Kigoma is a historic town and regional capital in western Tanzania, located on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika, the longest and second-deepest freshwater lake in the world. It serves as a major transportation hub, connecting remote western Tanzania to the rest of the country by road, rail, air, and boat.

Kigoma’s history is tied to its strategic position on Lake Tanganyika, which made it a vital point for trade and colonial expansion. In the 19th century, the region was a centre for Arab trade routes, including the ivory and slave trades, and attracted European explorers, missionaries, and colonizers.

One of the most famous events linked to Kigoma’s past is the meeting between explorers Henry Morton Stanley and Dr. David Livingstone in nearby Ujiji, a small town just south of Kigoma. In 1871, Stanley greeted Livingstone with the famous words, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”. A legendary moment in the history of African exploration.

During the German colonial era (the late 1800s to early 1900s), Kigoma was developed as a transport and administrative centre. The Central Line railway, which still connects Kigoma to Dar es Salaam, was built during this time, and a large port was constructed to support steamship transport on the lake.

Under British rule after World War I, Kigoma continued to grow, maintaining its role as a key port and rail terminal. Even today, you can find remnants of both German and British colonial influence in the town’s architecture and infrastructure.

Modern Kigoma is a laid-back lakeside town, known for its vibrant local markets, friendly atmosphere, and access to incredible natural and cultural sites like Gombe National Park and Mahale Mountains.

How to get there?

By Plane:

There are domestic flights available from major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Dodoma to Kigoma Airport. Flights are operated by local airlines such as Air Tanzania, and the flight usually takes around 2–3 hours, depending on the route.

By Train:

The train from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma offers a scenic journey across the country, taking about 2–3 days. It’s a slower, more immersive way to travel — ideal for those who enjoy overland adventures and watching Tanzania’s diverse landscapes.

By Bus or Car:

Travelling by bus or private vehicle from Dar es Salaam is possible, but the trip is very long (over 1,200 km) and can take 30+ hours, depending on road conditions. From Mwanza, it is about 8-10 hours by bus.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Kigoma is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. This is when the weather is most pleasant with sunny days, cooler temperatures, and minimal rain, making it ideal for exploring the town, taking boat trips on Lake Tanganyika, and trekking in nearby parks like Gombe or Mahale.

I wouldn’t demonize rain season too much though. I visited Gombe National Park at the end of February and the weather was just fine, with short rains only in the afternoons.

Where to stay?

I can fully recommend LEADERS LODGE. The room was clean and quite spacious. They can also prepare food and help you with arranging the trip to Gombe or any other place on your onward travel. Room prices vary so expect to pay about 30.000 – 50.000 TZS depending on the size of the room and if it comes with AC or not.

My experience

Livingstone Museum

I started my exploration of Kigoma by… visiting nearby Ujiji and the Livingstone Museum. It marks the place where Dr David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary and explorer, met Henry Morton Stanley, a journalist and explorer, in 1871 after years of Livingstone being out of contact with the outside world.

There is not much to see inside and limited displays tell the story of the two explorers, the significance of their meeting, and the broader context of exploration and colonialism in East Africa, although I had experience that it was written from the perspective of a white person.

One of the main highlights is a memorial monument marking the exact spot where Stanley is believed to have met Livingstone. The surrounding grounds are peaceful, with views of the lake, giving a sense of the journey and isolation that characterized exploration during that time.

The museum is located just a short distance from Lake Tanganyika and around 7 kilometres from the centre of Kigoma. You can easily get a tuk-tuk to get there. Upon arrival, you will get an introduction from the guide and then you will be free to walk around by yourself.

Train Station

The old train station in Kigoma is a historic building and one of the most significant colonial-era landmarks in western Tanzania. It serves as the western end of the Central Railway Line, which connects Kigoma with Dar es Salaam across the entire country.

Built during the German colonial period, before World War I, the station reflects a unique architectural style influenced by European design, particularly featuring arched entryways and a columned façade that resemble elements of North Italian architecture. Its location on the shores of Lake Tanganyika gave it strategic importance as a gateway for transporting goods and passengers between inland Tanzania and the coastal regions.

Kigoma Hilltop Hotel

Great location with an expansive view of the lake, and a private beach where you can spend a few hours. They charge for the entrance to the terrace but they have decent food options, so you can just eat something and then enjoy the view for free.

Beaches

Kigoma is located on the shores of Lake Tanganyika but sometimes it’s not that easy to get to the water. The best places to admire the view and have a sunset drink are Katabe Beach, Paradise Beach or Kidyama Beach.

Out of Town

Gombe National Park

Gombe National Park is a small but world-famous national park in western Tanzania, best known for its chimpanzees and the groundbreaking research of Dr. Jane Goodall. It’s located along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, and offers a rare chance to see wild chimpanzees up close in their natural forest habitat. It was established in 1968 and has about 52 square kilometres. In addition to chimps, the park is home to olive baboons, red colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, and over 200 species of birds. Dense forests, waterfalls, and stunning views of Lake Tanganyika add to the park’s beauty.

Read more about my visit to the park in a separate post HERE.

Mahale Mountains National Park

One of Tanzania’s most remote and breathtaking protected areas, located along the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika in the far west of the country. It’s best known for its wild chimpanzee population, crystal-clear waters, densely forested mountains, and the feeling of complete isolation.

Visiting Mahale is an incredible experience, especially for those wanting to see chimpanzees in the wild, but it’s not a budget destination. The costs add up quickly due to its remoteness, lack of road access, and reliance on boats or small aircraft.

Gombe National Park is a small but world-famous national park in western Tanzania, best known for its chimpanzees and the groundbreaking research of Dr. Jane Goodall. It’s located along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, and offers a rare chance to see wild chimpanzees up close in their natural forest habitat. It was established in 1968 and has about 52 square kilometres. In addition to chimps, the park is home to olive baboons, red colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, and over 200 species of birds. Dense forests, waterfalls, and stunning views of Lake Tanganyika add to the park’s beauty.

Chimpanzees

Chimpanzees in Tanzania are among the most fascinating creatures, especially those found in the Gombe and Mahale Mountains National Parks. They are our closest living relatives, sharing about 98.7% of human DNA, which is why their behaviour often feels so familiar. In the wild, they show remarkable intelligence, using tools like sticks to extract termites, leaves to soak up drinking water, and stones to crack nuts. Their social lives are equally complex; they live in flexible communities where group members come and go, form alliances, and even resolve conflicts through gestures like hugs or touches. In some areas, they’ve even been seen hunting smaller monkeys in coordinated group efforts, displaying strategy and cooperation rarely seen in other animals.

Chimpanzee mothers are especially caring, with young ones staying close for several years, learning essential survival and social skills. These primates also show signs of deep emotion — they’ve been observed mourning the loss of group members, staying by their side quietly and gently. Each chimpanzee is unique, with its personality and voice. They communicate using a variety of vocal sounds, facial expressions, and gestures, creating a rich and meaningful form of social interaction.

Despite their brilliance and charm, chimpanzees face serious threats — including habitat destruction, illegal hunting, and diseases passed from humans. Conservation efforts in Tanzania continue to play a vital role in ensuring these intelligent animals can survive and thrive in the wild. Seeing them in their natural forest homes is not only an unforgettable experience but a powerful reminder of our connection to the natural world.

Research of Dr. Jane Goodall

Dr. Jane Goodall is one of the most influential primatologists in history, and her research completely transformed how we understand chimpanzees — and even ourselves. She began her work in 1960 at Gombe Stream in Tanzania, where she lived among wild chimpanzees, observing them closely in their natural habitat. What set her apart was her unconventional approach: she gave names to the chimpanzees rather than assigning them numbers (which was against the norm at the time), and she spent long periods quietly watching and recording their behaviour.

One of her most groundbreaking discoveries was that chimpanzees use tools — something that, until then, had been considered a uniquely human trait. She saw them modifying twigs to fish termites out of holes, proving they could solve problems and plan. Her work also revealed that chimpanzees are emotionally complex, with social structures, strong family bonds, and even behaviours like affection, jealousy, playfulness, and grief.

Over time, she also uncovered a darker side to chimpanzee life — including territorial aggression and violence, even within their groups. These insights challenged long-held beliefs about both chimpanzee nature and human uniqueness. Dr Goodall’s research showed that many behaviours once thought to define humans actually existed in other primates too.

Beyond the science, her legacy is also about conservation and activism. As the threats to chimpanzees grew — from deforestation to poaching — she shifted her focus to protecting them and their environments. She founded the Jane Goodall Institute, which supports research and leads global conservation efforts and education programs, particularly involving youth through her Roots & Shoots initiative.

How to get there?

Getting to Gombe National Park is an adventurous journey. Located on the remote eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, Gombe is only accessible by boat, but the trip is worth it.

Step 1: Travel to Kigoma

Kigoma is the nearest town and the main entry point for travellers heading to Gombe.

By Plane: There are domestic flights available from major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Dodoma to Kigoma Airport. Flights are operated by local airlines such as Air Tanzania, and the flight usually takes around 2–3 hours, depending on the route.

By Train: The train from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma offers a scenic journey across the country, taking about 2–3 days. It’s a slower, more immersive way to travel — ideal for those who enjoy overland adventures and watching Tanzania’s diverse landscapes.

By Bus or Car: Traveling by bus or private vehicle from Dar es Salaam is possible, but the trip is very long (over 1,200 km) and can take 30+ hours, depending on road conditions. From Mwanza, it is about 8-10 hours by bus.

Step 2: Boat from Kigoma to Gombe

Since there are no roads into Gombe, the only way in is by boat from Kigoma, across Lake Tanganyika.

Private Boat: A motorboat can be hired from Kigoma, usually taking 1–2 hours, depending on the boat and lake conditions. This is the fastest and most flexible option, especially if you’re travelling with a group or want to stick to your schedule. Needless to say, it isn’t cheap and you should count on about 200 USD for the return trip.

The receptionist from Leaders Lodge in Kigoma, where I was staying, got me in touch with Hussein, who works as a ranger but also has his motorboat. There was also one more traveller willing to join the trip and share costs. Hussein arrived at the lodge and after hard negotiations, we agreed on the price of a 2-day 1-night trip to Gombe, including transport, entrance fee, accommodation, food and a guide.

Hussein: +255 686 109 100, mtawigayatourskigoma@gmail.com

Public Boat: A more affordable option is the local wooden boat, often called a lake taxi, which departs from Kibirizi Beach near Kigoma town. It leaves around midday most days except Sundays. The ride takes 3 to 4 hours, as it makes stops in villages along the shoreline. You’ll return to Kigoma early in the morning — the boat passes by Gombe around 7:00–8:00 AM.

After getting to Gombe, you need to pay an entrance fee which gives you the right to be in the park for 24 hours. Taking into consideration the schedule of public boats, it’s really difficult to make the most of this time.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Gombe National Park is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. Trails are easier to hike as the forest paths are drier and less slippery. Chimpanzees are more active and easier to find, as they stay closer to the lower slopes in search of food. There’s less rain, so your chances of clear weather and uninterrupted tracking are much higher. Lake Tanganyika is calmer, making boat travel to and from the park smoother and safer.

The Rainy season runs from November to May. The forest becomes lush and green, which is beautiful but trails can get muddy and challenging. Chimpanzees tend to roam deeper into the forest, making them harder to track. There’s a higher chance of boat travel delays due to rough lake conditions.

I wouldn’t demonize rain season too much though. I visited Gombe National Park at the end of February and the weather was just fine, with short rains only in the afternoons.

Where to stay?

In Kigoma, which will certainly be the starting and ending point of your travel to Gombe National Park, I can fully recommend LEADERS LODGE. The room was clean and quite spacious. They can also prepare food and help you with arranging the trip to Gombe or any other place on your onward travel. Room prices vary so expect to pay about 30.000 – 50.000 TZS depending on the size of the room and if it comes with AC or not.

Inside the national park, you can choose between a standard room in a bigger building or a luxury tent.

How much does it cost?

Park Entrance Fees:

Non-East African Citizens:

Adults (16 years and above): 100 USD per day

Children (5 to 15 years): 20 USD per day

Tanzanian Residents and Expatriates:

Adults: 50 USD per day

Children: 10 USD per day

East African Citizens:

Adults: 10,000 TZS per day

Children: 2,000 TZS per day

Accommodation Costs:

Budget Options: Basic rooms are available starting around 40,000 TZS per night.

Transportation Expenses:

Boat Transfers to Gombe: From Kigoma, boat transport is necessary:

Public Boats: More affordable but less frequent and slower. Hard to make the best out of your 24-hour stay in the national park due to the oat’s schedule.

Private Speedboats: Faster and more convenient, with costs varying based on negotiation and group size but should be anywhere between 100 – 200 USD.

Additional Costs:

Guided Chimpanzee Trekking: Required and may incur additional fees.

Meals: Depending on accommodation, meals might be included or charged separately.

Sample Budget for a 24-hours Visit and 2 Chimpanzee Trekkings:

Park Fees: 100 USD

Accommodation: 40 USD (budget option)

Boat Transfer: 100-150 USD (estimate for private boat split among the group)

Guiding Fees and Meals: 60-80 USD (estimate)

My experience

Day 1

We agreed with Hussein that he would pick us up from accommodation at 9 AM and he was slightly late but nothing too dramatic, especially when it comes to Tanzanian standards. He dropped us at the lakeside where we waited for the boat. It was an average-sized motorboat and the ride was very comfortable. Lots of green hills, small villages, children walking to school and all that. Very scenic and real local life going on!

Once we arrived, we were shown to our rooms. Bed with mosquito net plus a toilet with a cold water bucket shower. Perfectly enough for one night. Then, as the lunch was not ready, we decided to jump into the boat again and go looking for chimpanzees. After a short ride, we were dropped at the beach and together with the ranger we walked into the forest. Soon, we met more rangers whose responsibility was tracking chimpanzees and we were given face masks.

First, we heard them. Then, we spotted them hanging out in the trees. A few minutes later another big group appeared and they were heading to the stream to drink water. It was awesome to watch them from that close and they were totally not bothered by human presence. We had plenty of time to take pictures and watch their behaviour. Most importantly, there were no other tourists around. Just me, my Canadian travel buddy and the guide.

After about an hour, we took a boat again and went back to the National Park HQ for lunch. The staff said that apparently they were told that we didn’t want to have lunch at all so they didn’t prepare any. The organization of the place isn’t on the highest level but after two months in Tanzania, I wasn’t too surprised or pissed. I just told them to give us rice with beans and some bananas. That was exactly what we got.

When our stomachs got full, we went to see the Kakombe Waterfall. The stream in the Kakombe Valley feeds the waterfall in a 20-meter drop down the cliff. A pretty sight and on the way there we were able to see the research building where Jane Goodall used to work. Currently, there are some information boards.

Our guide started heading back but I asked him if we could complete the loop and hike up to the viewpoint. He said we needed to be back at the HQ by 5 PM and we didn’t have enough time but after some encouragement, he agreed and took us there. It was supposed to be about 1-hour hike up but we made it in less than 30 minutes, even though it was steep. Don’t take time predictions in Tanzania too seriously! The views were very nice, with impressively green hills and huge Tanganyika Lake.

Then we descended back to HQ finishing the loop hike. We met with a local researcher who explained to us a bit more about her work. Fascinating! It was great to end the day with a refreshing swim in the lake, followed by a short walk along the lakeside. The water in Tanganyika Lake looked very clean, especially compared to Lake Victoria! Baboons usually hang out around the HQ so keep an eye on them.

Day 2

In the morning we hopped on the boat and did another session of chimpanzee tracking. The place was the same as the day before but there were much more other tourists who arrived for one day trip. We saw a big group chilling right on the hiking path and then we followed them deeper into the forest once they started moving. Unfortunately, humans aren’t as smart as chimpanzees and they started making noises, approaching too close and as a result chimpanzees got annoyed.

One of them passed by really close to me and the guide told me to stay still. Great experience! Then, we climbed the hill to see some more of them sitting high in the tree.

We spent over an hour in the forest and it was time to leave. We came back to the headquarters to pack our things and soon we were on the boat back to Kigoma. Even though it was an expensive trip, I was so happy that I decided to do it. Money will come back, memories will last forever!

Bukoba is a town in northwestern Tanzania, located on the western shore of Lake Victoria, close to the borders of Uganda and Rwanda. It is the capital of the Kagera Region, and a significant cultural, economic, and transportation hub in that part of the country.

It has long been home to the Haya people, one of Tanzania’s major ethnic groups. The Haya have a rich history and were known for their iron smelting technology — some of the oldest and most advanced in Sub-Saharan Africa. Their society was organized under several kingdoms, with Karagwe being the most prominent in the area. These kingdoms were governed by traditional kings called “Bakama.”

During the Scramble for Africa, the Germans colonized what is now mainland Tanzania (then called German East Africa). Bukoba became a strategic administrative centre for the Germans due to its proximity to Lake Victoria. They built infrastructure like roads and introduced cash crops like coffee, which remains an essential economic activity in the region.

After Germany’s defeat in WWI, Britain took over Tanganyika under a League of Nations mandate. Bukoba continued to serve as an administrative and commercial centre during the British era, with further development of agriculture, especially coffee.

After Tanzania gained independence in 1961, Bukoba became part of the newly established Kagera Region. The town played a crucial role in regional politics, especially during the 1978–1979 Uganda-Tanzania War when Tanzanian forces helped overthrow Idi Amin’s regime in Uganda. Kagera Region suffered during the war, especially due to cross-border conflicts, but Bukoba remained resilient.

Today, Bukoba is a quiet but growing town. It’s known for coffee production and trade, lakefront views and fishing and being a gateway for cross-border trade with Uganda and Rwanda.

How to get there?

By Air

From Dar Es Salaam: Several airlines like Air Tanzania and sometimes Precision Air operate flights between Dar es Salaam and Bukoba. Flight time is around 1.5 to 2 hours.

From Mwanza: Flights are rather occasional and the travel takes about 45 minutes.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam: It’s a very long journey, taking 20–24 hours or more, and usually requires changing buses in Mwanza or Kahama.

From Mwanza: You can drive or take a bus. Distance is around 450 km and it takes 10–12 hours by road, depending on conditions.

From Kampala: Bukoba is very close to the Uganda border. You can travel by bus or private car from Kampala to the Mutukula border, then continue south to Bukoba. Travel time is about 6–8 hours.

By Ferry

Probably the most popular and scenic way. MV Victoria and other vessels run between Mwanza and Bukoba. It’s a night ferry and usually takes overnight (about 8–10 hours). It offers cabins for sleeping.

The best time to visit

June to September (Cool & Dry Season): Pleasant weather with cooler temperatures and less humidity. Good for outdoor activities, sightseeing, and lake views. Minimal rainfall, so roads and ferries are more reliable.

December to February (Warm & Dry): Also a good time, though slightly hotter.Great for escaping cold weather if you’re coming from abroad. Local festivals and more social activity around Christmas/New Year.

Where to stay?

I can fully recommend JADORA HOTEL. I didn’t book in advance as the place is not available on booking platforms but I got the room without any issues when I showed up straight after arrival from the ferry terminal. The room was clean and they had a nice restaurant with tasty food. It’s very well located, within walking distance or a short motorbike ride to Lake Victoria. Expect to pay about 30.000 – 40.000 TZS for a double room.

My experience

I reached Bukoba by the ferry from Mwanza and it was much more comfortable than I thought. With a first-class ticket, I got a double cabin with a bunk bed. On the boat, there was also a restaurant, bar and even live music!

Around 6 AM I went out of the room to stand on a deck and observe the sunrise. The sky was cloudy but still, Lake Victoria looked magnificent and I could see that we were approaching our destination.

The day in Bukoba was easy and quite relaxing, as there aren’t too many places to see. First, I decided to walk from the hotel to the lakefront. I passed by Bukoba Cathedral, officially known as Mater Misericordiae Cathedral, which is the main Catholic church in town. The cathedral has a simple design, and it features stained glass windows, religious artwork, and a serene interior for prayer. Christianity in Kagera Region has a deep history, with missionaries arriving in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The cathedral has been a spiritual centre for generations of Haya people and other communities in Bukoba.

Unfortunately, the lakefront in Bukoba isn’t a very charming place. The beach is quite dirty and the landscape around much less appealing than in Mwanza. Not to mention the colour of the water! I saw some local boys having fun in the water but I didn’t dare to take a dip.

On the horizon, I could see Musira, a small, beautiful island located just off the shore of Bukoba town. The island is traditionally used by local fishermen and sometimes farmers for small-scale activities. It’s one of the closest and most easily accessible islands from the Bukoba mainland — only about 10 to 15 minutes by boat. Boat rides to and around the island are available but it costs 80 USD which is rather expensive if you travel solo. Contact Bukoba Cross Culture Travel and Tours (+255713568276) if you are interested.

Near the beach, you can spot The German Pillars which are historical remnants from the German colonial period. These pillars are believed to have been part of a German fort or administrative structure during German East Africa rule (1880s–1916).

The British Cemetery, on the other side of Jamhuri Road, is a war memorial site where British soldiers who died during the Battle of Bukoba (1916) in World War I are buried. The Battle of Bukoba (June 1916) was fought between British and German forces. British forces, mainly from British East Africa (Kenya & Uganda), launched an attack on Bukoba to weaken German control. The British won and briefly occupied Bukoba, but several soldiers lost their lives in the battle.

For the best lookout in town, visit the Kiroyera Teemba Heritage Site and climb to the top of the rock. The owner can also open a room with a small museum presenting old pictures and tools.

Out of town

Kyamunene Caves and Waterfalls

The caves are formed in limestone or volcanic rock, shaped over centuries by natural erosion. They consist of small chambers surrounded by dense vegetation and forested terrain. Some stories suggest they may have served as shelters during the German or British colonial era, especially for local fighters or people fleeing conflict.

There are two waterfalls, one very close to the entrance and another one within 15 minutes of a pleasant walk through the forest. There are wooden tables and seats, a swing and even a raft. Even though the waterfalls aren’t too impressive, taking into consideration the infrastructure, it’s a great place for a picnic!

To get there, you would need to organize a boda boda or a tuk-tuk. The ride will take about 15 minutes. The entrance fee is way too high but don’t be shy and negotiate it hard. In the end, they will agree so as not to lose the customer.

Ukerewe Island is the largest island in Lake Victoria and part of Tanzania’s Mwanza Region. Located about 50 km north of Mwanza city, it is accessible by ferry from the Mwanza port. The island is known for its rich history, cultural heritage, and natural beauty.

The island has been home to the Sukuma people for centuries. It also has a unique history of being a refuge for people with albinism, as some local rulers offered protection from persecution.

Ukerewe was part of German East Africa (1885–1916) before coming under British control (1916–1961) during colonial rule. The island’s chiefs (Batemi) played key roles in local governance, even under colonial administration.

How to get there?

By Boat

The most common way to reach Ukerewe Island is by ferry from Mwanza to Nansio (Ukerewe’s Main Town). There are two options:

Slow boat leaves from Nyehunge Port in Mwanza in the morning (around 9 AM). It takes about 3-4 hours to arrive at Nansio.

Speed boat leaves from Kamanga Ferry Terminal In Mwanza in the afternoon (around 3 PM). It takes about 1.5 hours to arrive at Nansio.

I highly recommend asking around Mwanza for up-to-date departure times or contacting the guide in Ukerewe (Haruni Paschal: +255656974800) and he will help you to figure out the details.

By Road

Drive or take a bus from Mwanza to Bunda and then change to another bus heading towards Masahunga Ferry Port.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Ukerewe Island depends on the weather and lake conditions. Generally, the ideal time is during the dry season, when travel is easier, and the island’s scenery is at its best.

Best Months:

June – October (Dry Season)

Pleasant weather with little rainfall. Easier ferry travel due to calmer waters. Best for outdoor activities like cycling, nature walks, and sightseeing.

January – February (Short Dry Spell)

Warmer temperatures but still good for travel. Cultural events and local festivals often take place.

When to Avoid:

March-May (Long Rainy Season)

Heavy rains can cause rough lake conditions and potential ferry delays. Some dirt roads on the island may become difficult to navigate.

November – December (Short Rains)

Some rain showers, but still possible to visit. The island is lush and green, but lake conditions can be unpredictable.

Where to stay?

My guide organized two nights for me at Monarch Beach Hotel, and it was a good choice. Clean, spacious room with mosquito net, only a few steps away from the beach at Lake Victoria.

Should you get a guide?

The short answer is yes. It is one of these places in Tanzania where having a guide will give you significantly better insight into the life of the local community. I spent two days with Haruni and he was a great guy, very communicative and knowledgeable. If I had gone alone, I certainly would not have been able to reach the sights that we did together, especially since they aren’t even marked on Google Maps.

I was offered different tour variants:

Village Cycling Adventure (12-14 km)

Caves Cycling Adventure (16-17 km)

Chief House Cycling Adventure (16 km)

Rubya Forest Cycling Adventure (35 km)

Bukondo Beach and Fishers Camp Visit (30-31 km)

Here are the contact details for my guide:

Haruni Paschal, +255656974800

unforgettableukerewetourism@gmail.com or harunipaschal@gmail.com

website: https://unforgettableukerewetourism.blogspot.com

My experience

Day 1

I left my big backpack at the hotel in Mwanza and took a tuk-tuk to Nyehunge Port. People were already queuing so I bought a ticket and joined the crowd. I got quite a comfortable seat in the first class on the top level but of course, I spent some time standing on the deck, observing the landscape.

When I arrived at Ukerewe, my guide was waiting for me at the port. He took me to my room at Monarch Beach Hotel where I could leave some of my things and then we went to eat lunch in a local restaurant. Don’t forget to eat some fish while visiting Lake Victoria!

With full stomachs, we were ready to pick up the bicycles and set off for a ride. We followed a wide dirt road and made our first stop at the beach. There was also a small shop where we could buy cold drinks. Then, we continued towards the German Fortress Ruins. We parked the bikes and climbed up to the viewpoint with the Catholic cross on top of the rock.

These ruins are believed to be part of an old German administrative post or military station built during the late 19th or early 20th century. The Catholic cross at the ruins suggests that missionaries or early Christian settlers may have used or repurposed the site after German rule.

The views from the top were wonderful and I was surprised how green the island is! We still had places to explore though, so after a short rest, we walked down and continued cycling to another beach. It was much more local one, with cows sunbathing and chilling on a sand on one side and villagers swimming naked and washing their clothes on the other side 🙂

Soon, we started heading to the last stop of the day which was another viewpoint. We were following the main road further until we saw a narrow path leading off to the right. We put the bikes in a safe place and continued on foot to the top of the hill. The views were even better than before and I was sure that the visit to Ukerewe was a good choice!

We took the same way back to Nansio, passing through many small villages with plenty of kids screaming “Mzungu! Mzungu!” as soon as they saw me. In Swahili, “mzungu” means “white person” or “foreigner”.

Day 2

We planned a much longer bike ride than the day before and the main objective was a visit to Bwiru Island and fishermen village there. However, I also wanted to see the Chief House, which is located near Bukindo Village. Two very distant locations and hard to visit in one day if travelling on a bicycle. Luckily, Haruni was very flexible and he came up with a solution! After coming back from Bwiru Island, we were supposed to arrange two motorbikes to take us together with bicycles to Bukindo and then we would cycle back to Nansio after sightseeing the Chief House. Sounded like an adventure so I immediately agreed to the plan!

The weather was again really hot and sunny. We passed the turn off to the viewpoint which was our last stop the day before and then continued further until we reached a place of Haruni’s friend where we left the bikes and ordered lunch. Then, we walked towards the departure point of the boat.

it was rocking a lot but the boat was big and stable. There were quite a lot of people crossing to the other side. When we landed on the shore, two other local guys joined us for exploration. I guess those were locals who just had to be given some money by Haruni because in Tanzania it’s never that you bring a white tourists to another place and can just walk around without paying contribution 🙂

We walked to the fishermen village which was quite interesting and provided lots of good photo opportunities. The places for drying fish were empty but still, it was a fascinating place to see. People live in improvised houses, similar to those that I have already seen before at Lake Eyasi.

As we still had some time left, we walked around the village to see the local market and school. Of course, we got a lot of attention from the kids but in a friendly way. Soon, we had to rush back to the boat as it was about to leave. Upon arrival on the other side, we had our lunch (fish in a sauce and rice).

Then, two boda boda drivers arrived and we packed bicycles on one motorbike and another one picked me and Haruni. It was about 30-45 minutes ride to the Chief House near Bukindo. There, a local man gave us a short explanation about the history of the place and about the local chief who used to live in this area. Very interesting place and certainly worth a visit, although inside the building there is not much to see, besides drums. At the end of sightseeing, you are expected to give a tip so don’t forget to take some cash with you.

In the end, we cycled back to the Nansio, passing by lots of cheerful pupils walking back to their homes from school. So friendly! We returned the bikes and I went back to the room to take a shower and rest. There was a local event going on in the restaurant opposite the hotel because of the Valentine’s Day, so me and Haruni agreed to meet there later on for a beer.

It was a great way to say goodbye to Ukerewe Island! I was coming here with zero expectations but spent twice as much time as I planned and it was certainly one of the most memorable and authentic Tanzanian experience.

Mwanza is the second-largest city in Tanzania after Dar es Salaam and serves as an important economic and transportation hub. The city is known for its scenic landscape, characterized by rolling hills, large rock formations, and its proximity to Africa’s largest lake. Mwanza is often referred to as “Rock City” because of the distinctive granite boulders that are scattered throughout the area.

The city’s history is deeply connected to trade, colonial influences, and the development of Tanzania as a whole. The region was historically inhabited by the Sukuma people, Tanzania’s largest ethnic group, who were primarily engaged in agriculture, fishing, and cattle herding. Due to its strategic position on Lake Victoria, Mwanza became an important centre for trade, linking inland Tanzania to the rest of East Africa.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the area fell under German colonial rule as part of German East Africa. The Germans developed Mwanza as an administrative and commercial hub, introducing infrastructure such as roads and railways to facilitate trade and resource extraction. Following Germany’s defeat in World War I, the British took control of the territory, governing it as part of the British mandate of Tanganyika. Under British rule, Mwanza continued to grow as a key centre for cotton production, fishing, and transportation.

After Tanzania gained independence in 1961, Mwanza expanded rapidly. The city became a major industrial and commercial hub, benefiting from its access to Lake Victoria and connections to Uganda, Kenya, and other regions of Tanzania. In recent decades, Mwanza has seen significant urbanization and economic growth, driven by industries such as mining, fishing, agriculture, and trade. It is also a gateway to tourist destinations such as the Serengeti National Park and Rubondo Island National Park.

How to get there?

By Air

The easiest way to reach Mwanza is by flying into Mwanza Airport (MWZ).

Flights from Dar es Salaam: Several airlines operate daily flights, taking about 1.5 hours.

Flights from Kilimanjaro/Arusha: Flights from these northern cities take about 1–2 hours.

International Flights: While Mwanza doesn’t have many direct international flights, travellers from outside Tanzania can connect through Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro, or Nairobi.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam: About 16–18 hours by bus or private car (~1,100 km).

From Arusha: Around 10–12 hours (~700 km).

From Dodoma: Roughly 8–10 hours (~600 km).

From Kampala (Uganda): Approximately 7–9 hours (~400 km).

Buses are available but can be long and tiring. Hiring a private car is more comfortable, especially if travelling in a group.

By Train

Mwanza is connected to Dodoma and Dar es Salaam via the Tanzania Railways Corporation (TRC) network. The train from Dar es Salaam takes about 40 hours and runs a few times per week. It’s a cheaper option, but delays are common, and the journey is long.

By Ferry

Mwanza serves as a major port on Lake Victoria, with ferries connecting to Bukoba and other lakeside towns. Ferries from Bukoba take about 8–10 hours overnight.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Mwanza is during the dry seasons, from June to October and from January to February. During these months, the weather is generally pleasant, with minimal rainfall and moderate temperatures, making it ideal for outdoor activities, sightseeing, and exploring Lake Victoria.

The rainy seasons (March to May and November to December) bring heavy downpours, making roads muddy and some outdoor activities less enjoyable. However, if you don’t mind the occasional rain, these months offer lush green landscapes and fewer tourists.

Where to stay?

I recommend the J.A. Hotel on Banda Street. It’s very well located, within walking distance to Lake Victoria. The hotel isn’t available on booking.com but you can simply come over and ask for availability. Expect to pay about 30.000 – 40.000 TZS for an air-conditioned double room.

Places worth seeing in Mwanza

Bismarck Rock

The symbol of the town is located at the shore of Lake Victoria. It is a natural rock formation consisting of a large, precariously balanced boulder resting on top of other rocks in the lake, making it a unique and iconic landmark. The rock is named after Otto von Bismarck, the former German chancellor, as Mwanza was once part of German East Africa.

Boat Trip

As you stroll along the lake, you will be offered different kinds of boat tours, and you should certainly join one of them. After intensive negotiations, I found myself in a boat with 4 other tourists from Germany, and we set off for about a 3-hour tour including a fish market, Aloe Vera Island, and a sunset stop. The views were really stunning and it was the best activity that I experienced during my visit to Mwanza.

Here is the phone number of our guide in case you want to reach him on WhatsApp: +255 744 212 292.

The German Gallow Tree

A historical site linked to the colonial era, particularly during German and British rule in Tanzania (formerly Tanganyika). It is believed to have been used for public executions of individuals, including local resistance fighters and criminals, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Gold Crest Hotel

They have a nice rooftop restaurant and a bar. Perfect spot to end the day and see the sunset.

Sanatan Mandir & BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir

Mwanza is home to several Hindu temples, reflecting the presence of a significant Indian community, particularly those of Gujarati, Punjabi, and South Indian descent. These temples serve as places of worship, cultural gatherings, and religious celebrations for Hindus in the region.

Sanatan Mandir is one of the main Hindu temples in Mwanza, dedicated to various Hindu deities and serving the local Hindu community. Just the opposite is BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir, a temple associated with the Swaminarayan sect.

Capri Point Lookout

It’s a good observation spot from where one gets a view of the lake and surrounding hills but unfortunately, there are a lot of construction sites around.

Mwaloni Market

It’s a fish market and processing site. It’s a lively and fascinating place to see but be prepared for intensive odour.

Out of the city centre

Pascha Beach and MV Bukoba Monument

If you want to take a short trip out of the city centre, get a tuk-tuk to Pasha Beach. The entrance fee of 5.000 TZS includes a soft drink or a beer. Unfortunately, at the time of my visit (February 2025) they were renovating the pathway leading to the lake shore.

Nearby are the stairs leading to the MV Bukoba Monument dedicated to the victims of the MV Bukoba ferry disaster that occurred on May 21, 1996, in Lake Victoria. The passenger ferry travelling from Bukoba to Mwanza tragically sank about 30 kilometres from Mwanza, leading to the deaths of over 800 people, making it one of the deadliest maritime disasters in East African history.

Beach at Tunza Resort

A bit further north, on the other side of the bay is Tunza Resort, another nice place where you can have a drink or snack at the lakeside.

Bujora Cultural Centre and Sukuma Museum

The museum was established to preserve and showcase the rich culture, history, and traditions of the Sukuma people. Bujora is also known for its Catholic mission, which played a role in documenting and integrating Sukuma traditions with Christianity.

The Sukuma are the largest ethnic group in Tanzania, with an estimated population of over 10 million. They mainly live in the Mwanza, Shinyanga, and Simiyu regions, in the northern part of the country near Lake Victoria. The Sukuma people are traditionally farmers and cattle herders, growing crops like maize, cotton, and cassava.

Language: The Sukuma speak Kisukuma, a Bantu language, alongside Swahili.

Dancing: Famous for their traditional dance competitions, especially the ones involving snake charmers and acrobatics.

Spiritual Beliefs: Historically, they believed in ancestral spirits and traditional medicine, although many today practice Christianity or Islam.

Governance: They traditionally had chiefs (Ntemi system), but this structure declined after colonial rule.

To get there, you can jump into dala dala at Central Roundabout in Mwanza. Find the one heading towards Kisessa. After arrival, you can continue for another few minutes on boda boda. The entrance fee (15.000 TZS) includes a guide but as always in Tanzania, a tip is expected.

Saanane National Park

The park is home to various animals, including impalas, rock hyraxes, vervet monkeys, crocodiles, and monitor lizards. Although there are no large predators, visitors can see a variety of bird species. It was originally established as a game reserve in 1964 and later upgraded to a national park in 2013. Located just 2 km from Mwanza city, it is easily accessible by boat.

In my opinion, the walk around the island was rather boring and the ranger was walking really fast, just like she wanted to get rid of the tour as quickly as possible. We didn’t see many animals, just some impalas, wildebeest and monkeys. It was sad to see that they kept a lion in the cage. Well, we couldn’t actually see it but the guide told us that it must be resting in a hidden corner.

At the end, we climbed up to the observation point which was called “Jumping Rock”. The views were nice but not really breathtaking. If you have been to other national parks in Tanzania, this one will certainly disappoint you, even though it’s a bit cheaper.

Entrance to the national park itself costs 76.650 TZS per person. On top of that, you need to add a boat fee. You may go to the national park headquarters near the Tilapia Hotel or negotiate the price with the guys hanging out near the Bismarck Rock. I was lucky enough to join a group of four other people to share the costs and we went with the same guy that took us for a sunset boat trip the day before. Here is his phone number in case you want to reach him on WhatsApp: +255 744 212 292. Expect to pay about 35 USD for the boat but the price is lower if there are more passengers.

Long before European arrival, the Arusha people, a branch of the larger Maasai ethnic group, inhabited the region. They were primarily farmers and cattle herders, taking advantage of the area’s fertile volcanic soil. The nearby Maasai, known for their warrior traditions, also played a key role in the region, sometimes clashing with other groups over land and resources.

The Germans arrived in the late 19th century and established control over the area as part of German East Africa. They built administrative offices and encouraged coffee farming, laying the foundation for Arusha’s future as an agricultural hub.

British forces took over from the Germans during World War I, incorporating Arusha into British Tanganyika. The British continued coffee and sisal production, further developing Arusha’s infrastructure.

In the 1950s, Arusha became a major trade and administration centre, attracting people from different ethnic backgrounds, including Chagga, Meru, and Indian traders.

In 1961, Tanzania gained independence, and Arusha became a key political and economic centre. In 1967, the city gained international recognition when Julius Nyerere announced the Arusha Declaration, which established Ujamaa (African socialism) as Tanzania’s national policy. This emphasized self-reliance, collective farming, and nationalized industries.

Today, Arusha is a thriving city known for being the gateway to safari destinations like Serengeti, Ngorongoro, and Mount Kilimanjaro as well as hosting the East African Community (EAC) headquarters and formerly the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda (ICTR).

How to get there?

By Air

The closest airport is Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), located about 50 km (1 hour) from Arusha. It serves international and domestic flights.

Alternatively, you can fly into Arusha Airport (ARK), which mainly handles domestic flights from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, and Serengeti.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam (620 km, 10-12 hours): Luxury buses like Kilimanjaro Express, Dar Express, and Shabiby cost $25-$40.

From Moshi (80 km, 1.5 hours) – Shared taxis, buses, or private cars are available.

From Nairobi, Kenya (270 km, 5-6 hours): Daily shuttles. The journey includes a border crossing at Namanga.

By Train

Tanzania Railways operates a slow but scenic train from Dar es Salaam to Moshi, with onward connections to Arusha. It’s an adventure but not the fastest option.

The best time to visit

June to October (Dry Season)

Clear skies, little to no rain, and cool temperatures. Ideal for safari in nearby parks (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire). Great for hiking and outdoor activities (Mount Meru, Arusha National Park). During peak tourist seasons, it’s better to book accommodation in advance.

January to mid-March (Short Dry Season)

Warm weather and green landscapes after the short rains. Perfect for photography and cultural experiences. Good for Kilimanjaro or Mount Meru trekking.

Months to avoid:

Mid-March to May (Long Rainy Season)

Heavy rains can make safari roads muddy and hiking trails slippery. Fewer tourists, so you might find discounted rates.

November to early December (Short Rains)

The weather is less predictable, but the parks are lush and beautiful. A decent option if you want fewer crowds.

Where to stay?

I recommend the Bright Star Hotel. It’s in a very quiet area with the city centre easily accessible by boda boda or tuk ruk. The staff is incredibly friendly, and they serve a very nice breakfast, which is included in the price. The internet isn’t the fastest, but hey, it works! Only the road leading to the hotel could be improved!

Places worth seeing in Arusha

I wanted to get around the town with a local guide to hear the commentary and I found an excellent offer with a lot of positive reviews on Get Your Guide. I decided to give it a try and I was met the next day by the guide: Daudi. He was a young and nice guy, repeating plenty of times that I am most welcome in Tanzania.

We checked from the outside buildings such as: Arusha International Conference Centre, Mount Meru Regional Referral Hospital and Arusha City District Office before stepping inside National Natural History Museum in the old German Boma. The exposition was quite interesting, about flora and fauna in the region and the evolution of human beings.

Then. we went to the Maasai Market which was nothing more than the place with souvenirs. Everyone was inviting me to his or her shop “just to have a look”. Unfortunately, I still had two months of travelling in Tanzania ahead of me and my luggage was very limited so I didn’t buy anything.

Next sight on our tour was the Clock Tower. It is located at the heart of Arusha, at a major intersection that connects the city’s key roads. It is often said to be the “midpoint” between Cairo, Egypt, and Cape Town, South Africa, though this is more symbolic than geographically precise.

Near the roundabout with Clock Tower, there is a hotel called Four Points by Sheraton Arusha. Of course, it was out of my budget to stay there, but Daudi knew the staff so we were allowed to go inside and see the historical building in which it was located as well as the gallery of old photographies.

Afterwards, we came inside a jewellery shop selling products made with Tanzanite and there was also a small museum where the staff provided me with a tour. Tanzanite is a rare and valuable blue-violet gemstone found only in Tanzania, specifically in the Mererani Hills near Arusha. It is a variety of the mineral zoisite and was discovered in 1967. Tanzanite’s deep blue and violet hues are unique and often compared to sapphires, but it has a different brilliance and pleochroic effect (changing colors when viewed from different angles). It is commonly used in rings, necklaces, and earrings, often set in white gold or platinum.

We bought grilled corn from the street vendor and continued to the Central Market, full of fresh products, spices, and plenty of other stuff. Super interesting place, full of life and excellent for photography although locals weren’t too happy to see my camera, so it’s always better to ask for permission, before photographing people.

After that we stopped to drink some coffee with milk, honey and spices. Damn, it was delicious! It was definitely one of those experiences that probably I would never have tried without a guide.

Then, we jumped into the car and drove to the Cultural Heritage Center. It is a mix of an art gallery, museum, and shopping center, offering visitors a chance to explore traditional and contemporary African art, including paintings, sculptures, jewelry, and artifacts. The building has an interesting architecture, designed to resemble the Uhuru Peak of Kilimanjaro.

It was the last point of our tour and then I was dropped near the Clock Tower. Overall, very interesting tour and well worth the price. I was so glad that I did it! As mentioned before, the trip can be found on Get Your Guide or you can contact Daudi on his WhatsApp directly: +255 621 146 836.

Later, I walked by myself to Arusha Declaration Museum to learn about the key policy document in Tanzania’s socialist history, announced by President Julius Nyerere on February 5, 1967. It outlined the country’s vision for Ujamaa (African socialism) and self-reliance. Even though there was a sign with entrance fees, I didn’t see anyone in the ticket office so I just went inside and left within 15 minutes. Glad that I did so because it was definitely not worth paying 10 USD!

Napuru Waterfalls

It is a lush, tropical forest just a few kilometres from Moshi, offering a peaceful escape into nature. Home to colobus monkeys, blue monkeys, dik-diks, and a variety of bird species. The forest can be explored on guided nature walks or bike tours.

Places worth seeing outside of Arusha

Mount Meru & Arusha National Park

Mount Meru, standing at 4,566 meters, is the second-highest peak in Tanzania and is located within Arusha National Park. This dormant volcano provides a challenging trekking experience through diverse landscapes, including savannah, dense forests, and alpine zones. The ascent usually takes three to four days, with climbers staying in mountain huts like Miriakamba and Saddle huts. On clear days, the summit offers breathtaking views of Mount Kilimanjaro. The climb isn’t cheap though, and you should budget around 1.000 USD.

Arusha National Park features varied ecosystems, from lush rainforests to open savannahs, and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including giraffes, zebras, buffalos, and various primates. Visitors can enjoy activities such as game drives, guided nature walks, and canoeing on the Momella Lakes.

I inquired about the cost of a day trip to the park, and it was always over 300 USD, which I found ridiculous, taking into consideration that a six-day safari to Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Parks cost me 200 USD per day, including food and overnight stays. Of course, the cost will be lower if you travel in a group and share the cost of the safari car.

Ifulong Cultural Tourism

‘Ifulong’ is derived from a Meru tribe word, which stands for a seasonal river valley with fertile banks that people use for growing various seasonal grains and vegetables. They have very interesting hiking programmes that also include the cultural aspect of the area, and you can even stay for the night in a local homestay.

I found this activity by accident when I visited the tourist information office with the intention of asking how to get to Arusha National Park. It proved to be out of my budget, but I saw the leaflet of Ifulong Cultural Tourism and decided to send them a message on WhatsApp asking about a possible one-day trip. Emmanuel was very responsive and I decided to do the hike the next day!

I took dala dala from Arusha to Someli, which is en route to the Usa River, and the guide was waiting for me at the bus stop. We started walking through the fields and climbing higher and higher. We met a lot of villagers, and it seemed that Emmanuel knew literally everyone, and he was a master of small talk. We continued to the viewpoint of Mount Meru and then started the descent, hiking back to the square with the school and the house of my guide, where we had a delicious lunch (banana soup, beans, pilau and fruits). After lunch, we had coffee made from local beans, together with milk and even vanilla. It tasted amazing!

Emmanuel was very talkative and interested in my country, so we had a really long and nice conversation on the way about the cultural differences between Poland and Tanzania. We also witnessed a meeting of villagers under the oldest tree in the area. Community support is important in this region of the world and if someone gets sick, then other people contribute at least a little bit to help. It is a kind of informal social insurance.

Last but not least, we stopped at the local bar, where I tried banana wine. A bit of a strange drink, sparkling and quite strong. Not something that I would like to drink very often but the experience of sitting in a bar with local guys was nice.

You may check the website of Ifulong Cultural Tourism HERE. Phone number to Emmanuel: +255 762 012 006. You can contact him on WhatsApp.

Monduli Juu Bush Maasai Experience

Monduli Juu is a scenic, highland area near Monduli town in northern Tanzania, known for its stunning landscapes, Maasai culture, and hiking opportunities. It is part of the Monduli Mountains, located about 50 km from Arusha.

The area is home to traditional Maasai communities, offering an authentic cultural experience, including visits to bomas (homesteads), learning about Maasai traditions, and experiencing their warrior training rituals.

I passed by many Maasai bomas in the Ngorongoro area, but all had rather negative reviews as not being very authentic. Therefore, I was looking for a better experience, and the Monduli Juu Bush Maasai Experience seemed to offer what I wanted. I contacted them on WhatsApp and was advised to come over on Saturday as then we would have the chance to have a look at the traditional Maasai Market.

Read more about my day trip to Monduli Juu in a separate post HERE.

Olpopongi Maasai Cultural Village & Museum

An alternative way to experience Maasai culture. They offer day tours and overnight tours where you will sleep in traditional houses.

Both options include a museum and village tour, a traditional lunch, a walking safari in the Maasai territory, and learning about Maasai hunting techniques as well as medicine related to wildlife. If you stay overnight, then you will learn more about ceremonies, and experience a campfire with a BBQ buffet and breakfast on the next day.

You can take dala dala from Arusha to Sanya Juu and then continue on a motorbike or by tuk-tuk. A day tour costs about 65 USD, while an overnight stay costs 115 USD (as of February 2025).

Mount Longido

Situated near the Kenya-Tanzania border, Mount Longido provides stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru, and the surrounding plains. The area is home to the Maasai people, who graze their cattle on its lower slopes. The trek to the summit is a challenging but rewarding experience, passing through acacia woodlands, montane forests, and rocky outcrops.

Read more about Mount Longido in a separate post HERE.

Lake Manyara National Park

Visitors to Lake Manyara can enjoy game drives, birdwatching, canoeing (seasonal), and cultural experiences in the nearby town of Mto wa Mbu. The lake is also home to fish species like tilapia and catfish, with the endangered Oreochromis amphimelas endemic to the area.

Read more about Lake Manyara National Park in a separate post HERE.

Lake Eyasi

Lake Eyasi is a shallow salt lake, located at the base of the Rift Valley. It lies southwest of the famous Serengeti National Park and just south of the Ngorongoro Crater. The lake’s size and water levels fluctuate dramatically depending on rainfall, sometimes nearly drying up in the dry season.

The region around Lake Eyasi is home to the Hadzabe as well as the Datonga people. The lake and its surroundings provide a unique ecosystem that supports a variety of bird species, including flamingos and pelicans, making it an interesting destination for both cultural and ecological tourism.

Read more about Lake Eyasi in a separate post HERE.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area is a unique protected region known for its diverse wildlife, stunning landscapes, and rich history. It is home to the Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest inactive, intact volcanic caldera, which supports many animals, including the Big Five: lions, elephants, buffaloes, leopards, and rhinos.

Read more about Ngorongoro Conservation Area in a separate post HERE.

Tarangire National Park

The park’s landscape is known for its iconic baobab trees, also known as the “Tree of Life.” Other than that, you will experience rolling savannas, wetlands, and acacia woodlands.

Tarangire is home to one of the largest elephant populations in Tanzania. You may also spot lions, leopards, cheetahs, giraffes, zebras, buffalo, wildebeest, and over 500 bird species.

Read more about Tarangire National Park in a separate post HERE.

Serengeti National Park

The Serengeti is one of Africa’s most iconic ecosystems, stretching across Tanzania and into Kenya. The name Serengeti comes from the Maasai word “Siringet,” meaning “endless plains.” This vast savanna is home to the Great Migration, where millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles move across the land in search of fresh grazing, followed closely by predators like lions, cheetahs, and hyenas.

Read more about Mount Longido in a separate post HERE.

Lake Natron & Ol Doinyo Lengai

Lake Natron, located near the Kenyan border, is a unique and highly alkaline lake known for its striking red and orange hues caused by the presence of salt-loving microorganisms and algae. The lake is one of the most important breeding grounds for lesser flamingos, as its extreme conditions provide a safe environment from predators. Due to high temperatures and mineral-rich waters, only a few species can survive here, making it a fascinating yet harsh ecosystem.

Near the lake stands Ol Doinyo Lengai, an active volcano often called the “Mountain of God” by the local Maasai people. It is the only volcano in the world that erupts natrocarbonatite lava, which is much cooler and less viscous than typical lava.

Climbing typically takes 5 to 7 hours to ascend and 3 to 4 hours to descend. Most climbers start around midnight to reach the summit by sunrise, as daytime temperatures can be extremely high. The trek is steep and challenging, requiring good physical fitness, but the reward is a stunning sunrise view over Lake Natron and the Great Rift Valley.

Visiting Lake Natron is quite expensive. You can reach the gate by travelling from Arusha with a Loliondo Bus, but you will need to organize further transfer to the accommodation. I inquired about the costs at Lake Natron Maasain Guest House, and here is what they told me:

The gate fee is 35 USD per person. Fees for activities like a hike to the lake or the waterfalls: 20 USD per person per activity. Wildlife fee 29,50 USD per person per night.

To climb the volcano: 100 USD per person (if you are with two people, then it’s 140 USD), plus a wildlife fee of 23.50 USD per person. On top of that, you will have to rent a car to get to the starting point of the climb. They have a car available for 70 USD. The car will wait for you until you come down from the volcano.

They charge 25 USD per person for the guesthouse, with breakfast included. Lunch costs 10 USD and dinner 15 USD.

If it’s in your budget, it might be a nice experience. I haven’t done it, as some of those costs sound like a pure scam to just empty tourists’ pockets. Unfortunately, typical practice in Tanzania.

Moshi

Moshi is a vibrant town known for its coffee culture and tourism industry and as a base for Kilimanjaro climbers. Despite modernization, it retains its rich Chagga heritage and colonial-era influences.

Read more about Moshi in a separate post HERE.

Kilimanjaro

If you’re in Arusha but don’t have time for a full Kilimanjaro climb, day hikes offer a perfect way to experience the mountain’s beauty, diverse landscapes, and rich culture without the intense commitment of a multi-day trek. Here are two popular variants:

1. Kilimanjaro Day Hike via Marangu Route

From Marangu Gate (1,870m) to Mandara Hut (2,700m). The distance is approximately 8 km round trip (4-6 hours). You will walk through the lush rainforest, hopefully spot colobus monkeys, and enjoy views of Maundi Crater.

Difficulty: Moderate

2. Kilimanjaro Day Hike via Machame Route

From Machame Gate (1,800m) to the First Campsite (~2,835m). The distance is approximately 11 km round trip (5-7 hours). You will walk through dense rainforests with very scenic trails, but this option is tougher than the Marangu variant.

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard

Lake Eyasi is a shallow salt lake in northern Tanzania, located at the base of the Rift Valley. It lies southwest of the famous Serengeti National Park and just south of the Ngorongoro Crater. The lake’s size and water levels fluctuate dramatically depending on rainfall, sometimes nearly drying up in the dry season. The area provides a unique ecosystem that supports a variety of bird species, including flamingos and pelicans, making it an interesting destination for both cultural and ecological tourism.

Besides all that, what attracts tourists to the region around Lake Eyasi is the presence of the Hadzabe as well as the Datonga people.

Hadzabe Tribe

Indigenous ethnic group in Tanzania, primarily living around Lake Eyasi. They are one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer societies in the world, relying on hunting wild animals and foraging for fruits, roots, and honey. Their way of life has remained largely unchanged for thousands of years, and they do not practice agriculture or animal husbandry.

Men hunt wild animals such as antelope, baboons, and birds using handmade bows and poison-tipped arrows, while women forage for fruits, tubers, berries, and honey. Their deep knowledge of the land allows them to track animals with incredible precision and find food in harsh conditions.

Hadzabe society is egalitarian, meaning there are no formal leaders or social hierarchies. Decisions are made collectively, and resources are shared among the group. There is no concept of personal wealth as everything from food to tools is distributed based on need.

They live in small, mobile groups, often consisting of extended families. Their shelters are simple, temporary structures made of branches and leaves, reflecting their nomadic lifestyle. When resources become scarce in one area, they move to another.

The Hadzabe speak a unique click language, which is unrelated to the languages of their neighboring tribes. Their language is part of the Khoisan language family, similar to the click languages spoken by indigenous groups in southern Africa. This linguistic uniqueness sets them apart from the surrounding Bantu and Nilotic-speaking populations.

The Hadzabe do not follow a structured religion, but they have spiritual beliefs connected to nature and ancestral spirits. They believe in the power of the sun and moon and practice rituals to ensure good hunting and well-being. Storytelling, music, and dance are central to their culture, serving as both entertainment and a way to pass down traditions.

Historically, the Hadzabe have had minimal interaction with neighboring communities, such as the Datoga and Sukuma. However, they do trade with the Datoga, often exchanging honey and animal skins for metal arrowheads. Despite these interactions, the Hadzabe have largely resisted assimilation and continue to maintain their traditional way of life.

Despite the pressures of modernization, the Hadzabe remain resilient. Some efforts are being made to protect their land rights and support their traditional lifestyle. Conservation groups and anthropologists have worked to document their culture and help them navigate the challenges of the modern world without losing their identity.

Datonga Tribe

A semi-nomadic pastoralist group known for its skills in cattle herding, blacksmithing, and craftsmanship. Traditionally, its wealth and social status are measured by the number of cattle it owns.

They are believed to have migrated to Tanzania from the Ethiopian highlands centuries ago, making them one of the oldest ethnic groups in the region. They are closely related to other Nilotic pastoralists, such as the Maasai, but have maintained a distinct identity through their customs, language, and social structure.

Datoga society is organized into clans, with strong kinship ties and a patriarchal system where elders play a significant role in decision-making. Marriage is an important institution, often involving bride price payments in the form of cattle. Polygamy is common, especially among wealthy men who can afford multiple wives. Women have important roles in managing households, milking cattle, and crafting traditional clothing and ornaments.

One of the unique aspects of Datoga culture is their blacksmithing skills. While they are primarily herders, some subgroups specialize in metalwork, creating tools, knives, spears, and arrowheads, which they trade with neighbouring communities, including the Hadzabe. This trade has historically been essential for both groups – the Hadzabe provide honey and animal skins, while the Datoga supply metal tools.

The Datoga have a rich spiritual tradition that is deeply connected to nature and ancestor worship. They believe in a supreme deity, whom they associate with the sky, rain, and fertility. Rituals, sacrifices, and ceremonies are common, especially during important life events such as birth, initiation, marriage, and death.

Like many indigenous groups, the Datoga face increasing challenges due to modernization, land encroachment, and government policies promoting settled lifestyles. Some have adapted by incorporating small-scale farming, but others resist change, striving to preserve their nomadic traditions. Education levels remain low among the Datoga, as formal schooling is not traditionally emphasized in their society.

How to get there?

By Air

The nearest major airport is Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), located near Arusha. From there it’s 250 km (around 5-7 hours) to Lake Eyasi.

By Road

Most visitors travel to Lake Eyasi by road, usually as part of a safari tour but reaching it by public transport is also possible.

From Arusha: The drive takes about 4 to 5 hours via Karatu. The road is well-paved until Karatu, but the final stretch to Lake Eyasi is a rough dirt road.

If travelling by public transport, take a local bus or shared taxi (dala-dala) from Arusha to Karatu, and then change to a shared 4×4 Land Cruiser, or hire a private car or motorcycle to reach the lake.

From Ngorongoro Crater: If you’re coming from Ngorongoro, it’s about a 2 to 3-hour drive.

From Serengeti: It takes about 5 to 6 hours, depending on your starting point in the park.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Lake Eyasi is during the dry season, from June to October, when the weather is cooler, and wildlife is easier to spot. During this period, the lake’s water levels are lower, attracting a variety of bird species, including flamingos. It’s also an excellent time to interact with the Hadzabe and Datoga communities, as access to their villages is easier due to dry roads.

The wet season (November to May) brings lush landscapes and fuller water levels, making it a great time for birdwatching. However, travel can be more challenging due to muddy roads, and some areas may be inaccessible. If you’re interested in cultural experiences, both seasons offer opportunities to meet local tribes, but the dry season is generally more convenient for travel.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Sarafina Guesthouse. The rooms were clean but there were lots of mosquitos inside. Luckily, a good-quality net above the bed was provided but I could still hear them buzzing which was disturbing.

You may also consider staying in Ziwani Lodge or Eyasi Safari Motel.

Going independently or with a guide?

Lake Eyasi can be reached independently although most people come there as a part of a safari trip including national parks. If you decide to do it by yourself, use public transport from Arusha to reach Karatu and then Mang’ola.

Upon arrival, ask your guesthouse or motel to arrange a guide and motorbike taxi to the shore of Lake Eyasi or Hadzabe and Datonga villages.

If you prefer taking a guide from Arusha, I recommend getting in touch with Daudi (+255 621 146 836). He is a great guy who speaks English very well and will help you to get around Arusha and its surroundings. The trip to Lake Eyasi (2 Days 1 Night), including public transport, accommodation and visits to tribes will cost you about 150 – 170 USD, depending on your negotiation skills. I don’t recommend a one-day trip as you will spend most of the time on the bus and you won’t get the chance to join hunting together with Hadzabe.

My experience

Day 1

I had an early morning breakfast and then went to the meet with Daudi, who was again my guide. A few days before we did a walking tour in Arusha and that was when we decided to go to Lake Eyasi together. We found a shared car (locally called Noah) heading to Karatu, where we changed for the shared jeep (old Land Rover Defender) heading towards Mang’ola Village. Both vehicles were full to the limits, and even changing sitting position was difficult. Tanzanians have the unique ability to squeeze themselves and even the driver shared his seat with another passenger!

The jeep dropped us in front of the guesthouse. The room was okay and there was even hot water, but it was full of mosquitos. Luckily, as usual in Tanzania, a mosquito net was provided.

Soon, the local guide arrived on his motorcycle and we went to the lakeside. There were a lot of fishermen, living in temporary tents made of some kind of plastic foil and wood. Apparently, they come from different parts of the country to spend a few months at the lake to do fishing and earn money.

A group of local boys took us on a short boat trip. They paddled around and we got closer to fishing nets and made a stop on a small sand bank. There, we waited for the sunset. Fishermen were pulling the nets out of the lake and it looked like a really hard work. They had ropes attached to their waist and were making characteristic movements forward and backwards.

After sunset, we went to eat dinner in a local bar/restaurant. A very kitschy place with mediocre food but there were no alternatives. Then, we went back to the accommodation, agreed on the plan for the next day and Daudi explained to me a bit about what we could see in the sky. The conditions were great for stargazing as there was minimal light pollution in the village.

The night was quite bad as it was very hot to sleep and the mosquitos were buzzing outside of the net like crazy. I think sleeping in that room without a mosquito net would be suicidal!

Day 2

We woke up at 4:30 AM and left the guesthouse at 5 AM when it was still pitch black but the night sky looked amazing as it was full of stars! The motorbike ride took nearly an hour, and when we arrived at the Hadzabe tribe, they were still sleeping. The fire smoldered in the fireplace and after a moment a figure emerged from the darkness to greet us.

A father with his two children got ready for the hunt and we joined them. We walked for quite a bit until we reached a dry river bed and started following it looking for prints of animals on the sand. For quite a long time Hadzabe were trying to chase warthog but unsuccessfully. Following them wasn’t easy as the vegetation was thick and full of thorns and I had a backpack.

The warthog was lucky enough to get away so Hadzabe started trying to get the monkey. It was sitting on a huge baobab tree so they were throwing stones, hoping for the monkey to change position and get in the range of the arrows. After probably an hour of trying, climbing the tree and doing all the tricks, they had to give up. It wasn’t a lucky day for the Hadzabe and it showed that hunting for wild animals isn’t easy at all!

We made a small break and the father with his two sons (10-14 years old) shared… a giant joint. Then, we walked deeper into the bush again looking for the traces of animals but in the end, we came back to camp with empty hands. I tried shooting from the bow, took some more pictures of people and the visit was concluded with a short dancing performance. That part felt a bit too touristy for me.

We jumped on motorbikes again and went to the Datonga tribe. We watched them making an arrowhead from the start to finish: melting old iron, putting it into long and thin form, and then using a hammer and other tools to shape it. Quite boring to be honest! I wanted to take some pictures of people but they were very shy and not willing to look in the camera.

Then, we went for a quick lunch before we were dropped in the lodge to pick up the things and wait for the jeep heading back to Karatu. There, we changed to the shared car heading to Arusha and luckily the driver offered us paying for an extra seat so we could leave immediately without waiting for more passengers. We also had more space which was so much more comfortable!

Monduli Juu is a scenic, highland area near Monduli town in northern Tanzania, known for its stunning landscapes, Maasai culture, and hiking opportunities. It is part of the Monduli Mountains, located about 50 km from Arusha.

The area is home to traditional Maasai communities, offering an authentic cultural experience, including visits to bomas (homesteads), learning about Maasai traditions, and experiencing their warrior training rituals.

I passed by many Maasai bomas in the Ngorongoro area, but all had rather negative reviews as not being very authentic. Therefore, I was looking for a better experience, and the Monduli Juu Bush Maasai Experience seemed to offer what I wanted. I contacted them on WhatsApp and was advised to come over on Saturday as then we would have the chance to have a look at the traditional Maasai Market.

Maasai Tribe

The Maasai are one of the most well-known ethnic groups in Tanzania, recognized for their distinctive dress, semi-nomadic lifestyle, and deep-rooted traditions. They primarily live in northern Tanzania and southern Kenya, inhabiting areas like the Ngorongoro and Monduli. Their culture is built around livestock, community, and spiritual beliefs that have been passed down for generations.

Livelihood and Economy

The Maasai are traditionally pastoralists, relying on cattle, goats, and sheep for food, trade, and status. Cattle are central to their way of life, providing milk, blood, and meat, though in modern times, many Maasai also engage in small-scale farming and tourism-related activities.

Social Structure and Community Life

Maasai society is highly communal, with an emphasis on age-set systems that determine roles and responsibilities. Young boys begin as herders, while young men undergo initiation ceremonies to become warriors. Elders hold the most respected positions, guiding the community in decision-making and traditional knowledge.

Dress and Adornment

Maasai clothing is colorful and symbolic. Men often wear shúkàs (a red or blue cloth wrapped around the body), while women adorn themselves with intricate beadwork, earrings, and necklaces that indicate age, marital status, and social rank. Bead colors have different meanings – red symbolizes bravery, blue represents the sky, and white signifies purity.

Language and Oral Traditions

The Maasai speak Maa, a Nilotic language, but many also speak Swahili and English due to interactions with other communities and tourism. Their history, values, and lessons are passed down through oral storytelling, songs, and proverbs rather than written records.

Spiritual Beliefs and Rituals

The Maasai believe in a supreme god, Enkai (or Engai), who controls rain and fertility. Rituals and ceremonies, such as Eunoto (warrior initiation) and Enkipaata (boyhood initiation), are essential in transitioning through life stages. The jumping dance (Adumu), performed during celebrations, is one of their most famous traditions.

Challenges and Modern Adaptations

While the Maasai have maintained their traditions, modernization, land disputes, and climate change have influenced their way of life. Some Maasai have adapted by engaging in education, conservation work, and tourism while still preserving their cultural identity.

How to get there?

By Road

Take a dala dala (minibus) or shared car from Arusha to Monduli (about 1 hour). When you arrive at the bus stand, find a motorbike (boda boda) driver or another shared car that will take you further to Monduli Juu.

The best time to visit

Dry Season (June to October – Best for Safaris & Hiking)

Little to no rainfall, making it ideal for outdoor activities like hiking in the Monduli Mountains and visiting Arusha National Park. Wildlife is easier to spot due to spthe arse vegetation. Cooler temperatures, especially in the mornings and evenings.

Short Rainy Season (November to December – Green Landscapes)

Short rains bring lush scenery, which is great for photography. Wildlife is still visible, but roads might be muddy.

Long Rainy Season (March to May – Least Recommended)

Heavy rains can make some roads difficult to navigate. Higher chances of cloud cover and reduced visibility.

Day trip to Monduli Juu

I took a morning dala dala to Monduli town, and I was squeezed to the limits with 4 people sitting on the seat for 3. I paid 2.000 TZS. Once I arrived in the town, I jumped on a boda boda heading towards Monduli Juu (10.000 TZS).

We were riding on an unpaved road, and at some point, a police patrol stopped us. Suddenly, out of nowhere, my guide, whom I was supposed to meet at the red market, appeared. His name was Nathaniel, and he said that we were going the wrong way. He brought his motorbike, and we continued the journey together. At this time of the day, the market was almost empty, so we just went for a short walk and then set off to the Maasai Boma.

We had a look inside a few houses, but women were cooking inside, and it was hard to breathe as the interiors were full of smoke. Anyway, I could see how they live and sleep and I must say: WOW. No running water, just sleeping on the ground or some improvised wooden bed with a cow’s skin on top. Maasai can have several wives, so inside the boma, there are houses in the circular layout and inside each of them lives one wife. Sometimes, the man goes out for a few weeks to walk with livestock and women stay, taking care of the houses and kids.

There were lots of children, and they were very curious, following me and Nathaniel closely.

From the boma, we continued to the Monduli Juu Camp, where we started our walk to the viewpoint. On the way, we even managed to see some giraffes, so it felt like we were on a walking safari! A very nice experience! The view was cool, and we could see the impressive Rift Valley.

Then, we walked to the praying tree. According to local people, it has special powers, and they put stones on its branches, hoping for their dreams to come true. So did I.

Finally, we came back to the market, which was already in full swing. Plenty of perfect photo opportunities, although the people selling goats didn’t like the fact that I was walking around with a camera. My guide told me not to worry as those were the Maasai from Dar es Salaam, who aren’t as friendly and open as the local people.

We went on the other side of the road to see other stalls, and the atmosphere was fantastic. People were selling fruits and veggies, shoes, food, and plenty of other things. I managed to take some shots, although I was observed by everyone. The guide helped me a bit by distracting people with conversation and drawing away their attention.

In general, I didn’t get as many nice photos as I was hoping for, but still, it was a nice place to visit. We jumped on the motorbike and Nathaniel took me back to Monduli town. The weather was getting worse, and there was even a short drizzle on the way. In town, I caught dala dala heading back to Arusha.

Costs

According to the official brochure, a day trip to Monduli, including all activities (visit in a traditional boma, hike to the viewpoint and to the Lion Tree to make a wish, meeting a traditional healer, Maasai dance, picnic lunch and optional visit to the Saturday market), costs 120 USD for 1st person (without transport) and then 40 USD extra for every additional visitor. If you are not interested, you can resign from some activities and re-negotiate the price accordingly.

The market can be reached independently at minimal cost, but the presence of the guide helped a lot with taking pictures and the visit to the traditional boma and the hike were worth too. Here are some contact details:

Monduli Juu Bush Camp: +255 765 799 486

Nathaniel (guide): +255 713 758737

Moshi, a lively town in northern Tanzania, sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro, making it the gateway for climbers heading to Africa’s highest peak. But beyond its role in tourism, Moshi has a fascinating history shaped by indigenous cultures, colonial rule, and economic growth.

Long before colonial influence, Moshi was part of the Chagga kingdom, an ethnic group known for their advanced agricultural practices, including the ingenious Irrigation Furrow System that still supplies water to farms today. The Chagga people lived in small chiefdoms, often competing for power and resources, until they were later unified under external influences.

When German explorers arrived in the late 19th century, they recognized Moshi’s potential due to its fertile land and strategic location. The Germans established Moshi as a colonial administrative centre and built roads, railways, and coffee plantations.

During World War I, British forces took over Moshi from the Germans, and it became part of British Tanganyika. The British continued coffee production and infrastructure development, further integrating Moshi into the regional economy.

After Tanzania gained independence (1961), Moshi flourished as a centre for coffee production. The Kilimanjaro Native Cooperative Union (KNCU), one of Africa’s oldest coffee cooperatives, played a major role in empowering local farmers.

Today, Moshi is a vibrant town known for its coffee culture and tourism industry and as a base for Kilimanjaro climbers. Despite modernization, it retains its rich Chagga heritage and colonial-era influences.

How to get there?

By Air

The nearest airport is Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), located about 40 km from Moshi. It serves international and domestic flights.

Taxi/Private Transfer from the airport to town takes 45 minutes and costs about $30-$50. Alternatively, some hotels and tour companies offer shared transfers (~$10-$20) or just take a local tuk-tuk and negotiate the price.

You can also fly into Julius Nyerere International Airport (DAR) in Dar es Salaam or Abeid Amani Karume Airport (ZNZ) in Zanzibar and take a domestic flight to JRO or Arusha.

By Road

From Arusha (80 km, 1.5-2 hours) – Buses, shared taxis, and private transfers run frequently.

From Dar es Salaam (500 km, 8-10 hours) – Luxury buses like Kilimanjaro Express or Dar Express offer comfortable rides for 15-20 USD.

From Nairobi, Kenya (350 km, 6-7 hours) – Shuttle services run daily, costing about 30 USD. Border crossing at Namanga is required.

By Train

Tanzania’s rail network is limited, but there is a train from Dar es Salaam to Moshi (though infrequent and slow). Buses are a better option.

The best time to visit

June to October (Dry Season)

Clear skies, warm days, and cooler nights. Best time for Kilimanjaro climbing and outdoor activities. Ideal for coffee tours, cultural visits, and exploring waterfalls.

January to mid-March (Short Dry Season)

Great for trekking in warmer temperatures. Lush green landscapes after the short rains.

Months to avoid:

Mid-March to May (Long Rainy Season)

Heavy rains make trails slippery. Not ideal for Kilimanjaro trekking, but the waterfalls are at their fullest.

November to early December (Short Rains)

Unpredictable weather, but fewer tourists.

For coffee lovers:

If you’re visiting for a coffee tour, aim for September to December, when the coffee cherries are being harvested. It’s a great time to see the full process from picking to roasting, with the added bonus of lush green scenery.

Where to stay?

I recommend Karibu Africa House and The Better Inn. Both places offer good quality at an affordable price, and they also offer day trips to Lake Chala or Marangu, but Karibu Africa House is significantly cheaper in that aspect.

Places worth seeing in Moshi

You don’t need a lot of time to get around the town as most of the interesting places to see are located out of it. Luckily, the distances aren’t long!

Mbuyuni Market

It is one of the busiest and most vibrant local markets in town. You can find there a variety of locally grown fruits, vegetables, and spices, butcher stalls and fresh fish from nearby lakes, colourful kitenge and khanga fabrics, plus second-hand clothes, traditional Maasai jewellery, woven baskets, and souvenirs.

Places worth seeing outside of Moshi

Rau Forest Reserve

It is a lush, tropical forest located just a few kilometres from Moshi, offering a peaceful escape into nature. Home to colobus monkeys, blue monkeys, dik-diks, and a variety of bird species. The forest can be explored on guided nature walks or bike tours.

Materuni Waterfall and Coffee Tour

The road to the waterfalls was quite bumpy as it was going up the hills. I just got a boda boda driver on the street and asked him to take me there and back. Remember to negotiate the price before you jump on the motorbike, and make sure that waiting time is included.

Once we arrived, I was immediately offered an expensive package of waterfall and coffee plantation tours, but luckily, during the first weeks in Tanzania, I improved my negotiation skills and was able to get a much better deal.

We started with a coffee plantation. It wasn’t harvesting season, so we didn’t see many coffee beans on the trees, but after introduction, I was shown how to dry the beans, smash them into powder and separate them from the shells. At the end, there was a tasting session. Everything was accompanied by a group of villagers singing. Pretty cool!

Afterwards, I changed the guide, and we walked to the waterfall. He was a nice guy, and the route was pretty too, packed with white tourists. It’s rather an easy 30-40-minute slow walk through the community area and a forest rather than hiking. The guide is not necessary as the path is clear, but they try to earn money, which is understandable. It’s crazy that this trip is offered by tour agents for about 100 USD from Moshi, while by doing it yourself and coming on a motorbike, you can cut costs to 20-30 USD.

The waterfall was impressive! It’s about 80 meters tall, with lots of water and green surroundings but not suitable for swimming. It was worth coming here!

Kikuletwa Springs

Clean blue water with small fish that nibble you if you stay still in the water, but they are not harmful. You can rent rubber tubes for 5.000 TZS or swimming goggles for 10.000 TZS. There is also a swing. You can either decide to get a transfer there from Karibu Africa House for 50 USD or save yourself money and go independently by hiring a boda boda (motorbike) driver from Moshi and negotiating the price. It should be fair to pay between 30.000 – 40.000 TZS with waiting time as it is about 40 kilometres one way.

Marangu

Tucked away in the lush foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, Marangu is a charming Tanzanian village that offers far more than just the most famous route to Africa’s highest peak. Verdant coffee farms, waterfalls cascading through dense rainforests, and hidden caves tell stories of both nature and history.

Read more about Marangu in a separate post HERE.

Lake Chala

Lake Chala is a stunning crater lake on the border of Tanzania and Kenya. It was formed over 250,000 years ago due to volcanic activity associated with Mount Kilimanjaro. It sits in a deep caldera, which was created by a massive eruption that caused the land to cave in, forming the lake basin. Over time, underground springs fed by Kilimanjaro’s glaciers filled the crater, creating the lake we see today.

Lake Chala is about 55 km from Moshi. Many tour operators in Moshi and Arusha offer guided day trips, including transport, meals, and activities like hiking or kayaking. I found the best price at Karibu Africa House in Moshi – 80 USD, all-inclusive. Ignore other offers asking for 150 – 200 USD as this is a typical Tanzanian rip-off.

Read more about Lake Chala in a separate post HERE.

Kilimanjaro

Suppose you’re in Moshi but don’t have time for a full Kilimanjaro climb. In that case, day hikes offer a perfect way to experience the mountain’s beauty, diverse landscapes, and rich culture without the intense commitment of a multi-day trek. Here are two popular variants:

1. Kilimanjaro Day Hike via Marangu Route

From Marangu Gate (1,870m) to Mandara Hut (2,700m). The distance is approximately 8 km round trip (4-6 hours). You will walk through the lush rainforest, hopefully spot colobus monkeys, and enjoy views of Maundi Crater.

Difficulty: Moderate

2. Kilimanjaro Day Hike via Machame Route

From Machame Gate (1,800m) to the First Campsite (~2,835m). The distance is approximately 11 km round trip (5-7 hours). You will walk through dense rainforests with very scenic trails, but this option is tougher than the Marangu variant.

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard

Tucked away in the lush foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, Marangu is a charming Tanzanian village that offers far more than just the most famous route to Africa’s highest peak. The Marangu Route, often dubbed the “Coca-Cola Route” for its relative ease and comfort, is the most well-trodden path up Kilimanjaro. But many don’t realize that the mountain’s lower slopes around Marangu are just as mesmerizing as the summit itself. Verdant coffee farms, waterfalls cascading through dense rainforest, and hidden caves tell stories of nature and history.

How to get there?

Lake Chala is about 55 km from Moshi and 140 km from Arusha.

From Moshi

Dala-Dala (Local Minibus) is the cheapest option, costing less than $2, but it can be slow and crowded.

A private taxi should cost around $20-$30, taking 45 minutes to an hour.

From Arusha

Regular minibuses and shared taxis run between Arusha and Moshi, taking 1.5 to 2 hours. From Moshi, you can continue by dala-dala or taxi.

Self-drive

If you prefer driving, you can rent a car in Arusha or Moshi. The road to Marangu is well-paved and easy to navigate, with scenic views of Kilimanjaro along the way. Just watch out for speed bumps!

By Tour Package

Many tour operators in Moshi and Arusha offer guided day trips, including transport, meals, and activities like hiking or coffee tours. However, they will quote you about 100 USD or more, and you will save a lot of money by doing it yourself and hiring a local guide near Marangu Bus Stand. It’s really easy.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Marangu depends on what you’re looking for – whether it’s trekking Kilimanjaro, exploring the waterfalls, or immersing yourself in the local culture. But generally, the dry seasons offer the best experience.

January to mid-March: Warm temperatures, clear skies, and fewer crowds. This is one of the best times for climbing Kilimanjaro or hiking around the waterfalls.

June to October – The peak season for Kilimanjaro climbs. The weather is stable, but the trails can get busy, especially around the Marangu Route. This is also the best time for exploring the lush landscapes without too much rain.

Months to avoid:

Mid-March to May – Heavy rains can make trails slippery and waterfalls harder to access. However, if you enjoy dramatic landscapes and don’t mind the rain, the greenery is at its most vibrant.

November to early December – A shorter rainy season, but still brings unpredictable weather. If you visit during this time, be prepared for occasional downpours.

For coffee lovers:

If you’re visiting for a coffee tour, aim for September to December, when the coffee cherries are being harvested. It’s a great time to see the full process from picking to roasting, with the added bonus of lush green scenery.

Where to stay?

I recommend Karibu Africa House and The Better Inn. Both places offer good quality at an affordable price, and they also offer day trips to Lake Chala or Marangu, but Karibu Africa House is significantly cheaper in that aspect.

How much does it cost?

I don’t share the exact entrance fees here, as they can vary, but expect to pay between 10.000 – 20.000 TZS per attraction. Whatever price they want you to pay at the entrances to the waterfalls, always ask for the official receipt. If they can’t give you one, try to negotiate the price down by at least 50%. You may say that you are volunteering in Moshi or Arusha so as not to look like a typical tourist. I use this strict very often, but even though it’s a lie, I don’t feel bad about it as even when I get to pay the resident price, it’s still much higher than the price for locals.

Also, don’t let them fool you into thinking that taking a guide down the falls is necessary. You can take one if you wish to, but you will be perfectly fine going solo. That’s how things work in Tanzania, and you need to be decisive and strong, otherwise, locals will take advantage of you.

My experience

It was quick to get into dala-dala heading to Marangu, however the travel was so damn slow. In one of the towns, Himo, we waited for a very long time for passengers to join, and some annoying boda-boda driver approached the bus and started annoyingly talking to me and asking for money.

When I finally reached Marangu, almost immediately, I was approached by a guy who asked to be my guide. I had a plan to explore the area independently, but it was really difficult to get rid of him, and at some point, I was like, why not? He made a very friendly impression on me, so we agreed on the price and proceeded to the first stop: Chagga Museum.

Just to make it clear: taking a guide in the Marangu area is absolutely not necessary, and it is easy enough to find the way using navigation or Mapy.CZ. If you decide to hire one, always discuss the costs upfront and make sure they know which places you want to visit.

Chagga Museum, Tunnels, Coffee Tour

Carved by the Chagga people centuries ago, these caves served as hideouts during conflicts with the Maasai. Walking through the narrow, dimly lit tunnels, you can almost feel the echoes of the past, imagining the resilience of those who once sought refuge here.

The Maasai are a pastoralist society that relies heavily on cattle. The Chagga, who were primarily agriculturalists, also kept livestock. Maasai warriors (Morans) would often raid Chagga villages for cattle, as wealth and social status in Maasai culture were closely tied to the number of cows a man owned.

Moreover, the Chagga lived on the fertile slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, where there was a reliable water supply from the mountain streams. The Maasai, who lived in the drier plains below, frequently moved in search of pasture and water, leading to clashes over these resources.

To protect themselves from Maasai raids, the Chagga created an elaborate system of underground tunnels and caves, which served as hiding places and escape routes. These tunnels were dug beneath villages or near forests, making them hard to detect. Some tunnels had separate rooms for families, food storage, and even livestock, ensuring survival during prolonged attacks.

The Chagga huts located at the same site showed where they lived in peacetime. There was an actual cow’s calf and goat tied in there, and I had very mixed feelings about it as it was probably a set up just for tourists. The fire is lit every day, apparently to prevent the timber from getting insects.

They also do coffee tours, but I wasn’t interested in joining as I have already done one in Materuni.

Waterfalls

After the museum, we went for a hike to three waterfalls. The first one was Komteshane Moonjo Falls. Small and unimpressive but with quite a big pool if you want to dip in. Anyway, definitely not worth the entrance fee or the time.

The second one, Ndoro Falls, was much better. Be prepared for a short, winding hike to and from the cliff tops to the waterfall below. It’s a good idea to wear shoes with grip! You can take a dip if you enjoy cold water.

The third and last was Kilasiya Falls. There is a trail with a wooden ramp leading down. The rocks leading to the falls are slippery, so I recommend wearing water shoes or sandals.

Other waterfalls in the area that may be worth checking out are Paradise Falls, Kinukamori Falls, and Kilimanjaro Village Falls.