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In Europe December 3, 2021

Teruel: the capital of Mudejar architecture

I didn’t know what to expect from the Aragon region of Spain. Zaragoza was okayish but nothing breathtaking and… Teruel? Never heard about that city before but it seemed to be a good place to stop on the way to more touristic Albarracín. How lucky I was! I love this feeling when after arrival to a rather small town for an simple overnight stay without high expectations, I fall in love with it and it becomes one of the highlights of my trip. And that is exactly what happened with the capital of Mudejar architecture – Teruel.

From the historical point of view, besides the fascinating period of Muslim influence and development of Mudejar architecture (which I will explain further on), Teruel has also some dark pages written in the period of the Spanish Civil War when a significant part of the city was destroyed due to heavy artillery and aerial bombardment. The Battle of Teruel lasted from December 1937 until February 1938 and was one of the most tragic of the war, claiming the lives of about 140,000 casualties.

Teruel

How long to stay?

I suggest staying at least 1 night in town, especially if you want to do some hikes (and you definitely should). Cañon Rojo Teruel and Camino Natural del Rio Guadalaviar are only a short drive away and the views are simply amazing.

Canon Rojo, Aragon — Canon Rojo, easily accessible from Teruel

Where to stay?

I can fully recommend Hostal Aragon, located just next to Plaza de El Torico. A single room with fast internet, a small desk and a private bathroom cost me about 30 EUR (in October 2021).

Architecture

Mudejar style is unique in Spain and reminded me of the trip to Andalusia one year before, where traces of strong Muslim influence are still clearly visible.

As a result of the Reconquista, so a long series of battles led by Christian states to expel the Muslims from the mid-700s to 1492, towns and villages were coming back into Christian hands one after another. However, some Muslims were allowed to stay in Iberia and were not initially converted to Christianity or exiled. Instead, their skills were used to create decorative elements that referred to Islamic arts (e.g. calligraphy, intricate geometry, and vegetal forms) and which were later merged with Christian styles of architecture. Walking on the street of Teruel is an experience in itself and you better have your camera ready!

The Legend of the Lovers of Teruel

The story is set in the 13th century when Juan Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura fell in love. Both of them were from different social classes and Isabel’s father refused to give the hand of his daughter to the man without money. However, they managed to agree with the father to give Diego 5 years to collect funds, before arranging the marriage of Isabel with someone more appropriate.

Diego returned to the city 5 years later only to discover that Isabel got married one day before his arrival. He did not realize he was one day late, as had not considered the day the agreement was reached to be part of the five-year limit. Bad luck, right? Well, now the dramatic part starts.

Diego asked Isabel for a kiss but she refused out of loyalty to her new husband. Diego’s heart was totally broken and he died. At his funeral, Isabel’s grief was so strong that she decided to give Diego the kiss he had wanted so badly in life. And as she did so… she died.

The story of two lovers inspired the citizens of Teruel to demand their burial together so that at least then they could be together. This request was granted by the church. The fame of the couple soon spread through Spain. In 1560 two mummies were exhumed and placed in the tombs where they now rest and the carved figures on the lids nearly touch their hands.

Teruel, Aragon, Spain — Tombs of the Lovers of Teruel

The Legend of Two Towers

Yes, there is another legend, and guess what? Obviously love messed up again! This time it is all about two Muslim architects, Abdalá and Omar, who worked in Teruel at the beginning of the 14th century. The Christians were looking for someone willing to build attached towers for the churches of San Martín and El Salvador, and the mentioned two got the job.

And then…. surprise, surprise. A beautiful Moor woman named Zoraida crossed the path of the masters. Both of them fell in love and she also couldn’t make the decision and choose the one. Then Zoraida’s father came up with a brilliant idea. The one who would raise the most beautiful tower in the shortest time would get the hand of his daughter.

After some time, Omar finished his work first but he was not a winner. The San Martín tower wasn’t straight! Zoraida married Abdalá and they both enjoyed the views from El Salvador Tower, including the rival’s tower close by.

Places worth seeing

Fundacion Amantes – Definitely the most popular tourist attraction in town. Besides the Mausoleum of the Lovers, where you can see the famous alabaster tombs of Juan Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura, you can visit the Church of San Pedro, with its beautiful ornate ceiling in gold stars, as well as cloister, apse and garden.

The combined ticket for all sights costs 9 EUR which, in my opinion, is quite a steep price for what the place has to offer. Audioguide is included.

The Tower of San Pedro, which is the oldest of Mudejar towers in town also belongs to the complex but unfortunately, it wasn’t accessible on the day of my visit.

Catedral de Santa Maria de Mediavilla and Museo de Arte Sacro – The cathedral was built in the same place where Santa María de Mediavilla Church once stood. The Moor called Juzaff was responsible for replacing the Romanesque apses with Gothic-Mudejar ones, of which only the main chapel remains. The roof of the central nave is the most representative of the period, because of its structure and decoration. It is 32 metres long and dates from the 14^th century. The dome in the central nave was built in the 16^th century. The Mudejar tower began to be erected in 1257, which makes it one of the oldest Mudéjar towers in Spain. It is square and has three floors heavily decorated with tiles.

The only thing that I didn’t like is the fact that you can’t visit the cathedral alone, but you are forced to buy a combined ticket including also a museum, which I wasn’t particularly interested in. The ticket costs 6 EUR.

Torre de El Salvador – The tower was most probably completed in the first quarter of the 14th century, imitating San Martin Tower. There is a viewpoint on top of it and simple exhibitions on three floors on the way up, including English translations. The entry costs 2.5 EUR.

Torre de San Martin – Even though it looks similar to Torre de El Salvador and can’t be climbed, it’s still worth having a look and admiring another spectacular example of Mudejar architecture. It was completed in 1316 and included in the city walls in the 16th century.

Museo Provincial – Excellent museum with free entrance and extensive collections of artefacts from prehistoric times through the modern era.

Aljibe Medieval – Ruins of the old well that were used as storage for rainwater. The visit includes an audiovisual presentation about the history of Teruel and costs only 1.3 EUR.

Plaza de El Torico – The beautiful square with gorgeous buildings and plenty of restaurants. One of Teruel’s best-known monuments is located there. It’s a very small statue of a bull on top of a tall column.

La Escalinata – This neo-Mudejar style work was built between 1920 and 1921 to connect the Plaza del Óvalo at the top with the train station at the bottom. In the centre of the stairway, you can admire the town’s coat of arms and the work by Aniceto Marinas that reflects the famous story of the lovers of Teruel that I described at the beginning of the post.

Aqueduct of Los Arcos – The structure was built between 1537 and 1558, with two levels. The bottom one serves even today as a pedestrian overpass and the upper one was used for transporting the water.

Morning light around Aqueduct of Los Arcos

Viaducto de Fernando Hué – Impressive work of architecture built in 1929, linking the old town of Teruel with the area where the city expanded.

Hiking trips in the area

Cañon Rojo Teruel – If you want to feel like you are on the set of a western movie, this is the place. The arid landscape is truly unique, especially characteristic reddish clay formations and nearly vertical walls towering above your head.

This spectacular landscape is located about 5 kilometres from Teruel so you can either walk, cycle or drive there by car. I chose the last option, following N330 road and at some point turning right into the dirt road. Just follow Google Maps directions.

Once there, I suggest using the All Trails mobile app to navigate around. You can either do a circular trail or simply walk around the place for an hour or two, taking great pictures. The trails are not marked but paths are clearly visible.

Canon Rojo, Teruel, Aragon — One of the most beautiful photo spot

Camino Natural del Rio Guadalaviar – Beautiful route along the Guadalaviar river leading from San Blas to the Arquillo Reservoir. It is a little over 3 km one way, with the possibility of taking alternative path back to the parking, which goes much higher following the edge of the canyon, with the nice panoramic views of Teruel area. All paths are very well signposted.

In Europe November 7, 2021

Calpe: climbing the epic rock on the Costa Blanca

Once the ancient fishing village and today one of the busiest tourist destinations on Costa Blanca. Calpe’s location is a big benefit and it might be a great base for exploration of the region. 1 hour to Alicante and 1.5 hours to Valencia, but there are also other charming towns nearby such as Denia, Xabia, Gandia, Altea or more of a party spot Benidorm.

Climbing Ifach Rock

The town is dominated by that towering rock of Ifach and you may wonder how the panorama looks like from the very top. It has 332 metres and the summit can be reached after a demanding but doable hike for about 2.5 hours (there and back). The first part is a good and easy warm-up leading to the tunnel. After that, a more serious path with big and sometimes slippery stones begins. Good footwear is absolutely essential! Before taking a turn to the summit, continue straight for a bit longer and check out Mirador de Carabineros.

Then, return to the crossroad and follow the trail all the way to the top of the rock. From there, on a clear day, even the island of Ibiza could be visible. In fact, in the past Peñon d’Ifach was used as a watchtower to spot advancing pirates and to warn the surrounding community.

Other things to experience

Playa Arenal Bol – The most popular beach in town but it’s very long, so you will always find a spot. There are many restaurants and shops nearby and the city centre is within walking distance.

Platja de la Fossa – Another beautiful beach with clear blue water and nice restaurants along the promenade.

Spanish Stairs – Charming little street with stairs painted in Spanish colours.

Spanish stairs, Calpe — Calle de Puchalt

Torreó de la Peça – remains of a defensive bastion where a piece of artillery that defended the town from Moorish attacks was installed. There seems to be a small museum inside but opening hours are limited and comments say that the content is in Spanish only.

Edificio La Muralla Roja – Designed by Ricardo Bofill and completed in 1973, this residential building, with 50 family homes inside, is located on the edge of a cliff in La Manzanera. Its red facade contrasts with the pink and blue interiors. Unfortunately, it’s private property, off-limits to tourists. Keep your distance and respect it. In the end, people live there and they need some peace!

La Muralla Roja, Calpe — Edificio La Muralla Roja from a drone

Edifici Xanadú – Another interesting spot to architecture lovers designed by Ricardo Bofill and completed in 1968. Similar to Edificio La Muralla Roja, it’s a residential building so going inside is not an option.

Cala La Manzanera – Rocky beach just at the foot of Edificio La Muralla Roja. Excellent views to the Penyal d’Ifac.

Passeig Ecològic de Benissa – Hiking route passing by numerous Benissa coves with informative and explanatory panels. Starts on the north of Calpe, around Cala de la Fustera. About 3.5 km one way.

Salinas de Calpe – An unusual salty lagoon located in the centre of town. It was exploited for hundreds of years as a salt industry but now is no longer used as such, since it stopped working in 1988. It’s an important habitat of numerous animal species, e.g. flamingos.

Mirador Morro de Toix & Antenas de Toix – definitely one of the best views of Calpe. It’s about 3 kilometres round trip.

Mascarat Canyon – Amazing and very easy hike to do, going straight into the ravine. Leave your car at Platja Mascarat and follow the signposted track. The first bridge in that area was built to enable easier communication and transport of goods between Altea and Calpe. It’s not used anymore, but a newer construction can be seen just next to it. A little bit further is also a railway bridge and from time to time you can see trams passing just over your head. Soon, the ravine narrows so much that it’s not possible to continue. Go back the same way and finally, check Platja Mascarat if you haven’t done that before.

Interestingly, the name of this gorge and the bridge comes from the presence of masked bandits in the area who robbed the stagecoaches taking advantage of the difficulties of the passage.

You can also take up the challenge and climb Castell del Mascarat. You will have to scramble using ropes that are put on the trail for safety reasons but apparently it isn’t that tricky as it sounds. I haven’t done that due to lack of time but even though nowadays the castle is just a single wall covered with graffiti, the views are supposedly spectacular.

In Europe October 16, 2021

Flores: the remote piece of paradise in the Azores

Many people say that Flores Island is the most beautiful of the Azores. For me, every island was completely different and worth seeing but it’s true that when I am writing this post, I feel a big excitement! Flores means “Flowers”, and when it comes to nature, the island really lives up to its name. Waterfalls, volcanic lakes, cliffs. It’s all present here in the grandest form.

Together with tiny Corvo, Flores forms a Western group of the Azores archipelago. Diogo de Teive and his son João de Teive discovered the island in the late summer of 1452. As a reward, they received the concession of the sugar monopoly on Madeira.

Interestingly, Flores Island is the westernmost point of not only the Azores Archipelago but the whole European continent, even though together with Corvo they are part of the North American tectonic plate and not European plate like the rest of the Azores islands.

I visited Flores on my long-term trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work and lived “on the road”. I stayed in the archipelago for two months, between April – May, which isn’t a high season. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?

How long to stay?

I would say that 3-4 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Of course, it depends on the weather which is very unpredictable in this region. If you are unlucky, the interior of the island, especially the lakes may be covered by clouds for the entire duration of your stay. Check the weather frequently and always have a backup plan. It’s usually less cloudy closer to the coast.

The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situations in the Azores archipelago. I used it every day when I was there and I seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!

Where to stay?

Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered lovely host Valentina on her Airbnb listing. The place is located in Fazenda das Lajes, therefore a car is needed to get around. There is access to a fridge, washing machine, a well-equipped kitchen as well as free parking. The room was simple but nice with a shared bathroom and toilet. Fully recommended!

Getting around the island

As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1, or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course at a higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.

Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.

If you don’t have a driving license, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky. Alternatively, get in touch with one of the taxi drivers and negotiate a daily price. I can recommend Silvio Medina (+351 918 804 210), knowledgeable and English speaking.

Flores Island, the Azores — Poço Ribeira do Ferreiro

Tips

The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.

Santa Cruz das Flores

Island’s main town is located on the east coast with an airstrip that runs basically just next to the main street. There are a few sights worth seeing, all within walking distance. Plan around 3-4 hours to discover the area.

Start at Flores Museum which has documented the most significant moments in the island’s history from its discovery to the present day. Then, check out Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, which is a beautiful church standing just in front of the museum.

A little bit further on, towards the coast, you will find natural pools (Piscinas naturais de Santa Cruz das Flores). Good place for a swim if the weather is nice. Whale Factory (Fábrica da Baleia do Boqueirão) at the northern end of the town presents a rather depressing story of whale hunting, which luckily nowadays changed into whale watching.

Two viewpoints worth mentioning and within walking distance are Miradouro da Costa Nordeste and Miradouro do Monte das Cruzes.

Other sights

Poço Ribeira do Ferreiro – Without a doubt, it is a must-see on Flores Island. The “wow effect” is guaranteed and I had it every time I saw it, even from the distance. The waters of the various waterfalls come down from the steep cliff surrounded by intense Azorean vegetation. It’s especially breathtaking after heavy rains. The walk from the parking lot is easy and takes around 10 minutes.

Fajã Grande – famous for many imposing waterfalls bringing water from the high plateau to the coastal plain. Cascata do Poço do Bacalhau, located in the northern part of the village, is the most spectacular one. Natural pools formed by rocks in the ocean are perfect for those willing to cool down. Additionally, it’s a good hub for hiking trails that either start or end there.

Rocha dos Bordões – Geological formation formed by large columns of basalt. There is an official viewpoint and other small parking places along the road where you can pull over. Don’t miss the beautiful waterfall Cascata da Ribeira do Fundão.

Reserva Florestal Natural do Morro Alto e Pico da Se – Morro Alto is the highest point of the island of Flores, Azores. The trail can be either walked or taken by car. Other than that, it’s all about crater lakes: Negra and Comprida (best seen from Miradouro Lagoa Negra e Lagoa Comprida) as well as Branca and Seca. Simply nature at its best!

Caldeira do Mosteiro – The name comes from the fact that the village was located inside a volcanic crater. Today, it’s totally abandoned (its last inhabitant left in 1992). Mainly due to the lack of electric power and running water. There are plans to revitalize that area and adopt for rural tourism but so far it is simply a cool photo spot.

Caldeira Rasa e Funda – Another two amazing crater lakes. There are also two viewpoints worth mentioning: Miradouro Caldeira Rasa e Funda, located on the road just between the lakes, and Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda, a bit farther away.

Fajã de Lopo Vaz – Let me remind you that fajã is a flat surface near the sea, created from collapsing cliffs or lava flows. In this particular case, it’s hard to have any doubts about the origin. High cliffs are just in front of your eyes when you are approaching this place following the PRC04 hiking trail. Most probably, it was the first place inhabited on this island. There are a few houses but on the day of my visit, I didn’t meet anyone.

Ponta Delgada & Farol de Albarnaz – Small community that is located on the northern coast of the island with great views on Corvo. There is nothing much to do in the town itself but it’s worth visiting Ponta do Albernaz, where the lighthouse stands. Miradouro da Baía de Além is closeby and provides great panorama of Maria Vaz Islet. On the way out, pull over next to Pico do Meio Dia, another viewpoint located along the main road ER1-2.

Lagoa da Lomba – another small lake of volcanic origin, situated a bit more further away from all the others, however, it’s still worth visiting.

Viewpoints (Miradouro)

As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.

Miradouro da Costa Nordeste
Miradouro do Monte das Cruzes
Miradouro Lagoa Negra e Lagoa Comprida
Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda
Miradouro Arcos Ribeira da Cruz

Miradouro do Ilhéu Furado
Miradouro dos cedros
Miradouro da Pedrinha
Miradouro sobre o Porto e Baía de Ponta Delgada
Miradouro da Baía de Além
Miradouro do Portal
Miradouro do Lajedo
Miradouro Craveiro Lopes
Miradouro Das Pedras Brancas
Miradouro dos Frades

Hiking trails

PR01 FLO – Faja Grande – Ponta Delgada

I parked my rental car next to Igreja de Nossa Senhora Do Carmo. It was cloudy, but most importantly it didn’t rain and there was an optimistic forecast for the next couple of hours, including the sun! After about 1 – 1.5 km of moderate uphill walk, the ascent to Rocha do Risco started to be way steeper. The effort was rewarded though, as the views from the coastal path were simply great. Don’t forget to look back from time to time as Faja Grande looks magnificent from every perspective. On the other side, the view of small Corvo island will accompany you for the rest of the hike to Ponta Delgada. Depending on the time of the year, there could be some streams to cross and the path can get muddy, so be careful.

Once you reach asphalt road, turn left and continue down the road. It is worth taking a small detour to see both Miradouro da Baía de Além as well as Farol de Albarnaz, which is Europe’s westernmost lighthouse. From there, it’s an easy walk on the asphalt road to the final destination.

The track is linear and coming back to the starting point in Faja Grande might be complicated. If you don’t want to hike back, you can try your luck and hitchhike, which was my idea as well. However, I was waiting over an hour and the road was absolutely dead with no cars coming at all. In the end, I gave up and called a taxi.

PR02 FLO – Lajedo – Faja Grande

I have to say that on the day of the hike, I had really bad rainy weather which definitely influenced my final judgement. In many parts, the track was overgrown, muddy and slippery. In the first phase, there are good views of Rocha dos Bordoes, which is the best-known rock formation on the island.

Cross the village of Mosteiro and continue to one of the most interesting places along the trail – the village of Caldeira do Mosteiro. It was finally abandoned in 1992 due to the lack of electricity and running water. Currently, it seems that there are plans to renovate it and turn it into a place for rural tourism.

The next stops should be Miradouro do Portal and Fajãzinha but soon you will reach a sign indicating the detour to Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro. This is by no means, the most spectacular waterfall in the Azores, so don’t hesitate. Go there, but not only go. Sit down and spend some time. Admire.

The remaining distance is mainly through farmlands with plenty of small stone walls, very typical for the Azores. The grande finale is in Faja Grande, with also pretty grande waterfall – Poço do Bacalhau.

The logistics problems are similar to the ones at PR01. As it’s a linear track, I left the car in Faja Grande and took a taxi to Lajedo. If you have more time, try to hitchhike. Faja Grande is a very popular touristic place so it should be much easier to get a ride than in Ponta Delgada. My driver was Silvio Medina (+351 918 804 210). Nice and English speaking guy but the service itself is rather expensive.

PR03 FLO – Miradouro das Lagoas – Poço do Bacalhau

The track starts at one of the most popular lookouts on the island, between lakes Funda and Comprida. Continue along the right side of Comprida Lake towards Seca Lake and then turn left into a very muddy land road with views of Branca Lake on your right. Soon, you will reach a wide gravel road. Follow it until the turn to the left. Admire panoramic views of Fajã Grande as well as Fajãzinha and start your descent down the cliff until you reach the first one. Don’t forget to make a short detour to Poço do Bacalhau. Magnificent waterfall!

The official difficulty of the track is hard, mainly due to steep descent at the end, but I would still say it’s rather medium.

Again, it’s a linear track so if you leave your car at Miradouro das Lagoas, then you have the option of getting a taxi or hitchhiking back there.

PRC04 FLO – Fajã de Lopo Vaz

Park your car at the picnic area and start the descent towards the fajã. The views are good from the very beginning. Once down there, take your time to explore the black sand beach and walk around small houses. Turn right behind the first of them and then continue on a stone path towards the stony beach with huge cliffs and a waterfall just in front. If you are lucky, you will have all Fajã de Lopo Vaz to yourself and then it’s truly magical. In the end, return to the car the same way you came.

Fajã de Lopo Vaz is really a wonderful place.

Great Route of Flores

Challenging but extremely rewarding track for anyone interested in long-distance hikes. It goes from Santa Cruz das Flores to Ponta Delgada (21 km) and then from Ponta Delgada to Lajedo (26 km, along PR01 and PR02). The distance could be split into at least 2 or even 3 days with overnight stays in Ponta Delgada and Fajã Grande.

In Europe July 10, 2021

Santa Maria: the sunny island of the Azores

Santa Maria is the island of the firsts. It was the first island to be formed in the archipelago, the first to be discovered by the Portuguese explorers and Vila do Porto, the capital town, was also the first to be founded (in the 1430s).

Together with Sao Miguel, it forms the Eastern Group of the Azores archipelago. Dryer and warmer weather than on the neighbouring islands and the possibility to make use of it on the white sand beaches are the main advantages that attract tourists.

I visited Santa Maria on my long term trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work and had been living “on the road”. I stayed in the archipelago for two months, between April and May, which isn’t a high season. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?

How long to stay?

I would say that 2-3 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Of course, it depends on the weather which is very unpredictable in this region. Even though Santa Maria is located only a 20-30 minutes flight from Sao Miguel, I was really surprised by how different the landscape is, especially in its western part. You will immediately notice that the grass is much more yellowish in comparison to luscious and intense green on the other islands in the archipelago. In fact, Santa Maria receives less than half the precipitation of the islands in the Western Group: Flores and Corvo.

Nevertheless, you should still check the weather frequently and always have a backup plan. The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situations in the Azores archipelago. I used it every day when I was there and seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!

Where to stay?

Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered Azores Youth Hostel located in the centre of Vila do Porto. The room was simple but nice and had a private bathroom, however, there was no internet signal inside it. I don’t know if I was unlucky, or all the rooms are like that. WiFi seemed to be only available in the common area. It is a really big space with tables and comfortable sofas, but with other guests hanging around, could be not optimal enough for the ones who need silence to work remotely. Free parking is available on the streets nearby.

Getting around the island

As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1 or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course for the higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.

Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.

If you don’t have a driving licence, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky as in some areas traffic is really minimal.

Tips

The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.

Vila do Porto

The name simply means ‘town of the port’ and even though there isn’t much to do, it’s a good place to base yourself, mainly because of easy access to restaurants, bars and shops. There is basically one main street, perfect for an evening walk starting from the port and Fort de São Brás, all the way to Church of Santo Antão.

Other sights

Ribeira de Maloás – a short walk leads to the unique formation that occurred due to the contact of the sea with a basaltic lava flow of the Pico Alto Volcanic Complex. it resembles a similar place in Iceland, which is very popular among tourists and can be seen on many photographs online.

Santa Maria in the Azores — Ribeira de Maloás

Barreiro da Faneca – A semi-desert with a red landscape and even eucalyptus trees around. If Ribeira de Maloás looks like Iceland, then Barreiro da Faneca definitely awakes the memories from Australia. Breathtaking place!

Poço da Pedreira – the shape isn’t really natural as back then it was a quarry where a red stone was extracted and later on used in various constructions around the island. Currently, it’s a nice place for a picnic next to the pond or could be a starting point for the PRC03 hiking trail (loop).

Aveiro Cascade – the most beautiful waterfall on the island, surrounded by stunning vineyard terraces. It is 110 meters high.

Gonçalo Velho Lighthouse – good viewpoint to Maia and the cliffs.

santa maria azores — Gonçalo Velho Lighthouse

Praia Formosa – white sand beach in the Azores? Yes, and it’s quite big!

Anjos – Christopher Columbus disembarked in the village on his way back from the discovery of America what is commemorated by the statue. You, on the other hand, can start or finish PR01 SMA – Costa Norte hiking trail here.

Museu de Santa Maria in Santo Espirito – a great place to learn about the history of the island! It’s set in rural house from the 20th century. A knowledgeable guide explaining the exhibition is an additional benefit.

Viewpoints (Miradouro)

As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.

Miradouro de São Lourenço
Miradouro do Barreiro
Miradouro das Lagoinhas
Miradouro da Macela
Miradouro da Pedra Rija
Miradouro das Fontinhas
Farolim da Ponta do Malmerendo

Hiking trails

PR01 SMA – Costa Norte

The route starts in Bananeiras and soon turns right to descent all the way to Baia do Raposo. A magnificent place with a stream flowing into the ocean and waterfalls in the distance. It’s a kind of a detour to get there, so after a while, you have to climb back to the point where you left the main trail and then continue west until you reach Barreiro da Faneca. It’s a place of the last volcanic activity on the island and the combination of red clay and eucalyptus trees brought up my memories of Australia. From here, it’s really worth taking a detour to Ponta do Pinheiro, about 10-15 minutes each way. After rejoining the main trail, continue straight until another short detour option, this time to Monte Gordo. It’s about 10 minutes ascent, well worth it as well. From there the trail continues towards Ponta dos Frades and then finally ends in Anjos village, right next to the statue of Christopher Columbus.

PRC02 SMA – Pico Alto

The trail begins just next to the parking at Pico Alto. There, you may notice the memorial dedicated to Independent Air Flight 1851 that crashed into the mountain in 1989. Follow the steps going up to the highest point of the island. The view from there isn’t so impressive though, especially with all the antennas around. Return down and go into the forest where the trail stays for most of the remaining distance, but there are also good lookouts to the coast and caldeira.

PRC03 SMA – Entre a Serra e o Mar

Officially, the trails start near the church of Santa Barbara, but you may also begin at Poco da Pedreira, as did I. Cross through the centre of Santa Barbara, head towards Lagos, then in the direction of Norte and finally you will see the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Lurdes. You definitely should take a detour to a viewpoint over the bay of São Lourenço, which is the highlight of that trail. Return to the main path and continue along the bay until you are back to the starting point.

PR04 SMA – Santo Espirito – Maia

Very pleasant and picturesque trail. It’s a linear one, so I would recommend leaving the car at Maia and hitchhiking to Santo Espirito. Traffic is minimal, but be patient and sooner or later someone will go that way. Start near the church and if you have some extra time, drop by to the Ethnographic Museum of Santa Maria. A very informative place with an awesome guide presenting the history of the island. Next, follow the road passing by the ruin of old windmills and pastures. Continue towards the coast following the stream. Aveiro waterfall is just on the edge of the cliff, but it’s simply too close to be visible well. Follow the trail and after a while look back to admire that 80 meters high miracle of nature. Soon, the descent through vineyards starts to be quite steep so be careful. In Maia, it’s worth taking a detour to the base of Aveiro waterfall, just to see it again from a different (and according to me the best) angle. Lastly, turn back and continue along the asphalt road to the place where you parked your car.

Santa Maria Island in the Azores — Aveiro waterfall

PR05 SMA – Costa Sul

At the moment of writing this text, the trail was officially closed. I did walk it, having in mind that I would simply go back if there was something dangerous. In the end, I arrived at its end as it was perfectly fine all the way. The trail starts in Vila do Porto, next to the Fortress of Sao Brass, then it crosses the stream and continues through dried land to Padreira do Campo. It’s a geological site where marine fossils were found. Shortly after, your will pass by Figueiral Cave, which was created artificially to extract clay for the construction of local houses. Now, ahead of you, there is a steep descent towards Praiha, which is a good place for a break and swimming. The trail passes by the Fortress of Sao Jao Baptisa to finally end at Praia Formosa. Long and wide white sand beach in the Azores? Highly unique but yes, it really exists here so make use of it! Hitchhiking back to Vila do Porto should be relatively easy from here. If it’s not, walk up to the road EN1-2A which is much busier.

PR06 SMA – Areia Branca

This is a great and varied hike connecting Praia Formosa with Baía of São Lourenço. As it’s a linear way and I didn’t feel like doubling the distance, I left the car in Santa Barbara and hitchhiked from there to the turnoff to Praia Formosa. People in Santa Maria are really nice and usually, the first car stops and they try to help you out.

From Praia Formosa, the 6 kilometres ascent towards Pico Alto begins, which can be quite tough in places. After checking out the panorama from there, descent through the farmlands to Santa Barbara. Go through the town and then descent even more on a very steep path leading all the way to Baía of São Lourenço. The views here with all that vineyards in terraces looking like a chessboard are truly amazing. The trail ends next to the beach. After some chilling and drone flight, I hiked back to Santa Barbara (which unfortunately was quite a tiring way up) to pick up my car.

Great Route of Santa Maria

The mother of all the hiking trails on Santa Maria. The distance of 78 km is suggested to be covered in four stages, but honestly, I believe it could be done in three if you don’t mind walking more than 20 km a day. It starts in Vila do Porto and then goes basically around the whole island: Vila do Porto – Cordal – Norte – Bananeiras – Vila do Porto. Certainly, a great adventure which is on my list if I ever come back to this region of the world 🙂

In Europe July 8, 2021

São Jorge: the most spectacular fajãs in the Azores

With its high cliffs and typical fajãs extending into the ocean, the landscape of São Jorge is truly unique. The island is 54 km long and 6.9 km at its widest point. It belongs to the Central Group and forms the so-called “triangle” of the islands, together with Faial and Pico.

But what are fajãs and why are they so special? Those are small plains created by lava or landslides. More than 40 of them are on São Jorge, some of them accessible only on foot after a hard hike. You should definitely take the challenge and visit at least a few!

I visited São Jorge on my long-term trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work and lived “on the road”. I stayed in the archipelago for two months, between April – May, which isn’t a high season. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?

How long to stay?

I would say that 3-4 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Of course, it depends on the weather which is very unpredictable in this region. If you are unlucky, the interior of the island may be covered by clouds for the entire duration of your stay. Check the weather frequently and always have a backup plan. It’s usually less cloudy closer to the coast.

The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situations in the Azores archipelago. I used it every day when I was there and I seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!

Where to stay?

Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered Azores Dream, which is located in the centre of Velas. It’s a big house with a huge living room, well-equipped kitchen, and terrace on the roof with a magnificent view of Pico. The room was simple but nice with two shared bathrooms at the end of a hallway. Parking is available on the streets nearby. Fully recommended!

Getting around the island

As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1, or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course at a higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.

Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.

If you don’t have a driving license, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky.

Tips

The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.

Velas

Island’s main town is located on the south coast and it is an entry point for those arriving in São Jorge by ferry. There are a few sights worth seeing, all within walking distance. Plan around 4-6 hours to discover the area.

Start at Jardim da República which is a nice tiny park and don’t forget to have a look at the 18th-century Baroque building of Town Hall. Then continue towards the port, passing by Igreja Matriz de Velas (church) and Portão do Mar which is a part of the old defence wall.

Casa Museu Cunha da Silveira (museum) presents the history of the region in the form of thematic rooms. You will learn about agriculture, sea, carpentry, weaving, weights and measures as well as the history of the Cunha da Silveira family, which played an important role in the political and social life of the São Jorge island.

Walk along the coast until you reach Arco Natural de Velas. Besides the wonderful natural volcanic structure, your eye will be certainly caught by the panorama of Pico.

Lastly, walk behind the Chapel of Senhora Do Livramento and then continue uphill to the caldera of Morro Grande. Good panoramic views of Velas and the Atlantic Ocean are guaranteed. Instead of walking back the same way, I recommend descent inside the caldera and cross it to the other side in the ridge direction. Breathtaking views of Entre Morros Bay from there!

Other sights

Fajã dos Cubres and Fajã da Caldeira Santo Cristo – Both places are definitive must-sees that can be spotted in any tourist magazine promoting São Jorge. These are the only fajãs on the island with coastal lagoons, separated from the ocean by beach strands. Fajã da Caldeira Santo Cristo is especially famous for the cultivation of clams as well as good surfing conditions. It can be reached on foot from Fajã dos Cubres, where you can leave your car. Both places can be also approached following the challenging PR01 SJO hiking trail starting at Serra do Topo.

Sao Jorge Island in the Azores — Fajã da Caldeira Santo Cristo

Fajã de São João – small but very picturesque fajã with typical homes built in black stone. PR03 trail starts here but at the moment of writing this article, it was closed.

Topo – interestingly, it is a historical city, which was probably the first settlement on the island, founded in 1480 by the Flemish Willem Van der Haegen. Topo Islet, which is a popular nesting area for many birds species and the lighthouse, which provides decent views over that area, are major tourist sights.

Fajã da Ribeira da Areia – the highlight here is the beautiful arch known as Arco da Fajã da Ribeira d’Areia.

Fajã das Pontas – Small place filled with beautiful rural houses that can be reached following the PRC06 SJO hiking trail. The area is primarily used for the cultivation of vineyards, cornfields, and other vegetables.

Fajã da Penedia – Just next to Fajã das Pontas. It’s worth to check out the Chapel of Santa Filomena.

Fajã do Ouvidor – The place is thought to be created by lava flows from Pico Areeiro, which is located 3 km away. What attracts tourists, besides magnificent views, are many natural pools, the largest and most popular being the Poça de Simão Dias.

Sao Jorge, the Azores — Poça de Simão Dias

Farol dos Rosais – Inaugurated on 1 May 1958, but abandoned shortly after (in 1964), due to the seismic crisis of Rosais and the submarine eruption. Cliffs’ landslides that followed the earthquake of 1980, made it impossible to resume the operation.

Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes – Many trees, ponds, trails, and picnic areas. I highly recommend following the wide red gravel track leading up to a Pico da Velha, a hill at 493 metres above sea level with fabulous views of Mount Pico and Pico island, especially at sunset.

Moinho da Urzelina – One of two typical, colourful windmills, remaining in the parish of Urzelina, on the south coast of São Jorge island.

Pocas de Vicente Dias – Other natural pools created by natural lava flows, located about 2 kilometres from Calheta. The background of Pico and Faial Island is particularly appealing.

Viewpoints (Miradouro)

As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.

Miradouro da Faja Das Almas
Miradouro da Fajã dos Cubres
Miradouro da Fajã do Ouvidor
Miradouro do Pico da Velha
Miradouro Ferra Afonso
Vigia da Baleia
Miradouro do Canavial
Miradouro do Terreiro da Macela
Miradouro da Transversal

Hiking trails

PR01 SJO – Serra do Topo – Caldeira do Santo Cristo – Fajã dos Cubres

The trailhead in Serra do Topo is often covered by clouds but don’t let it discourage you. After an initial a few hundred meters, it goes all the way down to sea level and the further you go, the better the views should be. Be careful as it can be slippery when wet. At some point, there is the first viewpoint to Caldeira de Santo Cristo. Continue descent towards the fajã with the lake known for the presence of clams and different species of birds. The remaining distance to Fajã dos Cubres is mostly flat and it takes about 30-40 minutes to reach the church of Nossa Senhora de Lourdes at the end of the trail.

The problem with this hike is logistics. You can either arrange a taxi that will take you back to your car in Serra do Topo or simply walk back. The first option is expensive and the second one is physically brutal. Alternatively, I would recommend leaving your car at the parking in Fajã dos Cubres, walking from there to Caldeira de Santo Cristo and then continuing beyond as far as you want and can before turning back. In this way, you see the main sights and have more control over the total distance that you want to hike.

PR02 SJO – Serra do Topo – Fajã dos Vimes

The trail is nothing else but a big descent, so prepare your knees and don’t go when the ground is wet as it gets really slippery. If you leave your car at Serra do Topo, keep in mind that the way back won’t be easy. Alternatively, you can ask around and organize a taxi or try to hitchhike.

After initial descent, the trail crosses asphalt road and continues towards a water spring called Fonte de Agua Azeda. At the Fajã dos Vimes, there is a small coffee shop where you can treat yourself and have a rest.

PR03 SJO – Fajã de São João – Lourais – Fajã dos Vimes

This trail connects Fajã de São João with Fajã dos Vimes on the south coast of the island. There is quite a long ascent and descent involved with Lourais being the highest point. I departed from Fajã dos Vimes where I saw the notice saying that the track is temporarily closed. I decided to continue and turn back in case there is any sign of danger.

First, there was quite a long section of hiking on a dirt road among local houses but finally, I made it to the forest. Here, in some parts, the track started to be overgrown and quite messy with branches blocking the path (which could be the result of the storm). After approximately 4 kilometres, I decided to turn back. From a technical point of view, there wasn’t anything dangerous. However, my pace was quite slow and it was getting late. I wasn’t prepared to walk in the darkness plus it’s also not something that I like to do 🙂 In general, there are other much better hikes on the island, so I would recommend skipping this one until it officially reopens.

PR04 SJO – Pico do Pedro – Pico da Esperança – Fajã do Ouvidor

Even though it’s a hiking trail, it follows a wide gravel road and most people simply drive on it. As it runs along the central and highest terrain on the island, good weather and visibility are essential to fully enjoy it.

Start your adventure near Pico do Pedro and follow the road until Pico de Esperança (1053m). The detour to the highest point of Sao Jorge is a must and on a clear day, the views will leave you speechless. Lakes and panoramic views over the whole island and the neighbouring Pico. Doesn’t sound too bad, does it?

Return to the main road and pass by Pico do Areiro and Pico Pinheiro as well as Espigao, which is a bit further on. Soon, the trail turns right and descent to Fajã do Ouvidor. Here the quality of the road gets worse and some parts of it were extremely difficult to cross with such a small car like Smart. The suspension was way too low! Drive very slowly or instead of taking the right turn, continue straight towards road EN3 and head to Fajã do Ouvidor from there.

If you complete the drive following the original track, you will enter the village of Norte Grande right next to the church. From there it’s an easy drive on an asphalt road to the endpoint.

Is it better to hike or drive on this trail?

I would say that driving is just fine unless you are a big hiking enthusiast. I can imagine that following a long gravel road on foot for over 15 km can be tiring and slightly boring in some parts. The road descending to Norte Grande is bumpy but drivable and if you decide to do so, the driving and hiking tracks will be 100% the same, so you won’t miss any views. However you do it, it’s going to be a wonderful time in nature.

PRC05 SJO – Fajã de Além

It’s a less than 5 km long loop but better don’t underestimate it! Like most of the other hikes to fajãs, it involves a steep descent (500 meters elevation difference) and then a steep ascent back to the main road (obviously the same elevation difference). There is not much to see in the fajã itself, just rural houses and small agricultural fields with traditional crops. It’s all about the views that you can get on the way there. Tough but worth it.

PRC06 SJO – Norte Pequeno

The trail begins in Norte Pequeno and the best is to leave your car next to the church. From there, follow the asphalt road until the turnoff to the dirt one. Soon, the difficult descent starts, with nearly 500 metres of elevation difference. I did the trail in bad weather, with occasional showers and wet ground. It wasn’t the best idea as it was really slippery on the way down plus my shoes got totally soaked because of wet grass. But when the clouds are low, it creates a unique moody feeling which is beautiful in its own way. After the descent, the first buildings that you will see are Fajã do Mero. The wide gravel road continues until Fajã da Penedia where it’s worth having a short break to visit the Chapel of Santa Filomena. Continue on the main road until it splits. Here you should continue straight towards Fajã das Pontas. It’s a dead-end road so soon you will need to come back the same way. It’s a small fishing village which like all the fajãs that I visited on the trail on that day, was totally abandoned. But who would like to walk the area on a rainy day? Just me 🙂 It’s worth continuing for a while beyond the fajã as the views to the cliff from there are really magnificent. In the end, return the same way until the crossroad, turn left and follow the zigzag road ascending to the point where you started, nearby the church.

Chapel of Santa Filomena in Fajã da Penedia

PR09 SJO – Fajã dos Vimes – Fragueira – Portal

The hike can be started either in Fajã dos Vimes or in Portal. I chose the latter option to have a downhill part first. After the initial flat section, the trail started descending through the forest with some occasional views towards the ocean. At Fajã da Fragueira there was already a beautiful and clear panorama of a harsh landscape with vineyard terraces. From here the trail continues for the remaining distance to Fajã dos Vimes, where you can have a rest before returning uphill walk back to your car.

GR01 SJO – Great Route of São Jorge 01

The first part of the trail which crosses the entire island. It starts near the lighthouse of Ponta do Topo and goes through several highlights such as Fajã of São João, Fajã dos Vimes, Lagoa da Caldeira do Santo Cristo and Fajã dos Cubres. Unless you are a tough player, the distance of 40 km should be split into 2 days. Definitely a great option for hiking enthusiasts that are not afraid of hard uphill walks followed by equally hard descends.

GR01 SJO – Great Route of São Jorge 02

The second part of the ultimate trail across São Jorge, from Fajã dos Cubres to Ponta dos Rosais. Highlights include Pico da Esperança and the Central Plateau.

In Europe June 23, 2021

Faial: the place of the last volcanic eruption in the Azores

Faial Island has 21 km in length and 14 km at the maximum width and is the third most populous island of the Azores Archipelago with about 15.000 inhabitants. The island is part of the Central Group and also the so-called “Triangle” including two other islands: São Jorge and Pico. The power of nature reminded of itself on the 27th of September 1957, when a volcanic eruption in the Capelinhos kicked off and lasted for 13 months. As of today, it is the last event of this kind in the Azores.

I visited Faial Island on my 4 months trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work, spending 2 months in Madeira and 2 months in the Azores. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?

How long to stay?

I would say that 3 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Remember that the weather in the Azores can be unpredictable and if you are unlucky, Caldeira may be covered by clouds for the entire duration of your stay. Check the weather frequently and time your visit there in the best moment. If this is the case, try to stay close to the coast where it’s usually less cloudy.

The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situation in the Azores islands. I used it every day when I was there and I seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!

Where to stay?

Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered Banana Manor located in the centre of Horta. It’s a really big house with a huge living room and kitchen available for all guests. There is also a garden with chickens walking around which is a great place for breakfast or evening chill. The room was nice and spacious with two shared bathrooms at the end of a hallway. Parking is available on the streets nearby. Fully recommended!

Getting around the island

As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1 or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course for the higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.

Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.

If you don’t have a driving licence, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky. Alternatively, there are public buses but these are infrequent.

Tips

The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.

Horta

Horta is the biggest city on Faial Island and a regular meeting point for yachts and other vessels crossing the Atlantic Ocean. The buildings are full of charm, there are plenty of restaurants and bars but also great nature is accessible within walking distance. It’s my second favourite town in the Azores, just after Angra do Heroismo on Terceira Island. Here are a couple of places worth seeing:

Igreja da Nossa Senhora das Angústias (church) – it dates back to a hermitage founded by the island’s first settler, Joss van Hurtere and his wife, Beatriz de Macedo.

Convento de São Francisco & Horta Museum – housed in the old Jesuitical College, an imposing big-dimensioned building that remained unfinished, because the Jesuits were expelled from Portugal in 1760. There are several collections related to Faial history. Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário (church) is next door and can be visited as well.

Horta on Faial Island, the Azores — Convento de São Francisco & Horta Museum

Casa Memória Manuel de Arriaga – former residence of the 1st President of the Portuguese Republic, elected on August 24, 1911. Today, the place hosts the exhibition of photographs, documents and objects as well as the projection of films which give an insight into the history of the country.

Torre do Relógio – this clock tower was built between 1700 and 1720 together with the original Igreja Matriz, later destroyed by lightning. The initial mechanism of this only public clock dates from 1747.

Horta Harbour – important stop for yachts crossing the Atlantic Ocean. The walls and pavements are covered with colourful paintings created by visitors including the names of their vessels, crew members, nationality and the years they visited.

Other sights

Capelinhos – the volcanic eruption between 1957 and 1958 began in the sea and as a result, a small island was created that is now connected to Faial Island. In fact, as a result of the eruption, the total area of the island increased by about 2.4 km². Many houses were buried under ashes and more than half of Faial’s population emigrated to USA and Canada to escape the catastrophe. To learn more about the volcanic activity in the Azores, visit Capelinhos Volcano Interpretation Centre (entrance fee: 9 EUR). I recommend you to climb the ridge on the right side of the lighthouse for an amazing panoramic view.

Morro de Castelo Branco – is a 10,000-year-old rock formation, and a protected area due to the number of bird species that use it as a rookery. The PRC05 hiking trail passes by that area but you can also drive down and park very close to the rock.

Praia da Faja – Small village located on a fajã, which is the term used to define a small extension of land, located along the ocean, formed from rock debris or a volcanic delta from lava meeting the ocean. There is a small beach with dark sand and stones, quite popular with surfers. It can be reached with a car or following hiking trail PRC02.

Caldeira – this natural feature is definitely the highlight of Faial Island. It has a diameter of 1450 meters and a depth of 400 meters. The PRC04 hiking trail starts at the parking and goes around it. Highly recommended in good weather!

Praia Do Almoxarife – long stretch of black sand with bathing area, only 5km from the city of Horta. Great views over Pico Island guaranteed!

Ribeirinha – the name comes from the small river and valley that was occupied during the period of settlement. in Portuguese, Riberinha means small “ribeira”, or small river. A popular landmark is a lighthouse, which following the earthquake of 1998, was left in ruins. PRC09 is a great hike in the area, passing by the village, coast, lighthouse and several viewpoints. It is 8.3 km long and takes 2.5 hours to complete.

Viewpoints (Miradouro)

As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.

Miradouro do Cabeço das Pedras Negras
Miradouro da Ribeira Funda
Miradouro da Ribeira das Cabras
Miradouro de Nossa Senhora da Conceição
Miradouro Ponta Furada
Miradouro do Monte Carneiro

Hiking trails

PRC01 FAI – Cabeco do Canto

Short route with the start point on the road leading to Cabeco Verde. I left my car next to the information board and shortly I reached a lava cave which is apparently 55 meters deep, but views are quite limited due to trees. After passing on the left side of Algar do Caldeirao, soon I started climbing the stairs towards Cabeco do Canto. Quite a steep one! Once on top, I went around the volcanic cone (no big views here) and then went back following the same way.

Faial, the Azores — Aerial view to Algar do Caldeirao

PRC02 FAI – Rocha da Faja

The best is to park the car on the main road near the church and from there descent through the fields and forest towards Praia do Norte beach, checking out a very nice viewpoint on the way. The beach itself is a great place for a break to chill and watch the waves. The trail continues through the centre of the village on the asphalt road before it starts to climb up first following a dirt road and then through the forest, back to the starting point.

Faial Island, the Azores — Praia do Norte seen from the viewpoint

PRC04 FAI – Caldeira

The best and the most popular trail, going around the highlight of the island – Caldeira. From the parking, it’s just a few minutes to get the first glimpse of its interior. Caldeira is located in the central part of the island, therefore to fully enjoy the hike, make sure you go there in good weather. Otherwise, when the clouds roll in, there won’t be any views whatsoever.

PRC05 FAI – Rumo ao Morro de Castelo Branco

The natural reserve and geosite of Morro do Castelo Branco is a highlight of this short hike and at the same moment, one of the most beautiful places on the island. It is an effect of the volcanic eruption that happened thousands of years ago. Due to the number of bird species nesting there, climbing is forbidden. The rest of the trail is rather average and follows partly asphalt road and partly pastures.

PR03 FAI – Levada

After spending 2 months on Madeira Island, I knew very well what levada was. The memories of endless trails following water channels that transport water from one side of the island to the other was back immediately 🙂

If you start near Cabeco dos Trinta, there is an option for a short detour to its interior, which I highly recommend. Come back the same way and turn right. After a few minutes, you will see the levada. Its construction was finished in 1964 with the main purpose of supplying water for the production of hydroelectric energy. The end of the trail is at Alto do Chao and you would rather need to come back the same way to reach your car.

PR06 FAI – Dez Vulcoes

Long and demanding hike starting at the viewpoint of Caldeira. It follows PRC04 for around half of its distance when you need to turn right and head towards PR03 Levada and Cabeco dos Trinta. Further spots of the way are Cabeco do Fogo, Algar do Caldeirao and Cabeco do Canto. Finally, after crossing the road, there is a grand finale walking through the landscape formed by the volcanic ashes of Capelinhos. The eruption took place in 1957/1958. Close to the parking, there is the underground Interpretative Centre of the Vulcao dos Capelinhos, where you can learn about the volcanic nature of all the Azores islands as well as get to where the other famous volcanoes in the world are located. Entrance fee: 9 EUR.

PR07 FAI – Caminhos Velhos

Similar to PR06, it starts (or ends) at the parking next to Caldeira viewpoint. I would recommend starting here because then most of the walk will be downhill. Cross the tunnel, have a look at the interior of Caldeira and then continue on the zig-zag dirt road. When it merges with asphalt road, on the left side there will be Old Cabouco the Recreational Forest Reserve, a great place for a short break. Next, the trail goes towards Miradouro do Cabeço das Pedras Negras from where it joins PRC09 until arrival to Ribeirinha. Check out the ruing of the church of Sao Mateus and the ruins of the Lighthouse of Ribeirinha. Both places were destroyed by the earthquake that hit the area in 1998.

PRC08 FAI – Entre Montes

Easy circular hike close to Horta, with historical importance. The first underwater telegraphic cable was installed here in 1893 which played an important role during the war. The whole route provides great views all around the city as well as the fortress of Sao Sebastiao. At the top of Monte da Guia, there is a viewpoint and the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia. On the way back, you may want to visit the informative Museum of Whaling Industry (Museo da Baleia) or make a short detour to the remains of Forte da Greta. Finish the hike at Praia do Porto Pim.

PRC09 FAI – Ribeirinha

Start the trail in the centre of Ribeirinha village and then head towards the coast. Follow it until Porto da Boca da Ribeira and then start the ascent through the forest to the ruins of the Lighthouse of Ribeirinha. Continue through the forest to the viewpoint of Ribeirinha. When you reach an asphalt road, turn left and make a short detour to the ruins of the church of Sao Mateus. Both places, the church and the lighthouse were destroyed in the earthquake of 1998. From there, it’s time for a tiring ascent to Miradouro do Cabeço das Pedras Negras. Make a short break there and then start the descent back to Ribeirinha. The trail is highly overgrown in some parts but no worries, it’s still doable.

Coast to Coast

The ultimate hike through the island, starting at Ribeirinha and finishing in Capelinhos (or the other way around). It’s the combination of PR06 and PR07 and most probably the distance needs to be split into 2 days unless you are very fit and don’t mind taking a challenge to complete it in one very long day.

In Europe June 17, 2021

Corvo: the small jewel of the Azores

Corvo is the smallest island in the Azores archipelago (17.1 km²) and together with Flores, it forms the Western Group. Due to its isolation, it is probably the least visited one. Both islands were discovered around 1452 by the Portuguese explorer Diogo Teive on his return from Newfoundland.

Vila do Corvo is the only settlement on the island, located in a lava fajã which forms the island’s main level surface. It is a pretty little village with narrow streets, a port and an airport. The population is at the level of about 460 inhabitants, so yeah, everyone knows everyone!

How to get there?

Most of the travellers head to Corvo with organized boat tours, departing in the morning from Santa Cruz das Flores, spending around 4 hours on the island and then coming back. Boats usually pass next to the north coast of Flores Island giving an extra opportunity to see waterfalls and caves. The cost of such a trip, including a boat and taxi transfer to Caldeirao, is about 50 EUR.

If you are short on time, it is a good option but for me, 4 hours on Corvo didn’t seem to be enough. I asked for the possibility to go on one day and come back on the next, but unfortunately, May is still outside of the high season and there was simply no boat on the following day.

Therefore, I decided to choose a small ferry operated by Atlantico Line and organize it all by myself. The ferry departed at 9:30 from Santa Cruz das Flores and it took about 40-50 minutes to disembark in Vila do Corvo. The cost of a one-way ticket is 10 EUR.

It’s also possible to fly to Corvo with SATA Azores, however it’s more expensive and flights are infrequent.

Ferry, or rather a small boat heading to Corvo Island

How long to stay on the island?

I stayed on the island for 2 nights and it was great. I wasn’t in the hurry, had more than enough time to feel the island, do all hiking trails and simply wander around Vila do Corvo without any reason, enjoying beautiful weather and taking lots of pictures.

In the summer months (June-August), certainly, there are more connections between Flores and Corvo, so it should be much easier to tailor the trip to your needs from the timing perspective. For the most optimal experience, I recommend spending at least one night on the island.

Getting around

The only transportation that you need is the taxi up to the Caldeirao. Other than that, it is best just to walk around, both in Caldeirao itself as well as the way back to Vila do Corvo. To get a driver, ask in your accommodation or any small shop and friendly folks will certainly help you out and share the phone number.

Where to stay?

There are not too many options to choose from. The most popular seems to be Guest House Comodoro. This is exactly where I stayed, and I can fully recommend it. They have a decent breakfast included in the room rate, rooms are spacious, and the terrace is a nice place to have a rest observing slow village life. Internet connection is great too. Cost: 65 EUR / night.

Alternatives are Joe & Vera’s Vintage Place and The Pirates’ Nest. Both places have excellent reviews so they must be good too.

Tips

The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I travelled in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.

Hiking trails

There are only two official hiking trails on the island but both are great and can be done in one long day.

PRC02 – Caldeirao

It begins at the end of the road leading to Caldeira and from there you descent to the bottom of it. Follow counterclockwise direction looking out for next signalling pole (which in my opinion are quite poorly visible even in good weather). Your walk around the lake will be certainly observed by the rangers of this place – cows. But don’t worry, they aren’t dangerous as long as you don’t disturb them too much. Once the round is completed, you have to climb back up to the point where you started.

PR01 – Cara do Indio

This great trail connects Caldeirao with Vila do Corvo and I took it to come back to the village. The beginning is quite boring, as it follows asphalt road but after a while, it turns right and the landscape starts to look better and better. The trail passes next to water tanks, through pasture lands and stone walls, which are typical in the landscape of the Azores. Later, the view opens to Flores Island, well visible on the horizon. Once you reach the cliffs, watch out for Cara do Indio – a rock formation that resembles “the face of the Indian”.

Further on, there is a viewpoint overlooking Vila do Corvo with a nice bench to sit down and have a rest before the final phase. After passing through the historic centre of Vila do Corvo, you will get the chance to admire traditional windmills before the hike ends at Praia da Areia.

GPS, maps and leaflets of both hikes can be downloaded from the great website: https://trails.visitazores.com/

Other places to see

It is worth visiting the Church of Nossa Senhora dos Milagres (the island’s patron saint) as well as the Corvo Visitors’ Centre. Casa do Tempo Ecomuseu do Corvo is a great place to learn about the history of the island and watch interviews with local people (free of charge). A bit further up the road, there is also Corvo’s Wild Bird Interpretation Center but the entrance fee is 3 EUR and it’s a total waste of money.

In Europe March 12, 2021

Madeira: 2 months on the island in pandemic

Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal since 1976. In fact, it’s the name not only for the island but also for an entire archipelago which is formed by the Madeira Island (741 km²), Porto Santo (42.5 km²), the Desertas Islands (14.2 km²) and by the Selvagens Islands (3.6 km²).

The initial plan was to stay here for one month but now I already know that it will be rather two months. Because why not? After all, nothing is waiting for me in Poland and my remote work gives me great flexibility.

Why Madeira?

I was thinking about visiting this island for quite some time. The first attempt was during the long weekend in May 2018 but damn, I’m so happy I ended up in Croatia instead! And I don’t mean that Split blew my ass out but now I know that the idea of spending 4 days in a place like Madeira was ridiculous. It’s just way too short.

The temperatures here are about 20C all year long which makes it a very pleasant place to be, especially during the Polish winter. It seems that I left my country perfectly on time because a few days later, there was heavy snowfall for several days. My friends kept posting photos enjoying such conditions but seriously, I haven’t regretted my decision for even 1 second. Winter is not for me.

Of course, in pandemic times, the beauty of the place and weather are not the only relevant aspects when choosing your destination. Madeira has one of the easiest entry procedures in Europe which I will describe in the second part of the article.

Funchal, Madeira, Portugal — Funchal is the capital city of Madeira

Small complications…

With current flexibility to do my work from any place I can, the choice was simple. I bought my flights around 2 weeks prior to departure hoping for the restrictions to stay the same. Unfortunately, the news coming from Portugal were not optimistic and on Friday afternoon I got the message from my brother “I think you won’t fly to Madeira”. My flight was on Monday morning so yeah, I got pissed.

Some websites informed about total borders closure, some only about the land border with Spain. There was also information about the closure of the airport in Lisbon (where I had my transit). And another one about mandatory PCR tests even if you only transit in Lisbon.

In short – one big information chaos.

It is so easy to panic reading all those dramatic headlines. On the next day, I called the hotline of TAP Portugal airlines asking about flights status. It was planned as scheduled and apparently there was no need for a PCR test. Somehow the guy on the phone didn’t sound too convincing so I decided to keep digging on the official website and there it appeared – the info that all passengers with transit in Lisbon have to present negative PCR result BEFORE boarding the plane. The result shouldn’t be older than 48 hours and it had to be translated into English.

It was Saturday evening and my flight was on Monday morning from a different city. I had no choice but to take the 5 AM train to Warsaw on Sunday morning to do my test there. The results were supposed to be in less than 24 hours “in most of the cases”. After 4 PM I started checking the system every half an hour and at midnight I fell asleep. Woke up at 5 AM. No result. Took an Uber to the airport. No result. Luckily my connection was quite complicated: Warsaw – Geneva – Lisbon – Funchal and I only had to show the result in Geneva which gave me some extra time.

The result came 5 minutes before boarding the plane in Warsaw. Negative.

Flights

The simplest way to get to Madeira from Poland is to take a direct charter flight. Usually, it costs around 1000 – 1500 PLN for a return ticket. The flight is operated by Enter Air. I didn’t use that option which hadn’t been wise because it could have saved me a lot of trouble and money (PCR can be done for free upon arrival at the airport in Madeira). I have never used services provided by tour operators and also that time I searched my connections on old good SkyScanner.com.

There were two options available with transit either in Germany or in Switzerland and because of the lower price, I chose the latter one.

Regardless of where you are travelling from, the best is to limit transit to the absolute minimum. The rules and restrictions change way too often, so check the information on a regular basis. Some time ago, I heard about problems with transit through Germany. Non-German passengers flying on EasyJet from Madeira to Berlin were refused to board the plane.

Following the increase in infections in Poland during the Easter period, mainland Portugal imposed a compulsory quarantine on travellers, even those in transit. It means, that until the rules change, connection in Lisbon is no longer an option. This is why a charter flight seems to be the safest way of getting to Madeira.

Madeira, Portugal — Madeira is home to the highest *cliff* in Europe – Cabo Girao

Free COVID-19 tests

As on most of the isolated islands, also in Madeira COVID-19 is under control. To keep it that way, the local government invests in PCR tests that are provided for free to all arriving passengers (if they haven’t already done the test prior to departure in their home countries). PCR tests aren’t cheap, so it’s a really significant advantage for your travel budget.

After reclaiming my luggage, I was greeted by the staff in protective clothing asking if I had my test already done or not. Based on your answer, you will be either directed to the right, or to the left line. I followed the right one as I had my test done and I also uploaded it already to the website www.madeirasafe.com. Every tourist has to register there to obtain a QR code which will be scanned at the exit from the terminal. The procedures went extremely smooth, I was given a free bottle of water and there I was. Officially in Madeira.

If you don’t have your tests results, simply follow the left blue line and you will end up in a testing station. The samples are taken both from your nose and throat. The results are supposed to be available in 12 hours but usually, it’s shorter than that. Of course, you can proceed to your accommodation but other than that you are officially on quarantine and you mustn’t leave your room.

Road leading to Pico do Areiro — Road leading to Pico do Arieiro

Restrictions

Rules with masks are exactly the same as in most of the other places in the world. They have to be worn in all public areas. In general, the rule is followed, especially in Funchal. In other, smaller cities it’s rather more relaxed. There is no need to wear a mask on hiking trails or on the beaches.

Hand sanitizers are widely available and I have never came across one that was empty.

Curfew is in place from 7 PM until 5 AM in the weekdays and from 6 PM until 5 AM on the weekends. Be aware that most of the places close 1 hour before that. If you get hungry after that, your only option would be takeaway delivered by BringEat, Uber Eats or Glovo. It’s not allowed to be outside during curfew hours and the only exception is the way to and from the airport. The streets in Funchal really get empty so it’s not a joke and you should also take is seriously.

Described restrictions were in place during my stay on the island between February and March 2021.

Accommodation

I found my place to stay on Airbnb and it seems to be the best way. Staying for a longer period of time gives you an additional argument at hand to negotiate a good price. I went to a centrally located room hosted by Residencial. There is really fast internet which was especially important to me due to remote work. All the sights around city centre are within walking distance. The only negatives are quite thin walls and terrace which tends to be occupied by loud guests.

After all the mess with COVID-19 and depressing winter weather in Poland, Madeira turned out to be a really nice place to spend a couple of weeks sightseeing and working remotely. If you have any questions about the island, feel free to ask in the comments!

In Australia January 18, 2021

Whitsunday Islands: 1-day itinerary with Big Fury

There are 74 islands in the Whitsunday archipelago which lies between the northeast coast of Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef. Most of the islands are uninhabited while the most popular among tourists is definitely Whitsunday Island. Airlie Beach is the major gateway, where you can book lots of tours and activities. For me, it wasn’t any different. I arrived in the early morning and made my way directly to the meeting point of my tour.

I spent a lot of time browsing different boat tours and looking for the best quality to price ratio. Overnight yachts tours sound to be an amazing experience, however, it’s Australia and such attractions aren’t cheap. That’s why I chose 1-day tour on an open-air speedboat operated by Big Fury. The standard price is 170 AUD but you can usually find a slightly better price on BookMe.

What to bring?

You definitely don’t need much. Pack your swimwear, towel, sunscreen, sunglasses and some warmer hoodie or jacket just in case. There isn’t too much walking involved so don’t worry about your shoes either.

1-day itinerary

The departure time of the tour was at 10 AM and a few minutes before we were greeted by the staff. They checked passengers list and gave us kind of swimsuits that we were supposed to wear while snorkelling. Fins and goggles were available on the deck as well.

We quickly gained speed and soon reached the first spot for snorkelling. Not the best though! Corals and fish were nice but nothing extraordinary. The worst was the temperature of the water was really cold and after a few minutes, I wasn’t interested in swimming but simply wanted to warm up on the deck. The swimsuits were rather designed to protect from the stingers (which wasn’t a problem anyway at this time of the year) rather than keep me warm.

The next stop was on the famous Whitehaven Beach which stretches for 7 kilometres. It is considered to be one of the best in the world, mainly due to its bright white sands, which consist of 98% pure silica. The sand on Whitehaven Beach does not retain heat making it comfortable to walk barefoot on a hot day.

Whitsunday Islands in Australia — Not too bad colours, right?

The whole area is protected as a national park

After some chillout time here, it was time for lunch. It came in the form of a buffet in a shaded spot and was really delicious! The smell and noise attracted goannas that came out of the bush to look for an easy meal. Goannas are some species of lizards of the genus Varanus found in Australia and Southeast Asia.

Goanna at Whitesunday Islands — There are plenty of goannas around the shaded lunch spot

Looking for food leftovers that was dropped by humans

There was still some time left until the departure so I went for a short walk towards South Whitehaven Beach Lookout. The view is really good and there were almost no other people!
The last stop was on the other side of Whitehaven Island to see the panorama from the famous Hill Inlet Lookout. It’s one of the best known, postcard style views from Australia with breathtaking swirling sands and unique colour of the water. The distance to walk is 1.3 km (return). Definitely worth seeing, even though the place is usually very crowded as every tour stops here.

Hill Inlet on Whitsunday Islands — Classic view from the Hill Inlet Lookout…

…and the other side with amazing white sands

On the way back to the port, the captain reduced the speed couple of times, looking around for humpback whales. There wasn’t any sign of one at first but then one of the passengers spotted one in the distance. Unfortunately, it was quite far away from the boat and I was able to take a picture with maximum zoom, but the quality is far from perfect. Still, better than nothing!

Humpback whale around Whitsunday Islands — Humpback whale making a splash

We were back in the marina about 5 PM and I was really full of positive emotions after a lovely day. Sure, I could easily imagine cruising around the islands for additional days, exploring them more in detail and sleeping on a campsite or on the deck. However, considering the costs, a 1-day trip with Big Fury is a great deal for backpackers and budget travellers.

In Australia January 1, 2021

Kosciuszko National Park: Australia’s highest mountain and Yarrangobilly Caves

The park is named after Mount Kosciuszko, which at 2,228 metres is Australia’s highest mountain. The best way to discover the area is to go for a walk. Nature enthusiasts will be rewarded with alpine views, crystal clear streams, glacial lakes and historic huts.

At the northern end of the national park are the Yarrangobilly Caves. The limestone dates back 440 million years. An impressive place to discover with an extra opportunity to relax in a naturally heated thermal pool. Don’t forget your swimmers!

During winter, it’s one of the best places in the country for skiing. All New South Wales alpine resorts are within Kosciuszko National Park: Perisher Blue, Charlotte Pass, Thredbo and Mt Selwyn.

Yarrangobilly Caves and Thermal Pool

I made my first stop at Yarrangobilly Caves Visitor Centre to purchase 24 hours pass to the National Park. It costs $17 per vehicle per day (24hrs) and includes free entrance to some of the self-guided caves in the area. I was advised to visit South Glory Cave first and that was exactly what I did.

Yarrangobilly’s karst landscapes were created from a belt of limestone laid down about 440 million years ago. Karst environments preserve evidence of climate change, floods, droughts, fires, animal and human activity. All of that makes it an incredible place to discover.

South Glory Cave is the largest one in the Yarrangobilly area of Kosciuszko National Park. I drove past the visitor centre following the signs to the parking. All that area can be easily accessed with a 2WD vehicle. From there, the cave is accessed along a 500m gravel track, leading to Glory Arch. Yarrangobilly river flows just down the escarpment.

The fact that the tour is self-guided makes it much more interesting than just following a group. I was inside completely alone and it took me around half an hour to go through and read information signs. Even though there are sensor lights that switch on as you approach, having your own flashlight is essential. Moreover, the average temperature in this cave is around 10 C so bring a hoodie or a jacket.

After visiting South Glory Cave, it’s a good idea to hike the Castle Cave Walk with the views to limestone cliffs and Mill Creek Gorge. and on to Castle Cave. The track is 3.2 km return and shouldn’t take you more than an hour. Detailed map of the track can be found on the website of NSW National Parks.

If one short track is not enough, head back towards the parking and join Yarrangobilly River Walk. It’s an easy 3 km loop beside the river with an interesting stop on the way – Thermal Pool. Water temperature is on a constant level of 27C so bring your swimsuit and towel! It was nice to jump in and refresh my body, especially after a visit in a cold and damp cave. Detailed map of the track can be found on the website of NSW National Parks.

Glory Farm Walk is a short extension to the thermal pool walk. It’s 2.8 km long (return hike) and follows Yarrangobilly River to the site of Henry Harris’s Glory Hole Farm which provided meat and vegetables for the Kiandra miners in the late 1800s.

There are more caves in the area: Jillabenan Cave, Jersey Cave and North Glory Cave. The first one can be visited on a guided tour. It’s the smallest of the Yarrangobilly Caves with the path through it being 73m long. I didn’t join the tour as visiting South Glory Cave fulfilled all my expectations towards stalagmites and stalactites 🙂 Jersey Cave and North Glory Cave are closed until further notice.

After longer than expected visit in Yarrangobilly Caves, it was time to move on toward Thredbo, which was over 2 hours away.

Mount Kosciuszko Summit (Main Range Walk)

There is not much to do in Thredbo outside of ski season. I had a short walk but then simply made my way to Ngarigo campground which is located along Alpine Way. The place isn’t big but there was only one more campervan parked. I have no idea what the temperature in the night was, but it was damn cold! Definitely the coldest night in Australia during my trip. I used everything I could: blankets, sleeping bag and hoodie.

I woke up at dawn I set off without breakfast. It was the first time that I had to turn on the heating as the front windshield got icy! The way to the parking at the end of Kosciuszko Road took me about 1 hour. After breakfast, I packed my backpack and followed the Summit Track. The distance to the summit is 9.3 km (about 2 hours) but I had the plan to take another path on the way back, completing the loop called the Main Range Walk. It’s a 22 km loop that in theory should take between 7-9 hours but in my case, it was rather closer to 5-6 hours.

The morning was very cold but the sun was rising higher and higher warming up the air. Small streams along the track got frozen and there was snow clearly visible in the upper parts of the mountains. I definitely didn’t expect to see it in Australia!

Glacier-carved landscape in Kosciuszko National Park

Kosciuszko National Park — Mornings in late May can be quite cold!

I crossed Snowy River and then, 6 km from the beginning of the track, I passed Seaman’s Hut which is a small safe haven if the weather turns. Rawson Pass is another 1.7 km away. Here it was the time to turn right and make the final ascent to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko.

You may wonder, where the name comes from?

It was given by Polish explorer Count Pawel Edmund Strzelecki who was the first to summit the peak in 1840. It refers to Polish hero General Tadeusz Kosciuszko, a prominent figure in the American revolution. Apparently, the highest Australian mountain looks similar to the sight in which General Kosciuszko was buried.

From the distance, the mountain doesn’t look impressive at all. But in sunny weather, the views from 2228 m a.s.l. are decent enough to justify the effort 🙂 Honestly, the landscape here doesn’t feel like Australia at all. Or maybe I just got used to the desert on one side and the ocean on the other?

Continuing the hike along the Main Range Track

I started the descent following the same way as before but shortly after I turned left on the track leading towards Muellers Pass. Then, it continues to Northcote Pass which is just next to Albina Lake. There is an opportunity of a short detour to Blue Lake which is definitely worth doing.

I’m not sure what are the rules of freedom camping in Kosciuszko National Park but I saw two tents pitched on the meadows. Certainly, the nights are cold, but what a great location! If you are a camping enthusiast, consider doing the same.

After crossing the Carruthers Creek, the track goes to the meeting point of Club Lake Creek and Snowy River. From here, the last uphill section leads back to the parking lot.

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Climbing Ifach Rock

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Santa Cruz das Flores

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Vila do Porto

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Velas

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Horta

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Yarrangobilly Caves and Thermal Pool

Mount Kosciuszko Summit (Main Range Walk)

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