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Ubon Ratchathani is the largest city in Thailand’s Isan region. The city is located in the Sankamphaeng Range on the Mekong River, which forms the natural border between Thailand and Laos. Ubon Ratchathani is famed for its historic Buddhist temples and the vibrant Thai culture that dominates the city’s lifestyle.

The city dates back to at least the 13th century when it was an important trading port in the Siam Empire. It was founded by King U-Thong who reigned from 1238 to 1270. Ubon Ratchathani was an important center for trade between the East and West, and the city was known for its abundant wealth and culture. As the centuries passed, Ubon Ratchathani grew and prospered. A palace was built in 1791 within the city walls. In the early 20th century, Ubon Ratchathani was declared a province in Thailand, and it developed into an important center of culture and education.

Today, Ubon Ratchathani is best known for its annual candle and lantern festival, which is held in July. During this festival, the people of Ubon light hundreds of floating paper lanterns on the Mekong River. This is a centuries-old tradition and one of the most spectacularly beautiful cultural events in Thailand.

In addition, the city is a great base for those wanting to explore surrounding nature, e.g. Kaeng Tana National Park and Pha Taem National Park.

How to get there?

Ubon Ratchathani can be reached by air, train, or bus from Bangkok. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon which take less than an hour. Train and buses are significantly cheaper but the travel time takes between 9 – 11 hours. My preference is the sleeping train which has the best comfort-to-price ratio but the arrival is very early in the morning, so you will need to hang around the city a few hours before checking in to the hotel.

You may also check your connections at 123Go.Asia

When to go?

The city can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

I visited this region in May and unfortunately, it wasn’t the best experience as it was scorching hot and most of the waterfalls dried up.

Where to stay?

I stayed at Phadaeng Hotel and can’t say anything bad about it. It’s nicely located within walking distance of most of the sights, there is a big parking lot and the rooms are clean and spacious.

If you prefer to stay out of town, closer to the Mekong River and national park, I recommend Khong Chiam 2 Hotel in the small town with the same name: Khong Chiam.

What to see?

Wat Phra That Nong Bua

It is one of the most famous and important temples of Ubon Ratchathani Province. The highlight is the gold and white Sri Maha Pho Chedi which was built in 1956 to honor 2500 years of Buddhism and resembles the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India.

Ubon Ratchathani National Museum

In my opinion, the most interesting museum in the region, with ten exhibition rooms organized around two courtyards. It was built in 1918 in Western Colonial architecture to be used as the City Hall. The museum was opened in 1989. The exhibition presents different historic periods as well as textiles, folk music, handicraft, household utensils, and objects related to Buddhism Everything is well explained in English. The entrance ticket costs 100 THB for foreigners.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Wat Maha Wanaram

The temple was established in 1807 by the second ruler of the city and changed its name to Wat Maha Wanaram in 1941. It’s considered to be the principal temple in Ubon Ratchathani, containing one of the province’s most sacred Buddha images – Phrachao Yai In Paeng. It’s a popular place for locals to come over and make merits.

Wat Thung Si Mueang

The temple was constructed during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851) to house a replica of Buddha’s footprint. The most photogenic part is Ho Trai, a small wooden hall used to preserve Buddhist scriptures. It was built in the middle of a pond to keep termites and other insects away.

Thung Sri Mueang

Very nice public park with lots of people jogging in the evening. The highlight of the park is a giant candle sculpture. It is 22 meters high and was completed in 2000.

Thung Sri Muang Night Market

Many different kinds of Thai food with multiple tables to sit and eat. There are also quite a few stalls with Vietnamese dishes.

Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram

Quite a big temple just off the main road. It was built in 1855 during the reign of King Rama IV.

Other sights in the region

Wat Nong Pah Pong

One of the area’s best-known forest monasteries was established by the late Ajahn Chah. Before he died in 1992, he established nearly 100 branch monasteries with thousands of followers, including Western monks who set up branches in Europe and elsewhere. On the monastery grounds, apart from the temple and the golden chedi with Ajahn Chah relics, there is also a museum with exhibits including a life-like statue of Ajahn Chah, his robes and other memorabilia, archaeological finds, Buddhist art, and crafts.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Nong Pah Pong
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Nong Pah Pong

Wat Pah Nanachat

It was established in 1975 by Ajahn Chah as a branch monastery of Wat Nong Pah Pong. An American disciple, Ajahn Sumedho, was invited to lead the community as the first abbot. The monastery aims at providing English-speaking people with the opportunity to train and practice the simple and peaceful lifestyle that the Buddha taught his monks in the forests over 2500 years ago.

Khong Chiam

The main attractions of the town are the two rivers that run through it: the Mun with its blue water and the Mekong which is kind of brownish. You will get the best views from Two-colored River View Point. At the time of my visit in May, I didn’t see much of a difference in color between the two rivers.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Two-colored River View Point
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
There are many little islands on the Mekong River
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Aerial view of two Mekong River and Mun River

Other than that, you may want to visit Wat Tham Khuha Sawan. There are great views over the Mekong River and Laos. Additionally, you can admire a huge gong. It’s free to visit.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Wat Sirindhorn Wararam

The temple is famous for some elements that glow in the dark, especially the floor outside and the symbol of a tree on one of its walls. The best time to see the lights is shortly before sunset. I arrived when it was already completely dark and the temple didn’t impress me that much.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam

Saen Tor Beach

Huge lake with nice and calm beaches, perfect to relax after a day full of sightseeing. You may spot some water buffaloes around.

Kaeng Tana National Park

I had some trouble finding the entrance, so don’t rely fully on Google Maps. If you are driving on Road 2222, take a turn off towards Pak Mun Dam and then continue into the park.

First I walked over the Kaeng Tana Bridge to Don Tana Island. It’s the longest suspension bridge in the Northeast Region of Thailand. The views were nice but there were armies of insane mosquitos in the forest on the other side of the bridge.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Kaeng Tana Bridge to Don Tana Island
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
The Mun River

Then, I parked the car next to the Visitor Center and did a short hike to the viewpoint. On the way, there were some signs indicating the cave but it was just a hole in the rock rather than the cave. Luckily, while coming back to the main track, I saw a small snake.

The walk to the viewpoint was on the open savannah-style terrain so it was unbelievably hot. The track was supposed to be a loop but due to lack of hat and poor signage, I decided to come back the same way.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Pha Phueng Viewpoint
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Panoramic view over the Mun River

From the parking area, you may also check out a nice viewpoint from which you can see rapids on the Mun River. Be extremely careful when hopping around the huge rocks.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Rapids on the Mun River

Tat Ton Waterfall is located on the opposite side of Kaen Tana National Park but at the time of my visit (May 2023) it was closed for renovation.

The entrance ticket to the national park for foreigners costs 100 THB.

Pha Taem National Park

One of my favorite national parks in Thailand is located just next to the impressive Mekong River. Pha Taem is named after a large cliff where besides the panoramic views, you can also admire ancient rock paintings. Entry to the park for one day costs 400 THB for foreigners.

The first turn-off when driving from Khong Chiam takes you to Sao Chaliang. It is a natural monolith formed by water and wind erosion that looks like mushrooms. There are visible remains of shells, gravel, and sand in the rock, therefore, it is assumed that about a million years ago, this area used to be the sea. The Meak Mai Sai Than Hin Taek Nature Trail is comprised of 3 pathways. The first trail is 350 meters long, the second one has 1 kilometer and the third one is 2.7 kilometers. I highly recommend doing the longest loop as the views are really beautiful.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang in Pha Taem National Park

Further down the road is Pha Taem Cliff with incredible views over the Mekong River, a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Due to its geographical location to the east, the area is also known as the best place to experience the first rays of the sun in the country.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Pha Taem Cliff

The hiking trail takes you first down the cliff to see ancient prehistoric paintings that were first discovered in 1981. They were made in various styles and techniques and present people, animals (elephant, turtle, catfish, and freshwater stingray), utensils, symbols, and human palms. The paintings are dated to be approximately 3,000 – 2,500 years old. Then you will climb up and return to the parking lot following the path at the top of the cliff. The total distance is nearly 5 kilometres but it is worth it!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Ancient prehistoric paintings with symbols of human palms

Another turn-off from Road 2112 takes you to Soi Sawan Waterfall. From the parking, there is a short walk down to the falls. It was a beautiful sight even though there was very little water in May. From the parking area, you also have the option for a longer hike to Pha Chek Cliff and Pha Moei Cliff. The panorama of the Mekong River from there is simply breathtaking. The distance is about 4.5 km one way which should take 1.5 – 2h to complete.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Soi Sawan Waterfall

Come back to the main road and continue further north. Saeng Chan Waterfall is another interesting place to stop by and quite unusual because the water runs through the hole in the sandstone rock. Take your time to absorb the atmosphere of this place!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The view of the Mekong River from the cliffs

Nearby, there is Thung Na Mueang Waterfall and if you continue following the road along the Mekong River, you will reach its end and the easternmost point of Thailand.

The next two attractions are a bit more difficult to reach. The road up to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is narrow and there are specific times when at which you can go up and down. The schedule as of April 2023 looked as follows:

Time of going up: 04:30 – 06:30, 10:30 – 13:00, 16:00 – 18:00

Time of going down: 07:30 – 09:30, 14:00 -15:00, 19:00 – 19:30

The road seems to be closed during the month of May. Check their website for the most recent information.

The cliff is an easy 10 minutes walk from the car park. Great views over the Mekong and into the mountains of Laos. Consider camping overnight to see the magnificent sunrise! Huai Phok Waterfall is nearby.

On the way to Pha Chana Dai, don’t forget to stop at Twin Pillars which is another sandstone formation shaped like a mushroom. Very photogenic.

Sao Chaliang Yai

Further north, following road 2112, you will notice the turn-off to Sao Chaliang Yai. It is okayish to have a quick look if you have time but there is nothing much except the giant rock pillar, similar to the ones seen in other locations.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai

Pha Chan

The cliff on the Mekong River that goes vertically down on both sides of the river is a very impressive and wonderful place. Park your car at the end of the road and walk down to the riverside. Villagers who come to fish in this area have made a wooden ladder to climb down, in case you want to add some adventure vibe to your visit.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Aerial view of Pha Chan
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Pha Chan

Sam Phan Bok

An excellent landscape with sandstones that have been eroded by the stream of the Mekong River. People also call it the “Grand Canyon of Thailand”. It’s a seasonal attraction so plan your visit in the dry season. Jumping on the back of the pickup truck costs 200 THB per person and I highly recommend it, as walking all the way down on the rocks in that scorching weather can be deadly. You can also hire a guide that will show you some unique rock formations and take pictures of you. More expensive option for exploration includes not only the pickup truck to the Mekong riverbank but also a boat ride.

Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Aerial view of Sam Phan Bok
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
You can get a ride down the riverbank
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
“Mickey Mouse” rock formation
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Unique rocks can be best seen in the dry season

Lai Son and Nam Du are both quite undeveloped islands located in Kien Giang Province. Both places offer a relaxing environment for visitors looking to enjoy nature and the sea. The number of foreign visitors is still minimal but the islands are getting more and more popular among domestic tourists and it is said that future development in terms of tourism is inevitable. I spent three days traveling around Lai Son and Nam Du at the end of 2022. Was it worth it?

How to get there?

I bought my ferry tickets on the route Rach Gia – Lai Son – Nam Du – Rach Gia with Superdong. The islands aren’t as popular as Phu Quoc so there might be just one ferry per day so be careful not to miss it. The whole trip was really smooth and the quality was good.

They have an office in Rach Gia at the following address:

No. 01 Lot 4, 3/2 Street, Vinh Thanh Van Ward, Rach Gia City, Kien Giang Province.
14 Tu Do Street, Vinh Thanh Ward, Rach Gia
Tel: (0297) 3877 742
Email: rachgia.sales@superdong.com.vn

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Travelling by Superdong ferry

You may also check connections with two other companies:  Phu Quoc Express Boat and Ngoc Thanh.

Rach Gia is a port city on the mainland, in the western Mekong Delta region. It can be reached by bus or plane from Ho Chi Minh City. You may check possible connections at 12GoAsia.

When to go?

The dry season in that area starts from December to April. The sea is calm and you will get a lot of sunshine. I was there at the beginning of November and the weather was far from optimal, with quite a lot of rain and clouds.

Where to stay?

Lai Son

Gia An Homestay (Gia An Nha Nghi) was a cheap and comfortable place to stay. It cost me 265.000 VND and I was also able to rent a semi-automatic motorbike there. The room was clean and had air conditioning.

Nam Du

Nam Du View Guesthouse cost about 300.000 VND but it definitely wasn’t the place I would like to come back to. It had a nice terrace just at the seaside and if you went to the market to buy some seafood, the owner could cook it for you there. Unfortunately, it was super loud in the evening when a group of men decided to hang out, and of course as always on such an occasion in Vietnam, there was a karaoke until late hours. Of course, it happens in many places so you may be luckier than me 🙂 The noise was actually the only problem. The owner rents motorbikes too and he gave me a ride back to the port which was nice.

Rach Gia

For those who need to spend the night in Rach Gia before boarding the ferry, I recommend Kiet Hong Hotel. It cost only 180.000 VND, the room was really spacious and the port is just on the other side of the road. You can also leave your motorbike at their parking for a small extra fee.

How to get around?

On both islands, the best is to rent a motorbike and you can easily do so in your accommodation. They will either have one for rent or know someone who has 🙂 Usually, it costs about 150.000 – 200.000 VND per day.

If you travel around Vietnam on your own motorbike, it doesn’t really make sense to transport it on Superdong Ferry as the cost of transfer exceeds the rental fee on the islands. It’s better to leave it at the secure parking at some hotel in Rach Gia.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Fishermen vessels around Lai Son

What to do on Lai Son Island?

Lai Son is located about 50 km southwest of Rach Gia. It is very undeveloped and I really had no idea what to expect. It was definitely a unique experience to be the only foreigner there at that time but all the Vietnamese people were very friendly and I received a lot of smiles. There is just a single road around the island connecting a handful of communities and remote beaches.

From the pier, it was only a short work to my accommodation at Gia An Homestay. Unfortunately, it started to rain just after I checked in and rented a motorbike. That’s why I simply decided to take a nap and wait for a bit better conditions to start my ride.

About noon the weather improved, so I hit the road. I decided to go around the island first and then cross its interior following the road through the mountains. The first stop was at Lăng Ông Nam Hải which is a mausoleum of General Nam Hai overlooking the sea and fishing village.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Lang Ong Nam Hai, Lai Son
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Walking through the fishing village
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The small bay next to the fishermen’s village

In the northern part of the island, there are some beaches such as Khu Du Lịch Bãi Đá or Ông Rùa Hòn Sơn with a kitschy statue of a turtle that everyone wants to take a selfie with. People never stop surprising me. The beaches are small and narrow and were full of rubbish. Definitely not a place for peaceful relaxing. Nearby the Bai Bac village, there is a scenic viewpoint called Đỉnh Núi Ông Rồng, which can be reached in about 30 minutes on foot.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Approaching beaches on the north coast
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The statue of the turtle is a popular selfie spot…

Further, on the east coast is Bãi Bàng Beach, which is probably the best on the island for relaxing, although rubbish is still a big problem there.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Bai Bang Beach

If you feel like hiking and the weather is good, you may climb Ma Thien Lanh for a panoramic view of the island and the sea. I wouldn’t do it after it rained though as the rocks get very slippery. You can shorten the way by hiring a motorbike rider to take you up to Pho Tinh Pagoda, and then it’s less than an hour to the top. It’s quite steep but there are ropes to help you out.

I arrived back at the pier, finishing the loop and after a short break, I follow the road through the interior of the Lai Son from the south to the north and back. It was a pleasant ride on the forested hills with panoramic views of the villages on both ends.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The road through the interior of Lai Son
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Scenic views around the hills in the central part of the island

At the end of the day, I just walked around the pier and had dinner in one of many seafood restaurants. Basically, you choose from small pools what kind of seafood or fish you want, and then they cook it for you.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Lai Son Island and the pier
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Lai Son Island

What to do on Nam Du Island?

The Nam Du is actually an archipelago of over 20 islands, islets, and rocky outcrops. The biggest one is known as Hòn Lớn (the name translates literally as the Big Island), but most often people call it simply Nam Du. Most of the tourism facilities and infrastructure in the archipelago are based here. The rest of the outlying islands are pretty small and some are inhabited, such as Hon Ngang, Hon Mau, or Hon Trung and some are not.

I arrived on Nam Du Island in the morning and the first I walked to the guesthouse. It was about 20 minutes walk and probably the owner would have picked me up on a motorbike if I had asked.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of fishermen’s village on Nam Du
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of fishermen’s village on Nam Du

I rented a motorbike and the plan was rather simple, just to circumnavigate the island, following the main road which is about 15 km long. First, I headed south to Bãi Sỏi Beach, which was a nice photo spot. It’s a stone beach and not very suitable for swimming. At the southern tip of the island, there is a nice viewpoint of three neighboring islands: Nom Trong, Nom Giua, and Nom Ngoai. I took advantage of the nice weather and took off with my drone.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Neighboring islands
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Nam Du

That section of the coast was very pleasant to discover on a motorbike. Soon, I arrived at Bãi Cây Mến which is definitely the best white sand beach on the island for swimming and the best place to chill in a hammock among coconut trees with a cold drink.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Cay Men

Continuing further north, I reached the roadside temple Dinh Nam Hai Ngu Than which worships a whale. These animals are worshiped in quite a few places in Vietnam, especially in fishing communities as deities of the ocean that bring good luck to sailors. An almost complete skeleton of a whale together with some smaller baby whale skulls can be found inside the temple. The fishermen’s village Bãi Ngự is just around the corner. It’s easy to get lost in those narrow streets but if you are lucky, you will find a small local pier with nice views. An even better panoramic view down to the village but also around the whole northern part of Nam Du can be seen from its highest point: Hải Đăng Nam Du. It’s a military area and the top itself cannot be reached, however, the views from the road leading there are already good enough. Ride carefully, as the road is steep and can be challenging for inexperienced bikers.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village

I finished the loop at An Son, the village with the pier where I arrived earlier that morning by boat from Lai Son. There are some seafood restaurants as well as street vendors selling fruits and pretty much everything else.

As mentioned before, Nam Du is actually an archipelago. Therefore, another popular activity, especially if the weather allows, is island hopping. You can visit islands such as Hon Du, Hon Ngang, Hai Bo Dap, and many others. Snorkeling and diving tours can be organized as well. Boat tours usually follow predefined itineraries visiting the most interesting islands but you can also pay more for a private boat and just discuss the route details with a guide.

Summary

I think I got a bit spoiled visiting over 50 islands in Thailand during my 5 months there in 2022. Many of them are still in my mind as true paradise spots. I don’t regret visiting Lai Son or Nam Du but none of these islands even came close to my favorite Thai islands in terms of beauty. There is certainly a potential but the problem with rubbish is present on the islands on the same, or maybe even worse level than in mainland Vietnam. If you travel in the region for a few weeks or months like I did, then sure, come over and experience the place by yourself. But I don’t recommend fitting Lai Son and Nam Du Islands into your 2 or 3 weeks itinerary. There are simply way better places to visit.

Riding a motorbike in Laos can be a thrilling and adventurous experience, offering you the freedom to explore the country’s scenic landscapes and remote areas. By many, it is claimed to be the absolute best way of traveling there, and even though I had my ups and downs, I agree with that statement. There is nothing better than a full tank and a worry-free ride 🙂

The most obvious city to start and finish the North East Loop is definitely Luang Prabang. The route isn’t as famous as Thakhek Loop and you will seldom meet any other riders. The basic scenario is about 780 km long but there are options for detours, even to remote Sam Nuea next to the border with Vietnam.

When to go?

The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.

I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or at the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution and there is a higher chance to actually enjoy clear views of the mountains.

What to take?

To make your trip as enjoyable as possible, keep your luggage to a minimum and find a way to attach it to the seat of the bike (e.g. using bungee cords) rather than wearing a backpack all the time. There are some essentials you’ll need to ensure a safe and worry-free journey.

  • Protective gear: A high-quality helmet is essential for any motorbike trip. I bought mine in Thailand and used it in Laos or Vietnam as well. If renting one, make sure it fits you well and the quality is good. Never save money on the helmet! You should also invest in riding gloves and pants. You will see plenty of people enjoying the time on the bike in T-shirts, shorts, and flip-flops but trust me, you need more especially for a long-distance trip.
  • Protective covers: Rainproof jackets and covers for your gear and backpack can protect your belongings from rain and dust. Believe me, Laos can be very dusty!
  • Repair kit: Carry a basic repair kit including tools and tire repair materials. This can be helpful in case of any mechanical issues that may arise during your trip. There are lots of villages on the way where people will help you out but you have to get there first, and on some sections, the traffic can be minimal.
  • First aid kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit with bandages, antiseptics, painkillers, and any personal medication you may need.
  • Phone with navigation apps can be useful for finding your way. Be sure to download offline maps in case of poor network coverage.
  • Extra fuel and water: In some remote areas, fuel can be scarce, so it’s wise to carry extra fuel in a plastic bottle, just in case. Additionally, keep an adequate supply of water for hydration.

Motorbike rental

Most hotels and guesthouses rent themselves or can organize a motorbike for you. However, very often you won’t be able to take it out of town for a few days ride. After asking around and reading some reviews, I found Anousay Motorbike Rental. They are a little bit pricier but have a decent selection of bikes and they do allow you to take the bike as far as you wish. As I was traveling solo, I decided to choose Honda Wave which was in a really good condition. Unfortunately, there is no way to leave the deposit instead of the passport. Bungee cords for the luggage were not provided so I had to buy them separately in the nearby shop.

Accommodation

You may notice that there are not many accommodation options available on booking.com or agoda.com, except for Luang Prabang. It’s pretty normal in Laos and it’s not because all the rooms are booked out. The owners simply don’t care about advertising in this way. To get the best deal, check the reviews of guesthouses or hotels on Google Maps, choose a few that you like, and then visit them asking about the room and the price. Very often the deal will be also much better than when booking online.

The route

Stage 1: Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

Distance: 140 km

Time: 3-4 hours

Difficulty: Easy

There are a lot of things to do in Luang Prabang itself and I described the best activities in the separate article HERE. Once you enjoyed your time there and finally organized your motorbike, it’s time to hit the road!

The first day is a nice introduction to the route as it is also the easiest, mainly because of road conditions which are really good for Laos standards. You will follow Road 13 to the north, following the Mekong River and Nam Ou River, all the way to Pak Mong, where you will turn right and continue for another 30 km to Nong Khiaw.

About 20 km from Luang Prabang, you have the first detour option to Pak Ou Caves. You can later rejoin Road 13 following a mostly unpaved road along the Nam Ou River. The caves are filled with thousands of gold lacquered Buddha statues of various shapes and sizes that have been placed there over the centuries. I would say that the area and the way to the caves are more interesting than the caves themselves.

Nong Khiaw is a small village located on the west bank of the Nam Ou River which attracts more and more tourists who want to experience rural life. Narrow footpaths ascend steep limestone cliffs to provide you with panoramic views. There are also caves and fantastic multiple-day hiking opportunities to even smaller villages, with an overnight at the atmospheric homestay.

Nong Khiaw, Laos
Panorama of Nong Khiaw from one of many viewpoints

I stayed here for 4 days, so much more than I intended as I am keen on hiking. It was totally worth it and from the perspective of time, I think it was the best place on the entire loop. The full description of this lovely place can be found HERE.

Nong Khiaw, Laos
Nong Khiaw

Accommodation:

I stayed two first nights at Nam Ou Riverlodge, which is nicely located just at the riverside. The bed was comfortable and there was a mosquito net which I always appreciate ? The hot shower was fine, though the pressure was quite weak. The room costs about 220.000 LAK per night. The owner also organizes all kinds of tours, so if you want to do a hike, you won’t have to look any further.

Later, as the room was not available for extension, I stayed at Arthith Guesthouse. The views from the terrace were even better, and the room was clean and cozy. It was slightly more expensive than Nam Ou Riverlodge (300.000 LAK) but a delicious breakfast was included in the price.

Stage 2: Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam

Distance: 167 km

Time: 5-6 hours

Difficulty: Medium

This section was one of the most difficult for me on the entire route. There is very little traffic but the road is winding, with frequent potholes and some parts of it are unpaved for a few hundred meters just to become paved again and then the whole scenario repeats. Basically, you can’t lose your focus even for a second as it can cost you an accident. Ride carefully! There are villages on the way but food options are limited to snacks so better take something with you from Nong Khiaw.

The road from Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam

Stay on the Road 1C for the whole time. There are a lot of picturesque mountain panoramas so take your time and plan some stops to fully enjoy it.

Muang Hiam is a small town that doesn’t see many tourists. The highlight is definitely Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park and I recommend you to visit their Information Centre. There you can learn about the work they are doing to conserve some of Lao’s most endangered species. They also offer multiple day hikes as well as 24 Hours Night Safari which I wanted to do but it turned out to be crazy expensive for a solo traveler like me and there were no other people willing to join. Next time!

Natural hot springs are located a bit further north beyond Nam Et-Phou Louey Information Center, just follow the dirt road. Nothing too exciting to do there but you may walk around and buy some eggs for cooking in the boiling waters if you get hungry.

Accommodation:

I stayed at Heungkhamxay Guesthouse with an airconditioned room for 150.000 LAK per night. There are not too many restaurant options in the town but you will find some around the Nam Khan River Bridge.

Stage 3: Muang Hiam to Phonsavan

Distance: 207 km

Time: 6-7 hours

Difficulty: Easy

Quite an easygoing section although a long one. The road is paved and in relatively good condition. Follow road 1C for about 60 km until you reach an intersection in Ban Kor Hing. Then, turn right and head for about 90 km to the south towards Muang Kham. It’s worth making a short detour to Tham Piew Cave. It’s a historical site that was the scene of a human tragedy during the war. In 1968 the US Air Force fired a missile directly into the cave, which at the time was used as a shelter. 374 people were killed. The interior of the cave is filled with small rock piles, as a memorial to all those who died.

The entry to Tham Piew Cave

In Muang Kham you can refuel and easily find something to eat, so it’s a good place for a longer break.

If you still have some energy and time and are up to some offroad adventure, you may do a detour to Ban Phakheo Village. Normally, 2 days hike to that Hmong village, including a visit to nearby Jar Site 52 and Tad Ka Waterfall costs way over 100 USD when organized for a group of 1-2 people from Phonsavan. I believe it’s way too much for a hike in Laos so why not go on a motorbike independently? Look for “Turn-off to Tad Ka Waterfall” in Google Maps and follow the dirt road for about 1,5 km when you will have the junction to Pakheo. Turn right and just follow the dirt road passing by some other small villages on the way, until you reach your destination. The road is in decent condition and can be easily done on Honda Wave or similar. The panoramic views around the mountains are amazing and the location of Ban Phakheo is superb too. It’s well worth visiting here independently, even though the hike must be nice too.

Ban Phakheo Village, Laos
On the way to Ban Phakheo
Only a few friendly locals in Ban Phakheo Village

From Muang Kham, it’s another 55 km to Phonsavan, the capital of Xiengkhouang Province. There is not a lot to do in Phonsavan town itself, but you can easily spend two days exploring the area, especially the nearby Plain of Jars. Those mysterious giant stones are empty inside and archaeologists assume that they were used for burial rituals. Other places worth seeing are Muang Khoun, which was once the royal seat of the small kingdom of Xieng Khuang or Long Chien, a secret CIA airbase that was once the busiest single strip airport in the world, although getting there may be difficult on a small motorbike so check with your guesthouse first.

You can read all about Phonsavan and nearby attractions in a separate article HERE.

Plains of Jars, Laos
The Plain of Jars around Phonsavan

Accommodation:

I arrived without a reservation at Kongkeo Guesthouse and took a private room for 200.000 LAK. They offered also a bed in a dormitory for 70.000 LAK but I had to work online on that night. It was a nice room with a double bed, mosquito net, and a hot shower with really good water pressure which isn’t a norm in Laos. Laundry is available too, at 20.000 LAK per kilogram.

Alternative:

Stage 3 can be broken into two parts with possible extensions to Sam Nuea and Viang Xai Caves.

Stage 3.1: Muang Hiam to Sam Nuea

Distance: 152 km

Time: 6 hours

Difficulty: Easy

From Muang Hiam, follow Road 1C to the intersection in Ban Kor Hing, and then instead of turning right, continue straight staying on Road 1C. From this point, it will take you about 3 hours to arrive at Sam Nuea. Take a walk around the town and visit the lively Fresh Market.

Fresh Market in Sam Nuea

Viang Xai Caves are another 30 km outside of the town but are well worth visiting. We got an audio guide, but next to that, our guide explained a lot himself as well. It’s quite shocking to learn how thousands of Lao people successfully hid in the caves from the massive US bombing during the Secret War. There is a tour at 9 AM and another one at 1 PM. Entrance fee: 60,000 LAK. If you arrive outside of the tour hours, you will need to pay extra.

Inside the Viang Xai Caves
The landscape around Viang Xai

Accommodation:

The room at Khamxam Guesthouse in Sam Nuea was really spacious and comfortable. There is a parking in front and they lock the bikes for the night.

Stage 3.2: Sam Neua to Phonsavan

Distance: 239 km

Time: 7 – 9 hours

Difficulty: Medium

The main difficulty is the long distance, but taking into consideration a number of interesting sights on the way (Tham Piew Cave, Ban Phakheo), it would be smart to break it into easier and more enjoyable 2 days. You need to ride back to the intersection in Ban Kor Hing and then turn left, following the original Stage 3 described above.

The landscape near Sop Lao Village

Accommodation:

As already mentioned above, Kongkeo Guesthouse in Phonsavan cost me 200.000 LAK. They offered also a bed in a dormitory for 70.000 LAK if you don’t mind sharing the room.

You may also break the ride and spend the night in Keomixay Guesthouse in Sop Lao Village. It will work especially well if you spend the morning at Viang Xai Caves, as then reaching Phonsavan on the same day is rather unrealistic.

I did some drone flying nearby Sop Lao Village

Stage 4: Phonsavan to Phou Khoun

Distance: 136 km

Time: 4 – 5 hours

Difficulty: Medium

The road is paved and in good condition but very winding so take your time and stay focused. In my opinion, it’s the most scenic and enjoyable ride on this loop, with vast panoramic views of the mountains and the valleys with Hmong villages below.

The North East Loop in Laos

Accommodation:

In Phou Khoun, turn left and follow Road 13 in the southern direction. After about 3 km you will pass by Sala Phou Khoun Guesthouse. There is no obvious sign but as soon as I stopped, I was greeted by the owner who showed me the room. They also cooked dinner and breakfast for me which was very delicious. The views from the terrace at sunset must be splendid too but at that time of the year, air pollution due to agriculture burnouts was just horrible.

Stage 5: Phou Khoun to Luang Prabang

Distance: 128 km

Time: 5 – 6 hours

Difficulty: Hard

This section was definitely my most horrible motorbike ride in Laos. Even though for most of the distance the road is paved, it’s still covered in dust due to many trucks passing by every day. Overtaking is difficult due to many tight corners and sometimes you are just stuck for a few kilometers behind a huge truck, riding in the cloud of dust. Prepare yourself as much as you can, preferably wearing a decent face mask.

At some point, I even lost interest in the views and taking any pictures as I didn’t want the trucks that I had already overtaken to catch up with me. So, I simply pushed all the way back to Luang Prabang to return the bike and enjoy a hot shower in the guesthouse. The bike return went smoothly. I simply had to pay something extra as I agreed through Whatsapp to extend the rental period and then I got my passport back.

Accommodation:

I spent in Luang Prabang probably over a week in total. During this time, I stayed in three different guesthouses.

The first one was Beauty Season 1935 Hotel. Nothing too fancy but a pleasant stay. I didn’t like the entrance door to the room with a kind of wooden shutter so you can hear everything from the outside and probably people outside could hear you talking inside the room until late hours at night. Not ideal for digital nomads to have Skype calls.

The second and best one was Chaliya Boutique Garden. Comfortable room with fast internet and free bikes available for exploration of the city. The only problem was the price (25 – 30 USD per night) and I also didn’t like the fact that everything was quoted in USD and not in local currency.

The last one was PP Guesthouse where are arrived without booking. You should get a double room for around 12 USD, including a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, during 5 days of staying there, the room was never cleaned and I had to empty the rubbish bin myself as the teenage staff was too busy with their mobile phones.

Final thoughts

Was it worth riding the North East Loop in Laos? Once I finished it, I felt great satisfaction but it was also a challenging and tiring experience. Long hours on the bike, sometimes on poor-quality roads, not to mention the last day which totally destroyed me. Mae Hong Son Loop in Thailand and Ha Giang Loop were great and I would jump on the bike and ride them once again immediately. I can’t say the same about the North East Loop in Laos though. It’s one of these experiences that are good to do once in your life, but I definitely wouldn’t repeat it, or simply I would save my nerves and butt and do it on a bus.

One of my favourite national parks in Thailand is located just next to the impressive Mekong River. Pha Taem is named after a large cliff where besides the panoramic views, you can also admire ancient rock paintings. There are excellent hiking trails and well-maintained campsites.

How much is the entrance fee?

The ticket for one day costs 400 THB for foreigners, so it’s quite expensive compared to other national parks. To fully enjoy it, I suggest spending two days in the park, including camping on one of the cliffs.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Panorama of the Mekong River

How to get there?

Ubon Ratchathani can be reached by air, train, or bus from Bangkok. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon which take less than an hour. Train and buses are significantly cheaper but the travel time takes between 9 – 11 hours. My preference is the sleeping train which has the best comfort-to-price ratio but the arrival is very early in the morning, so you will need to hang around the city a few hours before checking in to the hotel.

From Ubon Ratchathani, you will need to get a bus or minibus further to Khong Chiam.

You may check your connections at 123Go.Asia

How to get around?

You can travel comfortably through the park by car or motorbike. If you are in Khong Chiam, ask around at your accommodation or Baan Steak Restaurant.

If you plan a long road trip in Isan, I recommend renting a car in Ubon Ratchathani. In bigger cities, there is always more competition and better prices. I used the services of Smile Rent a Car and got a well-maintained and cheap Toyota Yaris.

Smile Rental Car Thailand
Nice and well maintained rental car

When to go?

The park has a monsoon climate with three seasons: the rainy season (June to October), the cool season (October to February), and the dry and hot season (February to June). The waterfalls will look the best in the middle or at the end of the rainy season. Other periods are nice as well but be aware that in May, the road to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is closed and there is very little or no water in the falls.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The Mekong River seen from the cliffs
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The views are fantastic and next time I will definitely camp on the cliffs!

Where to stay?

I recommend the Khong Chiam 2 Hotel in the small town of the same name. It’s conveniently located close to the main road and the night market. The room was clean and very spacious, with fast internet.

Itinerary

The first turn-off when driving from Khong Chiam takes you to Sao Chaliang. It is a natural monolith formed by water and wind erosion that resembles mushrooms. There are visible remains of shells, gravel, and sand in the rock, therefore, it is assumed that about a million years ago, this area used to be the sea. The Meak Mai Sai Than Hin Taek Nature Trail is comprised of 3 pathways. The first trail is 350 meters long, the second one has 1 kilometer and the third one is 2.7 kilometers. I highly recommend doing the longest loop as the views are really beautiful.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Impressive Sao Chaliang rock formations
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
I highly recommend hiking around that area

Further down the road is Pha Taem Cliff with incredible views over the Mekong River, a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Due to its geographical location to the east, the area is also known as the best place to experience the first rays of the sun in the country.

The hiking trail takes you first down the cliff to see ancient prehistoric paintings that were first discovered in 1981. They were made in various styles and techniques and present people, animals (elephant, turtle, catfish, and freshwater stingray), utensils, symbols, and human palms. The paintings are dated to be approximately 3,000 – 2,500 years old. Then you will climb up and return to the parking lot following the path at the top of the cliff. The total distance is nearly 5 kilometres but it is worth it!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The hiking path leads at the bottom of the cliff
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Rock paintings can be seen in several places
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
They present people, animals, utensils, symbols…
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
…and human palms
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The way back to the parking is at the top of the cliff

Another turn-off from Road 2112 takes you to Soi Sawan Waterfall. From the parking, there is a short walk down to the falls. It was a beautiful sight even though there was very little water in May. From the parking area, you can also take a longer hike to Pha Chek Cliff and Pha Moei Cliff. The panorama of the Mekong River from there is simply breathtaking. The distance is about 4.5 km one way which should take 1.5-2h to complete.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Not too much water flowing at the end of May
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Nevertheless, the rock formations are worth seeing

Come back to the main road and continue further north. Saeng Chan Waterfall is another exciting place to stop by and quite unusual because the water runs through the hole in the sandstone rock. Take your time to absorb the atmosphere of this place!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Saeng Chang Waterfall

Nearby, there is Thung Na Mueang Waterfall and if you continue following the road along the Mekong River, you will reach its end and the easternmost point of Thailand.

The next two attractions are a bit more difficult to reach. The road up to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is narrow and there are specific times when you can go up and down. The schedule as of April 2023 looked as follows:

Time of going up: 04:30 – 06:30, 10:30 – 13:00, 16:00 – 18:00

Time of going down: 07:30 – 09:30, 14:00 -15:00, 19:00 – 19:30

The road seems to be closed during the month of May. Check their website for the most recent information.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The road to Pha Chana Dai Cliff

The cliff is an easy 10 minutes walk from the car park and provides great views over the Mekong and into the mountains of Laos. Consider camping overnight to see the magnificent sunrise! Huai Phok Waterfall is nearby.

On the way to Pha Chana Dai, don’t forget to stop at Twin Pillars which is another sandstone formation shaped like a mushroom. Very photogenic!

Further north, you may visit Pha Chang, another scenic area with lower cliffs on the Mekong riverbank. It’s free to visit and you can park your car just at the end of the road and walk down the remaining distance. In the same area, you will find Sao Chaliang Yai, which is another rock formation resembling a giant mushroom.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Mekong riverbank at Pha Chang
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Less impressive but still scenic cliffs

Nearby

Sam Phan Bok

This place doesn’t belong to Pha Taem National Park but it’s pretty close to it and in my opinion, you can’t miss it. Sam Phan Bok means 3000 holes and as soon as you see the landscape, you will understand why it is called like that. The waters of the Mekong River eroded sandstone rocks into unique shapes. You may walk down there by yourself or hire a pickup truck for 150 THB to give you a lift. The distance isn’t long but it’s exposed terrain and on a sunny day it can be incredibly hot. There are people selling drinks and you may also accept the service of a young local guide showing you around, pointing at some unique rock formations such as Mickey Mouse, and taking photos of you.

Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Pick-up trucks take tourists to the riverbank
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Top-down view of eroded rocks
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Aerial views of Sam Phan Bok
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Mickey Mouse 🙂
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
You can wander around freely or hire a young guide to show you around
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
The place is best seen in the dry season when the water level is low

Traveling through the Isan region of Thailand was a wonderful experience, mainly because of the amazing landscape filled with national parks and the breathtaking Mekong River. I haven’t visited too many temples there, mainly because I felt a bit bored with them after seeing so many in the last few years. But Wat Phu Tok was completely different and I was so happy to explore it!

How to get there?

The temple can be reached from Nakhon Phanom, Udon Thani, or Nong Khai, and from all these places the driving time will take about 2.5 – 3 hours. Alternatively, get a bus to Bueng Kan and organize your further transport there, by renting a car/motorbike or hiring a driver. The best would be to consult the options at your accommodation.

You may check your connections at 12Go.Asia

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Temples in Thailand can be really unique!

When to go?

The temple can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

I visited this region in May and unfortunately, it wasn’t the best experience as it was scorching hot, and walking around the rock wasn’t easy.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Impressive walkways around the mountain

Sightseeing

I didn’t have any problems with finding a parking space inside the temple grounds. Understandably, there weren’t too many people willing to expose themselves to the sun in a massive heatwave that was over Thailand at that time with over 45 C every day. It would be smart to plan your visit in the early morning or later afternoon.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Wat Phu Tok

Around the parking, there is another big temple with a beautiful lake as well as Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto, dedicated to the founder of the entire place.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
The area near the parking

I grabbed my water bottle and started climbing the wooden stairs and ladders up the rocky mountain of Phu Thok. Even though there was some shadow created by the trees, I stopped frequently to wipe the sweat off my forehead.

Wat Phu Tok is certainly one of the most unique and exciting temples I’ve visited in Thailand. The whole experience of climbing and the panoramic view from the top reminded me of the visit to Wat Chalermprakiat Mountain Temple in Lampang Province in 2022.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
One of the caves with plenty of statues

Phu Tok Mountain is 359 meters high, and the name literally means “a lonely mountain”. Indeed, there aren’t any other significant peaks in that area. Due to its isolation from the outside world, it seemed to be the perfect place for meditation, and the construction was initiated by Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto, one of Thailand’s most venerated monks. Several wooden staircases, ladders, and walkways were created on seven levels to connect meditation places, shrines, and Buddha statues. Number seven is not a coincidence as it relates to the seven stages of awakening that lead to Nirvana. The construction was finished by 1980, including the walkways into the sides of the cliff, providing a 360-degree panoramic view of Bueng Kan District.

The navigation is rather simple and even though sometimes you will have to decide to turn left or right, the best is to just follow your intuition and immerse yourself into this place. Sooner or later you will reach the top level anyway. Keep in mind that following wooden walkways hanging at the edge of the cliff is not something for people afraid of heights. The construction is stable, but still, it’s hard to get rid of the thought that you are several hundred meters from the ground.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
The impressive walkway around the rock
Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
It’s definitely not for those afraid of heights

On level 5, you will see an impressive boulder and a small pavilion with the relics of the Buddha and a statue of Ajarn Juan. The views are breathtaking and it’s a good photo spot to capture the walkways installed on the rocky wall.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Pavilion with the relics of the Buddha
Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Pavilion and nearby landscape

The summit of Wat Phu Tok is on the 7th level, but it’s mostly covered with vegetation. There will be two nice spots for taking photos if you decide to make a loop walk around that area. I strongly recommend doing so!

When going down, I was trying to take different walkways and staircases than I did on the way up. The whole sightseeing experience took me about 2 hours, at a rather relaxing pace. It was a good and sweaty exercise but worth it! Some of the walkways may look a bit terrifying but in the end, I felt only positive thrill and excitement.

Other places to visit

As already mentioned, visiting Wat Phu Tok should take you between 2-3 hours. If you have your transport, you may want to fill up your day with some of the attractions mentioned below.

Chet Si Waterfall

It takes about 1 kilometer of walking to get to the waterfall from the parking area. There are several levels to explore but be careful as the rocks may be slippery. Best to visit in the rainy season, otherwise there might be no water and no fun 🙂

Unfortunately dry Chet Si Waterfall

Tham Phra Waterfall

On my visit in May, the waterfall has run mostly out of water but I still enjoyed the visit to this place. The sandstone cliffs are beautiful and the eroded pools filled with water are good for cooling down. It’s an excellent place to take some pictures and enjoy nature. You need to get a short boat ride from the pier to get there, which usually cost 50 THB per person for a round trip but you might be charged more if you are a solo traveler.

Three Whale Rock

Another stunning rock formation in the region with incredible views of the Isan countryside and the Mekong River in the distance. The bus to the top together with a guide will take you to five stops including Three Whale Rock. It costs 500 THB per vehicle which can fit up to 8 people. Yellow tape lets you know how far you can go toward the edge of the rock.

Phu Langka National Park

A great park with well-maintained trails. The most popular one to Nakee Cave takes about 3 hours for a round trip and a moderate level of fitness is required. When going up, you need to take at least one guide per group of no more than 10 people. No need to book in advance but it’s recommended to go early in the morning to avoid heat. During the rainy season, there is a beautiful waterfall along the trail. The park seems to be closed in May. The entrance fee is 200 THB for foreigners.

Naka Cave

The round trip takes about 4 hours and you should be moderately fit. There are lots of stairs to climb so carry plenty of water and something to eat. The mountain has rocks with the texture of snakeskin and also some rocks that look like snake heads. During the weekends, it’s recommended to book your hiking trip with the QueQ application. You will be assigned a guide who will accompany you and tell you more about the cave and the mountains around.

Located in Thailand’s Nakhon Ratchasima Province, Khao Yai National Park has a long and fascinating history. It was established as the country’s first national park in 1962 and is now one of the most popular tourist destinations not far from Bangkok. The area is home to stunning waterfalls, rainforests, mountains, as well as elephants, and other incredible wildlife. Read on to discover the amazing attractions that await you inside and outside of the park!

How to get there?

Khao Yai National Park is located about 180 kilometres northeast of Bangkok and about 3-4 hours’ drive from the capital. If travelling by public transport, the best option would be to take a train or bus from Bangkok to Pak Chong and then hail a taxi, take a songthaew or rent a motorbike for a one-hour drive to the Khao Yai.

You may also check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

When to go?

The park can be visited during the whole year, however, the chances of animal encounters or the size of waterfalls will vary significantly.

The hot seasons last from March to May. While it isn’t as hot as it is in the cities, the rainfall is very low and waterfalls aren’t too impressive, or some may even dry up completely. The advantage is a minimal number of leeches.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

The rainy season lasts from June to September. Waterfalls are and their best and you can hear a loud noise of flowing water even from a distance. The vegetation is green and dense. Unfortunately, there are plenty of leeches so you will need to be extra careful.

The cool season lasts from October to February and the average temperatures are the lowest during the year. It can get especially cold in the mountains during the night. The skies are blue and the visibility is excellent. As this period is just after the end of the rainy season, the waterfalls are still nice to see, especially in October.

Where to stay?

I decided to stay in Pak Chong, which is a bigger town not far from the national park. I recommend this option for people working online, as it may be hard to find reliable WIFI in nature. The place I stayed in was called Pak Chong Hostel & Wildlife Tours and it was excellent. The room is simple and only with a fan, but it was just enough for me. The owner is incredibly friendly. He picked me out from the train station, took me for lunch, rented a motorbike, explained the best things to do in the park and even provided me with leech socks. He also organizes tours, which may be a good option in case you are travelling in a bigger group. The only disadvantage of staying in Pak Chong is the distance to the national park entrance gate. It’s about 30 km and 40 minutes of riding a motorbike.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

For those without the need of being connected to the Internet, the best would be to stay at a campsite or in a bungalow inside the park. It would give you much higher chances for encounters with wildlife at dawn and dusk.

What to take?

It’s a tropical environment and there are a few items that you definitely should take with you, to make your trip enjoyable and safe.

1. Sunscreen

2. Insect Repellent

3. Leech socks

4. Hat

5. Sunglasses

6. Lightweight and comfortable clothing

7. Trekking shoes

8. Water bottle

9. Snacks

10. Raincoat or poncho

11. First aid kit

12. Camera

13. Binoculars

14. Map of the park

Entrance fee

The ticket is quite pricey compared to other national parks in Thailand, but taking into consideration its size, it’s understandable. As of May 2023, foreign adults will pay 400 THB and children 200 THB. Thai citizens of course will pay much less, 40 THB for adults and 20 THB for children. Unfortunately, the double price policy is quite standard in this country. There is a small additional fee if you are entering the park with a motorbike or car.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

What to do inside the park

Chao Phor Khao Yai Shrine

It is the first sight that you will see when entering the national park from the Pak Chong side. The shrine was erected in memory of Mr Jang Nisaisat, the individual who had protected the animals and forest of Khao Yai and was widely respected by local villagers.

Km. 30 Viewpoint

Shortly after passing the shrine, you will encounter this beautiful viewpoint. It faces the north and in the morning there is often a sea of mist below the mountain range.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Trail #3: Km. 33 – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 4.2 km one-way

Time: 2.5 – 3 hours

The trail starts at the roadside by the Km. 33 milestone. It was highly recommended by my host in Pak Chong to hike it first and preferably do it in the early morning. He was right! It was definitely the highlight of my visit. You will see different types of vegetation: mature dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. I saw hornbills, gibbons and some other insects. The sound made by gibbons was amazing! Closer to Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower, you can see some traces of elephants as they come near the water sources and salt licks. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any at that time.

From the observation tower, you may either hike back the same way or continue to the asphalt road and hitchhike back to your car or motorbike. The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #5: Dong Tiw – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 5.5 km one-way

Time: 3 hours

The trail can be combined with #3 in one big loop. It starts at the side of Thanarat Road about 200m from the Visitor Center at Sai Sorn Reservoir and finishes around Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower. The highlight of this trail is a giant Baing tree which is centuries old.

The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #4: Dong Tiw – Sai Sorn Reservoir

Distance: 2.7 km one-way

Time: 1.5  – 2 hours

This one-way trail leads to Sai Sorn Reservoir, a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. It is just a much shorter version of trail #5. In the rainy season, you may see a beautiful array of flowers such as balloon plants, begonia and mossiata. The trail also connects with #5 and #7.

Trail #7: Thai-American Friendship Trail

Distance: 2 km loop

Time: 1.5  hours

It starts and ends at the Ridge of Sai Sorn Reservoir. The trail celebrates the long and friendly relations between Thailand and the USA. You will walk through dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. Frequently encountered wildlife include the Siamese Fireback, silver pheasant, gibbons and hornbills.

Trail #1: Visitor Center – Kong Kaew Waterfall

Distance: 1.2 km loop

Time: 45 mins – 1 hour

The trail begins at the hanging bridge behind the Visitor Center. This is the shortest and the easiest trail in the national park. Animals encountered might include the Lar gibbon, pileated gibbon and various birds. At the end of the trail is a small Kong Kaew Waterfall. Nothing too impressive but a pleasant place to rest next to the stream with volcanic rocks.

Trail #6: Visitor Center – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 8 km one-way

Time: 6 hours

The longest and the most challenging trail in the national park. You will walk through both rainforest and dry forests interspersed with bamboo groves. Animals encounters may include elephants, gibbons, Asian black bears and hornbills. There are many twists and turns, so the route may be confusing, and this is why you should consider arranging an experienced trail guide. The reward at the end is one of the two most beautiful waterfalls in the park.

The hikes should be started before 10.00. It is closed between July 1st – August 31st.

Trail #2: Pha Kluai Mai Campground – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 3 km one-way

Time: 2 hours

This nature trail links two waterfalls, following the Lam Ta Khong stream. Along the trail, you will hear the thundering sound of Pha Kluay Mai Waterfall during the rainy season. Unfortunately, in May the water level was very low so the trail wasn’t that impressive to me. On the other hand, when water levels drop, you can see the traces of lava flow from a volcano hundreds of millions of years ago.

Haew Suwat Waterfall

One of the two most impressive waterfalls in the Khao Yai National Park. Lam Ta Khong stream falls 25 metres down the volcanic rock. There is a nice viewpoint where the falls can be seen through vegetation but for a much better experience, you should go down quite steep steps to the basin. In the dry season, you may check out the cave just behind the water curtain.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Sai Sorn Reservoir

A picturesque place with plains for picnics and sufficient parking along the road. A popular place for event photography too. Hiking trails #4, #5 and #7 pass nearby.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand
Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Pha Diaw Dai Viewpoint

The wooden boardwalk is approximately 450 meters long and leads you through a pristine forest, which is extremely atmospheric in the wet weather. The views from the stony edge of the cliff over the Rom Khwang mountain range are truly breathtaking.

While driving up here, you will pass by Viewpoint 3 at Yod Khao Khieo Mountain. The panorama is great as well but there is no place to stop and park a car or motorbike.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand
Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Pha Trom Jai Cliff

It is located 600 metres from the Pha Diaw Dai, just next to the entrance to the Royal Thai Air Force radar station. At an elevation of 1,290 meters above sea level, this is the highest viewpoint in the central region of Thailand. The view, however, isn’t the best.

Haew Narok Waterfall

Haew Narok is located to the south of Khao Yai National Park on Highway 3077, about 23 km from the Visitor Center. It’s an excellent road through the dense forest with a high chance of seeing wild elephants, especially in the later afternoon. Drive slowly!

The waterfalls are the largest and tallest in the park (150 metres). From the parking, there is a 1-kilometre trail going over Huay Samor Poon Stream and then down the steep staircase to the best viewpoint.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

According to the national park website, the area of the waterfall is a permanent part of wild elephants’ foraging range, which has been the cause of tragedy with elephants falling down the waterfall. The first time was on 2 August 1992, when a family of 8 elephants was lost as they were crossing the stream in the forest at the top of Haew Narok Waterfall, making it known as an elephant graveyard”. On 5 October 2019, another 11 elephants were lost.

Night Safari

When joining the tour, you may see nocturnal animals, such as sambar deer, Malayan porcupine, large Indian civet, Asian palm civet, wild elephant, owls and nightjars. Inquire and reserve a time slot at Khao Yai Visitor Center, at the service desk before 6 p.m. The guided journey on a pick-up truck is 10 km long and takes about one hour. The price is 600 THB per vehicle fitting up to 10 people.

Whitewater Rafting

The rainy season from July to October is the best for this activity as the water current is strong and turbulent, and suitable for rafters wanting to be challenged. Hin Phoeng Rapids is used as a starting point and then a trip continues on a 2.5 km stretch with 6 rapids called Kaeng Hin Phoeng, Kaeng Phak Nam Lom, Kaeng Wang Bon, Kaeng Luk Seua, Kaeng Wang Sai and Kaeng Ngu Hao.

What to do outside of the park

Ban Tha Chang Spring

A popular place for locals to come for a dip. Very clear water with plenty of space to enjoy. You may also rent a kayak and check out the small river. Free entrance and free parking

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Khao Yai Art Museum

Surprisingly good place with paintings and sculptures of local artists. Don’t miss a walk in the garden which is full of art installations. Free entrance.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Wat Tham Sila Thong

Ask the monk to give you a key to a cave. It has a hole in the ceiling, but the cave is quite dark so it’s good to have your own flashlight.

Bat Cave

It’s not really a cave to explore, but rather an observation point for a spectacle straight from National Geographic documentaries. At dusk, thousands of bats fly out of the cave in a continuous stream. Unique and amazing experience! The show of nature usually happens between 5:45 PM – 7 PM and lasts for a surprisingly long time. Over 20 minutes once I was there!

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Sarika Waterfall

Another nice waterfall with a beautiful winding road up the mountains to get there. Entrance ticket for foreigners costs 200 THB and for Thais 40 THB. As in all the other waterfalls in this region, it’s best to visit in the rainy season.

Nang Rong Waterfall

Small and free waterfall but unfortunately not very well maintained. A popular picnic place for local people.

Khun Dan Prakarn Chon Dam

The longest and largest dam in Thailand. You can either walk or rent an electric golf cart to get to the other side. Obviously, I recommend walking. There’s also an option to go on a boat trip further down the lake and to the nearby waterfall.

Nakhon Ratchasima, or “Khorat” as it is more commonly called, is the largest city in the Isaan province of northeastern Thailand. Located close to the famous ancient Khmer ruins of Phimai, and with a booming city center, Nakhon Ratchasima has become a popular tourist destination.

How to get there?

From Bangkok, there are several ways of getting to Nakhon Ratchasima, also known as Khorat.

By bus: There are numerous bus services from Bangkok which run every day. The journey takes around 4 hours and tickets can be purchased from several major bus terminals in Bangkok, but probably the easiest is to start at Mochit Bus Terminal.

By train: The State Railway of Thailand operates several services from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station or Don Mueang to Nakhon Ratchasima. The journey takes around 4-5 hours.

By car: The journey takes around four hours by highway.

By air: Nakhon Ratchasima has an airport, Khorat Airport (KKC), with direct flights from Bangkok. Flight time takes around 1 hour.

You may also check your connections at 123Go.Asia

Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand
Aerial view to Phon Saen Gate

When to go?

The city can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

Where to stay?

I spent two nights in Moonlight House and can’t say anything bad about it. It’s nicely located within walking distance of most of the sights, there is parking and an opportunity to rent motorbikes. The staff at the reception is very friendly too.

What to see?

Wat Sala Loi

Located in the northeast of the city, about 500 meters from Rob Mueng Road. The temple was built by the Khorat heroine Thao Suranari and her husband in 1827. Wat Sala Loi’s highlight is the meeting hall which is the applied Thai art in the shape of a ship riding the waves. The outdoor is also made of metal. Inside the hall, there is a giant statue of Buddha. Outside there is a plaster sculpture of Thao Suranari sitting and praying in the middle of a pong, plus a small pagoda containing her ashes. There are even small waterfalls if you need to slow down and relax.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand

City gates

Nakhon Ratchasima has been the important gateway to the northeastern region since the Ayutthaya period, preventing Khmer invasions. Therefore, the city wall and gates were built. Chumphon Gate is the only original one still standing. The other ones: Phon Saen Gate, Phon Lan Gate, Chainarong Gate or Yamo Gate have been recently rebuilt.

Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand
Phon Lan Gate
Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand
Yamo Gate

Wat Phayap

Definitely an extraordinary site with an interesting history. When the abbot of Wat Phayap learned that blasting for a quarry in Saraburi Province was destroying a beautiful cave, he decided to rescue some pieces of it and create a room full of stalactites, stalagmites and Buddha statues just next to his residence.

Thao Suranari (Ya Mo) Monument

A statue of Thao Suranari stands in the center of Nakhon Ratchasima and is a popular object of devotion. Lady Mo, also known as Ya Mo (Grandma Mo) was the wife of the deputy governor of Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat), the stronghold of Siamese control over its Laotian vassals.

In 1826, the King of Vientiane invaded Siam, seeking complete independence. His forces seized the city, and evacuated the inhabitants, intending to resettle them in Laos. This is when Lady Mo comes into the stage. She became a hero by organizing a successful prisoner revolt. There are several versions of the legend. One of them says that she convinced the women to seduce the Lao soldiers. According to another one, she simply got them drunk. One more says that she requested knives from the invaders so that food could be prepared and then she gave the knives to the imprisoned men. The result was, however, the same in all stories. Thai men launched a surprise attack, saving the city.

Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand
Thao Suranari Monument
Nakhon Ratchasima in Thailand
And one more monument!

Maha Weerawong National Museum

A very small museum in a one-story building behind the library. There are interesting antiques to see but you will be done with sightseeing in half an hour.

Wat Pha Narai Maha Rat

The temple takes its name from the Vishnu statue which is housed in a shrine there. The statue is Khmer in origin and made of sandstone. There are three of these sandstone statues in the temple. It is nicely located on an island in the center of a small lake, but somehow the area seems to be neglected.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Impressive Naga at the entrance
Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Temple is located at the artificial lake

Wat Sa Kaeo

Small and calm temple next to an artificial pond alongside a road.

Art Gallery and Exhibition

A pair of two-story pavilions have a variety of art and exhibits of Thai kings. Located in a little park beside a section of moat. Most of the information is in the Thai language only. Free to enter.

City Pillar Shrine

More than the altar it is the large pottery wall telling the battle against Lao invaders (the one Thao Suranaree presumably led).

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
People praying next to City Pillar Shrine

Around Nakhon Ratchasima

Prasat Hin Phanom Wan

A must-visit Khmer sanctuary, which is believed to be built in the 15th century and renovated during the 18th and 19th centuries. Initially dedicated to the Hindu religion but later became a Buddhist ritual site. The main pagoda and a tiered pagoda are still remaining and make the site incredibly beautiful and atmospheric. Not many tourists come here so you won’t find guides or shops. Just a peaceful place with ancient structures.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Prasat Hin Phanom Wan

Prasat Non Ku

It is a small cluster constructed of bricks and sandstone. The plan is rectangular facing east. From the archaeological evidence, it is assumed that it used to be a Hindu religious building cluster in the ancient Khmer style in the 10th century.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Prasat Non Ku

Prasat Muangkhaek

This large ancient ruin is 600 meters from Prasat Non Ku, made of bricks and sandstone with a rectangular plan facing towards the north. It is assumed that this building might have possibly been another Hindu shrine in this region. It was built around the 10th century.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Prasat Muangkhaek
Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Prasat Muangkhaek

Mueang Sema Historical Site

Mueang Sema is a large ancient city that was surrounded by an earthen moat and divided into outer city and inner city. The outer city was larger on the north side, where three ancient monuments were found. In the center of the city, a square moat or pond was dug. Monuments of the inner city are found at 6 sites. Some sites are religious centers of the Brahman religion, such as Prasat Prathan, constructed in Khmer style with bricks. Additionally, within the Muean Sema were found skeletons buried ritually in the prostrate position, wearing bronze rings, along with pottery, iron tools, and glass beads.

Mueang Sema has developed since the late prehistoric age around the 13th – 14th centuries Buddhist Era. During this period, under the influence of Dvaravati culture Buddhist religious sites were constructed. Later, around the 15th – 16th centuries of the Buddhist Era, the influence of Khmer culture brought about the appearance of Hindu buildings.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Mueang Sema Historical Site

Wat Thammachak Semaram

This reclining Buddha image made of sandstone is the oldest and largest in Thailand. It was built approximately in the 15th-century Buddhist era about the same time as the ancient city of Mueang Sema. It is in the area just outside of the moat of Mueang Sema. The image is built from large blocks of red sandstone placed in layers and carved into the shape of a reclining Buddha oriented north to south. It has been hypothesized that this area was an important Buddhist religious center for the ancient Mueang Sema.

Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
The reclining Buddha image
Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Wat Thammachak Semaram

Wat Ban Rai and Luang Phor Koon Museum

Wat Ban Rai is one of the famous Temples in Nakhon Ratchasima. It required some effort to get there as it’s over one hour drive from the city center.

Originally, Wat Ban Rai was a small monastery, but then the monk Luang Pho Khun developed it into the big and well-known temple that we can see today. An interesting building on the grounds is definitely an elephant-liked ceramic shrine in the center of the water. On the rooftop are the statue of the walking Buddha and the statue of Luang Pho Khun. The Museum of Luang Pho Khun presents some more details about the life of a famous monk.

Phimai

It is a charming town famous for the 11th-century Khmer ruins of Phimai Historical Park. It’s one of Thailand’s most impressive and well-preserved archaeological sites. Long before it was a tourist attraction, the site served as an important religious and political hub for the Khmer Empire. Today, visitors to Phimai are treated to an incredible display of ancient architecture and intricate carvings, as well as a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage. You can read more about it in a separate post HERE.

Jim Thompson Farm

Beautiful place to spend some time among flowers and relax. It only opens for a specific period during the year, which is usually around December. Check the info in advance on their Facebook to avoid disappointment.

Phimai, located in Thailand’s Nakhon Ratchasima Province, is a charming town famous for the 11th-century Khmer ruins of Phimai Historical Park. It’s one of Thailand’s most impressive and well-preserved archaeological sites. Long before it was a tourist attraction, the site served as an important religious and political hub for the Khmer Empire. Today, visitors to Phimai are treated to an incredible display of ancient architecture and intricate carvings, as well as a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage.

How to get there?

The fastest way to get to Phimai from Nakhon Ratchasima would be to take a bus from Terminal 2 Station. The journey takes over an hour and tickets can be purchased inside the bus.

When to go?

The site can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

Phimai in Thailand

Where to stay?

Phimai can be easily reached from Nakhon Ratchasima as a day trip. That’s exactly what I did so I haven’t stayed there for the night. I am not going to recommend anything from my own experience, but if you want to take your time in the town, look for your options at booking.com or agoda.com. Benya Guest House looks like something that I could potentially choose.

Phimai in Thailand

What to see?

Prasat Hin Phimai

The temple is located at one end of the Ancient Khmer Highway from Angkor and it is believed to have been an important city in the Khmer Empire. Most buildings are from the late 11th to the late 12th century, built in the Baphuon, Bayon, and Khmer temple style. As the inhabitants of the Khorat area had been Buddhists as far back as the 7th century, the temple was dedicated to the Vajrayana sect of Mahayana Buddhism.

Phimai in Thailand
Phimai in Thailand

In front of the main temple, there were Prang Hin Daeng and Prang Bhramadatta which were also in the rectangular gallery with four-sided entrances. These two buildings were linked together by the walkway. In front of the southern entrance, there was a cross passageway which was called Naga Bridge. The frontmost building was presumably used as a robing pavilion for the king and nobles before performing religious ceremonies.

After the fall of the Ayutthaya Kingdom in 1767, attempts were made to set up five separate states, with Prince Teppipit, establishing Phimai as one, ruling over eastern provinces including Nakhon Ratchasima. As the weakest of the five, Prince Teppipit was the first to be defeated and was executed in 1768.

Phimai in Thailand
Phimai in Thailand
Phimai in Thailand

Phimai National Museum

The museum contains artefacts from the Phimai Historic Site and other temples in the region. It is best to visit before entering the historical park to understand the full context. The entry fee is 100 THB for foreigners and 20 THB for Thais. Unfortunately, as of May 2023, the museum was closed for renovation and I’m not sure how long it is going to take. There are some artefacts located outdoors so you can still walk around and see them for free. The remains of the North Gate are located near the museum, on the other side of Tha Songkran Road.

Meru Brahmathat

Just a short walk from the entrance to Prasat Phimai is the ruin of Meru Brahmathat. It is unrelated to the Khmer Empire in any way and origins from the 18th century which was the late Ayutthaya era. It sits atop a man-made hill and unfortunately isn’t in particularly good condition. It looks much better from the square further away than up close.

Phimai in Thailand

Pratu Chai

The south gate is the most intact and noteworthy of Phimai’s three surviving 13th-century city gates. It was built by King Jayavarman VII and served the road to Angkor.

Phimai in Thailand

Sai Ngam

It must be the biggest banyan tree I have ever seen! it’s a very significant symbol in Buddhism as it is believed that the Buddha enlightened while sitting in the shade of a banyan tree. A banyan reproduces by sending tendrils down from its branches which can take root and form a new tree. It’s a pleasant walking area and there are plenty of food stalls available.

Phimai in Thailand
Phimai in Thailand

Banprasat Archaeological Site

Excavation sites include some pottery and burial places of a farming community dating back some 3000 years. There is also a small museum, with explanations in English. The village is located about 15 km from Phimai. Free entrance.

Phimai, Thailand

Thung Samrit Memorial

The place was a battleground between the Khorat people and Lao soldiers during the reign of King Rama III. A shrine was constructed by villagers in 1988 to pay homage to the fighters. 

Phimai, Thailand

Cat Tien is one of the most famous National Parks in Vietnam. Located in the southern part of the country, it is home to a unique and diverse ecosystem that includes tropical forests, wetlands, and even a dry evergreen forest. Here, visitors will discover a wide variety of wildlife, including rare species of birds, primates, and reptiles. Not only is this park a haven for nature lovers, but it also offers some activities for those looking for a bit of adventure. From day hikes to overnight camping, there’s something for everyone. I spent 2 full days in the park and left with mixed impressions. Let me show you what the part has to offer and what disappointed me.

How to get there?

From Ho Chi Minh City, you can take a bus from the Mien Dong (Eastern) Bus Station to the town of Dai Ninh, located just outside of Cat Tien National Park. From there, you can take a taxi or motorbike to the park. Alternatively, if you are travelling from other cities in Vietnam, you can take a bus or train to either Bao Loc or Dalat and arrange transport from there.

You may also check your connections at 123Go.Asia.

When to go?

The best time to visit Cat Tien National Park is during the dry season, which runs from December to May. During this time, the weather is more pleasant, making it ideal for trekking and exploring the park.

Where to stay?

My stay at Thuy Tien Eco Lodge was definitely one of the most pleasant experiences in that area. I was upgraded to the bigger room which was clean, with air-conditioning and a hot water shower. The internet was fast and I could work online without any issues. The owner was really sweet and she helped me organize my time in the park and gave me some tips.

What to take?

It’s a tropical environment and there are a few items that you definitely should take with you, to make your trip enjoyable and safe.

1. Sunscreen

2. Insect Repellent

3. Leech socks

4. Hat

5. Sunglasses

6. Lightweight and comfortable clothing

7. Trekking shoes

8. Water bottle

9. Snacks

10. Raincoat or poncho

11. First aid kit

12. Camera

13. Binoculars

14. Map of the park

Entrance fee

The ticket for a boat that takes you across the Dong Nai River costs 60.000 VND. There is no other way to get inside, so you must take it. The crossing literally takes one minute or even less.

Renting a bicycle

There are several options to rent a bike: 30.000 VND for 1 hour, 100.000 VND for 4 hours or 150.000 VND for 8 hours. Unfortunately, the bicycles are total rubbish so take your time and choose wisely. The rental place is just to the left of the Visitor Center.

Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
Very bad quality rental bicycle

Do-it-yourself activities

Tung Tree

In the park, there are many tall trees which are hundreds of years old and Tung Tree is one of them, with a height of 20 meters and a width of 10 meters. The roots of the trees sit on the ground and are absolutely breathtaking. When walking through the jungle and approaching this tree, you can feel like Tomb Raider!

Ben Cu Rapids

Nothing too spectacular, at least in the dry season. You can walk around the stones to get closer to the river but unfortunately, the area was full of rubbish. Very sad view, especially inside the National Park. It seems like rangers are too busy doing nothing instead of moving their asses to clean a bit!

Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
Rapids on Dong Nai River
Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
The whole area looks impressive from the sky

Uncle Dong Tree

Another impressive tree. This time it is a genus of redwood tree with 2 meters diameter.

Botanical Garden

It’s a series of paths through the jungle, very close to the riverside. The names of plants and trees are included on the boards. Very pleasant walk!

Heaven’s Rapids

The series of rapids is located about 12 km away from the Visitor Center. The road to get there is a bit bumpy, especially on low-quality rental bicycles. You can easily do it together with other sights on the way: Tung Tree, Ben Cu Rapids, Botanical Garden, and Uncle Dong Tree (small detour needed). Unfortunately, similar to Ben Cu Rapids, there were lots of plastic bottles in the water. It isn’t my definition of heaven!

Crocodile Lake

This is the classic trekking route in Cat Tien and is not to be missed. Take a bicycle for about 9 km on the main park road to the beginning of the trail. Then hike 5 km to reach the lake. You might see giant trees, rare peafowl, water birds, monkeys and of course Siamese crocodiles. And if you don’t see, for sure you will hear a lot of wildlife around you. This was certainly the best hike in the park, even though the entrance fee of 250.000 VND at the lake seemed to be too high. You can stay overnight at the Ranger Station with advance reservations which of course will give you priceless opportunities to watch wildlife in the night and at dusk.

Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
Crocodile Lake

Garlic-Shaped Lagerstroemia Tree

From Crocodile Lake, the unpaved road continues for another 3 km to these unique trees. At the end of April, the forest here was full of butterflies making the whole ride even more amazing!

6 Rooted Intersecting Ficus

On the way to or from Crocodile Lake, do not forget to stop to see this wonder of nature. I felt like inside the Lord of the Rings movie, only waiting for that tree to move and grab me with its roots.

Bear and Gibbon Rescue Center

It is located just next to the visitor centre and is free to visit. However, it looks a bit creepy. The gate was open but I couldn’t see any staff member around so I just walked around. I couldn’t see any moon bears or sun bears inside but there were a few gibbons in the cages. I hope they are treated well!

Ta Lai Village

The place is located 12 km from the Visitor Center and is populated by Ma, Stieng, and Tay people. The Ma and Stieng people are the original inhabitants of the Park’s Core Zone. Here you can experience daily life in a rural community. You can come here on a bicycle following the western bank of the Dong Nai River or on a motorbike following the eastern bank.

Activities

Wild Gibbon Trek

The most famous activity in the park brought me a lot of mixed feelings. The tours are limited to 4 people per day and we started at 5 AM in the morning when a boat took us to the visitor centre where we were greeted by our guide. Then we walked to the area next to Tung Tree, where we made a short stop and then continued deeper into the jungle. Soon, we were able to hear incredibly loud sounds made by the gibbons so we followed in this direction. The whole singing spectacle lasted about 10-15 minutes and then it got quiet. We could see some gibbons eating high in the trees. After a while, we came back to the visitor centre and the tour finished. Overall, it was great to hear and see gibbons in the wild. The tour took about 2 hours and cost 1.150.000 VND. Was it worth the time? Definitely yes. Was it worth the money? Definitely not. I found the tour highly overpriced and the guides also weren’t too eager to share some information about gibbons and wildlife in general.

Boat ride to Ta Lai

If you like water and birds, it is recommended to take a boat trip on the Dong Nai River. The trip downstream to Tai Lai Village is a great way to see the park from the waterfront. There is not much to do in the village itself so the whole activity is rather about sightseeing from the water and not about the final destination. The round trip takes about 3 hours.

Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
Boat on the Dong Nai River
Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
Dong Nai River

Night Safari

Night spotting is the easiest way to see mammals. Ride in an open-air truck through the jungle to observe wild animals such as deer, wild pigs, snakes, porcupines, gaur and weasels as they forage for food on the grasslands or in bushes during the night.

Dao Tien Engangered Primate Species Center

Dao Tien Island is just 5 minutes upstream from the boat landing. The centre specializes in the rescue, rehabilitation and release of endangered primates naturally found in the area of the park: golden-cheeked gibbons, black-shanked douc, silvered langur and pygmy loris. Most of the animals who are helped at this centre were victims of the illegal wildlife trade. The local guide will explain more about their stories and the job that the centre does. At the time of my visit (April 2023), there was only one tour per day and it was at 8 AM, so you need to be at the visitor centre at around 7.45 AM.

Final thoughts

Even though the time in nature is always great, I left Cat Tien National Park with mixed feelings. In my opinion, the number one attraction called Wild Gibbon Trek is highly overpriced. Moreover, I saw rubbish all over Ben Cu Rapids and Heaven’s Rapids. I also saw many park rangers who didn’t do anything besides chilling in the hammock. Then, where does all the money earned from park attractions goes? They could just walk around ONCE A WEEK to collect the trash if there is any. But yeah, what’s the point? It’s Vietnam and no one cares anyway.

Welcome to Luang Prabang, the heart of Laos! I was visiting the city for over the week in March 2023 and at the beginning I was quite surprised that the tourist hotspot was there, and not in the capital city of Vientiane. After the first day of sightseeing, it became clear why.

Located in the northern part of the country, at the confluence of the Mekong River and the Nam Khan River, this charming city is a vibrant mix of culture, history, and natural beauty. From its ancient temples and breathtaking mountains to its delicious cuisine and hospitable locals, Luang Prabang has a lot to offer. The city was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1995.

In this blog post, we’ll explore the must-see attractions and activities, as well as tips on where to stay and eat. Let’s go!

When to go?

The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.

I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or at the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution!

How to get there?

Luang Prabang is probably the easiest city in the country to get to. Buses, trains, flights, or even boats, all of those are possible.

Buses

You will have no problems finding buses or mini buses going from all the other major cities to Luang Prabang. Check the latest schedule with your guesthouse or local travel agent. You may also book your ticket at 123Go.Asia.

Train

Laos-China Railway offers ticket booking for 6 stations in Laos, including Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Muang Xay, Luang Namtha, and Boten.

Flights

The airport is very very small but it operates domestic flights to Vientiane and Pakse and a few international ones to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, and Siem Reap.

Slow boat from Thailand

The 2-day journey costs 210.000 LAK and takes you from the Laos border town of Huay Xai all the way down to Luang Prabang. The boat stops for the night in Pakbeng so you need to book accommodation there.

Where to stay?

I spent in Luang Prabang quite a bit of time as it was the starting and finishing point of my North East motorbike loop. During this time, I stayed in three different guesthouses.

The first one was Beauty Season 1935 Hotel. Nothing too fancy but a pleasant stay. I didn’t like the entrance door to the room with a kind of wooden shutter so you can hear everything from the outside and probably people outside could hear you talking inside the room until late hours at night. Not ideal for digital nomads to have Skype calls.

The second and best one was Chaliya Boutique Garden. Comfortable room with fast internet and free bikes available for exploration of the city. The only problem was the price (25 – 30 USD per night) and I also didn’t like the fact that everything was quoted in USD and not in local currency.

The last one was PP Guesthouse where are arrived without booking. You should get a double room for around 12 USD, including a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, during 5 days of staying there, the room was never cleaned and I had to empty the rubbish bin myself as the teenage staff was too busy with their mobile phones.

How long to stay?

There are a lot of nice things to do in and around town. I would suggest a minimum of 2 full days not only to check many temples in the historical center but also to visit Kuangsi Waterfall or even the very calm villages on the other side of the Mekong River. It’s so beautiful that there’s no point in rushing!

Where to rent a motorbike?

Most hotels and guesthouses rent themselves or can organize a motorbike for you. If you want to do it yourself, try Anousay Motorbike Rental. They are a little bit pricier but have a decent selection of bikes. This should be also your place for renting bikes for longer trips to other provinces, as not all rental companies allow doing that.

Temples

Luang Prabang is a major center of Buddhism in Southeast Asia and home to over 30 Buddhist temples and monasteries, many of which have played an important role in the spiritual and cultural development of the region. Spending a day visiting them all is a must-do experience and it really is enjoyable. One small tip from my side: wear flip-flops or sandals as you will need to take off your shoes very often!

Phousi Hill

The top of the hill is a sacred site for Buddhists and contains a number of temples and shrines, including Wat Phousi, a temple dedicated to the guardian spirit of Luang Prabang. From the summit of the hill, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the city with rivers and the surrounding mountains. If you want to take pice photos, arrive early as the place gets ridiculously busy at sunset time.

Wat Xieng Thong

This best-known temple in the town dates back to the 16th century and is renowned for its exquisite murals and architecture. There’s a stunning ‘tree of life’ mosaic set on its western exterior wall.

Other temples worth visiting

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham

Wat Xieng Mouane

Wat Pakkhan

Wat Souvannakhili

Wat Manorom

Wat Ho Pha Bang

Wat Pa Huak

Wat Siphoutthabath

Wat Wisunarat

Luang Prabang in Laos
A temple run day in Luang Prabang is a must!
Luang Prabang in Laos
Wat Wisunarat
Luang Prabang in Laos
Inside Wat Wisunarat

Almsgiving

Almsgiving, or Tak Bat, is an important daily ritual in the city of Luang Prabang, Laos. Every morning before dawn, hundreds of orange-clad Buddhist monks descend the streets of the old city to receive alms from local people. Alms are typically given in the form of food, such as sticky rice and other offerings, which are then shared among the monks. The ritual has its roots in the Buddhist tradition of dana, or generosity, which is believed to bring merit to the giver. It is also a way for communities to show their respect and reverence for the monks.

Sakkaline Road is the most popular place for observing the activity. Just walk past the temples at around 6 AM. Many tourists want to participate in a ritual so sometimes it all turns into a circus of photographing everything and everyone. Be mindful and respectful.

Sights

Royal Palace

It was built in 1904 by King Sisavang Vong and was the residence of the royal family for many years. Today, the palace is a national museum where visitors can explore a variety of exhibits including royal artefacts, photographs, and sculptures. The palace also contains a library with a vast collection of traditional Lao manuscripts, as well as a throne room with a magnificent throne made of carved ivory.

Luang Prabang in Laos
Royal Palace

UXO Information Center

UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) Lao is a non-profit organization in Laos that works to clear landmines, cluster munitions, and other explosive remnants of war from the country. They are also actively educating the public about the dangers of UXO, providing assistance to victims of UXO accidents, and advocating for increased international support for UXO clearance and victim assistance in Laos.

In the information centre, you can see examples of UXO but the most interesting and shocking are probably short videos shown in a small multimedia room. Similar centres can be found in Vientiane and Phonsavan.

Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre

The museum showcases a wide variety of artefacts (musical instruments, outfits, etc.) from traditional Lao culture, with a particular focus on the ethnic minorities of the country.

Night Market

It’s a perfect place to buy beautiful souvenirs as well as get dinner. Foreign and local food is sold on the main square while purely local and delicious food can be enjoyed in the small alley just on the other side of the road. Try grilled fish, papaya salad, and a wide selection of sausages, of course together with sticky rice!

Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre

Founded in 2001, it is a social enterprise that works with local Lao artisans to produce quality handmade textiles, crafts, and home décor items and by that build sustainable livelihoods. You can join hands-on workshops to learn about traditional weaving and dyeing techniques or simply visit a souvenir shop and buy something beautiful there.

Heuan Chan Heritage House

An authentic traditional longhouse on tree-trunk stilts that acts as a small museum on the lifestyle of Luang Prabang, a cafe, and a handicraft centre.

Across the Nam Khan River

When the water level is low in the dry season, the Nam Khan River can be crossed over a bamboo bridge. It is an experience in itself. It’s best to do it in the late afternoon, around sunset time. On the other bank, check out Wat Xiengleck and relax at the Sunset Viewpoint.

Luang Prabang in Laos
Wat Xiengleck
Luang Prabang in Laos
Wat Xiengleck

Across the Mekong River

The public ferry can be found behind the Royal Palace. On the other side of the river, there is a series of nice and quiet monasteries: Wat Xiang Maen, Wat Chomphet, Wat Long Koon, Wat Tham Sakkalin, Wat Had Siaw, Wat Nong Sa Keo, Wat Khokphap. Bicycles and motorbikes can be taken to the ferry but the area is perfectly walkable too.

Activities

Big Brother Mouse

Big Brother Mouse is a non-profit organization in Luang Prabang, Laos that provides children in rural villages with access to books, education, and literacy programs. You can join one of their 2 hours conversation session with local students to help them learn English and familiarize yourself with Lao culture in the best possible way. There is also an option of full-day volunteering at school from Monday to Friday.

Mekong Sunset Cruise

One afternoon I decided to go on Khopfa Mekong Cruise. A very nice and relaxing cruise on a two-floor boat with sitting areas, resting chairs, hammocks, good relaxing music, a bar, and an option to order food. The trip lasts for 2 hours and starts between 4.15 PM and 5.30 PM depending on the season and the sunset time. The ticket costs 15 USD (~260.000 LAK).

Luang Prabang in Laos
One of many boats on the Mekong River
Luang Prabang in Laos
Great to see the sunset from the water perspective

Cooking classes

Bamboo Tree Restaurant and Tamarind Restaurant are just next door and both offer hands-on lessons in preparing traditional Lao dishes. Learn everything from how to buy ingredients in the local markets to the basics of Lao cuisine.

Trekking

A trekking itinerary in Luang Prabang may include a visit to the Kuang Si Waterfall, a visit to the hill tribe villages in the mountains, and a trip to some of the local caves. Trekking can be done either on foot or by bike and there are many different routes to choose from. Get in touch with Tiger Trail Travel or Discover Laos Today and ask for details.

Outside of town

Kuang Si Waterfalls

One of the most beautiful waterfalls in South East Asia. The water cascades down a series of limestone tiers and creates stunning pools of turquoise-blue water. You can’t swim in the main pool but at the other ones down the stream. The 1.5km trail leads to the top of the falls where you can take a wooden raft to the water source. It’s a nice hike but the raft experience was a slight waste of time though :)The area is also home to Asian Black Bear Rescue Centre and Butterfly Park. The ticket costs 25.000 LAK and the electric car takes you to the entrance to the nature area.

Luang Prabang in Laos
Spectacular Kuang Si Waterfall
Luang Prabang in Laos
Plenty of great swimming options
Luang Prabang in Laos
And another falls down the stream
Luang Prabang in Laos
Asian Black Bear in the nearby rescue centre

Tat Sae Waterfall

Absolutely don’t come here in the dry season as there is nothing to see. From the parking area, you need to take a boat to the waterfall but the guys sell tickets not even mentioning that there is no water. Total waste of time!

The Living Land Company

Definitely one of the most memorable experiences on my trip to Laos. You will learn the traditional method of growing, harvesting, and preparing rice from end to end. It involves getting dirty and I loved it! The staff is very friendly, speaks good English and will be happy to take photos of you.

The tour without lunch costs 30 USD and with lunch 40 USD. It’s well worth it! They can pick you up at your hotel or provide a discount if you decide to come by yourself.

Nahm Dong Park

They offer activities like zip-lining and tree-top guided walks. Moreover, there’s a large area with options for hiking through the forest and swimming in secluded waterfall pools. The road leading towards the park is in quite bad condition so be careful.

Laos Buffalo Dairy

You can join quite a pricey guided tour (about 8 USD) to be able to pet and learn about pigs, rabbits, buffalo, and goats as well as try buffalo dairy products. If you don’t want to join the tour, they sell ice cream by the roadside, but the taste was nothing special.

Pak Ou Caves

The Pak Ou Caves are located along the Mekong River about 25 km upstream of Luang Prabang. You can reach them by a scenic two-hour boat trip or by road and then take a short boat ride to the other bank. The caves are filled with thousands of gold lacquered Buddha statues of various shapes and sizes that have been placed there over the centuries. I would say that the area and the way to the caves are more interesting than the caves themselves.