few minutes ago. It was pretty logical as the sunset time was coming and the top of the highest dune sounds like a good place to be, doesn’t it? Instead of continuing to the camp, I turned around and climbed that bloody dune again 🙂 The sunset was indeed magical!

It was getting dark really quickly so I was rushing back not to be surprised by darkness and not to get lost among the dunes. When I entered my room, I instantly drank one litre of water, as I didn’t take any (it was supposed to be a quick walk to the dunes.) Never underestimate the desert!

Just before the dinner, the staff working in the camp lit plenty of candles so the atmosphere was unique. The food was quite standard for Morocco – lentil soup and chicken tajine. Once dinner was over, we moved to the fireplace and it was time for singing and playing traditional instruments.

I slept well and started the day with the sunrise on the dune. Surprisingly, other guests were just sleeping and it seemed that I was the only one out there. The spectacle was good but not as impressive as the sunset the day before. Then I had breakfast and it was time to leave back to M’Hamid!

We took the same way and when we arrived in town, Hamza was already waiting. We shook hands and said goodbye. A very nice guy and the trip was organized exactly as expected, therefore I highly recommend his services!