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Phan Thiet and Mui Ne are popular tourist destinations located in Binh Thuan Province. Phan Thiet is a coastal city known for its fishing industry and production of fish sauce. Mui Ne, a small fishing village has gained popularity for its stunning sandy beaches, unique red and white sand dunes, and water sports opportunities like kite surfing and windsurfing.

When to go?

You will get more sun and a more pleasant experience from November to April, during the dry season. This period offers ideal conditions for enjoying beaches, engaging in water sports, and exploring sand dunes without being affected by the intense heat of the Vietnamese summer.

Where to stay?

I was more than happy to stay at Hotel Minh Hang in Phan Thiet and from there I made a trip to Mui Ne and to Phu Quy Island. Mui Ne offers plenty of accommodation too so if you prefer to stay there, check booking.com or agoda.com.

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
The riverside of Phan Thiet

What to see in Phan Thiet?

The main sights can be comfortably seen in half a day. Start with Ho Chi Minh Museum and Duc Thanh School. Most probably both places will be packed with local tourists due to their historical importance. You will see preserved classrooms and boarding houses where former President Ho Chi Minh, or Uncle Ho as he is often called by Vietnamese people, lived and worked in 1910. The museum built next to the waterfront glorifies that individual and presents some school relics. There are no descriptions in English but it’s worth having a short look, also to understand the propaganda mechanisms and the cult of Ho Chi Minh in that country.

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
The monument of Ho Chi Minh
Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Panoramic view over Phan Thiet

Guang Di Temple is located nearby and is the oldest and largest scale Chinese place of worship in town.

Continue further to Van Thuy Tu Temple, which is a unique place containing the skeleton of a 19-meter-long whale. Fishing communities in southern Vietnam revere whales as sacred beings who offer protection against storms.

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Van Thuy Tu Temple and whale’s skeleton

Phan Thiet Water Tower and Victory Monument are on the other side of the Ca Ty River. Both places are nicely illuminated at night.

Doi Doung Beach has a nice park with lots of trees. You can sit or walk along the beach, though it’s not a particularly clean place to relax.

Po Sah Inu Cham Towers is the most interesting place to visit in Phan Thiet, of course in my opinion 🙂 It’s about 10 minutes drive from the city center so you will need a scooter or a taxi. Dating from the 9th century, this complex consists of the ruins of three towers, associated with the Cham people, an ethnic group with a rich history and cultural heritage. They are typically built using brick and sandstone and often consist of several towers arranged in a specific layout, with each tower serving as a place of worship dedicated to Hindu deities. The towers are adorned with intricate carvings, sculptures, and bas-reliefs that depict scenes from Hindu mythology and Cham culture.

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Sah Inu Cham Towers
Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Sah Inu Cham Towers
Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Sah Inu Cham Towers

Around Phan Thiet

Phu Quy Island

It’s located about 120 kilometers from the mainland. In November, there were hardly any tourists and I could feel a peaceful and relaxed ambiance. There are some rocky cliffs as well as sandy beaches but those are unfortunately polluted with trash. Superdong Ferries and Phu Quoc Expresses depart from Phan Thiet Port.

You can find more information in the separate post HERE.

The beach on Phu Quy Island

Ta Cu Mountain

The highlight is definitely a giant reclining Buddha statue, which is about 49 meters long. The pagoda is a place of worship and a serene spot for meditation, accessible by cable car or on foot.

More information can be found in a separate post HERE.

Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
Ta Cu Mountain

Ke Ga Cape

Ke Ga Cape is famous for being the place where the tallest and oldest lighthouse in Vietnam still stands. The structure is about 60 meters high and was designed by a French architect to ensure safe navigation for vessels in that area. The construction was finished in 1899.

More information can be found in a separate post HERE.

Ke Ga Cape, Vietnam
Ke Ga Cape

Mui Ne

Fairy Stream

It has the reputation of being a little hidden gem in that area, but is it really? It’s a pleasant walk up the shallow creek to the small waterfall at its end, with interesting rock formations along the way. Nevertheless, there are usually quite many tourists and you have to pay attention to avoid being scammed (most probably they will try to overcharge you for the parking or offer an unnecessary guide).

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Fairy Stream
Mui Ne, Vietnam
Small waterfall at the end of the hike

Mui Ne Fishing Village

Amazing view of hundreds of fishing boats. It’s a good place to get cheap seafood, but you have to bargain. The beach area is quite dirty due to all that business going around.

Mui Ne, Vietnam
Mui Ne Fishing Village

Mui Ne Beach

Disappointing beach that proves that Vietnam isn’t the right place for beach holidays. If that’s what you are looking for, just do yourself a favor and go to Thailand 🙂 The beach is full of garbage and some shady guys ask 50.000 VND to access it. Save your time and money and skip it.

Red Sand Dunes

Mui Ne is famous for its huge red and white sand dunes and that is what brings most of the tourists to that area. The red ones are smaller but they are closer to the village and look particularly nice at sunset. You can get a ride in 4WD but it’s completely not necessary. Just walk.

Mui Ne, Vietnam
Red Sand Dunes
Mui Ne, Vietnam
Red Sand Dunes

White Sand Dunes

Bigger and more impressive than Red Sand Dunes. To get there, follow the main road to the north for about 25 kilometers. You will be offered quad bikes or buggy rides and it may be tempting as the area is big and it can get hot. If you are fine with walking on your own, it’s perfectly doable as well. Just climb one of the highest dunes to get a panoramic view of the landscape.

Mui Ne, Vietnam
White Sand Dunes
Mui Ne, Vietnam
White Sand Dunes

Less Touristy White Sand Dunes

A few kilometers further north you will get another opportunity to check out the dunes. Just park your motorbike at the roadside and start climbing. No loud ATVs or buggies here which is a huge advantage.

While riding a motorbike between Mui Ne Village and sand dunes, watch out for the police. They are frequently patrolling the area and stopping foreigners. As I had an international driving license, they let me go without questions asked but if you don’t have one, get ready for negotiations and have some cash with you as most likely they will ask for ‘tea money’.

Mui Ne, Vietnam
White Sand Dunes
Mui Ne, Vietnam
White Sand Dunes

Vung Tau and Ho Tram are popular coastal destinations in Vietnam. Vung Tau is located on a peninsula and is known for its beaches, seafood markets, and restaurants. It’s often visited as a weekend getaway from Ho Chi Minh City due to its proximity.

Ho Tram is a beach area situated further east along the coastline from Vung Tau. It’s known for luxury resorts and many entertainment options, including casinos.

How to get there?

It’s about 100 km and 2 – 3 hours from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau by car. The trip by bus will take slightly longer but is easy to organize. You may check your connections at 12Go.Asia

For those traveling on motorbike from Ho Chi Minh City, the best would be to head towards Monkey Island and then to Ben Pha Can Gio – Vung Tau Ferry. By doing so, you will avoid the very busy road QL51.

To Ho Tram, it’s another 50 km, so about 1 hour’s drive along the coast.

When to go?

Both Vung Tau and Ho Tram are popular beach destinations for people living in Ho Chi Minh City. You will get more sun and a more pleasant experience from November to April, during the dry season. Even if you come in the rainy season, the rain doesn’t usually last longer than an hour or two so it shouldn’t be a big deal for general sightseeing but it may be too cloudy for sunbathing.

Where to stay?

Phuc Lam Hotel & Apartment was of fantastic quality and cost only 10 EUR. Located within walking distance from the beach. For those traveling on a motorbike, there is a secure underground parking.

Vung Tau, Vietnam
Panorama of Vung Tau

What to see in Vung Tau?

Bai Truoc Beach

Situated on the west side of the city. The beach is very popular among locals but rubbish is a big problem. I would mainly recommend it for taking a walk rather than swimming.

Bai Sau Beach

Nice sandy beach with a pleasant promenade for a walk and is close to many hotels. It can get crowded especially during weekends or holiday periods.

Mieu Hon Ba

A small island with a temple that can be accessed only during low tide.

Vung Tau, Vietnam
Mieu Hon Ba
Vung Tau, Vietnam
Top down view of Mieu Hon Ba

Jesus Christ Statue

Located on top of a hill, this 32-meter-long statue is even bigger than its Brazilian version. About 800 stairs take you to its base but the interior of the statue was closed in November 2023. If you try to get here on a motorbike, Google Maps will lead you to the dirt back road which is quite tricky so I recommend parking the bike on the side and continuing on foot.

Vung Tau, Vietnam
The Statue of Jesus Christ

Cap Saint-Jacques (Mui Nghinh Phong)

Good place for a walk with beautiful scenery including grassy hills and sea views.

The Robert Taylor Museum of Worldwide Arms

I’m not into arms at all but I must admit that it’s a unique place opened by a man full of passion. You can find arms and uniforms from around the world as well as the ones coming from the Vietnam War or French Colonial rule. The entrance costs 70.000 VND.

Lighthouse

It was built by the French in 1910 and today the area around acts as the best viewpoint in town.

Panoramic views from the lighthouse

Chon Khong Monastery

Definitely the best monastery in Vung Tau. Very peaceful and quiet, with friendly monks and a big statue of Buddha from where you can appreciate panoramic views over the town.

Vung Tau, Vietnam
Buddha statue in Chon Khong Monastery

Ba Ria – Vung Tau Provincial Museum

A very educational place with English descriptions. It has 4 floors to check out, with information about the history, nature, and the development of Vung Tau area after the war.

White Palace Historical Cultural Relic

The residence used to be the weekend chillout place for the French governor Paul Doumer. There is not much to see inside so the visit is rather quick but still worthwhile. It’s just next to the Ba Ria-Vung Tau Provincial Museum.

Ho May Amusement Park

Quite a dated place with cable car, small water park, alpine coasters, mini-zoo, etc. Only if you have some time to kill but even then I doubt it’s worth the money (400.000 VND).

Ho Tram

The development of a road linking to Ho Chi Ming City together with the construction of big hotels and casinos, transformed this small fishing village into a kind of holiday complex. Unfortunately, like in many places in Vietnam, it looks a bit kitschy, and rubbish on the beach is still a big problem. If you want to enjoy some time on the sand, try Hamptons Pier or Tram Lake Beach.

Ho Tram, Vietnam
Typical basket boats
Ho Tram, Vietnam
Panorama of Ho Tram
Ho Tram, Vietnam
Top-down view of Ho Tram Beach

Ta Cu Mountain, as well as Ke Ga Cape, are located in Bình Thuan Province and are interesting places to visit, especially if you are traveling around Mui Ne or Phan Thiet. In one long day, you can have a fantastic experience of both, the mountain and the sea.

How to get there?

The easiest way would be to rent a motorbike in Phan Thiet or Mui Ne and do the loop checking out both places. If you don’t want to ride yourself, you may hire a taxi or buy an organized tour.

From Phan Thiet: 31 km to Ta Cu Mountain and 32 km to Ke Ga Cape

From Mui Ne: 57 km to Ta Cu Mountain and 58 km to Ke Ga Cape

From Saigon: 157 km to Ta Cu Mountain and 183 km to Ke Ga Cape

You may check your connections at 12Go.Asia

When to go?

Both Ta Cu Mountain and Ke Ga Cape can be visited at any time of the year but you will get more sun and a more pleasant experience from November to April, during the dry season. Even if you come in the rainy season, the rain doesn’t usually last longer than an hour or two so it shouldn’t be a big deal.

Where to stay?

As I was doing the motorbike trip along the Vietnamese coast from the south to the north, I visited Ta Cu Mountain first and then spent the night at Lala Chill Homestay which is perfectly located within walking distance to Ke Ga Cape and only a 40 minutes ride away from Ta Cu Mountain. There are a few places around serving noodle soup and I had the pleasure to share the table with a group of young kids, who were very excited to see a foreigner 🙂

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
Ignore the middle finger 🙂

If you travel by bus, you may base yourself in Phan Thiet or Mui Ne. I was more than happy to stay at Hotel Minh Hang in Phan Thiet the following night but there is a variety of accommodation for everyone.

Ta Cu Mountain

It was a hard decision if I should ride the motorbike to Ta Cu Mountain as the day was very rainy and I was afraid that at 457 meters above sea level, the summit will be covered by clouds. I took a risk and luckily, it was worth it.

There are two ways to get to the top. You can either take a cable car or hike up. I arrived in the afternoon and didn’t have enough time to hike and then arrive at the accommodation before it got dark. Therefore, the choice was simple. Cable car up and cable car down! The ticket costs 250.000 VND per adult. The ride takes about 10 minutes and even though the cars aren’t the most modern, I felt perfectly safe. The mountain scenery and the forest underneath looked breathtaking and a bit spooky after the rain.

Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
The cable car to Ta Cu Mountain
Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
Panoramic views from the cable car

If I had had more time, I would have certainly taken a cable car up and then hike down to have a more complete experience. Well, next time!

The weather in that region can be super hot so if hiking, don’t forget water, suncream, a hat, and some snack. A rainjacket can be useful too, just because it’s Vietnam and in this country, you never know when you can get soaked! The hike should take about 1,5 – 2 hours.

A Buddhist monk named Tran Huu Duc initiated the construction of the Linh Son Truong Tho Pagoda. After his death in 1887, a group of his followers built the lower Long Doan Pagoda. The construction of the reclining Buddha began much later, in 1958.

Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
The impressive complex of pagodas

Due to the bad weather, there was only one family hanging around at the top. From the cable car station, the trail ascends further and leads past many statues of various sizes to the largest reclining Buddha in Vietnam. It’s 49 meters long and 7 meters high. According to online sources, it was made of concrete and painted white. It depicts the reclining Buddha in a state of tranquility and enlightenment, symbolizing peace and serenity.

Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
The biggest reclining Buddha in Vietnam
Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
Reclining Buddha

When I wanted to check out Long Doan Pagoda, a group of aggressive dogs tried to scare me away. I experienced similar situations many times in temples in Laos and Thailand as dogs are usually fed by monks and they regularly hang around temple grounds. Luckily, I was noticed by the monks and they managed to calm the dogs down. Anyway, it wasn’t a pleasant situation.

Ta Cu Mountain, Vietnam
Long Doan Pagoda

Ke Ga Cape

Ke Ga is in fact a small rocky island, also known as Hon Ba, very close to the mainland. During the low tide, a strip of sand nearly connects the two parts. However, don’t attempt swimming there by yourself if the water level is too high as it may be dangerous due to currents. Motorboats or basketboats can be easily found on the beach and local guys will be very happy to take you there. The return ticket should cost about 50,000 – 100,000 VND per person, so you have to negotiate in case you are asked to pay more. Most probably you will be charged an additional 10.000 VND on arrival to enter the island, which I strongly doubt is an official fee as no physical ticket is given.

Ke Ga Cape, Vietnam
The aerial view of Ke Ga Cape
Ke Ga Cape, Vietnam
Unfortunately, the lighthouse isn’t open for tourists

Ke Ga Cape is famous for being the place where the tallest and oldest lighthouse in Vietnam still stands. The structure is about 60 meters high and was designed by a French architect to ensure safe navigation for vessels in that area. The construction was finished in 1899.

According to the locals, the name “Ke Ga” originated from a rocky area on the island that resembles roosters gazing out to the sea. Well, I’m not going to question that. Panoramic views of endless blue waters, unique rock formations, and sandy beaches can be seen all the place but the top of the lighthouse was not accessible to the public as of November 2023.

Ke Ga Cape, Vietnam
Ke Ga Cape
Ke Ga Cape, Vietnam
The beach during the early morning hours

The best moment to be around for photography is sunrise and sunset. In general, the beach around Ke Ga is in relatively good condition. Unfortunately, the rubbish was still there but a bit less than in other parts of the country.

Nakhon Phanom is a city located in Thailand’s Northeastern region, nestled on the picturesque banks of the Mekong River. It is the capital of Nakhon Phanom Province and a key commercial centre in the region, but it also offers plenty of attractions that make it a great destination for tourists. The city is known for its colourful temple Wat Phra That Phanom and it is also the home of the Royal Thai Air Force.

Nakhon Phanom’s nickname is the ‘City of Mountains’ even though the area there is quite flat and the only limestone mountains lie actually across the river in Laos. 

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
The aerial view of Nakhon Phanom

During the Vietnam War, the city served as a major staging point for the U.S. military, which supplied equipment to the Royal Lao Army and the South Vietnamese forces.

There are not many must-see places to visit, however, it was a perfect overnight stop on my nearly two-week road trip around Isaan. I simply love the Mekong River and Nakhon Phanom has a long promenade and cycle lane to explore its banks.

How to get there?

You can travel to Nakhon Phanom in Thailand by either road or air. If you are travelling by road, the nearest cities to Nakhon Phanom are Udon Thani (128 km) and Korat (241 km). The drive from Udon Thani takes about 2 hours and the drive from Korat takes about 3 and a half hours. You can travel by your private vehicle or you can take a bus from the bus station in either city. If you are travelling by air, the nearest airport to Nakhon Phanom is Nakhon Phanom Airport (KOP) which is just 3 km from the city centre. You can fly to this airport from various cities in Thailand including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Udon Thani.

You may check your connections at 123Go.Asia

When to go?

The city can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

I visited this region in May and unfortunately, it wasn’t the best experience as it was scorching hot and most of the waterfalls dried up.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Panorama of the Mekong River

Where to stay?

I stayed at SP Residence and the room was big enough with plenty of parking space in front of the hotel. The air conditioning didn’t work perfectly well but was still good value for money.

What to see?

Naga Monument

A huge brass Naga serpent monument along the Mekong River was built in 2016 and today it’s a favourite place for locals to drop by for prayer and to make merits, or simply to hang around on the nice promenade there.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Naga Monument

Wat Mahathat

A beautiful temple which is characterized by an elaborately decorated spire. Just follow the promenade along the Mekong River southwards from the Naga Monument for about 10 minutes and the temple will be on the right side.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Wat Mahathat

Nakhon Phanom Walking Street

A great and lively place for strolling along the Mekong River, especially at sunset or in the evening. There are some food stalls in case you get hungry.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Nakhon Phanom Walking Street

The Vietnamese Memorial Clock Tower

The tower was built by Vietnamese artisans and given to Nakhon Phanom residents on the event of their return to their homeland in 1960, as a sign of gratitude to Thai people who provided them with shelter during the Indochina War.

Wat Okat

It is considered the most important temple in Nakhon Phanom, with the twin Buddha images of Phra Tio and Phra Thiam which, according to the legend, were floated across the river from Laos.

Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church

A beautiful, peaceful Catholic Church was built in 1926 along the banks of the Mekong River. The catholic faith was first brought to the area by Vietnamese immigrants.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Saint Anna Nong Saeng Church

Former Governor’s Residence Museum

Nakhon Phanom Governor’s Residence Complex was built between 1912 – 1914 in Western colonial architecture style. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej (King Rama IX) and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit spent nights at this complex during the royal visit to northeastern Thailand. Currently, after renovation, it is used as a museum.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Former Governor’s Residence Museum
Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Former Governor’s Residence Museum
Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Former Governor’s Residence Museum

Nakhorn Phanom Courthouse

Pleasant building, beautifully restored. The construction started in 1917 and the opening ceremony followed on April 1st, 1918. In 1950, Thailand had a dispute with Indochina and France, therefore the courthouse was hit by cartridges and bombs causing more than 40 wall crackers. After that, it was repaired and used as the office of Nakhon Phanom Provincial Court until March 3rd 1963, with its basement converted into a jail.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Nakhorn Phanom Courthouse

Maekong Underwater World

A small but exciting place to learn about fish species inhabiting the Mekong River. Some of the catfish are really huge and impressive! The aquarium is about 15 minutes drive from the city centre and the entrance ticket costs 30 THB.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Maekong Underwater World

Ho Chi Minh Museum and House

Ho Chi Minh was a revolutionary leader of Vietnam who is considered to be one of the main forces behind the country’s independence. He was a key figure in the Vietnamese revolutionary movement, leading independence groups in their fight against French, Japanese and American oppressors. Ho Chi Minh lived in Baan Na Chok Village during the late 1920s. The one-storey wooden house has some photographs as well as tools and utensils used by Ho Chi Min in his daily life. It’s a nice and quiet place unless the bus with Vietnamese tourists arrives, for who the area is like a pilgrimage site.

About 300 meters away is a museum or rather a replica of the residence, with some additional exhibitions.

Nakhon Phanom, Thailand
Ho Chi Minh Museum and House

Out of town

Wat Phrathat Phanom Woramahawihan

One of the holiest temples in this region of Thailand. It is believed Buddha’s breast bones are contained inside. Therefore, thousands of people make pilgrimages here, especially during the annual festival. The grounds are busy with photographers and hawkers, so the atmosphere wasn’t my favourite.

Rueang Aram Ratsada Korn Gate

The arch symbolically connects Wat Phra That Phanom with the Mekong River. The architecture around is in a typical French Indochina style.

Wat That Renu

About 50 km south of the city centre of Nakhon Phanom is this beautiful 36-meter-high chedi named Phra That Renu. It was built in 1918 and represents the Laotian style. The design resembles the much older Wat Phra That Pha described in the previous paragraph. Nearby the temple, you will find a textile market with locally made fabrics and clothes.

Ubon Ratchathani is the largest city in Thailand’s Isan region. The city is located in the Sankamphaeng Range on the Mekong River, which forms the natural border between Thailand and Laos. Ubon Ratchathani is famed for its historic Buddhist temples and the vibrant Thai culture that dominates the city’s lifestyle.

The city dates back to at least the 13th century when it was an important trading port in the Siam Empire. It was founded by King U-Thong who reigned from 1238 to 1270. Ubon Ratchathani was an important center for trade between the East and West, and the city was known for its abundant wealth and culture. As the centuries passed, Ubon Ratchathani grew and prospered. A palace was built in 1791 within the city walls. In the early 20th century, Ubon Ratchathani was declared a province in Thailand, and it developed into an important center of culture and education.

Today, Ubon Ratchathani is best known for its annual candle and lantern festival, which is held in July. During this festival, the people of Ubon light hundreds of floating paper lanterns on the Mekong River. This is a centuries-old tradition and one of the most spectacularly beautiful cultural events in Thailand.

In addition, the city is a great base for those wanting to explore surrounding nature, e.g. Kaeng Tana National Park and Pha Taem National Park.

How to get there?

Ubon Ratchathani can be reached by air, train, or bus from Bangkok. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon which take less than an hour. Train and buses are significantly cheaper but the travel time takes between 9 – 11 hours. My preference is the sleeping train which has the best comfort-to-price ratio but the arrival is very early in the morning, so you will need to hang around the city a few hours before checking in to the hotel.

You may also check your connections at 123Go.Asia

When to go?

The city can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

I visited this region in May and unfortunately, it wasn’t the best experience as it was scorching hot and most of the waterfalls dried up.

Where to stay?

I stayed at Phadaeng Hotel and can’t say anything bad about it. It’s nicely located within walking distance of most of the sights, there is a big parking lot and the rooms are clean and spacious.

If you prefer to stay out of town, closer to the Mekong River and national park, I recommend Khong Chiam 2 Hotel in the small town with the same name: Khong Chiam.

What to see?

Wat Phra That Nong Bua

It is one of the most famous and important temples of Ubon Ratchathani Province. The highlight is the gold and white Sri Maha Pho Chedi which was built in 1956 to honor 2500 years of Buddhism and resembles the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India.

Ubon Ratchathani National Museum

In my opinion, the most interesting museum in the region, with ten exhibition rooms organized around two courtyards. It was built in 1918 in Western Colonial architecture to be used as the City Hall. The museum was opened in 1989. The exhibition presents different historic periods as well as textiles, folk music, handicraft, household utensils, and objects related to Buddhism Everything is well explained in English. The entrance ticket costs 100 THB for foreigners.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Wat Maha Wanaram

The temple was established in 1807 by the second ruler of the city and changed its name to Wat Maha Wanaram in 1941. It’s considered to be the principal temple in Ubon Ratchathani, containing one of the province’s most sacred Buddha images – Phrachao Yai In Paeng. It’s a popular place for locals to come over and make merits.

Wat Thung Si Mueang

The temple was constructed during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851) to house a replica of Buddha’s footprint. The most photogenic part is Ho Trai, a small wooden hall used to preserve Buddhist scriptures. It was built in the middle of a pond to keep termites and other insects away.

Thung Sri Mueang

Very nice public park with lots of people jogging in the evening. The highlight of the park is a giant candle sculpture. It is 22 meters high and was completed in 2000.

Thung Sri Muang Night Market

Many different kinds of Thai food with multiple tables to sit and eat. There are also quite a few stalls with Vietnamese dishes.

Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram

Quite a big temple just off the main road. It was built in 1855 during the reign of King Rama IV.

Other sights in the region

Wat Nong Pah Pong

One of the area’s best-known forest monasteries was established by the late Ajahn Chah. Before he died in 1992, he established nearly 100 branch monasteries with thousands of followers, including Western monks who set up branches in Europe and elsewhere. On the monastery grounds, apart from the temple and the golden chedi with Ajahn Chah relics, there is also a museum with exhibits including a life-like statue of Ajahn Chah, his robes and other memorabilia, archaeological finds, Buddhist art, and crafts.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Nong Pah Pong
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Nong Pah Pong

Wat Pah Nanachat

It was established in 1975 by Ajahn Chah as a branch monastery of Wat Nong Pah Pong. An American disciple, Ajahn Sumedho, was invited to lead the community as the first abbot. The monastery aims at providing English-speaking people with the opportunity to train and practice the simple and peaceful lifestyle that the Buddha taught his monks in the forests over 2500 years ago.

Khong Chiam

The main attractions of the town are the two rivers that run through it: the Mun with its blue water and the Mekong which is kind of brownish. You will get the best views from Two-colored River View Point. At the time of my visit in May, I didn’t see much of a difference in color between the two rivers.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Two-colored River View Point
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
There are many little islands on the Mekong River
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Aerial view of two Mekong River and Mun River

Other than that, you may want to visit Wat Tham Khuha Sawan. There are great views over the Mekong River and Laos. Additionally, you can admire a huge gong. It’s free to visit.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Wat Sirindhorn Wararam

The temple is famous for some elements that glow in the dark, especially the floor outside and the symbol of a tree on one of its walls. The best time to see the lights is shortly before sunset. I arrived when it was already completely dark and the temple didn’t impress me that much.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam

Saen Tor Beach

Huge lake with nice and calm beaches, perfect to relax after a day full of sightseeing. You may spot some water buffaloes around.

Kaeng Tana National Park

I had some trouble finding the entrance, so don’t rely fully on Google Maps. If you are driving on Road 2222, take a turn off towards Pak Mun Dam and then continue into the park.

First I walked over the Kaeng Tana Bridge to Don Tana Island. It’s the longest suspension bridge in the Northeast Region of Thailand. The views were nice but there were armies of insane mosquitos in the forest on the other side of the bridge.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Kaeng Tana Bridge to Don Tana Island
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
The Mun River

Then, I parked the car next to the Visitor Center and did a short hike to the viewpoint. On the way, there were some signs indicating the cave but it was just a hole in the rock rather than the cave. Luckily, while coming back to the main track, I saw a small snake.

The walk to the viewpoint was on the open savannah-style terrain so it was unbelievably hot. The track was supposed to be a loop but due to lack of hat and poor signage, I decided to come back the same way.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Pha Phueng Viewpoint
Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Panoramic view over the Mun River

From the parking area, you may also check out a nice viewpoint from which you can see rapids on the Mun River. Be extremely careful when hopping around the huge rocks.

Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand
Rapids on the Mun River

Tat Ton Waterfall is located on the opposite side of Kaen Tana National Park but at the time of my visit (May 2023) it was closed for renovation.

The entrance ticket to the national park for foreigners costs 100 THB.

Pha Taem National Park

One of my favorite national parks in Thailand is located just next to the impressive Mekong River. Pha Taem is named after a large cliff where besides the panoramic views, you can also admire ancient rock paintings. Entry to the park for one day costs 400 THB for foreigners.

The first turn-off when driving from Khong Chiam takes you to Sao Chaliang. It is a natural monolith formed by water and wind erosion that looks like mushrooms. There are visible remains of shells, gravel, and sand in the rock, therefore, it is assumed that about a million years ago, this area used to be the sea. The Meak Mai Sai Than Hin Taek Nature Trail is comprised of 3 pathways. The first trail is 350 meters long, the second one has 1 kilometer and the third one is 2.7 kilometers. I highly recommend doing the longest loop as the views are really beautiful.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang in Pha Taem National Park

Further down the road is Pha Taem Cliff with incredible views over the Mekong River, a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Due to its geographical location to the east, the area is also known as the best place to experience the first rays of the sun in the country.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Pha Taem Cliff

The hiking trail takes you first down the cliff to see ancient prehistoric paintings that were first discovered in 1981. They were made in various styles and techniques and present people, animals (elephant, turtle, catfish, and freshwater stingray), utensils, symbols, and human palms. The paintings are dated to be approximately 3,000 – 2,500 years old. Then you will climb up and return to the parking lot following the path at the top of the cliff. The total distance is nearly 5 kilometres but it is worth it!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Ancient prehistoric paintings with symbols of human palms

Another turn-off from Road 2112 takes you to Soi Sawan Waterfall. From the parking, there is a short walk down to the falls. It was a beautiful sight even though there was very little water in May. From the parking area, you also have the option for a longer hike to Pha Chek Cliff and Pha Moei Cliff. The panorama of the Mekong River from there is simply breathtaking. The distance is about 4.5 km one way which should take 1.5 – 2h to complete.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Soi Sawan Waterfall

Come back to the main road and continue further north. Saeng Chan Waterfall is another interesting place to stop by and quite unusual because the water runs through the hole in the sandstone rock. Take your time to absorb the atmosphere of this place!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The view of the Mekong River from the cliffs

Nearby, there is Thung Na Mueang Waterfall and if you continue following the road along the Mekong River, you will reach its end and the easternmost point of Thailand.

The next two attractions are a bit more difficult to reach. The road up to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is narrow and there are specific times when at which you can go up and down. The schedule as of April 2023 looked as follows:

Time of going up: 04:30 – 06:30, 10:30 – 13:00, 16:00 – 18:00

Time of going down: 07:30 – 09:30, 14:00 -15:00, 19:00 – 19:30

The road seems to be closed during the month of May. Check their website for the most recent information.

The cliff is an easy 10 minutes walk from the car park. Great views over the Mekong and into the mountains of Laos. Consider camping overnight to see the magnificent sunrise! Huai Phok Waterfall is nearby.

On the way to Pha Chana Dai, don’t forget to stop at Twin Pillars which is another sandstone formation shaped like a mushroom. Very photogenic.

Sao Chaliang Yai

Further north, following road 2112, you will notice the turn-off to Sao Chaliang Yai. It is okayish to have a quick look if you have time but there is nothing much except the giant rock pillar, similar to the ones seen in other locations.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai

Pha Chan

The cliff on the Mekong River that goes vertically down on both sides of the river is a very impressive and wonderful place. Park your car at the end of the road and walk down to the riverside. Villagers who come to fish in this area have made a wooden ladder to climb down, in case you want to add some adventure vibe to your visit.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Aerial view of Pha Chan
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Pha Chan

Sam Phan Bok

An excellent landscape with sandstones that have been eroded by the stream of the Mekong River. People also call it the “Grand Canyon of Thailand”. It’s a seasonal attraction so plan your visit in the dry season. Jumping on the back of the pickup truck costs 200 THB per person and I highly recommend it, as walking all the way down on the rocks in that scorching weather can be deadly. You can also hire a guide that will show you some unique rock formations and take pictures of you. More expensive option for exploration includes not only the pickup truck to the Mekong riverbank but also a boat ride.

Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Aerial view of Sam Phan Bok
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
You can get a ride down the riverbank
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
“Mickey Mouse” rock formation
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Unique rocks can be best seen in the dry season

Lai Son and Nam Du are both quite undeveloped islands located in Kien Giang Province. Both places offer a relaxing environment for visitors looking to enjoy nature and the sea. The number of foreign visitors is still minimal but the islands are getting more and more popular among domestic tourists and it is said that future development in terms of tourism is inevitable. I spent three days traveling around Lai Son and Nam Du at the end of 2022. Was it worth it?

How to get there?

I bought my ferry tickets on the route Rach Gia – Lai Son – Nam Du – Rach Gia with Superdong. The islands aren’t as popular as Phu Quoc so there might be just one ferry per day so be careful not to miss it. The whole trip was really smooth and the quality was good.

They have an office in Rach Gia at the following address:

No. 01 Lot 4, 3/2 Street, Vinh Thanh Van Ward, Rach Gia City, Kien Giang Province.
14 Tu Do Street, Vinh Thanh Ward, Rach Gia
Tel: (0297) 3877 742
Email: rachgia.sales@superdong.com.vn

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Travelling by Superdong ferry

You may also check connections with two other companies:  Phu Quoc Express Boat and Ngoc Thanh.

Rach Gia is a port city on the mainland, in the western Mekong Delta region. It can be reached by bus or plane from Ho Chi Minh City. You may check possible connections at 12GoAsia.

When to go?

The dry season in that area starts from December to April. The sea is calm and you will get a lot of sunshine. I was there at the beginning of November and the weather was far from optimal, with quite a lot of rain and clouds.

Where to stay?

Lai Son

Gia An Homestay (Gia An Nha Nghi) was a cheap and comfortable place to stay. It cost me 265.000 VND and I was also able to rent a semi-automatic motorbike there. The room was clean and had air conditioning.

Nam Du

Nam Du View Guesthouse cost about 300.000 VND but it definitely wasn’t the place I would like to come back to. It had a nice terrace just at the seaside and if you went to the market to buy some seafood, the owner could cook it for you there. Unfortunately, it was super loud in the evening when a group of men decided to hang out, and of course as always on such an occasion in Vietnam, there was a karaoke until late hours. Of course, it happens in many places so you may be luckier than me 🙂 The noise was actually the only problem. The owner rents motorbikes too and he gave me a ride back to the port which was nice.

Rach Gia

For those who need to spend the night in Rach Gia before boarding the ferry, I recommend Kiet Hong Hotel. It cost only 180.000 VND, the room was really spacious and the port is just on the other side of the road. You can also leave your motorbike at their parking for a small extra fee.

How to get around?

On both islands, the best is to rent a motorbike and you can easily do so in your accommodation. They will either have one for rent or know someone who has 🙂 Usually, it costs about 150.000 – 200.000 VND per day.

If you travel around Vietnam on your own motorbike, it doesn’t really make sense to transport it on Superdong Ferry as the cost of transfer exceeds the rental fee on the islands. It’s better to leave it at the secure parking at some hotel in Rach Gia.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Fishermen vessels around Lai Son

What to do on Lai Son Island?

Lai Son is located about 50 km southwest of Rach Gia. It is very undeveloped and I really had no idea what to expect. It was definitely a unique experience to be the only foreigner there at that time but all the Vietnamese people were very friendly and I received a lot of smiles. There is just a single road around the island connecting a handful of communities and remote beaches.

From the pier, it was only a short work to my accommodation at Gia An Homestay. Unfortunately, it started to rain just after I checked in and rented a motorbike. That’s why I simply decided to take a nap and wait for a bit better conditions to start my ride.

About noon the weather improved, so I hit the road. I decided to go around the island first and then cross its interior following the road through the mountains. The first stop was at Lăng Ông Nam Hải which is a mausoleum of General Nam Hai overlooking the sea and fishing village.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Lang Ong Nam Hai, Lai Son
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Walking through the fishing village
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The small bay next to the fishermen’s village

In the northern part of the island, there are some beaches such as Khu Du Lịch Bãi Đá or Ông Rùa Hòn Sơn with a kitschy statue of a turtle that everyone wants to take a selfie with. People never stop surprising me. The beaches are small and narrow and were full of rubbish. Definitely not a place for peaceful relaxing. Nearby the Bai Bac village, there is a scenic viewpoint called Đỉnh Núi Ông Rồng, which can be reached in about 30 minutes on foot.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Approaching beaches on the north coast
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The statue of the turtle is a popular selfie spot…

Further, on the east coast is Bãi Bàng Beach, which is probably the best on the island for relaxing, although rubbish is still a big problem there.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Bai Bang Beach

If you feel like hiking and the weather is good, you may climb Ma Thien Lanh for a panoramic view of the island and the sea. I wouldn’t do it after it rained though as the rocks get very slippery. You can shorten the way by hiring a motorbike rider to take you up to Pho Tinh Pagoda, and then it’s less than an hour to the top. It’s quite steep but there are ropes to help you out.

I arrived back at the pier, finishing the loop and after a short break, I follow the road through the interior of the Lai Son from the south to the north and back. It was a pleasant ride on the forested hills with panoramic views of the villages on both ends.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
The road through the interior of Lai Son
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Scenic views around the hills in the central part of the island

At the end of the day, I just walked around the pier and had dinner in one of many seafood restaurants. Basically, you choose from small pools what kind of seafood or fish you want, and then they cook it for you.

Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Lai Son Island and the pier
Lai Son Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Lai Son Island

What to do on Nam Du Island?

The Nam Du is actually an archipelago of over 20 islands, islets, and rocky outcrops. The biggest one is known as Hòn Lớn (the name translates literally as the Big Island), but most often people call it simply Nam Du. Most of the tourism facilities and infrastructure in the archipelago are based here. The rest of the outlying islands are pretty small and some are inhabited, such as Hon Ngang, Hon Mau, or Hon Trung and some are not.

I arrived on Nam Du Island in the morning and the first I walked to the guesthouse. It was about 20 minutes walk and probably the owner would have picked me up on a motorbike if I had asked.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of fishermen’s village on Nam Du
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of fishermen’s village on Nam Du

I rented a motorbike and the plan was rather simple, just to circumnavigate the island, following the main road which is about 15 km long. First, I headed south to Bãi Sỏi Beach, which was a nice photo spot. It’s a stone beach and not very suitable for swimming. At the southern tip of the island, there is a nice viewpoint of three neighboring islands: Nom Trong, Nom Giua, and Nom Ngoai. I took advantage of the nice weather and took off with my drone.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Neighboring islands
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Aerial view of Nam Du

That section of the coast was very pleasant to discover on a motorbike. Soon, I arrived at Bãi Cây Mến which is definitely the best white sand beach on the island for swimming and the best place to chill in a hammock among coconut trees with a cold drink.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Cay Men

Continuing further north, I reached the roadside temple Dinh Nam Hai Ngu Than which worships a whale. These animals are worshiped in quite a few places in Vietnam, especially in fishing communities as deities of the ocean that bring good luck to sailors. An almost complete skeleton of a whale together with some smaller baby whale skulls can be found inside the temple. The fishermen’s village Bãi Ngự is just around the corner. It’s easy to get lost in those narrow streets but if you are lucky, you will find a small local pier with nice views. An even better panoramic view down to the village but also around the whole northern part of Nam Du can be seen from its highest point: Hải Đăng Nam Du. It’s a military area and the top itself cannot be reached, however, the views from the road leading there are already good enough. Ride carefully, as the road is steep and can be challenging for inexperienced bikers.

Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village
Nam Du Island, Vietnam
Bai Ngu fishermen’s village

I finished the loop at An Son, the village with the pier where I arrived earlier that morning by boat from Lai Son. There are some seafood restaurants as well as street vendors selling fruits and pretty much everything else.

As mentioned before, Nam Du is actually an archipelago. Therefore, another popular activity, especially if the weather allows, is island hopping. You can visit islands such as Hon Du, Hon Ngang, Hai Bo Dap, and many others. Snorkeling and diving tours can be organized as well. Boat tours usually follow predefined itineraries visiting the most interesting islands but you can also pay more for a private boat and just discuss the route details with a guide.

Summary

I think I got a bit spoiled visiting over 50 islands in Thailand during my 5 months there in 2022. Many of them are still in my mind as true paradise spots. I don’t regret visiting Lai Son or Nam Du but none of these islands even came close to my favorite Thai islands in terms of beauty. There is certainly a potential but the problem with rubbish is present on the islands on the same, or maybe even worse level than in mainland Vietnam. If you travel in the region for a few weeks or months like I did, then sure, come over and experience the place by yourself. But I don’t recommend fitting Lai Son and Nam Du Islands into your 2 or 3 weeks itinerary. There are simply way better places to visit.

Riding a motorbike in Laos can be a thrilling and adventurous experience, offering you the freedom to explore the country’s scenic landscapes and remote areas. By many, it is claimed to be the absolute best way of traveling there, and even though I had my ups and downs, I agree with that statement. There is nothing better than a full tank and a worry-free ride 🙂

The most obvious city to start and finish the North East Loop is definitely Luang Prabang. The route isn’t as famous as Thakhek Loop and you will seldom meet any other riders. The basic scenario is about 780 km long but there are options for detours, even to remote Sam Nuea next to the border with Vietnam.

When to go?

The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.

I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or at the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution and there is a higher chance to actually enjoy clear views of the mountains.

What to take?

To make your trip as enjoyable as possible, keep your luggage to a minimum and find a way to attach it to the seat of the bike (e.g. using bungee cords) rather than wearing a backpack all the time. There are some essentials you’ll need to ensure a safe and worry-free journey.

  • Protective gear: A high-quality helmet is essential for any motorbike trip. I bought mine in Thailand and used it in Laos or Vietnam as well. If renting one, make sure it fits you well and the quality is good. Never save money on the helmet! You should also invest in riding gloves and pants. You will see plenty of people enjoying the time on the bike in T-shirts, shorts, and flip-flops but trust me, you need more especially for a long-distance trip.
  • Protective covers: Rainproof jackets and covers for your gear and backpack can protect your belongings from rain and dust. Believe me, Laos can be very dusty!
  • Repair kit: Carry a basic repair kit including tools and tire repair materials. This can be helpful in case of any mechanical issues that may arise during your trip. There are lots of villages on the way where people will help you out but you have to get there first, and on some sections, the traffic can be minimal.
  • First aid kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit with bandages, antiseptics, painkillers, and any personal medication you may need.
  • Phone with navigation apps can be useful for finding your way. Be sure to download offline maps in case of poor network coverage.
  • Extra fuel and water: In some remote areas, fuel can be scarce, so it’s wise to carry extra fuel in a plastic bottle, just in case. Additionally, keep an adequate supply of water for hydration.

Motorbike rental

Most hotels and guesthouses rent themselves or can organize a motorbike for you. However, very often you won’t be able to take it out of town for a few days ride. After asking around and reading some reviews, I found Anousay Motorbike Rental. They are a little bit pricier but have a decent selection of bikes and they do allow you to take the bike as far as you wish. As I was traveling solo, I decided to choose Honda Wave which was in a really good condition. Unfortunately, there is no way to leave the deposit instead of the passport. Bungee cords for the luggage were not provided so I had to buy them separately in the nearby shop.

Accommodation

You may notice that there are not many accommodation options available on booking.com or agoda.com, except for Luang Prabang. It’s pretty normal in Laos and it’s not because all the rooms are booked out. The owners simply don’t care about advertising in this way. To get the best deal, check the reviews of guesthouses or hotels on Google Maps, choose a few that you like, and then visit them asking about the room and the price. Very often the deal will be also much better than when booking online.

The route

Stage 1: Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw

Distance: 140 km

Time: 3-4 hours

Difficulty: Easy

There are a lot of things to do in Luang Prabang itself and I described the best activities in the separate article HERE. Once you enjoyed your time there and finally organized your motorbike, it’s time to hit the road!

The first day is a nice introduction to the route as it is also the easiest, mainly because of road conditions which are really good for Laos standards. You will follow Road 13 to the north, following the Mekong River and Nam Ou River, all the way to Pak Mong, where you will turn right and continue for another 30 km to Nong Khiaw.

About 20 km from Luang Prabang, you have the first detour option to Pak Ou Caves. You can later rejoin Road 13 following a mostly unpaved road along the Nam Ou River. The caves are filled with thousands of gold lacquered Buddha statues of various shapes and sizes that have been placed there over the centuries. I would say that the area and the way to the caves are more interesting than the caves themselves.

Nong Khiaw is a small village located on the west bank of the Nam Ou River which attracts more and more tourists who want to experience rural life. Narrow footpaths ascend steep limestone cliffs to provide you with panoramic views. There are also caves and fantastic multiple-day hiking opportunities to even smaller villages, with an overnight at the atmospheric homestay.

Nong Khiaw, Laos
Panorama of Nong Khiaw from one of many viewpoints

I stayed here for 4 days, so much more than I intended as I am keen on hiking. It was totally worth it and from the perspective of time, I think it was the best place on the entire loop. The full description of this lovely place can be found HERE.

Nong Khiaw, Laos
Nong Khiaw

Accommodation:

I stayed two first nights at Nam Ou Riverlodge, which is nicely located just at the riverside. The bed was comfortable and there was a mosquito net which I always appreciate ? The hot shower was fine, though the pressure was quite weak. The room costs about 220.000 LAK per night. The owner also organizes all kinds of tours, so if you want to do a hike, you won’t have to look any further.

Later, as the room was not available for extension, I stayed at Arthith Guesthouse. The views from the terrace were even better, and the room was clean and cozy. It was slightly more expensive than Nam Ou Riverlodge (300.000 LAK) but a delicious breakfast was included in the price.

Stage 2: Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam

Distance: 167 km

Time: 5-6 hours

Difficulty: Medium

This section was one of the most difficult for me on the entire route. There is very little traffic but the road is winding, with frequent potholes and some parts of it are unpaved for a few hundred meters just to become paved again and then the whole scenario repeats. Basically, you can’t lose your focus even for a second as it can cost you an accident. Ride carefully! There are villages on the way but food options are limited to snacks so better take something with you from Nong Khiaw.

The road from Nong Khiaw to Muang Hiam

Stay on the Road 1C for the whole time. There are a lot of picturesque mountain panoramas so take your time and plan some stops to fully enjoy it.

Muang Hiam is a small town that doesn’t see many tourists. The highlight is definitely Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park and I recommend you to visit their Information Centre. There you can learn about the work they are doing to conserve some of Lao’s most endangered species. They also offer multiple day hikes as well as 24 Hours Night Safari which I wanted to do but it turned out to be crazy expensive for a solo traveler like me and there were no other people willing to join. Next time!

Natural hot springs are located a bit further north beyond Nam Et-Phou Louey Information Center, just follow the dirt road. Nothing too exciting to do there but you may walk around and buy some eggs for cooking in the boiling waters if you get hungry.

Accommodation:

I stayed at Heungkhamxay Guesthouse with an airconditioned room for 150.000 LAK per night. There are not too many restaurant options in the town but you will find some around the Nam Khan River Bridge.

Stage 3: Muang Hiam to Phonsavan

Distance: 207 km

Time: 6-7 hours

Difficulty: Easy

Quite an easygoing section although a long one. The road is paved and in relatively good condition. Follow road 1C for about 60 km until you reach an intersection in Ban Kor Hing. Then, turn right and head for about 90 km to the south towards Muang Kham. It’s worth making a short detour to Tham Piew Cave. It’s a historical site that was the scene of a human tragedy during the war. In 1968 the US Air Force fired a missile directly into the cave, which at the time was used as a shelter. 374 people were killed. The interior of the cave is filled with small rock piles, as a memorial to all those who died.

The entry to Tham Piew Cave

In Muang Kham you can refuel and easily find something to eat, so it’s a good place for a longer break.

If you still have some energy and time and are up to some offroad adventure, you may do a detour to Ban Phakheo Village. Normally, 2 days hike to that Hmong village, including a visit to nearby Jar Site 52 and Tad Ka Waterfall costs way over 100 USD when organized for a group of 1-2 people from Phonsavan. I believe it’s way too much for a hike in Laos so why not go on a motorbike independently? Look for “Turn-off to Tad Ka Waterfall” in Google Maps and follow the dirt road for about 1,5 km when you will have the junction to Pakheo. Turn right and just follow the dirt road passing by some other small villages on the way, until you reach your destination. The road is in decent condition and can be easily done on Honda Wave or similar. The panoramic views around the mountains are amazing and the location of Ban Phakheo is superb too. It’s well worth visiting here independently, even though the hike must be nice too.

Ban Phakheo Village, Laos
On the way to Ban Phakheo
Only a few friendly locals in Ban Phakheo Village

From Muang Kham, it’s another 55 km to Phonsavan, the capital of Xiengkhouang Province. There is not a lot to do in Phonsavan town itself, but you can easily spend two days exploring the area, especially the nearby Plain of Jars. Those mysterious giant stones are empty inside and archaeologists assume that they were used for burial rituals. Other places worth seeing are Muang Khoun, which was once the royal seat of the small kingdom of Xieng Khuang or Long Chien, a secret CIA airbase that was once the busiest single strip airport in the world, although getting there may be difficult on a small motorbike so check with your guesthouse first.

You can read all about Phonsavan and nearby attractions in a separate article HERE.

Plains of Jars, Laos
The Plain of Jars around Phonsavan

Accommodation:

I arrived without a reservation at Kongkeo Guesthouse and took a private room for 200.000 LAK. They offered also a bed in a dormitory for 70.000 LAK but I had to work online on that night. It was a nice room with a double bed, mosquito net, and a hot shower with really good water pressure which isn’t a norm in Laos. Laundry is available too, at 20.000 LAK per kilogram.

Alternative:

Stage 3 can be broken into two parts with possible extensions to Sam Nuea and Viang Xai Caves.

Stage 3.1: Muang Hiam to Sam Nuea

Distance: 152 km

Time: 6 hours

Difficulty: Easy

From Muang Hiam, follow Road 1C to the intersection in Ban Kor Hing, and then instead of turning right, continue straight staying on Road 1C. From this point, it will take you about 3 hours to arrive at Sam Nuea. Take a walk around the town and visit the lively Fresh Market.

Fresh Market in Sam Nuea

Viang Xai Caves are another 30 km outside of the town but are well worth visiting. We got an audio guide, but next to that, our guide explained a lot himself as well. It’s quite shocking to learn how thousands of Lao people successfully hid in the caves from the massive US bombing during the Secret War. There is a tour at 9 AM and another one at 1 PM. Entrance fee: 60,000 LAK. If you arrive outside of the tour hours, you will need to pay extra.

Inside the Viang Xai Caves
The landscape around Viang Xai

Accommodation:

The room at Khamxam Guesthouse in Sam Nuea was really spacious and comfortable. There is a parking in front and they lock the bikes for the night.

Stage 3.2: Sam Neua to Phonsavan

Distance: 239 km

Time: 7 – 9 hours

Difficulty: Medium

The main difficulty is the long distance, but taking into consideration a number of interesting sights on the way (Tham Piew Cave, Ban Phakheo), it would be smart to break it into easier and more enjoyable 2 days. You need to ride back to the intersection in Ban Kor Hing and then turn left, following the original Stage 3 described above.

The landscape near Sop Lao Village

Accommodation:

As already mentioned above, Kongkeo Guesthouse in Phonsavan cost me 200.000 LAK. They offered also a bed in a dormitory for 70.000 LAK if you don’t mind sharing the room.

You may also break the ride and spend the night in Keomixay Guesthouse in Sop Lao Village. It will work especially well if you spend the morning at Viang Xai Caves, as then reaching Phonsavan on the same day is rather unrealistic.

I did some drone flying nearby Sop Lao Village

Stage 4: Phonsavan to Phou Khoun

Distance: 136 km

Time: 4 – 5 hours

Difficulty: Medium

The road is paved and in good condition but very winding so take your time and stay focused. In my opinion, it’s the most scenic and enjoyable ride on this loop, with vast panoramic views of the mountains and the valleys with Hmong villages below.

The North East Loop in Laos

Accommodation:

In Phou Khoun, turn left and follow Road 13 in the southern direction. After about 3 km you will pass by Sala Phou Khoun Guesthouse. There is no obvious sign but as soon as I stopped, I was greeted by the owner who showed me the room. They also cooked dinner and breakfast for me which was very delicious. The views from the terrace at sunset must be splendid too but at that time of the year, air pollution due to agriculture burnouts was just horrible.

Stage 5: Phou Khoun to Luang Prabang

Distance: 128 km

Time: 5 – 6 hours

Difficulty: Hard

This section was definitely my most horrible motorbike ride in Laos. Even though for most of the distance the road is paved, it’s still covered in dust due to many trucks passing by every day. Overtaking is difficult due to many tight corners and sometimes you are just stuck for a few kilometers behind a huge truck, riding in the cloud of dust. Prepare yourself as much as you can, preferably wearing a decent face mask.

At some point, I even lost interest in the views and taking any pictures as I didn’t want the trucks that I had already overtaken to catch up with me. So, I simply pushed all the way back to Luang Prabang to return the bike and enjoy a hot shower in the guesthouse. The bike return went smoothly. I simply had to pay something extra as I agreed through Whatsapp to extend the rental period and then I got my passport back.

Accommodation:

I spent in Luang Prabang probably over a week in total. During this time, I stayed in three different guesthouses.

The first one was Beauty Season 1935 Hotel. Nothing too fancy but a pleasant stay. I didn’t like the entrance door to the room with a kind of wooden shutter so you can hear everything from the outside and probably people outside could hear you talking inside the room until late hours at night. Not ideal for digital nomads to have Skype calls.

The second and best one was Chaliya Boutique Garden. Comfortable room with fast internet and free bikes available for exploration of the city. The only problem was the price (25 – 30 USD per night) and I also didn’t like the fact that everything was quoted in USD and not in local currency.

The last one was PP Guesthouse where are arrived without booking. You should get a double room for around 12 USD, including a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, during 5 days of staying there, the room was never cleaned and I had to empty the rubbish bin myself as the teenage staff was too busy with their mobile phones.

Final thoughts

Was it worth riding the North East Loop in Laos? Once I finished it, I felt great satisfaction but it was also a challenging and tiring experience. Long hours on the bike, sometimes on poor-quality roads, not to mention the last day which totally destroyed me. Mae Hong Son Loop in Thailand and Ha Giang Loop were great and I would jump on the bike and ride them once again immediately. I can’t say the same about the North East Loop in Laos though. It’s one of these experiences that are good to do once in your life, but I definitely wouldn’t repeat it, or simply I would save my nerves and butt and do it on a bus.

One of my favourite national parks in Thailand is located just next to the impressive Mekong River. Pha Taem is named after a large cliff where besides the panoramic views, you can also admire ancient rock paintings. There are excellent hiking trails and well-maintained campsites.

How much is the entrance fee?

The ticket for one day costs 400 THB for foreigners, so it’s quite expensive compared to other national parks. To fully enjoy it, I suggest spending two days in the park, including camping on one of the cliffs.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Panorama of the Mekong River

How to get there?

Ubon Ratchathani can be reached by air, train, or bus from Bangkok. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon which take less than an hour. Train and buses are significantly cheaper but the travel time takes between 9 – 11 hours. My preference is the sleeping train which has the best comfort-to-price ratio but the arrival is very early in the morning, so you will need to hang around the city a few hours before checking in to the hotel.

From Ubon Ratchathani, you will need to get a bus or minibus further to Khong Chiam.

You may check your connections at 123Go.Asia

How to get around?

You can travel comfortably through the park by car or motorbike. If you are in Khong Chiam, ask around at your accommodation or Baan Steak Restaurant.

If you plan a long road trip in Isan, I recommend renting a car in Ubon Ratchathani. In bigger cities, there is always more competition and better prices. I used the services of Smile Rent a Car and got a well-maintained and cheap Toyota Yaris.

Smile Rental Car Thailand
Nice and well maintained rental car

When to go?

The park has a monsoon climate with three seasons: the rainy season (June to October), the cool season (October to February), and the dry and hot season (February to June). The waterfalls will look the best in the middle or at the end of the rainy season. Other periods are nice as well but be aware that in May, the road to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is closed and there is very little or no water in the falls.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The Mekong River seen from the cliffs
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The views are fantastic and next time I will definitely camp on the cliffs!

Where to stay?

I recommend the Khong Chiam 2 Hotel in the small town of the same name. It’s conveniently located close to the main road and the night market. The room was clean and very spacious, with fast internet.

Itinerary

The first turn-off when driving from Khong Chiam takes you to Sao Chaliang. It is a natural monolith formed by water and wind erosion that resembles mushrooms. There are visible remains of shells, gravel, and sand in the rock, therefore, it is assumed that about a million years ago, this area used to be the sea. The Meak Mai Sai Than Hin Taek Nature Trail is comprised of 3 pathways. The first trail is 350 meters long, the second one has 1 kilometer and the third one is 2.7 kilometers. I highly recommend doing the longest loop as the views are really beautiful.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Impressive Sao Chaliang rock formations
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
I highly recommend hiking around that area

Further down the road is Pha Taem Cliff with incredible views over the Mekong River, a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Due to its geographical location to the east, the area is also known as the best place to experience the first rays of the sun in the country.

The hiking trail takes you first down the cliff to see ancient prehistoric paintings that were first discovered in 1981. They were made in various styles and techniques and present people, animals (elephant, turtle, catfish, and freshwater stingray), utensils, symbols, and human palms. The paintings are dated to be approximately 3,000 – 2,500 years old. Then you will climb up and return to the parking lot following the path at the top of the cliff. The total distance is nearly 5 kilometres but it is worth it!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The hiking path leads at the bottom of the cliff
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Rock paintings can be seen in several places
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
They present people, animals, utensils, symbols…
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
…and human palms
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The way back to the parking is at the top of the cliff

Another turn-off from Road 2112 takes you to Soi Sawan Waterfall. From the parking, there is a short walk down to the falls. It was a beautiful sight even though there was very little water in May. From the parking area, you can also take a longer hike to Pha Chek Cliff and Pha Moei Cliff. The panorama of the Mekong River from there is simply breathtaking. The distance is about 4.5 km one way which should take 1.5-2h to complete.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Not too much water flowing at the end of May
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Nevertheless, the rock formations are worth seeing

Come back to the main road and continue further north. Saeng Chan Waterfall is another exciting place to stop by and quite unusual because the water runs through the hole in the sandstone rock. Take your time to absorb the atmosphere of this place!

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Saeng Chang Waterfall

Nearby, there is Thung Na Mueang Waterfall and if you continue following the road along the Mekong River, you will reach its end and the easternmost point of Thailand.

The next two attractions are a bit more difficult to reach. The road up to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is narrow and there are specific times when you can go up and down. The schedule as of April 2023 looked as follows:

Time of going up: 04:30 – 06:30, 10:30 – 13:00, 16:00 – 18:00

Time of going down: 07:30 – 09:30, 14:00 -15:00, 19:00 – 19:30

The road seems to be closed during the month of May. Check their website for the most recent information.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
The road to Pha Chana Dai Cliff

The cliff is an easy 10 minutes walk from the car park and provides great views over the Mekong and into the mountains of Laos. Consider camping overnight to see the magnificent sunrise! Huai Phok Waterfall is nearby.

On the way to Pha Chana Dai, don’t forget to stop at Twin Pillars which is another sandstone formation shaped like a mushroom. Very photogenic!

Further north, you may visit Pha Chang, another scenic area with lower cliffs on the Mekong riverbank. It’s free to visit and you can park your car just at the end of the road and walk down the remaining distance. In the same area, you will find Sao Chaliang Yai, which is another rock formation resembling a giant mushroom.

Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Sao Chaliang Yai
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Mekong riverbank at Pha Chang
Pha Taem National Park in Thailand
Less impressive but still scenic cliffs

Nearby

Sam Phan Bok

This place doesn’t belong to Pha Taem National Park but it’s pretty close to it and in my opinion, you can’t miss it. Sam Phan Bok means 3000 holes and as soon as you see the landscape, you will understand why it is called like that. The waters of the Mekong River eroded sandstone rocks into unique shapes. You may walk down there by yourself or hire a pickup truck for 150 THB to give you a lift. The distance isn’t long but it’s exposed terrain and on a sunny day it can be incredibly hot. There are people selling drinks and you may also accept the service of a young local guide showing you around, pointing at some unique rock formations such as Mickey Mouse, and taking photos of you.

Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Pick-up trucks take tourists to the riverbank
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Top-down view of eroded rocks
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Aerial views of Sam Phan Bok
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
Mickey Mouse 🙂
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
You can wander around freely or hire a young guide to show you around
Sam Phan Bok, Thailand
The place is best seen in the dry season when the water level is low

Traveling through the Isan region of Thailand was a wonderful experience, mainly because of the amazing landscape filled with national parks and the breathtaking Mekong River. I haven’t visited too many temples there, mainly because I felt a bit bored with them after seeing so many in the last few years. But Wat Phu Tok was completely different and I was so happy to explore it!

How to get there?

The temple can be reached from Nakhon Phanom, Udon Thani, or Nong Khai, and from all these places the driving time will take about 2.5 – 3 hours. Alternatively, get a bus to Bueng Kan and organize your further transport there, by renting a car/motorbike or hiring a driver. The best would be to consult the options at your accommodation.

You may check your connections at 12Go.Asia

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Temples in Thailand can be really unique!

When to go?

The temple can be visited at any time of the year. The dry season runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is generally mild, sunny, relatively dry, and with less humidity.

I visited this region in May and unfortunately, it wasn’t the best experience as it was scorching hot, and walking around the rock wasn’t easy.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Impressive walkways around the mountain

Sightseeing

I didn’t have any problems with finding a parking space inside the temple grounds. Understandably, there weren’t too many people willing to expose themselves to the sun in a massive heatwave that was over Thailand at that time with over 45 C every day. It would be smart to plan your visit in the early morning or later afternoon.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Wat Phu Tok

Around the parking, there is another big temple with a beautiful lake as well as Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto, dedicated to the founder of the entire place.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
The area near the parking

I grabbed my water bottle and started climbing the wooden stairs and ladders up the rocky mountain of Phu Thok. Even though there was some shadow created by the trees, I stopped frequently to wipe the sweat off my forehead.

Wat Phu Tok is certainly one of the most unique and exciting temples I’ve visited in Thailand. The whole experience of climbing and the panoramic view from the top reminded me of the visit to Wat Chalermprakiat Mountain Temple in Lampang Province in 2022.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
One of the caves with plenty of statues

Phu Tok Mountain is 359 meters high, and the name literally means “a lonely mountain”. Indeed, there aren’t any other significant peaks in that area. Due to its isolation from the outside world, it seemed to be the perfect place for meditation, and the construction was initiated by Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto, one of Thailand’s most venerated monks. Several wooden staircases, ladders, and walkways were created on seven levels to connect meditation places, shrines, and Buddha statues. Number seven is not a coincidence as it relates to the seven stages of awakening that lead to Nirvana. The construction was finished by 1980, including the walkways into the sides of the cliff, providing a 360-degree panoramic view of Bueng Kan District.

The navigation is rather simple and even though sometimes you will have to decide to turn left or right, the best is to just follow your intuition and immerse yourself into this place. Sooner or later you will reach the top level anyway. Keep in mind that following wooden walkways hanging at the edge of the cliff is not something for people afraid of heights. The construction is stable, but still, it’s hard to get rid of the thought that you are several hundred meters from the ground.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
The impressive walkway around the rock
Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
It’s definitely not for those afraid of heights

On level 5, you will see an impressive boulder and a small pavilion with the relics of the Buddha and a statue of Ajarn Juan. The views are breathtaking and it’s a good photo spot to capture the walkways installed on the rocky wall.

Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Pavilion with the relics of the Buddha
Wat Phu Tok, Thailand
Pavilion and nearby landscape

The summit of Wat Phu Tok is on the 7th level, but it’s mostly covered with vegetation. There will be two nice spots for taking photos if you decide to make a loop walk around that area. I strongly recommend doing so!

When going down, I was trying to take different walkways and staircases than I did on the way up. The whole sightseeing experience took me about 2 hours, at a rather relaxing pace. It was a good and sweaty exercise but worth it! Some of the walkways may look a bit terrifying but in the end, I felt only positive thrill and excitement.

Other places to visit

As already mentioned, visiting Wat Phu Tok should take you between 2-3 hours. If you have your transport, you may want to fill up your day with some of the attractions mentioned below.

Chet Si Waterfall

It takes about 1 kilometer of walking to get to the waterfall from the parking area. There are several levels to explore but be careful as the rocks may be slippery. Best to visit in the rainy season, otherwise there might be no water and no fun 🙂

Unfortunately dry Chet Si Waterfall

Tham Phra Waterfall

On my visit in May, the waterfall has run mostly out of water but I still enjoyed the visit to this place. The sandstone cliffs are beautiful and the eroded pools filled with water are good for cooling down. It’s an excellent place to take some pictures and enjoy nature. You need to get a short boat ride from the pier to get there, which usually cost 50 THB per person for a round trip but you might be charged more if you are a solo traveler.

Three Whale Rock

Another stunning rock formation in the region with incredible views of the Isan countryside and the Mekong River in the distance. The bus to the top together with a guide will take you to five stops including Three Whale Rock. It costs 500 THB per vehicle which can fit up to 8 people. Yellow tape lets you know how far you can go toward the edge of the rock.

Phu Langka National Park

A great park with well-maintained trails. The most popular one to Nakee Cave takes about 3 hours for a round trip and a moderate level of fitness is required. When going up, you need to take at least one guide per group of no more than 10 people. No need to book in advance but it’s recommended to go early in the morning to avoid heat. During the rainy season, there is a beautiful waterfall along the trail. The park seems to be closed in May. The entrance fee is 200 THB for foreigners.

Naka Cave

The round trip takes about 4 hours and you should be moderately fit. There are lots of stairs to climb so carry plenty of water and something to eat. The mountain has rocks with the texture of snakeskin and also some rocks that look like snake heads. During the weekends, it’s recommended to book your hiking trip with the QueQ application. You will be assigned a guide who will accompany you and tell you more about the cave and the mountains around.

Located in Thailand’s Nakhon Ratchasima Province, Khao Yai National Park has a long and fascinating history. It was established as the country’s first national park in 1962 and is now one of the most popular tourist destinations not far from Bangkok. The area is home to stunning waterfalls, rainforests, mountains, as well as elephants, and other incredible wildlife. Read on to discover the amazing attractions that await you inside and outside of the park!

How to get there?

Khao Yai National Park is located about 180 kilometres northeast of Bangkok and about 3-4 hours’ drive from the capital. If travelling by public transport, the best option would be to take a train or bus from Bangkok to Pak Chong and then hail a taxi, take a songthaew or rent a motorbike for a one-hour drive to the Khao Yai.

You may also check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

When to go?

The park can be visited during the whole year, however, the chances of animal encounters or the size of waterfalls will vary significantly.

The hot seasons last from March to May. While it isn’t as hot as it is in the cities, the rainfall is very low and waterfalls aren’t too impressive, or some may even dry up completely. The advantage is a minimal number of leeches.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

The rainy season lasts from June to September. Waterfalls are and their best and you can hear a loud noise of flowing water even from a distance. The vegetation is green and dense. Unfortunately, there are plenty of leeches so you will need to be extra careful.

The cool season lasts from October to February and the average temperatures are the lowest during the year. It can get especially cold in the mountains during the night. The skies are blue and the visibility is excellent. As this period is just after the end of the rainy season, the waterfalls are still nice to see, especially in October.

Where to stay?

I decided to stay in Pak Chong, which is a bigger town not far from the national park. I recommend this option for people working online, as it may be hard to find reliable WIFI in nature. The place I stayed in was called Pak Chong Hostel & Wildlife Tours and it was excellent. The room is simple and only with a fan, but it was just enough for me. The owner is incredibly friendly. He picked me out from the train station, took me for lunch, rented a motorbike, explained the best things to do in the park and even provided me with leech socks. He also organizes tours, which may be a good option in case you are travelling in a bigger group. The only disadvantage of staying in Pak Chong is the distance to the national park entrance gate. It’s about 30 km and 40 minutes of riding a motorbike.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

For those without the need of being connected to the Internet, the best would be to stay at a campsite or in a bungalow inside the park. It would give you much higher chances for encounters with wildlife at dawn and dusk.

What to take?

It’s a tropical environment and there are a few items that you definitely should take with you, to make your trip enjoyable and safe.

1. Sunscreen

2. Insect Repellent

3. Leech socks

4. Hat

5. Sunglasses

6. Lightweight and comfortable clothing

7. Trekking shoes

8. Water bottle

9. Snacks

10. Raincoat or poncho

11. First aid kit

12. Camera

13. Binoculars

14. Map of the park

Entrance fee

The ticket is quite pricey compared to other national parks in Thailand, but taking into consideration its size, it’s understandable. As of May 2023, foreign adults will pay 400 THB and children 200 THB. Thai citizens of course will pay much less, 40 THB for adults and 20 THB for children. Unfortunately, the double price policy is quite standard in this country. There is a small additional fee if you are entering the park with a motorbike or car.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

What to do inside the park

Chao Phor Khao Yai Shrine

It is the first sight that you will see when entering the national park from the Pak Chong side. The shrine was erected in memory of Mr Jang Nisaisat, the individual who had protected the animals and forest of Khao Yai and was widely respected by local villagers.

Km. 30 Viewpoint

Shortly after passing the shrine, you will encounter this beautiful viewpoint. It faces the north and in the morning there is often a sea of mist below the mountain range.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Trail #3: Km. 33 – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 4.2 km one-way

Time: 2.5 – 3 hours

The trail starts at the roadside by the Km. 33 milestone. It was highly recommended by my host in Pak Chong to hike it first and preferably do it in the early morning. He was right! It was definitely the highlight of my visit. You will see different types of vegetation: mature dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. I saw hornbills, gibbons and some other insects. The sound made by gibbons was amazing! Closer to Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower, you can see some traces of elephants as they come near the water sources and salt licks. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any at that time.

From the observation tower, you may either hike back the same way or continue to the asphalt road and hitchhike back to your car or motorbike. The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #5: Dong Tiw – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 5.5 km one-way

Time: 3 hours

The trail can be combined with #3 in one big loop. It starts at the side of Thanarat Road about 200m from the Visitor Center at Sai Sorn Reservoir and finishes around Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower. The highlight of this trail is a giant Baing tree which is centuries old.

The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #4: Dong Tiw – Sai Sorn Reservoir

Distance: 2.7 km one-way

Time: 1.5  – 2 hours

This one-way trail leads to Sai Sorn Reservoir, a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. It is just a much shorter version of trail #5. In the rainy season, you may see a beautiful array of flowers such as balloon plants, begonia and mossiata. The trail also connects with #5 and #7.

Trail #7: Thai-American Friendship Trail

Distance: 2 km loop

Time: 1.5  hours

It starts and ends at the Ridge of Sai Sorn Reservoir. The trail celebrates the long and friendly relations between Thailand and the USA. You will walk through dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. Frequently encountered wildlife include the Siamese Fireback, silver pheasant, gibbons and hornbills.

Trail #1: Visitor Center – Kong Kaew Waterfall

Distance: 1.2 km loop

Time: 45 mins – 1 hour

The trail begins at the hanging bridge behind the Visitor Center. This is the shortest and the easiest trail in the national park. Animals encountered might include the Lar gibbon, pileated gibbon and various birds. At the end of the trail is a small Kong Kaew Waterfall. Nothing too impressive but a pleasant place to rest next to the stream with volcanic rocks.

Trail #6: Visitor Center – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 8 km one-way

Time: 6 hours

The longest and the most challenging trail in the national park. You will walk through both rainforest and dry forests interspersed with bamboo groves. Animals encounters may include elephants, gibbons, Asian black bears and hornbills. There are many twists and turns, so the route may be confusing, and this is why you should consider arranging an experienced trail guide. The reward at the end is one of the two most beautiful waterfalls in the park.

The hikes should be started before 10.00. It is closed between July 1st – August 31st.

Trail #2: Pha Kluai Mai Campground – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 3 km one-way

Time: 2 hours

This nature trail links two waterfalls, following the Lam Ta Khong stream. Along the trail, you will hear the thundering sound of Pha Kluay Mai Waterfall during the rainy season. Unfortunately, in May the water level was very low so the trail wasn’t that impressive to me. On the other hand, when water levels drop, you can see the traces of lava flow from a volcano hundreds of millions of years ago.

Haew Suwat Waterfall

One of the two most impressive waterfalls in the Khao Yai National Park. Lam Ta Khong stream falls 25 metres down the volcanic rock. There is a nice viewpoint where the falls can be seen through vegetation but for a much better experience, you should go down quite steep steps to the basin. In the dry season, you may check out the cave just behind the water curtain.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Sai Sorn Reservoir

A picturesque place with plains for picnics and sufficient parking along the road. A popular place for event photography too. Hiking trails #4, #5 and #7 pass nearby.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand
Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Pha Diaw Dai Viewpoint

The wooden boardwalk is approximately 450 meters long and leads you through a pristine forest, which is extremely atmospheric in the wet weather. The views from the stony edge of the cliff over the Rom Khwang mountain range are truly breathtaking.

While driving up here, you will pass by Viewpoint 3 at Yod Khao Khieo Mountain. The panorama is great as well but there is no place to stop and park a car or motorbike.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand
Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Pha Trom Jai Cliff

It is located 600 metres from the Pha Diaw Dai, just next to the entrance to the Royal Thai Air Force radar station. At an elevation of 1,290 meters above sea level, this is the highest viewpoint in the central region of Thailand. The view, however, isn’t the best.

Haew Narok Waterfall

Haew Narok is located to the south of Khao Yai National Park on Highway 3077, about 23 km from the Visitor Center. It’s an excellent road through the dense forest with a high chance of seeing wild elephants, especially in the later afternoon. Drive slowly!

The waterfalls are the largest and tallest in the park (150 metres). From the parking, there is a 1-kilometre trail going over Huay Samor Poon Stream and then down the steep staircase to the best viewpoint.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

According to the national park website, the area of the waterfall is a permanent part of wild elephants’ foraging range, which has been the cause of tragedy with elephants falling down the waterfall. The first time was on 2 August 1992, when a family of 8 elephants was lost as they were crossing the stream in the forest at the top of Haew Narok Waterfall, making it known as an elephant graveyard”. On 5 October 2019, another 11 elephants were lost.

Night Safari

When joining the tour, you may see nocturnal animals, such as sambar deer, Malayan porcupine, large Indian civet, Asian palm civet, wild elephant, owls and nightjars. Inquire and reserve a time slot at Khao Yai Visitor Center, at the service desk before 6 p.m. The guided journey on a pick-up truck is 10 km long and takes about one hour. The price is 600 THB per vehicle fitting up to 10 people.

Whitewater Rafting

The rainy season from July to October is the best for this activity as the water current is strong and turbulent, and suitable for rafters wanting to be challenged. Hin Phoeng Rapids is used as a starting point and then a trip continues on a 2.5 km stretch with 6 rapids called Kaeng Hin Phoeng, Kaeng Phak Nam Lom, Kaeng Wang Bon, Kaeng Luk Seua, Kaeng Wang Sai and Kaeng Ngu Hao.

What to do outside of the park

Ban Tha Chang Spring

A popular place for locals to come for a dip. Very clear water with plenty of space to enjoy. You may also rent a kayak and check out the small river. Free entrance and free parking

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Khao Yai Art Museum

Surprisingly good place with paintings and sculptures of local artists. Don’t miss a walk in the garden which is full of art installations. Free entrance.

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Wat Tham Sila Thong

Ask the monk to give you a key to a cave. It has a hole in the ceiling, but the cave is quite dark so it’s good to have your own flashlight.

Bat Cave

It’s not really a cave to explore, but rather an observation point for a spectacle straight from National Geographic documentaries. At dusk, thousands of bats fly out of the cave in a continuous stream. Unique and amazing experience! The show of nature usually happens between 5:45 PM – 7 PM and lasts for a surprisingly long time. Over 20 minutes once I was there!

Khao Yai National Park, Thailand

Sarika Waterfall

Another nice waterfall with a beautiful winding road up the mountains to get there. Entrance ticket for foreigners costs 200 THB and for Thais 40 THB. As in all the other waterfalls in this region, it’s best to visit in the rainy season.

Nang Rong Waterfall

Small and free waterfall but unfortunately not very well maintained. A popular picnic place for local people.

Khun Dan Prakarn Chon Dam

The longest and largest dam in Thailand. You can either walk or rent an electric golf cart to get to the other side. Obviously, I recommend walking. There’s also an option to go on a boat trip further down the lake and to the nearby waterfall.