The small town near the Laos border was a scene of the famous Battle of Dien Bien Phu fought between the French and the Viet Minh. It began in March 1954 and ended almost two months later in May, with the French losing their final battle and Vietnam becoming a free country. It also turned out to be the beginning of the end of French colonialism.
The French began an operation to place their soldiers at Dien Bien Phu, up in the hills northwest of Tonkin, close to the border with Laos. The purpose was to cut off Viet Minh supply lines into that country and draw the Viet Minh into a major confrontation in order to defeat them. However, it was not Viet Minh who ended up defeated.
Under the leadership of General Vo Nguyen Giap, Viet Minh surrounded and besieged the French. The key to success seemed to be the ability to move bulky weapons through difficult terrain by individual men and women up the rear slopes of the mountains. They dug tunnels through the mountains and arranged the guns to target the French position. It all surprised their opponents and the French garrison was overrun in May after a two-month siege. Most of the foreign forces surrendered.
In 1954 the Geneva Accords were signed. France agreed to withdraw its forces from all its colonies in French Indochina and Vietnam was divided at the 17th parallel, with control of the north given to the Viet Minh as the Democratic Republic of Vietnam under the leadership of Ho Chi Minh, and the south becoming the State of Vietnam, under Emperor Bao Dai. It was to prevent Ho Chi Minh from gaining control of the entire country.
When to go?
In theory, the best time to visit Dien Bien Phu is in spring or early summer so from April to June. I visited at the beginning of April and even though the temperature was pleasant, the air pollution from agriculture burnouts made the whole experience horrible. The visibility was extremely low. I don’t know if every year is the same, but you may consider doing your health a favour and coming in May or June instead.
Keep in mind that there is Victory Day on May 7th and there will certainly be a lot of visitors coming over. Book your accommodation well ahead if you plan to visit on that occasion.
How to get there?
Dien Bien Phu is located in the northwest of Vietnam, near the border with Laos. There is an airport with infrequent flights from Hanoi. For bus connection check 12Go.Asia.
Where to stay?
I spent a night at Guesthouse 51.It’s an okayish place for one night but for 7 EUR (180.000 VND) don’t expect too much luxury. Definitely, some more cleaning could have been done.
How long to stay?
You can walk around the town in half a day. I arrived in the afternoon and left in the late morning on the next day. If you want to visit some sights outside of the town (such as Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters), rent a motorbike and stay a full day.
What to see
Dien Bien Phu Museum
It was opened in 1984 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the battle of Dien Bien Phu. The exhibition is quite big but most of the information is in Vietnamese. You may only find short English descriptions under the photographs. There is an interesting panorama painting on the top floor, which is 132m long, 20.5m high, and 42m in diameter. 4,500 characters are included in the painting which was done by nearly 100 painters. The process took nearly 3 years, from November 2019 to May 2022.
Museum building from the outsideA part of panorama painting……and one more
A1 Hill
It was the last of the French strong points, also known as Eliane, to fall to Viet Minh. I found this place to be the most interesting. You can see some trenches, bunkers, tanks, bomb craters, and pillboxes but there is no English explanation. Entry ticket: 20.000 VND.
On the way to the top of A1 hillBomb crater at A1 hill
Cemetery
Located just opposite the museum, this small cemetery is the final resting place of the Vietnamese soldiers, who died in the battle of Dien Bien Phu. The identities of most of them are unknown.
The memorial site at the cemeteryGraves of soldiers who died in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu
Victory Monument
A huge bronze sculpture honours those who fought and lost their lives in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu. It sits at the top of the hill and can be accessed by road from the back or on foot by climbing the high staircase with nice views over the city. Entry ticket: 20.000 VND.
Bunker of Colonel de Castries
Colonel de Castries was in charge of the seven French posts at Dien Bien Phu and was captured at this bunker on 7th May 1954. Entry ticket: 20.000 VND and the visit won’t take longer than a few minutes.
Bunker of Colonel de CastriesInside the bunker
French War Memorial
A nearly unnoticeable French War Memorial was erected on the 30th anniversary of the battle and commemorates the 3000 French troops buried under the rice paddies. It is just south of the de Castries bunker but the entrance gate was closed on the day of my visit.
Muong Thanh Bridge
The old Muong Thanh Bridge across the Nam Ron River was erected by the French. It is 40 meters long and 5 meters wide. Today it is closed to cars but motorbikes can still go over it.
Market
The busiest area of the town is located just nearby Moung Thanh Bridge, on the east bank of the Rom River. Great spot for photography and observing local minority groups. You may notice a lot of women with buns on top of their heads. Those are representatives of the Black Thai ethnic group who mainly live in the provinces of Hoa Binh, Lai Chau, Dien Bien, Son La, Lao Cai, Yen Bai, Thanh Hoa, and Nghe An. Married women do their hair in a bun style while unmarried ones do not tie their hair into a bun but wear an elaborately embroidered scarf.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABusy Saturday morning at the local market
Other interesting places in the area
Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters
The site hosts a series of underground rooms hidden in the forest where General Vo Nguyen Giap had his headquarters, made a plan, and commanded the attacks against the French. Very interesting site and it’s fun to walk inside the tunnels. The drive from Dien Bien Phu takes about 40 minutes. Entry is free of charge.
The Ban Gioc is undoubtedly the largest and most beautiful waterfall in Vietnam. It is 30 meters high and 300 meters wide with the water flowing from 3 levels. It is fed by the Quay Son River and is part of the Cao Bang Non-Nuoc Geopark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The location is directly on the border of Vietnam and China, so you can see Vietnamese tourists on one side of the falls, and Chinese on the other. They both take rafts to get closer to the massive main falls of Bang Gioc. On the Vietnamese side, some other small waterfalls can be admired to the left of their big brother.
I visited Ban Gioc in March 2023, approaching on a motorbike from the town of Cao Bang, which is on the Vietnamese side and the post describes that experience.
The visit to Ban Gioc is another example when the destination itself wasn’t the only beautiful thing to see. The whole ride there, through the countryside filled with karsts, observing local minorities doing their daily work, was simply mindblowing.
The people of the Cao Bang region
Costs
At the moment of writing this article, the ticket to Ban Gioc Waterfall costs 40,000 VND per person. Motorbike parking is an additional 10,000 VND and going on a raft is 50,000 VND.
Rafts
If you want to get closer to the falls, it can be done on the raft. The journey takes around 10-15 minutes and costs 50,000 VND. You will get the chance to take nice photos from different angles than those on the land plus you will feel the power of the falling water even more.
Rafts everywhere!
When to go?
The waterfall can be visited at any time of the year, but depending on the season, it can be more or less impressive. The good point is that it never dries up.
The wet season in the Cao Bang region lasts from June to September and the dry season from October to May. The wet season obviously means more water and more breathtaking views. However, the water gets a dark brown colour and you won’t be able to get too close on the rafts, at least if you plan to stay dry.
I visited at the end of March and Ban Gioc looked wonderful, even though the weather was cloudy and quite cold. The additional benefit was that it wasn’t as busy as it usually gets in high season. I was perfectly satisfied with my visit.
To sum up, don’t be discouraged to visit Ban Gioc in the dry season. It is a magnificent place and you will certainly like it. If you want to see the falls at their best, plan your trip at the end of the rainy season, around August and September.
Top-down shot of Ban Gioc
How to get there?
Most people use Cao Bang as a base for a trip to Bang Gioc, and so did I. From there, you have three options: renting a motorbike, taking a public bus, or arranging a taxi. You may also think of joining an organized tour from Hanoi, which usually covers Ba Be Lake and other interesting sights en route.
The pure beauty of the waterfalls
Motorbike
It has always been my preferable way of travelling in Asia. There are a few decent rental places such as Green Riders House. Alternatively, you can ask for a bike in your hotel or homestay and certainly, they will help you to arrange one. Motorbike will give you the possibility to visit not only Ban Gioc Waterfall but also other attractions in the region, such as Núi Mắt Thần Mountain.
Bus
The minibus goes directly to the falls and costs 70,000 VND for the two-hour trip. It leaves frequently but I suggest asking about the current schedule at your accommodation.
Taxi
It only makes sense if you travel in a bigger group. Always negotiate with the driver and ask at your accommodation what’s the appropriate price.
Where to stay?
I spent a night at GiaBinh Homestay in Cao Bang and it was easily one of the best homestays during my 5-month Vietnamese road trip. The room was clean, spacious, and nicely decorated. The host immediately made me feel at home and shared some useful tips about my next destination.
If you don’t want to stay in Cao Bang, there are also nice homestays in stone houses in the village not far from Ban Gioc Waterfall.
Locals hanging out around the waterfall
How long to stay?
Ban Gioc Waterfall and other attractions in that area can be easily discovered during a 1-day trip, especially if you travel on a motorbike. It’s also doable by bus but probably you need to limit the trip to the waterfall and nearby cave only.
Other interesting places in the area
I recommend making use of your day and doing a loop in that area. Start in Cao Bang and follow the road QL3 and then DT206 all the way to Ban Gioc. Then visit Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda and the Tiger Cave. After that head back on the road DT206 until Trung Khanh, where you take a turn off to the road DT211 leading towards Nui Mat Than Mountain and Thang Hen Lake. In the end, join back the road DT205 and then QL3 bringing you back to Cao Bang.
The itinerary can be easily done on a motorbike but you need to start early. If you travel by bus, probably you need to limit yourself to Ban Gioc, Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda, and the Tiger Cave which are all in the same region.
Landscapes of Cao Bang region
Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda
The temple was built on the top of the mountain opposite the waterfall, from where you can admire the beautiful panoramic view of Ban Gioc. It’s about15 minutes uphill walk.
Tiger Cave / Nguom Ngao Cave
The cave is located about 4km from Ban Gioc Waterfall, so can be easily visited even without a motorbike. It was created by an underground river and was previously used as shelter during the war with China in 1979. Today visitors have two options for the visit: a shorter one which takes about half an hour and costs 45.000 VND and a longer one, which takes about 1,5 hours and costs 195.000 VND. If you choose the longer one, the guide will accompany you and you will be provided with a headlamp, water shoes, and a reflective vest. The cave is wonderfully lit and after visiting the caves in Phong Nha, Tiger Cave or Nguom Ngao Cave was my second favourite in Vietnam.
Inside the TIger Cave
Nui Mat Than / Angel Eye Mountain
The mountain is truly a hidden paradise. To get there, put Cao Bang Camping in your navigation. The narrow road through the village becomes a dirt road, leading down into an amazing valley. This mountain is also called the Angel Eye mountain, due to the huge hole near its top. There is a small waterfall to the right of the plain and camping is available. Must be an amazing experience, especially with the sky full of stars! In the rainy season, the lake is created in the central area of the valley, probably making it even more photogenic.
Thang Hen Lake
Located right next to Nui Mat Than Mountain. You can take a boat trip or simply sit down and relax by the water’s edge observing nearby mountains that are being reflected in the lake.
Cao Bang
Small and calm city, without major tourist attractions but pleasant to walk around. It’s mostly an overnight stopover for most of the people heading to Ban Gioc Waterfall.
Pho Kim Dong Street is the place where locals hang out in the evenings and where you will find tasty street food. It’s also nice to stroll around the riverside of Song Bang.
Northern Vietnam is famous for its capital Hanoi, mountainous areas, and incredible Ha Long Bay. However, if you are looking for a place with sandy beaches and relatively clean seawater to relax far away from tourism madness, Co To Island in Quang Ninh province could be a smart choice. You can be sure, that there won’t be many other foreigners besides you, if any!
When to go?
Even though the island is reachable for the whole year, I strongly recommend going during the summer and autumn months, meaning from April to August. The temperature is about 30oC and the visibility should be fine. It’s also the best time to enjoy beaches and swim in the sea.
I was on Co To Island in late March. The temperature was pleasant but the sky was constantly cloudy so even nearby islands weren’t perfectly visible.
Morning hours are the best for photography!
How to get there?
Slow boats and speed boats depart from Cai Rong Port. The slow boat costs 100.000 VND and takes between 3 – 4 hours. Speed boat costs 250.000 VND and takes between 1,5 – 2 hours. The schedule may vary depending on the month that you will be traveling.
I arrived at Cai Rong Port around 11:30 AM and was lucky to get into the slow boat at 12:00 PM. The boat was packed with people and packages and wooden benches were super uncomfortable to sit on but it was still quite doable. I mean, it’s 100.000 VND, so don’t expect luxury. At least I had the possibility to stand at the back of the boat, taking in the magnificent scenery en route. The trip was mostly smooth but the waves got bigger in the open sea section between Quan Lan Island and Co To Island. The ticket fee is collected when arriving at Co To Island.
Flying over Co To Island
I took the speed boat back to the mainland and it involved some drama. There were two boats on that day: 8:00 AM and 4:00 PM. I really wanted to get the morning one to have enough time to ride the bike to Lang Son. I thought that similar to a slow boat, the tickets can be purchased on board. Instead, I was told to go to the ticket office which was at the entrance to the pier. I had only 15 minutes left before the departure and then it came up that all the tickets were sold out. The sales lady was really fighting hard with the captain to push me in the boat but she failed, and I had to stay on the island for a few more hours, leaving at 4:00 PM.
The speed boat was comfortable but it didn’t give the chance to get out on the deck and the scenery could be enjoyed only through the window.
Unfortunately, the skies weren’t clearRocks around Van Chai Beach
Where to stay?
I arrived without a reservation at Hung Phoung Hoteland took a private room for 350.000 VND after some negotiating. They also organized a motorbike for another 150.000 VND. The room was clean, WiFi was good and the view from the window was pleasant, but the bed was one of the hardest I experienced during the trip to Vietnam.
How long to stay?
One full day should be enough to ride a bike around the island and chill here and there. You may want to stay one more night in summer when the weather is perfect and the skies are clear. Then, you will get the chance to discover nearby islands too.
Tinh Yeu Beach
How to get around?
The best is to rent a motorbike from your hotel. It cost me 150.000 VND per day. If you travel in a bigger group, most of the hotels have or can arrange electric vehicles with a driver.
Interesting sights
Cau May Cliffs
Definitely the most beautiful place on the island, especially during sunrise or sunset hours. There are small paths around the edges of the cliffs. Very photogenic place and a lot of people come here dressed nicely for photo sessions.
What a cliffs!The most beautiful place on Co To Island
Beaches
There are 3 main beaches: Tinh Yeu Beach, Hong Van Beach, and Van Chai Beach. Unfortunately, all of them have problems with rubbish, especially plastic. Van Chai Beach seemed to be the cleanest one, while Hong Ban Beach provides nice views of the opposite islands.
Hong Van BeachAerial view to Van Chai BeachVan Chai Beach
Lighthouse
The lighthouse was built in the late 19th century and is located on top of a mountain, 100 m above sea level. It can be reached on a motorbike, following a narrow road that climbs through dense forest. The lighthouse tower itself can’t be climbed, but there is an observation deck on the top of the nearby building. The panorama is magnificent! Entrance fee: 10.00 VND.
Truong Xuan Lagoon
It’s not easy to get a proper look at the lagoon but if you follow the road along Hong Van Beach until the end, there will be a small resort. It was empty when I arrived, so I could freely walk around to enjoy the view. Alternatively, you may check out the view from Thanh Lan Pier or the Lighthouse Viewpoint.
Truong Xuan Lagoon
Nearby Islands
You can also arrange a boat at your hotel and go for a trip to other islands around, such as Co To Con Island or Thanh Lan Island. There is not much more to do than relax on the beach and swim but that’s the point.
A small village located on the west bank of the Nam Ou River attracts more and more tourists who want to experience rural life. Narrow footpaths ascend steep limestone cliffs to provide you with panoramic views. There are also caves and fantastic multiple-day hiking opportunities to even smaller villages, with an overnight at the atmospheric homestay.
When to go?
The best time to visit Laos is between November and April, as it’s the dry season. However, try to avoid February and March if possible. It doesn’t rain, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
How to get there?
From Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw it’s a bit over 140 km and you will need to get a bus to get there. There are many travel agents on the streets of Luang Prabang or simply ask in your hotel and they will set you up. Expect a travel time of about 3.5 – 4 hours and an approximate cost of 200,000 LAK. For bus connections, you may also check 12Go.Asia.
You can also get there by boat from Muang Khua, which must be a memorable experience. A shared boat with other passengers should cost about 150.000 LAK.
Nong Khiaw can be reached by boat from Muang Khua
Where to stay?
I stayed two first nights at Nam Ou Riverlodge, which is nicely located just at the riverside. The bed was comfortable and there was a mosquito net which I always appreciate 🙂 The hot shower was fine, though the pressure was quite weak. The room costs about 220.000 LAK per night. The owner also organizes all kinds of tours, so if you want to do a hike, you won’t have to look any further.
Once I was passing by Nong Khiaw for the second time, they didn’t have an available room so I stayed at Arthith Guesthouse. The views from the terrace were even better, and the room was clean and cozy. It was slightly more expensive than Nam Ou Riverlodge (300.000 LAK) but a delicious breakfast was included in the price.
You may notice that there are not many accommodation options available on booking.com or agoda.com. It’s pretty normal in Laos and it’s not because all the rooms are booked out. The owners simply don’t care about advertising in this way. To get the best deal, check the reviews of guesthouses or hotels on Google Maps, choose a few that you like, and then visit them asking about the room and the price.
Nam Ou river slowly flows past Nong Khiaw
How long to stay?
It depends if you are a hiking enthusiast or not. I am, so it took me two full days to visit all the viewpoints and one of the caves in Nong Khiaw. I spent additional two days on the hiking trip with an overnight stay in the small village and a visit to Muang Ngoy and Tad Mook Waterfall on the way back. But longer treks are available too. I would say that you should plan a minimum of 3-4 days to fully discover the area. It’s so beautiful that there’s no point in rushing!
Aerial view of Nong Khiaw
Viewpoints
Sleeping Lady Viewpoint
The first spot that I visited upon arrival. The way up at midday was challenging and very sweaty, but totally worth about one hour climb. The first viewpoint is halfway so it’s a good place to rest for a while. Don’t forget to stay hydrated! From the second viewpoint, the wide panorama of surging karsts and mountains, with the river flowing far below is simply amazing! I had the whole place for myself but probably more people came up for sunset.
Panorama from on side of the Sleeping Lady Viewpoint……and from the other one
Som Nang Viewpoint
On the same day, I still had the energy for one more climb and made it for sunset here. It was much easier than going up to the Sleeping Lady Viewpoint. In fact, it was the easiest of all viewpoints in the Nong Khiaw area. The start point is just past the bridge’s eastern end and there’s an entry fee of 20,000 LAK. It should take around 30 minutes to reach the lookout and the trail is well-developed with stairs and handrails in place. There’s a large viewing platform at the top, with benches for a comfortable sunset experience. If you want some drinks, get them before you start an ascent 🙂
Waiting for sunset at Som Nang ViewpointUnfortunately, there was dense haze from agricultural burnouts
Nong Khiaw Viewpoint / Pha Daeng Peak
This viewpoint is positioned above the Som Nang Viewpoint so provides an even better panorama but it’s a more challenging hike, taking about 1-1,5 hours to reach. There is an entry fee of 20,000 LAK. There is also an option of camping at the top.
Phar Kew Lom Viewpoint
Without a doubt, the most challenging viewpoint to get to. Even though I was climbing early in the morning when it was still cloudy and cool, my T-shirt was totally soaked with sweat. At the top, I was rewarded with an incredible view. At the summit is a small platform where you can even camp for the night. It must be really amazing experience which I will certainly do next time! You should count at least 3 hours for comfortable ascent and descent. Entry fee 20,000 LAK.
Trekking
Nong Khiaw is a very popular starting point for 2-3 day hikes with overnight in the homestay in small villages. If you are short on time, 1-day activities are available too. I booked my experience at my accommodation, but you may also to it in the Nong Khiaw Adventure Tours office, on the corner just before the bridge.
Day 1
Once the group was complete (8 people), we got big bottles of water and took a tuk-tuk for a short ride to the beginning of a trail at Ban Ving Kham village. The first section was rather easy, but we were walking on mainly open terrain on a sunny day, so it was pretty hot. We arrived at the village where we took a rest and had lunch. It was also a good opportunity to take some nice photos of the wonderful local people.
Nong Khiaw, Laos
After the break. we continued uphill, which was probably the most difficult part of the entire trek. It was really hot and sweaty and probably the fact that we did the ascent just after lunch didn’t help either. At the top of the hill, we made another extended break to take photos and simply enjoy a super scenic viewpoint.
The last stretch was down and then along the river, finally ending in the village. Our mattresses were on the floor, one by one, and over them was a mosquito net. We went to the river to swim a bit and above all, to clean ourselves as it was the only opportunity to do so on that day. The water was cold but after a tiring day, it felt good. Plus the smell of sweat was at least partially gone 🙂 I smell really bad after the whole day hiking in hot weather. The dinner was fine too, with rice and some traditional dishes to share, including pumpkin soup, laap, or tofu. After dinner, we tried some rice whiskey and spent time sitting around a fireplace and learning how to make bamboo baskets.
The village was very much alive so walking around provided a lot of cool photo opportunities and brought many smiles. The children were especially excited! I felt really grateful to have my online work and to be able to visit such places where time seems to have stopped.
Overall, it was a pretty long and challenging hike on that day. To be honest, more difficult than I expected, but of course, it was fully satisfactory! The village was just at the riverside and the homestay had a nice vibe.
Day 2
We started the day with delicious rice porridge with papaya. Luckily, extra portions were available! While others were packing, I still had some time to walk around the village and take extra photos. So friendly people living there! Then, we went down to the riverbank and boarded the boat that took us to Muang Ngoy.
Inside the homestay
We started sightseeing with a climb to the Phanoi Viewpoint. Nothing too difficult but it’s pretty steep and hot so don’t forget your water. The panorama of the Nam OuRiver was unbelievably beautiful and totally worth the effort. On the way back, we visited Phanoi Cave. After seeing the caves in Central Vietnam, others don’t make a super big impression on me.
Panorama from Phanoi Viewpoint from one side……and from another side
From there, we walked to the center of the village, bought some snacks there, and boarded the boat again to get to Tad Mook Waterfall near Sop Keng Village. It was about time to eat lunch, so we stopped at Yensabai Organic Farm and got some fried noodles packed inside a banana leaf. The organic farm seemed to be a nice place too and there were some people volunteering in a bar and/or staying for the night in tents. The remaining hike to the waterfall was very pleasant. First walking along beautifully green ricefields and then through the forest. Unfortunately, it seemed that all the groups arrived at a similar time, so the place got way too crowded. Despite that, it is a beautiful waterfall.
Ricefields on the way to the waterfallGrowing rice and Tad Mook Waterfall
We hiked back to the boat, which took us a bit further down the river, and then we changed to kayaks. The paddling time to Nong Khiaw was probably around 30 – 40 minutes. Not too long but just enough as I could feel already a bit tired from two intensive days. The sun was getting lower and lower so it was a very scenic time to be on the river, quietly paddling and enjoying the sounds of nature.
Overall, the trip was really fantastic and I can wholeheartedly recommend hiking in Nong Khiaw and staying in a village homestay. I will definitely do more hikes in Phongsaly or Luang Namtha in the future!
Caves
Phathok Caves
Follow the road 1C past Phar Kew Lom Viewpoint until you reach the turn-off to the caves. They were used as shelters by the Pathet Lao during their fight with the US-backed national forces, in the 1970s. The first cave is the biggest one, around 30m high and accessed by a stairway. The second one is quite narrow and definitely not for people with claustrophobia. The third one is the smallest and least impressive of all. You will most likely be accompanied by local kids with flashlights, asking you for a tip at the end. You can say you don’t want them to follow you but I don’t think they will listen 🙂 Bright your own decent torch for safety and just to see more. On the way back you will cross paddy fields which were very green and looked gorgeous in the afternoon light. The entry fee is 20.000 LAK.
Ricefields near Phathok Caves
Pha Kuang Cave
Similar to Phathok Cave, this one was also used as a hiding place during the Indochina war. It’s a place for people who are ready to get dirty and are not claustrophobic. It involves some serious crawling and going through narrow passages. I don’t really like places like that so decided not to go. The entry fee is 10.000 LAK.
Phonsavan town itself is little more than a base for exploring the nearby Plain of Jars. Those mysterious giant stones are empty inside and archaeologists assume that they were used for burial rituals. Several quarry sites have been recorded, usually close to the jar sites.
The area was heavily bombed during the Second Indochina War, with some jars destroyed or looted. However, many of them (around 2500) still remain. Around 80% of the jars were carved from quarried sandstone, with the rest made of granite, limestone, or conglomerate rock. Similar sights have been found in the Assam region of India, southern China, and Vietnam, which suggests that the Austro-Asiatic people who created these structures, may have migrated along a trade route across Asia, finally reaching Laos.
It is believed that there are over 90 jar sites in Xiangkhouang Province, most of them being off-limits to tourists. Each site has from one to 400 stone jars. Before opening the three most popular sites, they had to be cleared of UXO (unexploded ordnance). The first one was opened only in 1992 and in 2019 the archaeological ruins are on UNESCO World Heritage List.
The legend
As always, if there is a mysterious place, so there is also a legend. The giants that inhabited the area were ruled by a king, named Khun Cheung, who fought a long battle against an enemy. After the victory, he supposedly ordered the creation of the jars to brew and store huge amounts of alcohol made from rice to celebrate his victory.
When to go?
The best time to visit Laos is between November and April, as it’s the dry season. However, try to avoid February and March if possible. It doesn’t rain, but it’s the time when the burning season starts and dense haze hangs over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
How to get there?
Phonsavan is about 260 km away from Luang Prabang, 235 km from Vang Vieng, and 350 km from Vientiane. You will easily find buses going there in all above mentioned cities but be prepared for many hours onboard. Even though the distances aren’t huge, the roads are narrow, winding, and sometimes in very bad condition.
I went there when doing the North East Loop on a rented motorbike but I don’t recommend that option. Especially the section between Luang Prabang and Phou Khoun is full of trucks and extremely dusty. Better to stay on a bus and enjoy the views through the window. For bus connections, check 12Go.Asia.
Where to stay?
I arrived without a reservation at Kongkeo Guesthouseand took a private room for 200 LAK. They offered also a bed in a dormitory for 70 LAK but I had to work online on that night. It was a nice room with a double bed and mosquito net and a hot shower with really good water pressure which isn’t a norm in Laos. Laundry is available too, at 20 LAK per kilogram.
How long to stay?
One full day is enough to check out the three major sites of the Plain of Jars and the museum or visit the silk farm. If you plan to see the remains of the old kingdom in Muang Khounor do the Ban Phakheo hike, you will need to add 1-2 days more.
Interesting sights
Plain of Jars is the main attraction bringing tourists to Phonsavan and I have to agree, it’s well worth it. All three major sites can be easily visited independently in half a day on a rented motorbike or you may join a full-day tour, which often includes a visit to Ban Napia (known as spoon village where the locals recycle metal scrap to make spoons and other objects) and Muang Khoun (former small kingdom of Xieng Khuan). Your hotel or homestay will certainly help you out with organizing both options but you can also ask directly at the travel agents located on the main road.
Plain of Jars: site 1
The biggest, most popular and my least favorite site. Maybe I was simply unlucky, but at the time of my visit, two buses full of Chinese tourists arrived, which took away all the charm of that place. In the morning hours, the area was also covered in fog so couldn’t see any nice views from the hill. Anyway, there are over 300 jars here, a few bomb craters and a small cave with two holes that are thought to have been chimneys for a crematorium. Don’t forget to step into the visitor center to learn more about the history and archaeological research. Entry ticket: 20.000 LAK.
Foggy site 1 of Plain of JarsThe fog undoubtedly created an interesting vibe of that placeThe cave at site 1Bomb craterSite 1 is the most popular among touristsEarly morning at site 1
Plain of Jars: site 2
It’s a pair of small hills with jars on top of both of them. A very atmospheric place with a nice panorama of surrounding hills and farmlands. Entry ticket: 20.000 LAK.
Magical location under a beautiful treeIt used to be a lid covering the jarPlains of Jars site 2Remains of old Russian tank nearby site 2
Plain of Jars: site 3
A beautiful half-kilometer walk through rice paddy fields brings you to that site. Picturesque jars sit under a canopy of trees. Very nice place and the least popular as I was there completely alone. Entry ticket: 20.00 LAK.
Jars around site 3The idyllic location of site 3To get to site 3, you need to cross rice paddies
Ban Napia
Also known as spoon village where the locals recycle metal scrap to make spoons and other objects. It’s about 10 minute’s ride from site 3 of Plain of Jars. Only if you have some time to kill.
Process of making spoons
Xieng Khouang Provincial Museum
One of the most interesting museums in Laos, with extremely nice members of staff, one of whom showed me around. On the ground floor, there is information about the famous Plain of Jars and the history of the Xieng Khuang kingdom. On the first floor, you will learn more about the war period as well as about the local customs of ethnic communities living in that area. The entrance ticket costs 15.000 LAK.
MAG UXO Visitor Information Center
I highly recommend visiting this place to learn more about the war era and the effects of UXO (unexploded ordnance) on people’s lives. The USA dropped more bombs on Laos during the Vietnam War than they did on Germany and Japan combined during World War II. It makes Laos, per person, the most heavily bombed country in history. Over 25,000 people have been killed or injured by UXO since the bombing ceased. On the second floor, you may see a few interesting videos about the organization and its work in Laos. Learn more on their website.
MAG team searching for UXO
Mulberries Silk Farm
I arrived outside of guided tours hours but still was welcomed by a kind woman who brought me through the entire process of working with silk. They train and involve Lao village producers in silk production and by that, improve their livelihood and standard of living. Some wonderful products are available for purchase in the shop. Guided tours are at 9:30, 11:00, 14:00 and 15:30 and are free of charge.
Ban Phakheo hike
2 days hike to the Hmong village of Ban Phakheo, including a visit to nearby Jar Site 52 and Tad Ka Waterfall. When I asked one of the tour agents on Whatsapp, I was quoted a price of 180 USD for a group of 1-2 people. I believe it’s way too much for a hike in Laos so I simply went to Ban Phakheo on a motorbike. Look for “Turn-off to Tad Ka Waterfall” in Google Maps and follow the dirt road for about 1,5 km when you will have the junction to Pakheo. Turn right and just follow the dirt road passing by some other small villages on the way, until you reach your destination. The road is in decent condition and can be easily done on Honda Wave or similar. The panoramic views around the mountains are amazing and the location of Ban Phakheo is superb too. It’s well worth visiting here independently, even though the hike must be nice too.
The aerial view of Ban Phakheo
Muang Khoun
Muang Khoun, known also according to its old name as Xieng Khuang, was once the royal seat of the small kingdom of Xieng Khuang. It was a large and beautiful city protected by wide moats and forts occupying the surrounding hills. There were sixty-two pagodas and their stupas, of which the flanks apparently kept treasures.
As a result of long years of invasions by Thai and Vietnamese soldiers, pillaging by Chinese bandits in the nineteenth century and a rain of bombs during the 2nd Indochina War, nearly nothing was left of the kingdom’s exquisite temples. Today, the remains that remind us of the kingdom’s former glory are Pha That Foon, That Chomphet, Wat Phiavat and Wat Si Phom.
It’s nearly 1.5 hour’s drive from Phonsavan and if it’s on your way, it makes sense to stop there but I wouldn’t go just for the cave itself. It’s a historical site that was the scene of a human tragedy during the war. In 1968 the US Air Force fired a missile directly into the cave, which at the time was used as a shelter. 374 people were killed. The interior of the cave is filled with small rock piles, as a memorial to all those who died.
Muang Khoun, known also according to its old name as Xieng Khuang, was once the royal seat of the small kingdom of Xieng Khuang. It was a large and beautiful city protected by wide moats and forts occupying the surrounding hills. There were sixty-two pagodas and their stupas, of which the flanks apparently kept treasures.
As a result of long years of invasions by Thai and Vietnamese soldiers, pillaging by Chinese bandits in the nineteenth century and a rain of bombs during the 2nd Indochina War, nearly nothing was left of the kingdom’s exquisite temples. Today, the remains that remind us of the kingdom’s former glory are Pha That Foon, That Chomphet, Wat Phiavat and Wat Si Phom.
When to go?
The best time to visit Laos is between November and April, as it’s the dry season. However, try to avoid February and March if possible. It doesn’t rain but it’s the time when the burning season starts and dense haze hangs over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
How to get there?
Muang Khoun is about 30 km away from Phonsavan. Route 1D which runs eventually to Paksan is paved and comfortable to travel.
You can rent a motorbike from most of the guesthouses and travel agents in Phonsavan and travel there independently or sign up for a tour, which takes you to a few sites in the Plain of Jars as well as Muang Khoun.
Where to stay?
Most people stay inPhonsavanand visit Muan Khoun for a few hours, but if you have to, you may check out Neejli Guesthouse or Mrs Tout Guesthouse.
Ruins of ancient temples
How long to stay?
Half a day is enough to check out the temples and have a relaxing meal or drink around the nearby market.
Interesting sights
Pha That Foon
That in Lao means “stupa” and “chedi”, a Buddhist monument. Often, the structure houses cremation remains. Its size depends on the status and wealth of the deceased. Monuments considered the most sacred, contain relics of the Buddha. During the construction of a that, religious items such as manuscripts, Buddha images, and other items of value are stored in the interior. A sculpture of a tree composed of jewels serves as its central pillar.
That Foon was built in 1576 and was erected to house the ashes of Lord Buddha that were brought from India and other treasures. Unfortunately, Chinese invaders plundered it. It was rebuilt after the 2nd Indochina War and now again looks pretty decent.
Renovated Pha That FoonAerial view of Pha That Foon
That Chomphet
Further along, the ridge is less elegant That Chomphet, built around the same period as That Foon. It was almost completely destroyed in 1966 during the war. However, it’s a nice viewpoint of the town and surrounding mountains.
That Chomphet (and my motorbike)Aerial view of That Chomphet
Wat Phiavat
The large Buddha image and remnants of pillars are traces of Wat Phaviat’s grandeur. The temple was built in the 14th century. In one tale, the same artisan who built Wat Si Phom located a few blocks away, constructed Wat Phaviat.
Buddha statue in Wat Phiavat
In the 19th century, local bandits and invading armies damaged the temple searching for riches. Fightings in the 1st Indochina War destroyed the temple and its large Buddha image in 1953. The community rebuilt both a year later. The intense bombing of the 2nd Indochina War destroyed most of the structure, leaving the Buddha image, some pillars and part of the wall seen today.
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Wat Si Phom
The temple was founded in 1390 shortly after Muang Phuan became a vassal of the powerful Lao Lan Xang Kingdom. Its architecture is modelled on the Lan Xang style. Invasions and wars ravaged Xieng Khouang, including Wat Si Phom. The townspeople rebuilt the religious hall after the end of the 2nd Indochina War.
Wat Si PhomAerial view of Wat Si Phom
Plain of Jars – site 16
Remote and hardly visited site of the famous Plain of Jars. It’s about 15 minutes drive from the town so you may check it out if traveling on a motorbike. Take a turn-off at Na Lin village.
Summary
Muang Khoun has some interesting temples to visit in about 2-3 hours. I definitely wouldn’t travel a long distance to get there, but if you are visiting Phonsavan, it’s a pleasant ride out of town.
Phong Nha used to be just another sleepy village on the banks of the Son River in the countryside of Vietnam, but it all changed with the discovery of one of the world’s largest caves. Guesthouses, tour agencies and restaurants popped up feeling an opportunity and they were right. Today this area is considered to be an adventure tourism hotspot.
I had been looking forward to the visit to Phong Nha for quite some time, as I heard a lot of positive reviews claiming it to be one of the most beautiful nature places in Vietnam. As an enthusiast of multiday hiking trips, I was strongly tempted by the wide offer of tours including camping in the jungle or even inside the caves. In the end, I decided to go for it and selected Hang Tien Cave Exploration, one of the tours offered by Oxalis Adventure.
This is not a paid review. I simply decided to write it as I truly enjoyed the experience.
How to get to Phong Nha?
Phong Nha is one of the top tourist areas so it can be easily reached by bus from all the major cities around. There is an airport in Dong Hoi in case you want to save some time and energy when coming from Hanoi. The capital of Vietnam can be also reached by bus or by train but the travel time will be significantly longer (about 12 hours).
If you ride on a motorbike, the best would be to start at Dong Ha (~ 140 km) or Dong Hoi (~ 40 km) when approaching from the south or Vinh (~ 200 km) when coming from the north.
Where to stay before the tour?
I booked 2 nights at Phong Nha Friendly Home and also left my luggage and motorbike there for the duration of the tour. The room was spacious and clean and there was a nice view from the terrace. The only negative point was the hot water in the shower that didn’t last too long so I had to be quick 🙂
The owners are very friendly and breakfast is included in the price (about 400.000 VND per night).
Price and booking
The cost of the Hang Tien Exploration Tour is 9,900,000 VND (426 USD) per person and the tour has a limited annual number of visitors. Yeah, I know. It isn’t cheap. But let’s just think that for each group of 10 tourists, there are 1 tour guide, 2 safety assistants, 1 chef, 2 camp guards, and 4 porters. Oxalis provides all the meals, and camping and safety equipment such as helmets, harnesses, headlights, gloves and a waterproof box for your valuables. The final night is spent at Tu Lan Lodge which is of extremely good quality, much better than the hotels or guesthouses that I usually book. It’s a lifetime experience and I think it is worth the money.
When to go?
The tours are operated from November to September and the best would be to go around April – May. The days are getting warmer and dipping in the water is certainly more fun. I made a trip in late January and it was pretty cold, especially at night or when crossing rivers with icy water. Tours depart on a fixed schedule, on Tuesdays and Saturdays (as of January 2023).
There are no tours from September to October due to the rainy season and increased water levels.
How long to stay in the area?
Besides the amazing trip with Oxalis, it is still worth spending some time for further exploration of the region. It has so much to offer: Phong Nha Cave, Paradise Cave, Duck Stop and Botanic Garden, just to mention a few interesting places!
I spent there two extra days but I could easily imagine an additional one or two in summer when it’s warmer you can do more water activities.
The trip plan
Day 1
The big day has come! I was thinking for a long time about which tour to choose and nearly booked another one (Tu Lan Explorer) but luckily Oxalis consultant advised me to pick Hang Tien Exploration Tour which doesn’t involve too much swimming, which isn’t that nice in January. So, there I was, waiting at my guesthouse for minivan pickup.
They came right on time and about one hour later, we arrived at the Oxalis base camp in the countryside. We were given the equipment (protective helmet, gloves, backpack, bottle with water, and waterproof box for electronics). Then, we met our guide (Dai), who explained all the details of the tour and we had to repack: some things were taken by the porters, and some we carried ourselves. Unfortunately, I chose a backpack that was quite small and only later on I noticed that there were a few bigger ones but they were already taken by other. Well, too bad. Remember to pay attention and choose wisely! As always, my backpack was full to the limits.
We hit the trail walking first through the countryside and saw the daily activities of local people. Many of them were riding bikes with some plants attached to them. Looked quite funny as sometimes you couldn’t really even see the rider, just a motorbike and moving leaves. The road was getting muddier and muddier. In general, the first day was definitely the muddiest of all. We crossed a fast-flowing river with a strong current, some people did it with hiking shoes but it meant that they had to spend the rest of the day with completely wet feet. Luckily, I had my trekking sandals, which were excellent for that purpose so I quickly changed.
Then we continued through muddy terrain to the Secret Cave. The interior was small but really beautiful. Then we had lunch, mostly bread, rice paper and all the ingredients to prepare a sandwich or a spring roll by ourselves. Then we went to Hung Ton Cave which involved going down the steep ladder while wearing a safety harness. It was quite easy, even though it looked scary as I had never used that kind of equipment before. I felt perfectly safe as I was convinced that the guides were experienced and knew what they were doing. Then, as the water level was high and no one was interested in swimming in cold water, we took a short boat ride out of the cave.
From there, we hiked through more and more muddy terrain, but luckily there were barely any leeches. We crossed some more streams, one of them with a pretty strong current and water level up to the waist. I think it was the most dangerous section of the trip. If someone had fallen down, they would have gone with the river flow and for sure got hurt.
Finally, we reached our campsite. Some people took a swim in the river and jumped into the herbal steam bath. I didn’t do so as the water was way too cold for me. Instead, I drank a few cups of delicious ginger tea and warmed myself up next to the fireplace.
We started drying our clothes next to the fireplace, including shoes, which didn’t end up well for me. I left them there for the night and in the morning the right one was seriously burnt.
The dinner was very delicious and it felt really great to eat at the camp in the middle of the jungle. After dinner we were sitting around the fire, having a nice chat and at some point, roasted peanuts were served, which was a nice surprise.
The camp was nicely organized with tents under some kind of roof and on an elevated platform. There was also a thermal steam bath, a bathroom with water in the bucket and a properly-looking toilet.
In the end, everyone went to sleep quite early. The night was quiet and I slept well even though I was a bit cold. Everyone was given two sleeping bags but they were extremely thin, so it was necessary to use extra layers of clothes.
Day 2
We woke up at about 8 AM, got breakfast and then had some time to pack the things and get ready. On that day, the trail was supposed to be less muddy and without many river crossings. The total distance to go was about 8 km with roughly 350m of ascent. Unfortunately, I noticed that one of my shoes got burnt while lying too close to the fireplace. What can I say, I am a jungle genius.
I set off in my Keen sandals as there were small river crossings at the very beginning of the hike and I preferred to have dry feet. I was glad to see that the trail was indeed less muddy than the day before. There were no caves en route today, just pure jungle. We had our first picnic at the beautiful spot at the lake. The meal was really delicious. Rice with papaya and some other veggies, peanuts and sauce. The weather was also much better than the day before, with the occasional sunny period but still cold, especially while resting. Luckily, there were still no leeches as well as no mosquitos.
After the lunch break, we had to cross the small lake walking on the fallen tree and the over the wooden mini-bridge but it was submerging under the weight of the person walking on it, so I again decided to change shoes to sandals and keep sports shoes dry.
Then we walked and walked until we reached our second campsite set in an amazingly scenic location at the riverbank. There was a kind of small beach and Oxalis guys even organized a stand-up paddleboard. This time I decided to take a short dip in the water but it was really so goddamn cold. Immediately after, I jumped inside the herbal steam bath. It was really cool experience.
The evening was pleasant. I learned how to play a Vietnamese card game and we had delicious dinner again, followed by chitchat at the fireplace. The chef also prepared some hot sweet potatoes and corn. Awesome. The sky was clear so we could admire hundreds of stars.
There was another Oxalis camp for a different tour, on the other side of the lake, but we couldn’t hear them at all.
Day 3
The third day of the trip was the most exciting one as we visited the two biggest caves: Hang Tien 1 and Hang Tien 2. The morning on the campsite was cold but there was nice scenery with a morning mist over the river. Breakfast was delicious too, with nice banana pancakes and chocolate sauce.
We were also asked to decide if we want to take the longer route through the jungle which includes going up the mountains or rather a shortcut and coming back the same way through Hang Tien 1. We voted for the longer hike, which was also my preference.
It was a short trek to the entrance of Hang Tien 1, where we made a stop for a photo session. Then we went inside and it was really, really nice. Very big cave, exciting to walk through with some climbing and narrow passages but allowing to keep the feet dry. Inside, we could see calcite terraces and the circular ceiling dome. Further in we were given a safety harness and instructed to climb a 10 m ladder to reach the cave exit, opening out to a lush forest.
From there we continued to Hang Tien 2, which was smaller but probably even more beautiful inside with crystal-like rock formations. We could leave our backpacks at the entrance because it was a one-way cave with the exit the same way. We took some cool group photos here, with shadows reflected on the rocks and also individual ones while standing between stalagmites and stalactites. The guides were equipped with special lights, which made the photos look really professional.
After leaving the cave, we had a nice lunch and then continued the hike through the jungle. The weather was perfect and the hike was really pleasant, even though it was quite steep at some points. We rested for a while at the top and then started descent until we reached the road, where the minibus was already waiting for us.
It took about 1 hour to reach the Oxalis office and Tu Lan Lodge. We received keys to the rooms and had some time for taking a shower or riding a bike before going for dinner. The room was so amazing! Big panoramic window with a view of all the area and the mountains, even from the bathroom! Definitely the best room during my Vietnamese trip. But well, it wasn’t cheap 🙂 I did a short bike ride around the village but was definitely planning to wake up early the next day and explore some more.
The dinner at the house of the local guide was delicious. A real feast with plenty of dishes but everyone was quite hungry! We also had some happy water (a local alcoholic beverage), obviously for better digestion 🙂
Day 4
The last day shouldn’t really be counted as an active one unless you grab a bike and go explore the village. That was exactly what I did! We had free time until 12:00 and the area is way too beautiful to just sit on the terrace. Bikes are available for free for anyone staying at Tu Lan Lodge.
It’s a real rural area with extremely friendly people always greeting you and smiling. Lots of great photo opportunities too, especially of people working in the ricefields.
Finally, it was time to set off back to Phong Nha and say goodbye to the group. What an amazing 4 days it was!
Other tours
Hang Tien Exploration is not the only tour in Oxalis Adventure offer. They have both longer and shorter hikes so simply visit their website and find the one that fits you best. It isn’t a sponsored recommendation as I truly liked my days in the Phong Nha area 🙂
Summary
All in all, it was an excellent trip. Logistics, guides, food, accommodation as well as communication with the consultant prior to the trip – everything was on a high level. It’s definitely not a cheap tour, but on the other hand, it’s an experience that you don’t have the chance to get very often. I wholeheartedly recommend Oxalis Adventure for all nature enthusiasts visiting Phong Nha.
Thale Noi means the small sea and indeed, travelling by long-tail boat on this vast freshwater lagoon gives you the feeling that you are on an amazingly calm sea. The Lake is located in the Phatthalung province of southern Thailand, covers an area of 28 square kilometres, and forms the northernmost portion of the Great Songkhla Lake. The wetland area was declared a Ramsar site, which recognizes its international importance under the criteria of the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands for containing representative, rare or unique wetland types or for their importance in conserving biological diversity.
When to go?
The lotuses and water lilies are in full bloom from January to March/April and this time of the year corresponds with the largest number of migrating birds. I visited the place exactly on the first day of April and the scenery was amazing with a minimal number of tourists. In general, November is the wettest month of the year and July is the driest.
Morning activities on the lakeFisherman in the “office”Seems like floating on a carpet made from lotus flowers
How to get there?
The easiest way is to fly from Bangkok to Hat Yai, Nakhon Si Thammarat or Trang and arrange a further trip from one of these. The southern railway connects Phatthalung with Hat Yai and Nakhon Si Thammarat, but you can easily get mini-buses or buses too.
Where to stay?
As long as you are planning to take a sunrise boat trip, you should stay overnight somewhere around the lake. I recommend Chuanchom Resort. It’s basically just opposite the area where the boatmen hang out in the morning. The room is simple but perfectly fine for a short stay. I paid around 700 THB for one night.
How long to stay?
One day is enough to explore the area. After the sunrise trip, you may want to check out Thale Noi Viewpoint Tower and then make a stop in Phatthalung, before heading further.
Lotus flower
Sunrise boat trip
Boat trips can be arranged around the big parking, opposite the road next to Chuanchom Resort. Just go there in the morning and speak directly with the boatmen. I highly recommend starting around sunrise time, as it’s purely magical to see how the wetlands spring to life. The prices vary depending on the duration of the trip. The 1-hour trip will cost about 550 THB while the longer one, which is over 2 hours, will cost about 900 THB or more. I took the longer one and totally loved it. It was even more than 2 hours as the boatman didn’t have a watch and I didn’t control the time either. After a while, he just asked me what time it is and then we turned back. Perfect cooperation 🙂 Long-tail boats can carry up to 7 people.
It’s worth waking up early!Sunrise is the best time for a boat trip on the lake
Thale Noi is an important habitat for various wildlife, particularly waterfowl. January to April is the time of the year with the largest number of migrating birds and the sunrise hours are best for observation. Besides that, you will certainly spot water buffaloes. Local fishermen can be spotted too, checking their fish traps and nets but also unknowingly posing for photos. The long-tail boat glides across the water strewn with lotus flowers like a carpet. And when there are no plants on the surface, it acts as a mirror, reflecting incredible formations of clouds.
There are many photo spots when the boatman switches off the engine so you can take in all that view in silence.
Water buffaloes marching through the lakeWater buffaloesSeems like they really enjoy the water!Fisherman preparing fish traps
Other interesting places
Chaloem Phrakiat Bridge
Spanning 5.5 kilometres, it is the longest bridge in Thailand. There are some rest stops so you can pull over and take your photos if you are driving. When you enter the bridge from the Gulf of Thailand side, you may spot giant square-shaped nets which are mounted on a wooden frame named ‘yo‘ in Thai. The nets are dipped into the water and then raised to catch the fish which can then be sold at local markets. The very picturesque Twin House is located more or less about halfway along the bridge, on its left side.
Amazing cloud formations above the bridge5,5 km – the longest bridge in ThailandIt is possible to safely stop at the bridge and take photosBe careful with your drone as there are many birds aroundAerial view of Thale Noi Twin House is located more or less about halfway along the bridgeGiant nets used for fishing The nets are dipped into the water and then raised to catch the fishTop-down view of the fisherman housePanorama with fishermen spots
Thale Noi Viewpoint Tower
Walk up the stairs to admire the panorama of Thale Noi Lake.
Phatthalung
There are no must-see places in town, however, some are worth the visit if you have time to spare.
Phatthalung Museum is a former residence of the Governor of Phatthalung. Beautiful, Thai-style houses are now accessible to the public. When it comes to temples, I would recommend visiting Wat Khuha Sawan, with a cave full of Buddha statues and Wat Khao Chiak with 800+ steps uphill and beautiful panoramic views as a reward. To finish the day, Saen Suk Lampam Beach is a good spot for enjoying lakeside views, especially during sunset.
Phang Nga Bay with its 42 islands is located in the northern part of the Malacca Strait between Phuket and the provinces of Phang Nga and Krabi on the mainland of southern Thailand. A large part of it is protected by the Ao Phang Nga National Park. The landscape attracts tourists with huge limestone karsts that seem to grow out of the calm waters of the Andaman Sea. It’s something that just can’t be missed when travelling in that region.
This article describes a tour around the bay, with an overnight stay on Panyee Island. There are two big islands in that area, but I believe that they deserve a longer visit on their own, as otherwise, you would feel too rushed. The two islands are Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi and you can read about them in my previous posts.
Where to find a boat trip?
Prior to the trip, I did my research on Google Maps and found a place with quite many positive reviews: Service Tour Boat Friendly Price. Yes I know, the name sounds catchy 🙂 They are located next to Pracharat Pier and parking shouldn’t be a problem. Hanah, who is the owner, can be easily contacted by phone (+66933906568) and is really friendly.
They offer two kinds of tours. Tour A includes James Bond Island, Lod Cave, Saokadong Cave and Panyee Island. Tour B includes James Bon Island, Hong Island, Nok Krariang Cave and Panak Island. Each tour costs around 2,000 THB. If you want to combine two tours and additionally stay overnight at Panyee Island as I did, you may need to negotiate your price. It will be higher as after the night on the island, someone has to come and pick you up the following morning, so expect to pay around 3,000 – 3,300 THB. Of course, if you travel with a group of friends, the price per person becomes more affordable.
The easiest to get to Pracharat Pier is from Phuket or Krabi. I went there on a rented motorbike from Krabi and it took me about 2 hours.
Of course, Phang Nga Bay can be reached by speedboat directly from Phuket and it’s way easier to organize. It’s up to you to decide what kind of experience you want. Speedboat with lots of other people or private long-tail boat which allows you to go at your own pace. Another good option could be arranging a long-tail boat at Koh Yao Noi or Koh Yao YaiIslands.
Drone shot taken around Panyee Island
When to go?
The best time to visit Phang Nga Bay is from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, accommodation may be cheaper but organizing a boat may be way more difficult and the whole experience won’t be as pleasing as it could be.
How long to stay?
Most people just do a day tour but I wanted to feel Phang Nga Bay after all the tours and noisy speedboats come back to the mainland. Therefore, I stayed 1 night on Panyee Island which was an excellent choice. If you have the time, I really recommend you do the same.
Where to stay?
I booked a room atJamesbond Bungalow Ko Panyeewhich was an excellent choice. The view from the terrace was amazing and there were nice chairs to lie down on. The host was very friendly and the internet connection was fast. I paid 850 THB for 1 night’s stay.
What to take with you?
You won’t need much, but make sure these items find a place in your bag:
Rain jacket
Sports shoes or trekking sandals (may be useful in the caves)
Flip flops
Swimsuit (you may get wet on the kayaks)
Insect repellant
Sunglasses
Hat
Day 1
The trip started with a visit to the faraway spot: Phanak Island. Normally you can do a short kayak trip here to enter the lagoon which is possible at low tide only. If you don’t want to do that the boatsman can pull over next to the rocks and let you get off the boat to have a short walk and have a look at the lagoon. It was a really good start to the tour and the island also looks amazing while you are approaching it. There is also Ice Cram Cave in the other corner of the island. Nothing spectacular but if you are already around…
Approaching Phanak IslandRide in a long-tail boatThe visibility wasn’t perfect on that dayAround the caves
The next stop was at the Birds Cave on Ko Sa Ang Yai Island. It was the most adventurous cave as to get into, you need to climb the wooden ladder. It’s a small place but very atmospheric and well worth the visit. From there, we went to one of the biggest attractions in this area: Hong Island. Again, there is an option for a short kayak trip at the additional fee of 300 THB, and this time I decided to go for it. In fact, it’s a guided trip so actually you don’t paddle yourself but just sit as a passenger. A bit strange 🙂 Some passes are really low so the guide will ask you to lie down and watch out for your head. It was really fun, even though it was raining. You feel so small being surrounded by these towering limestone walls.
Kayaking around Hong IslandVarious small islands in Phang Nga BayImpressive walls growing out from the sea
Then, it was time to move on to Ko Tapu, also known as James Bond Island. Very tourist place, which suddenly might get super crowded as many boats arrive at the same time. However, it’s good to see it once in a lifetime. The place appeared in the 1974 James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun. There is a national park fee of 300 THB per person paid upon arrival.
The famous rock as seen from the James Bond Island
The last stop before arriving at Panyee Islands for chilling was Thalu Mountain and Lot Cave. It’s another kayaking stop and again paid 300 THB extra. For me, it was even better than Hong Island so I can highly recommend it. The same as before, you go with the guide who does the paddling job and just enjoy the scenery. You will see impressive rocks, mangroves and most probably some “walking fish” so the mudskipper which is a half-fish half-reptile. The only thing that influenced negatively my experience here was the guide who was all the time talking about his family and how poor he is, kind of forcing the tip in an unpleasant way.
Finally, we arrived on Panyee Island and I agreed with the boatsman to pick me up the next day at 10 AM. I left my things in the room and went for a walk. Panyee Island is a fishing village built on stilts by Malay fishermen from Kedah state. It was very peaceful in the afternoon when all the tours already left and only local people remained. And me, probably the only tourist staying overnight 🙂 The scenery around was truly fantastic, as you can see in the drone shots below. For the dinner, you may find some cheap bites in the market area close to the mosque.
Seems like a nice place to play football!Panyee Island, what a location!Calm afternoon at Panyee IslandUnbelievable scenery!
Day 2
I was picked up according to schedule and I was really glad that it seemed to be a sunny day. That’s why, on the way back to the pier, I could see the scenery of Phang Nga Bay once again, in different conditions. We made one more stop to visit the cave of the name that I don’t even remember anymore 🙂 But the highlight was just a relaxing boat ride in the morning sunshine. Hanah greeted me upon arrival and I jumped on my motorbike to check some other points in the area, before coming back to Krabi.
Samet Nangshe Viewpoint
Being so close, you can’t miss the visit to this amazing place. The view is good at any time of the day but of course, it’s absolutely breathtaking during sunrise and sunset. You need to park at the bottom and use their 4X4 taxi to go up. It costs 90 THB per person for a return ticket. There is a restaurant at the top but it may get very busy.
What a view from Samet Nangshe Viewpoint!
Benyaran Museum and Waterfall
A private collection of all kinds of things in aspects of culture, traditions, living conditions, occupations, etc. The entrance fee is 150 THB for foreigners and I personally think that it isn’t worth it. There is a small waterfall, a few minutes’ drive beyond the museum which can be visited free of charge. Follow the signs.
Phang Nga
Phang Nga is also the name of the city, the capital of Phang Nga Province. A rather compact place, just for a quick stopover. You can have a look at Tham Sam, a nice limestone cave with wall paintings from as early as 1850. It is located next to a beautiful lake and limestone cliffs. Free to visit.
Another cave nearby is Tham Phung Chang. The price (500 THB) includes canoeing, bamboo rafting, and walking. I had enough caves that weekend so I left it for the next time.
Phang Nga is a small and sleepy townThe landscape around Phang Nga
Summary
Overall, it was an excellent and unforgettable time, even though the weather was far from perfect, especially on the first day. It’s not cheap, but if you travel with a group of friends, then it definitely makes more sense than an organized speedboat tour from Phuket. Overnight stay on Panyee Island gave me the chance to see the quiet side of Phang Nga Bay, almost without any other tourists around. Well worth it!
It’s a popular tourist destination as it’s conveniently located between Phuket and Koh Samui or Koh Phangan. The main attractions of Khao Sok are Cheow Lan Lake, wildlife, iconic limestone hills, waterfalls, raft houses spread over the lake, trails, caves and rivers. It’s a real paradise for nature lovers and be sure that some time here will stay in your memories forever.
The park covers 739 square kilometres and was officially established on the 22nd of December 1980. Luckily, in the 1970s, Thai students, who had joined communist insurgency groups, set up a stronghold in Khao Sok, as it provided ideal conditions to hide and operate guerilla warfare. They managed to keep at a distance not only the Thai Army but also loggers, miners and hunters. Who knows what the rainforest would look like now if not for coincidences like this one?
In 1982 Rajjaprabha Dam was built, closing off the Pasaeng river and creating 165 km2 of the Cheow Larn Lake. This dam was built to provide a source of electricity to southern Thailand, which by now had become a major tourist destination.
How to get to Khao Sok?
It’s a popular place so arranging transportation from other spots in Thailand will be rather easy. The most convenient way is to start the trip from Krabi, Phuket, Khao Lak or Surat Thani with a minivan. Just ask the travel agent or the receptionist at your hotel and I’m sure they will guide you through the options.
I started from Krabi but in this section of my travel, I had a rental car for about two weeks, so it was really easy to get around. I took a white Toyota Yaris ATIV from PURE Krabi Car Rental and it was easily the best and the most worry-free rental experience that I have ever had. Easy contact through Whatsapp with the owner, no deposit needed, the low maximum liability of 5,000 THB and there was even a free WiFi device on board. Perfect!
Surrounded by limestone mountainsThe boat ride is incredibly scenic
When to go?
It’s a humid jungle environment with high temperatures and heavy rains year-round. The rain intensifies during the months of June through November but it shouldn’t discourage you from visiting this beautiful place. Just be prepared to get wet at any time of the year. Tropical downpours can be strong but usually, they don’t last for long. After all, it’s a rainforest!
If you really hate rain, February is the driest month on average with 30mm of rainfall, so plan your trip at this time.
Low clouds in the morning hoursMorning hours are the most photogenic so have your camera ready!
How long to stay?
At least 3 days should be counted to fully enjoy the visit to Khao Sok. I spent 2 days on the trip to Cheow Larn Lake and 1 additional day hanging around the village and enjoying a guided night jungle walk. Anything shorter would have felt rushed.
Where to stay?
I booked a room atKhao Sok Jungle Huts Resortwhich was an excellent choice. Free parking, mosquito net, great restaurant and unbelievably friendly host. I arranged all my trips here. The place is very green with easy access to the river and you can occasionally spot some monkeys.
This huge insect just landed at the reception while I was checking in
What to take with you?
You won’t need much, but make sure these items find a place in your bag:
Rain jacket
Sports shoes or trekking sandals that can get wet (for the cave tour)
Long trousers and long socks
Swimsuit
Insect repellant with DEET (there will be leeches)
Sunglasses
Hat
National Park fees and opening hours
According to the official website, as of June 2022, the entrance fees for foreigners are 200 THB for adults and 100 THB for children 3-14 years old. Thai citizens pay 40 Baht for adults and 20 Baht for children. The entrance fees are valid for multiple days only if staying inside the park, either when camping or staying at raft houses on the lake. In other cases, you will have to buy a new ticket every day, which I find a bit ridiculous. After coming back from the tour of raft houses, I still wanted to do the guided night walk and I had to pay again for the new entrance ticket.
Luckily, it seems that the prices went down because when I was visiting in March 2022, the entrance ticket was 300 THB.
The park is open from 6 AM to 6 PM daily, all year round. Entering after 6 PM is possible if you do a night walk with a guide.
Cheow Lan Lake
What to do in Khao Sok?
The park can be split into two popular areas, which are 67 km apart. The first one is around the national park headquarters and Khao Sok Village, where it is possible to hike a number of trails, join guided night walks, visit waterfalls or take part in activities on the river. The second one is around Cheow Lan Lake and is popular for boat trips, raft houses, caves and limestone mountains.
source: www.thainationalparks.com
Overnight trip to Cheow Lan Lake
I booked a 2D 1N trip at my hotel one day in advance. The cost should be around 2,500 THB but ask if the entrance ticket to the national park is included.
The minibus picked me and some other guests up and we were taken to Cheow Lan Lake Pier where we bought national park tickets and boarded a long tail boat. The ride on the lake was extremely fun. Interestingly, the lake was created in 1982 as part of a damming project to provide hydroelectricity to the south of Thailand. It stretches over an area of 165 km2. We were surrounded by limestone hills and it all felt like going deeper into some unknown Jurrasic Park.
There are many raft houses spread all over the lake, from which it is possible to visit caves, viewpoints, limestone hills and get to some exciting trails. The one I stayed at was called the Smiley Lakehouse. Very pleasant place with simple rooms and private bathrooms. As I was travelling alone, I was asked to share a room with another solo traveller. Of course, I agreed and ended up with a new friend from Germany.
Raft houses on the lakeImagine waking up in these surroundings!Kayaks are available and paddling around is a great way to kill some time
We had a bit over one hour to chill out, swim in the lake or use one of many available kayaks. I decided to paddle around a bit but it was really tough in that sunny weather!
Then, it was time to return to the boat and head to Nam Thalu Cave. For me, it was the most adventurous part of visiting Khao Sok National Park. Once inside the cave, you wade or maybe even have to swim through the water. Keep all your valuables in a waterproof bag or ask your guide to store them for you. Due to the weather forecast for the afternoon which included rain, we were a bit hurried. Apparently, it may be extremely dangerous if you get caught inside the cave in heavy rain as the water level rises very fast.
We saw plenty of bats and spiders that can be recognized by their eyes reflecting the light. There could be also some snakes around but we didn’t see any. It is definitely not a place to go with small kids and you should wear proper shoes, not flip-flops.
As soon as we exited the cave, the heavy rain started so we were really just in time! It was raining the whole way back to the boat. Rain in the jungle means one thing. Be careful of leeches! A few people in our group were affected so it’s best to stop from time to time and check your body and the body of your buddy. They can move really fast so pay attention to the area around your ankles but also under your armpits.
We went back to the raft house where we had time to relax while waiting for dinner. It was really amazing to see when the rain stopped and clouds were rolling over the massive limestone hills.
Limestone hills after the rain
The night was calm and in the early morning, we boarded the boat again, this time looking for wildlife. We saw a lot of monkeys and some hornbills, but unfortunately no elephants.
Hornbills were seen in the early morningMisty rainforest
After breakfast, it was time to pack the bags and go back to the pier, with two more stops on the way: Khao Sam Kloe, which is a group of 3 beautiful rocks, and Pra Kie Phet Cave, a small and this time without water but with bats and some huge spiders which scared the shit out of me, even though they are harmless for humans.
Khao Sam KloeIt used to be a snake…Plenty of spiders inside Pra Kie Phet Cave
In the end, the minibus transported us back to Khao Sok Village with a short lunch stop at Ratchaprapha Dam Scenic Viewpoint. All in all, it was a wonderful trip, absolutely worth the price. I highly recommend spending the night at the lake instead of doing only a day trip. It will add so much more to the experience!
You can also arrange your trip independently, by arriving at Cheow Lan Lake Pier and getting a boat from there to the floating house that you booked before or simply arranging the boat trip for a few hours. However, to see all the other attractions around, I believe it’s better to go for an organized trip with a guide, which includes an overnight stay in a raft house.
Night jungle walk
It’s actually a really fun experience, even though you don’t go deep in the jungle but rather follow the dirt road, around the park’s headquarters. We saw some frogs, snakes, spiders, and lizards as well as stick insects.
Wildlife seen in the night
Rafflesia flower hike
Rafflesia is a parasitic plant with no leaves or roots on its own. It invades the liana vines and like a parasite, it absorbs all the vine’s nutrients. Once a year small buds begin to develop beneath the root bark of the vine. As they mature, they swell, breaking through the bark. They then burst open revealing the massive flower, which can be up to 80 cm! I haven’t done this hike but it’s definitely on my list, even in other places in South East Asia!
Ton Kloi Waterfall
One of the hikes that starts at the national park headquarters. It is 7 km long and runs along the Sok River. The first 2.9 km of the trail, until a checkpoint guarded by rangers, doesn’t require any guide to walk. However, if you want to continue all the way to the end, the guide is obligatory. There are many other, smaller waterfalls along that trail.
Sip Et Chan Falls
This 11-tiered waterfall is accessible by a nearly 4 km long trail starting from the north side of the campground next to the park’s headquarters. You can walk the first 400-50 meters on a wooden boardwalk freely, but a guide is required for the remaining distance.
Mae Yai Waterfall
It’s outside of the national park and you can just see it from the road while driving from Khao Lak. Otherwise, I wouldn’t say that it’s worth a dedicated trip.
Khao Sok Elephant Sanctuary
It’s one of the sanctuaries with really good comments from visitors. You may be able to make food for the elephants, feed and walk with them, but riding or bathing is absolutely forbidden.
River tubing or bamboo rafting
Both activities are especially fun in wet months when the water level in the river is high. It’s best to arrange it directly at your hotel or at street agencies.
Off the beaten trail – Khlong Phanom National Park
Rarely visited park, with a very nice loop hiking trail which should take you under 2 hours. You have a couple of viewpoints along the way until you finally arrive at the big tree. The entrance fee is quite cheap at 100 THB.
Around Khlong Phanom National Park
Summary
It was a magical time in nature and if you are looking for something else than Thai islands, look no further. There are plenty of activities to do both for very active people and also for those lazier ones. Spend the night in a raft house, waking up early to admire the morning mist and listen to the sounds of the jungle. This is one of these experiences that you will remember for a lifetime. I am a big nature enthusiast and I had 3 days of an absolute blast.
