Koh Yao Yai (South Island) is the bigger sister of Koh Yao Noi (North Island), located in the middle of the spectacular Phang Nga Bay in the Andaman Sea, between Krabi and Phuket. It’s much less developed than touristy Phuket, which makes it an ideal place to experience a more real and rural Thai island atmosphere. The majority of the population is Muslim so don’t be surprised to see mosques and hear calls for prayer.

It’s an excellent place to be if you love relaxing rather than hardcore parties which you may find in Phuket or Koh Phi Phi. Let me suggest to you how to organize a trip there and what is worth visiting!

How to get to Koh Yao Yai?

The island can be reached only by sea from several places, but the easiest would be to start in Phuket or in Krabi. You could also look for speedboat connections from Koh Lanta or Koh Lipe. I decided to take a speedboat from Krabi and the experience was very smooth.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Yao Yai is the same as for all the other islands in that area, from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, accommodation may be cheaper but it’s better to check the boat schedule well in advance as may get wet frequently.

How long to stay?

Koh Yao Yai is quite a small island but you should consider the possibilities of several day trips: Phang Nga Bay, Koh Yao Noi or Hong Island are just some of the most popular ones. I would say that at least 3 – 4 full days would be needed to fully discover the region if you decide to base yourself here and not on Koh Yao Noi.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in KLONGBON GARDEN HOME for about 750 THB per night. It was located in the south of Chong Lard Pier so you will need a motorbike taxi to get there. It’s more like a budget option but the room was clean and it was really cool to sit and chill on the small terrace. You can easily make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.

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Getting around the island

The easiest would be to rent a motorbike and move around the island at your own pace. If you don’t want to ride it, you should consider tuk-tuks, bicycles or long-tail boats.

There are guys offering motorbikes already at the Chong Lard Pier, but I usually prefer renting from a place with trustworthy reviews, therefore, I just did it at my guesthouse.

Beaches

Lam Haed Beach

One of the most beautiful and scenic beaches in Thailand. It’s pretty long, with many coconut palm trees in the background, but what makes it absolutely amazing is the northern tip that turns into a sandbar that goes far into the sea and is perfectly walkable.

Son Bay Beach

Great beach, almost deserted. It is long but narrow so in high tide, there is not a lot of space. It is surrounded by a big bay, which gives it an additional plus.

Loh PARed Beach

Decent place for swimming with lots of restaurants and small shops nearby. Perfect spot to catch the sunset.

Loh Had Beach

Another white sandy beach that is quiet and suitable for relaxing with local restaurants nearby.

Ao Muong Beach

Located a bit more south of Loh Had Beach. Unfortunately, there is a lot of trash around.

Ao Sai Beach

The pleasant beach down a bumpy track. If you feel unsure about riding a bike, just park and walk the remaining distance. You can see hermit crabs scuttling around and simply enjoy the beautiful views. It’s worth visiting the fishing village too, to have a closer look at how locals spend their days.

Nok Ok Cape

An adventurous journey, the last piece leads partly through dense jungle and a creek. Better just to park your motorbike and walk. Nevertheless, the beach is completely deserted and absolutely worth a visit.

Other attractions around Koh Yao Yai

Viewpoint

It is located very close to Klongbon Garden Home if you decide to stay there. Climb the stairs and enjoy the spot overlooking the north of Koh Yao Yai island as well as Hong Island and other smaller islands around.

Chong Lard Pier

Arrival and departure point from Koh Yao Yai. You may get a longtail boat to the sister island of Koh Yao Noi and other more distant places too.

Day trips from Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi (North Island) is the quieter and smaller sister of Koh Yao Yai (South Island). It can be easily accessed in a few minutes by boat from Chong Lard Pier. It doesn’t make sense to transport your motorbike, just rent one on the other side and explore the most interesting places: Klong Jark Beach, Tha Khao Beach or Mankei Bay. Read more about exploring the island in one of my previous posts here.

Koh Hong, Koh Pakbia, Koh Lao Lading

It’s a popular day trip from Krabi, but a long-tail boat trip can be easily arranged from Koh Yao Yai too and in fact, the islands are even closer. There will be plenty of snorkelling opportunities in the clear waters of Lading Island, Pakbia Island, and Hong Lagoon. The best beach, surrounded by limestone cliffs is on Hong Island, where most likely you will enjoy your lunch. Don’t forget to visit the viewpoint! More about Hong Island and Lading Island can be read in my previous post here.

Phang-Nga Bay

The boat trip here is one of the best that can be done in Thailand. The whole area is characterized by limestone cliffs and rock formations, as well as mangrove forests and many small islands. There are many popular places to stop by and explore further. Koh Tapu is known as James Bond Island for its appearance in a Bond film. Koh Phanak Island attracts tourists with its caves and lagoons and at Ko Hong, you have the chance to do an awesome kayak trip.

Summary

I have definitely enjoyed my stay on Koh Yao Yai and there are enough attractions, not only on the island but in the close surroundings, to justify a few days stay. It’s a much calmer place than Phuket or Koh Phi Phi, but still in the middle of beautiful Phan-Nga Bay.

You may ask, which of the two islands is better to base yourself on, Koh Yao Yai or Koh Yao Noi? In my opinion, Koh Yao Noi is a nicer and more charming place so I would recommend booking your accommodation there and simply doing a full-day trip to Koh Yao Yai.

Koh Yao Noi (North Island) is the quieter and smaller sister of Koh Yao Yai (South Island), located in the middle of the spectacular Phang Nga Bay, between Krabi and Phuket. The majority of about 4.000 inhabitants are Muslim.

It’s an excellent place to be if you love relaxing rather than hardcore parties which you may find in Phuket or Koh Phi Phi. Let me suggest to you how to organize a trip there and what is worth visiting!

How to get to Koh Yao Noi?

The island can be reached only by sea from several places, but the easiest would be to start in Phuket or in Krabi. You could also look for speedboat connections from Koh Lanta or Koh Lipe. I decided to take a speedboat from Krabi and the experience was very smooth.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Yao Noi is the same as for all the other islands in that area, from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, accommodation may be cheaper but it’s better to check the boat schedule well in advance.

How long to stay?

Koh Yao Noi is quite a small island but you should take into consideration the possibilities of several day trips: Phang Nga Bay, Koh Yao Yai or Hong Island are just some of the most popular ones. I would say that at least 3 – 4 full days would be needed to fully discover the region.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in Mookdaman Bungalow for about 800 THB per night. It was located within walking distance of Klong Jark Beach and there were some restaurants nearby too. The room was clean and it was really cool to sit and chill on the small terrace. You can easily make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.

Getting around the island

The easiest would be to rent a motorbike and move around the island at your own pace. If you don’t want to ride it, you should consider tuk-tuks, bicycles or long-tail boats.

There are guys offering motorbikes already at the Manoh Pier, but I usually prefer renting from a place with trustworthy reviews, therefore, I walked for about 15 minutes to Fortune Travel, which I can totally recommend.

Beaches

Klong Jark Beach

One of the best, if not the best beach on the island. It’s quite narrow but with such great views. Little beach bars are very nice too and you can feel so relaxed!

Tha Khao Beach

Great beach at high tide. At low tide you have to walk through wet sand for a while and even when you arrive at the water, it looks sandy and is still shallow. Countless crabs scurry across the ocean floor, so don’t forget your shoes.

Little Long Beach

Not so easy to get to and the road can get quite muddy but most likely you will have the beach for yourself.

Long Beach

A little out of the way but a nice beach to relax at. No vendors at this place so bring your own drink and food.

Mankei Bay

Secluded beach surrounded by high cliffs on the northern tip of the island. The way there is a bit tricky though. Continue past Paradise Hotel / Tree House Villas on a dirt forest road or park your motorbike on the side and walk the rest of the distance (500-700 meters). There are some weird abandoned constructions but just ignore them and head down towards the beach.

An alternative way is to rent a kayak at Tree House Villas and paddle there for about 15 minutes.

An Pao Beach

Suitable for watching the sunset, but the beach is just average.

The Hideout Beach

Another decent place for sunset but that’s pretty much it. Too muddy for chilling or swimming in the sea and quite tricky to reach on a motorbike so be careful.

Other attractions around Koh Yao Noi

Ko Kudu Yai

Beautiful private island where the chances of being alone are very high. You can rent a kayak at Paradise Ko Yao Resort for about 200 THB and then paddle to the island or ask around for a long-tail boat taxi.

Ko Nok

For a taste of a little adventure, I recommend renting a kayak (about 300 THB for 4 hours) and paddling for 30 minutes to reach the island. Once there, you can enjoy the beach and hike to the viewpoint. Alternatively, you can find a boat to take you there at Laem Sai Pier.

Day trips from Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Yai

The bigger sister of Koh Yao Noi. Koh Yao Yai literally means ‘long and large island’, and indeed it is one of the largest in Thailand, with a length of about 30 km. It can be easily accessed in a few minutes by boat from Mahon Pier. It doesn’t make sense to transport your motorbike, just rent one on the other side and explore the most interesting places: Lam Haed Beach, Loh Had Beach, Loh Pared Bay Beach or the viewpoint.

Koh Hong, Koh Pakbia, Koh Lao Lading

It’s a popular day trip from Krabi, but a long-tail boat trip can be easily arranged from Koh Yao Noi too and in fact, the islands are even closer. There will be plenty of snorkelling opportunities in the clear waters of Lading Island, Pakbia Island, and Hong Lagoon. The best beach, surrounded by limestone cliffs is on Hong Island, where most likely you will enjoy your lunch. Don’t forget to visit the viewpoint! More about Hong Island and Lading Island can be read in my previous post here.

Phang-Nga Bay

The boat trip here is one of the best that can be done in Thailand. The whole area is characterized by limestone cliffs and rock formations, as well as mangrove forests and many small islands. There are many popular places to stop by and explore further. Koh Tapu is known as James Bond Island for its appearance in a Bond film. Koh Phanak Island attracts tourists with its caves and lagoons and at Ko Hong you have the chance to do an awesome kayak trip.

Summary

I have definitely enjoyed my stay on Koh Yao Noi and there are enough attractions, not only on the island but in the close surroundings, to justify a few days’ stay. It’s a much calmer place than Phuket or Koh Phi Phi, but still in the middle of beautiful Phan-Nga Bay.

You may ask, which of the two islands is better to base yourself on, Koh Yao Yai or Koh Yao Noi? In my opinion, Koh Yao Noi is a nicer and more charming place so I would recommend booking your accommodation there and simply doing a full-day trip to Koh Yao Yai.

Phi Phi Islands are one of the most famous islands off the Andaman Coast of Thailand. The archipelago consists of two islands: Koh Phi Phi Don and Koh Phi Phi Leh. Only the first one is inhabited and all tourist amenities are there. It’s a vehicle-free island so prepare for a walk with your luggage. Alternatively, some hotel workers can move your luggage in a cart.

Koh Phi Phi Don was seriously damaged in the 2004 tsunami, where hundreds of people on the island lost their lives. Roughly 70% of the island’s infrastructure was destroyed. Before the great tsunami, it was a quiet and elegant resort. After the cataclysm, Thailand urgently needed money, so the tourist infrastructure of the island was quickly rebuilt, but it was done without any reasonable planning. Currently, Phi Phi Don has a reputation as a big, noisy party place. Then, is it still worth visiting? Let’s find out.

How to get to Koh Phi Phi?

The island can be reached only by sea from several places, such as Phuket, Krabi, Koh Lanta or Koh Lipe. You can choose between buying a one-day trip around the archipelago or using ferry/speedboat connections and deciding by yourself how long you want to stay. I decided to take a speedboat from Krabi with Bundhaya and the experience was very smooth. All the boats depart and arrive at Tonsai Pier.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Phi Phi is the same as for all the other islands in that area, from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, accommodation may be cheaper but it’s better to check the boat schedule well in advance.

How long to stay?

Koh Phi Phi Don is a small island but you shouldn’t miss a day trip by long-tail boat around the archipelago, including Bamboo Island, Monkey Beach and Phi Phi Leh with the famous Maya Bay. I would say that 2 full days should be enough for all sights and some relaxing time at the beach.

Day trippers seem to be a bit in a rush, so I was very glad that I took my time and spent two nights on the island.

If you are a party type, consider staying longer as Koh Phi Phi Don is one of the biggest party hot spots in Thailand.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in Dee Dee Sea Front for about 1200 THB per night. It was located a bit further from all the noisy bars and the room was very comfortable. You can easily make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.

Dee Dee Sea Front
Address: 211 Moo 7, Phi Phi Island, Ao Nang, Amphoe Muang, Phi Phi Island, 81210, Thailand
Phone: +66 62 426 2265 GPS coordinates: N 007° 44.651, E 98° 46.462

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Getting around the island

Options are limited to walking, riding a bicycle or renting a long-tail boat. Motorbikes are not available for tourists.

One day trip around the archipelago

I booked a tour with Visa Travel Team Phi Phi, just contacting them on Line. It was called One Day Tour By Longtail Boat With Sunset & Plankton and the cost was 850 THB (not including the 400 THB national park fee). Snorkel, mask, life jacket, water and lunch box were provided.

After meeting the staff in front of McDonald’s in Tonsai Bay, we boarded our long-tail boat and departed towards Shark Point for the first snorkelling stop. It’s just in front of Long Beach. We didn’t see any blacktip reef sharks but there were other colourful fish. The waters were a bit rough so it wasn’t very easy to swim around.

Next, we got our picnic lunch (fried rice) and continued to Bamboo Island for a bit longer stop. It’s a wonderful circular island filled with wild bamboo. The powdery white sand and clear water were really great for chilling. I did a short drone flight, ate lunch and then dipped once more in the sea.

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The way to Monkey Beach was incredibly scenic. We passed by Mosquito Island, which is completely uninhabited and rarely visited by tourists, as well as Nui Beach. I have to admit that I really don’t like and don’t trust macaques but the ones on Monkey Beach were not too interested in the presence of people who were taking photos of them from every angle. Anyway, better watch out for your bag and don’t leave it unattended, especially with food inside. The beach is nice and it is a great place to swim and snorkel, but a bit too busy for my taste.

Soon, it was time to move to another island in the archipelago – Phi Phi Leh. First, we passed by the Viking Cave. It is famous for apparently prehistoric paintings of a Viking boat on its wall. It is home to thousands of swift bird nests, which build nests using their saliva. Locals go here to harvest these nests as the saliva of these birds is an excellent source of protein and it is a thriving industry, especially in Chinese culture. It is sold at a premium price and is listed as one of the most expensive animal product foods to be consumed by man. Tourists are not allowed to go inside.

From the Viking Cave, we continued to one of the most beautiful places I have seen on several islands on the Andaman Sea. The first one was Pi Leh Lagoon, with incredibly beautiful turquoise water enclosed by towering limestone cliffs. It’s the Thailand that you see on postcards.

The second incredible spot is Maya Bay. It was made famous when it appeared in the movie “The Beach”, with Leonardo Di Caprio. Unfortunately, it was also the beginning of its problems. The bay got closed for over three years in 2018 due to the damage caused by hundreds of boats with visitors coming every day. Nowadays, the beach stays off-limits for all vessels and people have to disembark at Loh Samah Bay at the other side of the island and walk through the interior.

Maya Bay is declared as a National Park and every foreigner has to pay the entry fee of 400 THB. The beach is really beautiful with crystal clear sea and white sand. It is allowed to enter the sea but only to your ankles and any kind of swimming is strictly forbidden. In theory, there is a limit of 300 visitors in one hour, but I hardly doubt that it’s monitored.

On the way back, we did one more snorkelling stop, just next to the rocks in front of Maya Bay but of course without entering it. Meanwhile, it got pretty cloudy so visibility underwater was not the best. After that, we continued very slowly to Tonsai Pier, enjoying the nice sunset. For those who want, there is also an option for a night swimming with bioluminescence plankton, of course depending on weather conditions.

Overall, it was one of the best boat tours I have done in Thailand and I was extremely satisfied with it. All the places can be also visited independently with privately hired long-tail boats, and not on an organized group trip. If you opted for that, I would advise visiting Phi Phi Leh first, early in the morning before it gets crowded.

Other attractions on Koh Phi Phi Don

Loh Dalum Beach

Probably the most accessible and popular beach on the island. Nice white sand and calm water with almost no waves but pretty shallow water. Kayak rental and taxi boats to various locations are available. At night, there are bars with parties and fire shows.

Viewpoints

Viewpoint 1 is a bit kitschy but continues for another 10 minutes and you will reach much better spots. Viewpoint 2 is the most popular one but you may continue even a bit higher to viewpoint 3. Bring water and repellent as mosquitos can get crazy around sunset.

Tonsai Village

Small but tightly packed heart of the island. You can find literally everything here: street food, restaurants, tourist offices, souvenirs, bars, tattoo studios, and massage salons. There are even McDonald’s and Burger Kings which is quite unusual on such a small island. Well, just another example that proves that Koh Phi Phi Don is a specific place.

Viking Beach

The beach is small but nice and it is a part of the Viking Resort. The big advantage is the location, away from the hustle and bustle of the Tonsai area.

Long Beach

If you continue further from Viking Beach, you will eventually reach this place. It’s a lovely beach which is great for snorkelling, with lots of fish to be seen around the rocks. On the negative side, there are noisy boats passing by all day en route to Tonsai Pier. But that’s just how it is on Phi Phi Islands.

Summary

Even though Koh Phi Phi is indeed a party place, I really enjoyed my time there and I am not a party enthusiast. I did my research so more or less I knew what to expect. Sure, it is overpriced, crowded and noisy. But you don’t have to stay there for several days and it’s possible to book your room in quieter parts of the island. The day trip around the archipelago was excellent and it was worth coming even only to do that.

After two days I moved to Trang Islands and which was an excellent choice. The archipelago is quiet and has a much more local vibe. Just like Koh Lanta, it’s a good counterweight to Phi Phi Islands.

Koh Sichang is a small picturesque island in the Gulf of Thailand and a good destination for those who want to escape the noise of Bangkok or Pattaya. It’s definitely not a party place and the island stays relatively quiet, even on weekends. If you are more after fun, then probably you should check Koh Samet instead.

How to get to Koh Sichang?

The island can be reached only by sea and you will need to get to Jarin Pear Ferry (next to Wat Koh Loy) in Si Racha in Chonburi Province. The trip takes about 45 minutes and costs 50 THB for one way. The ferry arrives at Tha-Lang Pier on Sichang Island

Si Racha can be easily reached both from Bangkok and Pattaya.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Sichang is the same as for all the other islands in that area, from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, it’s better to check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.

Due to its location not being far from Bangkok and Pattaya, try to avoid coming here on the weekend as it can get more crowded than usual.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time. If you prefer a more relaxed pace, do yourself a favour and stay for at least one night.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. You can easily make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com. I only made a day trip so I can’t recommend any particular place.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to tuk-tuks, bigger pick-up trucks, rental motorbikes or walking. I always opt for my own wheels and that time was no different. I got a classic Honda Click just next to Tha-Lang Pier, with a full tank and in excellent condition. The cost for 24 hours is around 300 THB, including fuel.

Beach

The island isn’t a paradise for beach lovers, but it’s definitely worth stopping by at Hat Tham Phang. There are places to eat and drink and also some deck chairs for chilling. You can also rent a banana boat, a kayak or an inflated tyre. There is a nice viewpoint at Laem Tham Phang, a bit more towards the north.

Other places to visit

King Chulalongkorn’s Summer Palace

This is a former palace and garden which was built by King Chulalongkorn around 1890 as the summer residence for the Royal Family. It’s a great place for a walk and you shouldn’t miss the wooden pier, King Rama V Monument, the temple located on the hill as well as a nice viewpoint a bit further on.

Chonlathassathan Marine Museum

Apparently nice and free aquarium to visit, not far from King Chulalongkorn’s Summer Palace. Unfortunately, it was closed on the day of my visit.

Southern Tip

Small rocky beach with views of Ko Yai Thao and Ko Khang Khao. Not suitable for swimming.

Wat Tham Yai Prig and Tham Chakkaphong Sangha Monastery

A stairway flanked by the mythological Naga serpent leads up to the ornate temple building. A little bit further north is a yellow statue of Buddha with great views of Koh Sichang and the surrounding islands in the Gulf of Thailand.

Chao Pho Khao Yai Shrine

It is believed that the shrine was founded by Chinese traders passing by the island by boat. If you want to get better views across the island climb more than 500 steps to reach a replica of a Buddha footprint and a viewpoint with a small golden pagoda even higher up.

Summary

Do I regret coming to Koh Sichang? Not really, it was a good day but there are so many other nicer destinations in Thailand that I don’t think I will ever be back. It’s a typical one-time visit destination so if you have time, give it a try but otherwise, you may want to try Koh Samet or Koh Larn instead.

Koh Hong is located in the Krabi Province in the South of Thailand. The island is a popular day trip destination, famous for its impressive limestone formations, beautiful beach and good snorkelling. It’s also worth mentioning Hong Lagoon, which can only be reached by passing through a narrow rock opening. The island is a part of the Than Bok Khorani National Park, therefore you will need to pay the entrance fee.

There are two small shops near the beach where you can buy drinks, but most probably you will have them included in your boat trip together with lunch so there is no need to spend extra money.

How to get to Koh Hong?

There are two basically only two options. You can either join one of the organized group tours or charter your own long-tail boat or speedboat. The first one is obviously way cheaper. I contacted Say Yes Krabi Tourist Information through Line and the communication as well as booking process with Ton was very easy. You may also go to their office in person. The tour was organized very well and there was nothing to complain about. Price was about 1000 THB plus 300 THB for the entrance ticket to the national park. Lunch and non-alcoholic drinks were provided. Additionally, we stopped at Lading Island, which is also beautiful!

When to go?

I strongly recommend travelling in the high season, between October and April. In the rainy season, trips may be infrequent or the seas could be a bit rough making the trips uncomfortable.

How long to stay?

The trips usually stop at the beach for about 2 – 3 hours and I would say it is enough to visit the viewpoint and relax. The remaining time will be spent visiting Hong Lagoon and Lading Island.

Where to stay?

There are no accommodation facilities on Hong Island. I recommend staying in Ao Nang, Krabi or Railay Beach. In Ao Nang, there is a very nice place called The Krabi Forest Homestay where I stayed for a few nights.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to… walking! There are absolutely no roads or anything like that, just a beach and the stairs leading up to the viewpoint.

What to do on Koh Hong?

Besides admiring the views from the beach or short climbing to the viewpoint, there are other classic water activities available, such as kayaking or snorkelling or rather short hiking.

360° Viewpoint

It takes around 30 minutes to go to the top with more than 200 rather steep steps. The view up there is a simply stunning 360 degrees panorama. Definitely the highlight of the trip!

Hong Lagoon

The Hong Lagoon is part of every Hong Island Tour. The boats enter inside through a narrow rock opening and then you get some time to enjoy the turquoise waters surrounded by limestone cliffs. The weather wasn’t very good at that time so we stayed on the boat but in general, you can do some snorkelling and swimming here.

Beach

On one side there is the jetty for longtail boats and speedboats and on the other side is an amazingly soft white sandy beach with iconic rocks just in front. Crystal clear waters are perfect for snorkelling and exploring a wide range of colourful fish.

Lading Island

Lading Island is about 2.5 kilometres north of Hong Island and is usually included in the itinerary of day tours. The beach is not too wide but very picturesque. There were some jellyfish in the water so we didn’t snorkel.

Is there any better way for discovering a new region than doing it at your own pace, with your own vehicle, stopping where you want and for as long as you want? Northern Thailand is perfect for that and there is one famous route for that – Mae Hong Son Loop.

Mae Hong Son is the name of the whole province, bordering Myanmar to the west. The nature here is great, even though it’s not a typical landscape of Thailand that may be seen on postcards. There are mountains, forested national parks with waterfalls, lakes and caves as well as many ethnic hill tribe communities living around the rice fields. Driving the whole loop isn’t the most touristy thing to do either. Most people fly in or take a night train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai to hang around there, do a couple of hikes and see elephants but they rather don’t go further than Pai. But that will be a benefit to you, as there is no shortage of amazing sceneries in Mae Hong Son and you may experience them in a peaceful atmosphere.

The basic version of Mae Hong Son Loop is over 600 km long but it can easily be extended for another 200 or even 300 km depending on the detours you are going to take. And there are so many beautiful spots that certainly you shouldn’t just stick to the main route. My guess is that I covered about 950 km in 5 days. It’s quite a lot and if I do it again, I would split this distance over a longer period of time. There are 1864 curves on the main route so take your time and better get some experience in riding a motorbike before you attempt the Mae Hong Son Loop.

Obviously, most travellers start and finish the adventure in Chiang Mai. There are good train connections with Bangkok as well as the international airport and motorbike or car rental companies. Here is the overview of the places that I visited as well as accommodation.

Where to rent a motorbike?

I rented a black Honda Click 125CC in very good condition at Mr Mechanic Shop No. 2. The cost was 250 THB per day plus 50 THB of optional insurance which I decided to take for the peace of mind. It was fine for travelling alone and I never had any situation when the engine was not powerful enough. Probably it would be fine for 2 people too, as long as you travel really lightweight. They don’t ask for your passport as long as you leave 3,000 THB of deposit. Better to lose some money than an official document if things go wrong. A driving licence is not checked but of course, it’s good to have the international version of your licence for a motorbike. If you drive illegally, cops can fine you about 500 THB which isn’t a big deal, but if you have an accident, your medical insurance won’t cover you and healthcare in Thailand isn’t cheap.

Here are the address and contact details for the rental company:
127/3 Mun Mueang Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Phone: +66827628302

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Itinerary and distances

Please remember that the total distance below includes additional attractions that I wanted to see even though they were pretty far from the classic route and longer detours were needed.

Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai via Huay Tung Tao Reservoir, Mok Fa Waterfall and Huai Nam Dang National Park (~ 130-150 km)

Day 2: Pai to Sop Pong via Nam Lod Cave (~ 60-70 km)

Day 3: Sop Pong to Mae Hong Son via Ban Jabo, Ban Rak Thai and Karen Village (~ 170-180 km)

Day 4: May Hong Son to Hang Dong via Mae Surin National Park, Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang (~ 330-340 km)

Day 5: Hang Dong to Chiang Mai via Op Luang National Park and Doi Inthanon National Park (~ 200-210 km)

Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai

Leaving Chiang Mai in the morning hours isn’t the most pleasant experience. The traffic is rough so be extra careful and ride slowly. For me, the whole section of Road 107 until the turn-off to Pai was the most stressful of the whole trip, with heavy traffic and big buses or trucks passing by.

The first stop that I recommend is Huay Tung Tao Reservoir. It’s a man-made lake lined with bamboo huts and restaurants serving local dishes. Very good place for a second breakfast and a short break from the busy road. It’s about 20-30 minutes away from Chiang Mai centre, depending on the traffic.

After that, return to Road 107 and continue north where at the major intersection you will need to turn left towards Pai. You can’t miss it because you can see a complete A330 airbus by the side of a road! From there, it’s about half an hour to the Mok Fa Waterfall.

The entrance costs 100 THB for foreigners plus 20 THB for motorbike parking but I think it’s worth it. There is a short way from the parking to the waterfall, about 500 m through the beautiful forest. You may also take a walking path to explore nature on the other side of the river and have a look at the waterfall from a different angle.

Get back to your motorbike and continue for another 30 km to Pong Dueat Hot Spring The road becomes more winding in that section so it should take you about 50-60 minutes to reach it. Unfortunately, the place seemed to become a bit neglected during the pandemic time and only some of the large thermal pools were open. The entrance fee for foreigners is quite high too, 300 THB per person but luckily it gives you also access to other sites belonging to the same national park. Besides pools, there is a nice loop walking trail where you can see a bubbling hot geyser. I definitely didn’t expect to see a place like that in Thailand!

If you continue towards Pai, soon you will see another entrance to Huai Nam Dang National Park on your right side. It’s worth making use of your ticket here and checking out the viewpoint with a fantastic panorama of Doi Luang Chiang Dao. There is also scenic camping, which might be an option in case you prefer staying in nature, rather than in the city of Pai.

The next stop should be the scenic Tha Pai Memorial Bridge. In WW2 the Japanese used forced labour from the surrounding villages to construct a strong wooden bridge from which to attack British-held Burma. In their defeat, they burned down the bridge and the villagers constructed another wooden bridge which was swept away by floods in 1973 to be replaced by the metal one seen today. A good idea is to park the motorbike and walk across or even go down to the riverside.

Further towards the city centre is the last stop for today – Pai Canyon. It’s a great place for watching the sunset and it’s free of charge. There is a short walk from the parking to the viewpoint but the fact is that you can walk around freely and discover the area by taking pictures from different angles. The ridges sometimes get quite narrow so better be careful and wear something better than flip-flops. An alternative place for sunset would be Big Buddha Pai or Wat Phra That Mae Yen, but you will need to climb 353 steps to the top. It’s hard to say which of these two places is better. I chose Big Buddha Pai and got some nice sunset footage from the drone.

After that, head to your accommodation for well-deserved rest. The classic choice for evening hangouts and street food is Pai Walking Street, which is compared by many to Khao San Road in Bangkok. I don’t fully understand this comparison and the big hype about Pai in general, but certainly, it is a nice place to stay when riding the Mae Hong Son Loop.

Optional: There are more places to dip in, such as Sai Ngam Hot Spring or Tha Pai Hot Spring. Having visited Pong Dueat Hot Spring before on that day, I decided to skip these ones and take a cold shower in my accommodation instead 🙂

Day 2

This itinerary could easily be split into two days and I’m sure you would enjoy it way more without being in a rush. If you are a sunrise person, I recommend starting the day at Yun Lai Viewpoint. It’s 20 THB to enter and there is a cafe on site. Sunsets are not bad either, or you can even experience both while camping there.

On the way back, check out Santichon Village, a little Chinese-style site. It’s definitely set up as a tourist attraction and it doesn’t deserve anything more than a short stop, but it’s on the way to Pam Bok Waterfall. I made an unplanned stop here, just seeing the sign indicating tourist attraction and the fact that the counter was still closed encouraged me to have a look. If you arrive before 8 AM, most likely no one will be there so you can enter for free. Otherwise, the ticket for foreigners is 200 THB and I wouldn’t bother as the waterfall is really small.

Further along, the same road was my initial destination: Kho Kuu So Bamboo Bridge. It’s an 815 metres long bamboo structure that runs through large rice fields, which was unfortunately dried at that time of the year (February). It’s free, but you can make a donation to the boxes provided at the entrance.

After that, it’s time to answer the question: do I feel like going for a hike? If the question is yes, find “Starting point Mae Yen Waterfall” in your Google Maps and ride there. You might be able to cross the stream 2-3 times with your motorbike (depending on the water level) but then there is no other way but to park it and continue on foot. It will take you around 4-5 hours of hike, through the forest with multiple river crossings to get to this beautiful waterfall. Your shoes will definitely get wet so keep it in mind. I think the hike is doable in comfortable sandals (like Keen) but don’t attempt it in flip-flops. Take some snacks and water with you as there won’t be any opportunity to buy anything around the place.

Finally, it’s time to say goodbye to Pai and hit the road towards Nam Lod Cave. You may take a photo break at Doi Kiew Lom Viewpoint which is on the way. Nam Lod Cave is definitely the most interesting cave to visit in Mae Hong Son province and one of the most interesting ones in the whole of Thailand! It is believed that the place was inhabited from 9000BC to 5500BC by the Hoabinhian hunting tribe.

You have to be accompanied by a guide to get inside and the cost of the tour is 500 THB for a group of 3 people. Taking into consideration that the tour takes about 1,5 – 2 hours and includes bamboo rafting, it’s certainly worth it. There are three main rooms: The Big Column Cave, The Dolls Cave and The Coffin Cave. The lighting inside is very weak and the guide has only a kerosene lamp so sometimes I really regretted not taking a good flashlight with me. If you time your visit around sunset, you may see plenty of bats going out of the cave for an evening meal.

Day 3

Day three started with amazing noodle soup and a decent drink on the terrace of Jabo Coffee in Ban Japo. It’s a small mountain village populated by the Lahu hill tribe overlooking an amazing landscape and located only within 5 minutes detour from the main Mae Hong Son Loop. If you arrive for sunrise, you may see the so-called sea of clouds rolling over the mountains.

Return to the main road and soon on your right will be Scenic PangMapha, another viewpoint with beautiful scenery. There are some stalls opposite the road selling fruits and souvenirs.

About 17 km later, after a series of curves, take a turn-off to Wat Pa Tam Wua. This international meditation monastery is located in breathtaking mountain scenery with a cave, river and garden to explore. On the other side of the road is a Chinese Village in Ban Rung Arun. Nothing much for tourists, but if you are interested in the northern Chinese Thai culture, you could just ride around and have a quick look.

The next stop, Tham Pla (Fish Cave), is 23 kilometres away. There is a loop walk which could take you about 30-60 minutes to complete. The cave itself is hmm… not really a cave but a hole in the rock with lots of fish which you can feed. A ticket for foreigners costs 200 THB and if it’s only about the cave, I would say it’s not worth it. However, you can also visit quite a lovely waterfall, Namtok Pha Suea, which is about 12 kilometres further. Going there will be a detour from the main Mae Hong Son loop but it’s on the way to Ban Rak Thai which is another 18 kilometres from there.

Ban Rak Thai is a very atmospheric Chinese-style town right at the Myanmar border. It was founded by former Kuo Min Tang soldiers who were nationalists that migrated from Yunnan Province after the Communists took over power in China. Tea tastings at plantations, noodle restaurants and boat rides on Khuean Nai Mok Reservoir are the most popular attractions here.

On the way back, you may check out Pang Oung. It’s a park where you can enjoy bamboo rafting on the lake and watching swans swimming along. It’s a good place for camping if you prefer nature rather than the city, but otherwise, I would give it a miss.

Once heading towards Mae Hong Son, I recommend making two more stops. The first one should be at Su Tong Pae Bridge. It’s a similar structure to Kho Khuu So Bamboo Bridge in Pai. It stretches for about 500 meters and was built by the villagers of Kung Mai Saak, for the monks to cross over the rice fields from the village to the Buddhist Temple (Wat Phu Sama), at the other end. The temple is nice to check out as well.

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From there, it’s another half-hour ride to Kayan Taryar Village, party on the dirt roads. You can see the so-called ‘long-necked’ women there, wearing heavy brass coils around their necks. The coil depresses the collarbone and rib cage, which makes their necks look unnaturally stretched. There are different assumptions about the meaning of such a custom. It could be meant to make the women look unattractive to men from other tribes or maybe even protect them from tiger attacks. However, the most likely reason is just fashion. I was hesitating if I should go there because these kinds of villages are mainly tourist attractions with several trays with souvenirs and are even called ‘a human zoo’. Although they indeed had stuff for sale, I arrived late and I was the only tourist there so I actually didn’t have any negative feelings about the place. No one pushed me to buy anything, I could walk around freely, taking photos of local people living there and I received a lot of smiles from people living in very poor conditions. Another similar village in that area is called Huay Pu Keng.

The last stop for that day was Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu in the centre of Mae Hong Son. It provided a fantastic view over the city and mountains, both at sunrise and at sunset.

If you get hungry, there is a small night market around Nong Chong Kham Public Park.

Day 4

That day was definitely the day of one of the long rides. Before you set off from Mae Hong Son, you may check some more of beautiful temples in the town, such as Wat Jong Klang, Wat Jong Kham, Wat Hua Wiang or Wat Phra Non. After leaving the city, it’s worth stopping at Pha Bong Viewpoint, which overlooks mountains and valleys. Another good panorama can be seen from Hmong Microwave Village View Point which is located within 15 minutes detour from the main road. It’s a very photogenic place for a quick stop, especially in the early morning hours when the clouds could be still low.

Then, continue for about 34 kilometres to Khun Yuam, where you have to make a decision if it’s worth doing one of the longest detours on the loop, to Namtok Mae Surin National Park. It takes about 1 hour one way. Taking into consideration that the road is very scenic, I don’t regret going there but it was indeed a long ride. There is a viewpoint called Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho, famous for its sunflowers, however, at the beginning of February, the blooming season was over. The ticket to the national park costs 200 THB for foreigners and it’s a short stroll to the viewpoint. It’s not possible to go down to the base of the waterfall, only to see it from afar, but it’s still a wonderful and relaxing place.

After coming back to road 1263, you may take a shortcut and ride directly to Doi Inthanon National Park. However, I really wanted to complete the full Mae Hong Son loop so I drove back to Khun Yuam where I also visited Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall. It is a good place for anyone interested in the history of World War ll. The visit takes about 1 hour but is rather pricey – 200 THB for foreigners.

From here, it’s nearly 100 kilometres ride to Mae Sariang, but you can make a stop at Mae La Luang Viewpoint. Mae Sariang is a quiet town without many attractions but for amazing panoramic views, ride up to Wat Phrathat Chom Mon.

There is also Salawin National Park in that area which can be explored through a 1-hour hike around. Deeper exploration towards Thanlyin River at the Burmese border is possible too but the roads are apparently rough and you would need a decent 4×4 vehicle. I didn’t have enough time for this park so I decided to leave it for the next time.

From Mae Sariang, it’s 102 kilometres to Huen Hug Hod The Resort, where I decided to stay.

Day 5

The last day of the trip has some great nature and waterfalls. If you decided to spend a night at Huen Hug Hod The Resort and would like to visit Op Luang National Park in the morning, you need to actually go back around 15 kilometres on the same road you took yesterday. The park itself is a great little spot to walk around, with a loop trail to the summit taking between 60 – 90 minutes. The entry fee for foreigners is 200 THB.

From there it’s about a 50-minute ride to Chom Thong where you can visit a very nice temple Wat Phrathat Si Chom Thong Worawihan and refuel your motorbike before hitting the road further to Doi Inthanon National Park. It’s home to the tallest mountain in Thailand standing at 2,565 meters above sea level as well as plenty of amazing waterfalls. The entrance for foreigners costs 300 THB.

Reaching the summit of Doi Inthanon is a rather effortless short walk from the parking, without spectacular views due to dense forest. Take some warm clothes with you as the temperature may drop to well below 10C.

For hiking enthusiasts, there are 3 trails worth considering. The first one, Ang Ka Nature Trail is the shortest and can be done without a guide in about 15 – 20 minutes. It’s just at the base of the Doi Inthanon summit. The second one, Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail is about 3 kilometres long and overlooks the two pagodas. At the entrance, you need to hire a local guide. I see completely no point in that as the way is just obvious and you can’t get lost. The third, Pha Dok Sieo Nature Trail, has to be with a guide too (220 THB on top of the national park entry fee). Beautiful easy walk along the stream and waterfalls with stops to take a dip if you want. The walk ends with a walk through the local village to visit shops with handicrafts and to taste local coffee. I only hope that the extra money that tourists are forced to pay really goes to the guides’ pockets.

Mae Ya Waterfall is a bit off the main route but you can’t miss it! I think it’s the best waterfall in the national park and one of the prettiest in Thailand. It’s a short walk from the parking lot.

Other beautiful and powerful waterfalls are called Mae Klang and Wachirathan and both are very close to the parking areas. You may see the rainbow around Wachirathan if you are lucky. Then, you can make a quick stop at Sirithan Waterfall. Not that impressive but still a decent size.

Besides hikes and waterfalls, you certainly can’t miss the twin pagodas: Pra Mahatat Noppamethanedon and Pra Mahatat Nopphonphusiri. They were built to honour the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Queen Sirikit, and are surrounded by spectacular gardens. The panoramic views are great too.

The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon is a huge garden for flower enthusiasts but other than that, there is not much else you can do there.

If you need to buy some souvenirs, you may stop at the Thai Hmong Community Market. There are fruits, vegetables, nuts, and various liquors available but the prices are rather high.

After such a busy day, it’s time to depart to Chiang Mai, the final destination on the Mae Hong Son Loop. It’s about 90 km and should take about 1,5 hours. I must say that the whole trip was simply incredible, but I got really tired and the last kilometres on the busy roads of Chiang Mai really drained all my remaining energy.

Accommodation

Day 1: Pay Yard Guesthouse

Nothing too fancy but a relatively cheap hut (375 THB), clean and with everything you need for a short stopover. It’s close to the city centre and a walking street too.

Address: 3/1 Moo 8 Tumbon Vieng Tai, Amphoe Pai, Mae Hong Sorn, Pai, 58130, Thailand
Phone: +66 99 230 6599 GPS coordinates: N 019° 21.097, E 98° 25.979

Day 2: Jungle Guesthouse

Clean and well-designed huts. The lady showed me the cheaper version and a bit more expensive one. I decided to take the more expensive one for more comfort and it was a good choice. The bed was very comfortable and the owner can prepare some good food for you. The entrance is on a dirt road turnoff from the main road.

Address: 200 1095 สบป่อง อ.ปางมะผ้า, 58150 Mae Hong Son, Thailand
Phone: +66948283865

Day 3: Boondee House

Another clean, comfortable and well-managed guesthouse. The price is very affordable (450 THB). I had air conditioning, a double bed and a private bathroom.

Address: 6 Soi Padung mauitau, Muang, Mae Hong Son, 58000, Thailand
Phone: +66 88 435 9258 GPS coordinates: N 019° 18.124, E 97° 57.851

Day 4: Huen Hug Hod The Resort

The resort is easy to reach from the main road. At night time the road is quiet enough to not disturb the sleep. Nice garden around the bungalows. The rooms are quite large and clean. Breakfast is simple and basic.

Address: 296 Moo.1, T. Hang Dong, A. Hot, Hot, Hot, Thailand, 50240
Phone:  +66850307356

Day 5: 60 Blue House

I must be honest that I had serious doubts when I arrived here for the first time. Let’s say that from the outside, the building doesn’t look too appealing. But I ended up staying here easily for more than a week and the owner helped me with my visa extension. It’s a great place with a soul. There is motorbike parking and some seating area in front of the house, cheap bicycle rental and laundry. The room has air conditioning and very fast internet. The bathroom is shared, but it wasn’t a big deal.

Address: 32-34 Ratchaphakinai Rd, T.Pragin, A.Muang, Phra Sing, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand
Phone: +66 89 700 9971GPS coordinates: N 018° 46.944, E 98° 59.397

Tips

Wear a helmet and protective clothing

I know it can get hot during the day and riding a motorbike wearing a helmet, gloves and long sleeves isn’t comfortable, especially when you see all the locals doing their freestyle, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. You are not as experienced on these roads as they are so don’t try to show off.

Travel lightweight

Riding a motorbike for hundreds of kilometres a day won’t be easy with a heavy backpack. Keep it small and light. Make use of the space under the seat or keep the bag between your legs if it doesn’t bother your while riding.

Take warm clothes

In the mountain regions or at the summit of Doi Inthanon, the temperature can drop well below 10C, especially at the night or in the morning. Needless to say, it feels even colder when riding a motorbike.

Plan enough time

I planned 5 days and even though I saw the places that I wanted, I am the person that likes sightseeing in detail and there were moments when I felt in a rush and a bit tired. If I ever did the loop again, I would plan at least 3 days more, especially in the area of Pai, Mae Sariang or Doi Inthanon.

Take a flashlight

It might be very useful for easier exploration of Nam Lod Cave or any emergencies that may happen at the night.

Avoid riding at night

Mae Hong Son loop has many curves and outside of cities, there is no lighting. Do yourself a favour and plan to be around your accommodation without the need for long rides after sunset.

Save important phone numbers

You don’t want to nervously browse the Internet looking for the correct number in case of emergency.

Koh Bulon Le is definitely one of the most unspoiled and untouched by mass tourism islands in Thailand. There are no big parties, no speedboats going back and forth and electricity is available only for a few hours per day. It’s a big contrast compared to nearby and very popular Koh Lipe.

With a size of about 3 square kilometres, it’s a really small piece of paradise that can be walked around easily in a few minutes without any stress related to traffic as simply there are no cars and only a few motorbikes owned by the locals. Sounds interesting?

How to get to Koh Bulon?

First of all, I travelled to Koh Bulon Le in March 2022 when tourism in Thailand still wasn’t back to its pre-pandemic shape. The minibus took me from Trang to Pakbara Pier where I got on a speedboat to Koh Lipe. After spending a few days there, I took another speedboat directly to Koh Bulon. It was quite a fun experience as there is no proper pier on the island and instead, the speedboat approached the beach as close as possible and then I had to jump over the side into the water and just walk to the shore. Luckily, a staff member helped to carry my luggage!

Unfortunately, getting out of the island wasn’t that easy as there were no speedboats connecting the island back with Pakbara Pier. But, it is Thailand and nothing is impossible! After chatting with a very kind receptionist at my accommodation, she made a few phone calls and found someone who knew someone who was going to Pakbara Pier the next day with a longtail boat to sell fish. For me, such local transport is always better than a speedboat and we even had a short stop at Koh Don!

In normal seasons, speedboats are operating en route from Phuket to Koh Lipe, usually making stops and picking up passengers at Phi Phi Islands, Krabi, Koh Lanta and Trang Islands. Koh Bulon isn’t that popular but it is on the way and most operators can drop you off there.

Alternatively, you can get a bus from Trang to Pakbara Pier and then continue to Koh Bulon Le. Or make your way from Pakbara Pier to Koh Lipe and then stop at Koh Bulon Le on the way back, exactly as I did.

If coming by air, the closest airports are in Hat Yai and Trang. You can check all the transport options and timetables, as well as book your ticket, on 12Go.Asia.

When to go?

I strongly recommend travelling in the high season, between October and April. In the rainy season, getting to Koh Bulon Leh isn’t impossible but much more difficult and definitely more expensive. You will rely on local longtail boats and your negotiation skills. There also might be days when the sea is too bumpy to go.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time. However, if you want to slow down and simply live life without any pressure and worries, consider staying a bit longer.

Where to stay?

The East side of the island has the best beach and good resorts, such as Pansand Resort or Bulone Resort. If you want to save some money, you may look for accommodation in the northern part. I recommend Chaolay Homestay. It was a bit of a walk from the speedboat drop-off point as you basically need to cross the whole island. With a bag and in heat, but that’s ok 🙂 For 600 THB per night, you get a bamboo bungalow with a really good mosquito net, fan and a private bathroom. The host is very friendly and courteous. Electricity is switched on from about 6 PM and it goes off at about 11 PM, so it would be just you and the sound of millions of cicadas. Probably it’s a good idea to have a flashlight, just in case.

I couldn’t find this place on booking.com, nor on agoda.com, so here is the phone number: +66 86 967 0716. In my case, I just found it on Google Maps, by reading recommendations and went there without booking.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to… walking! It takes about 20 minutes to walk from one side of the island to the other, so really don’t bother about any kind of bike. Koh Bulon Leh is covered in thick jungle, but narrow footpaths are clearly visible.

What to do on Koh Bulon?

There is not a lot to do, but that’s exactly the point. Besides spending time on the beach, there are other classic activities available, such as kayaking, snorkelling or rather short hiking. There are a few nice places to eat but don’t expect the nightlife to be much wilder than some beers while chatting with friends.

White Sand Beach

Long sandy beach with shallow water and good snorkelling opportunities not far from the shore. There are some resorts around, but don’t worry – access isn’t for guests only and everyone can enjoy this place.

Ao Panka Noy

Another nice beach with fine restaurants. Not as good for swimming as White Sand Beach but it’s only a short walk so why not check it out?

Ao Panka Yai

The closest beach to Chaolay Homestay. There are some hammocks so you can chill and watch the sunset, but unfortunately, there was quite a lot of rubbish too.

Mango Bay

It’s a hotspot for local fishermen so there are a few fishing boats and lots of nets on the beach. I wouldn’t say it’s a good place for relaxing, but the walking path to this place is nice and you may even walk a bit further on the rocks on the right side of the beach if the tide allows.

Koh Mak is a mid-size island, much smaller than its popular neighbours Koh Chang and Koh Kut, but that gives it additional charm. In fact, it’s only 10km from east to west and 5km from north to south, so you could basically walk around. The landscape isn’t too exciting though and you won’t find here any jungle or mountains. What you will find are mostly coconut groves and rubber plantations. Koh Mak is a quiet place, which probably isn’t the best spot for nightlife enthusiasts. But if you like peace and the feeling of the local community, you will like it.

How to get to Koh Mak?

Getting to the island in the high season is quite easy as there are boat connections with both Koh Chang (Bang Bao Pier) and Koh Kut. If you travel from the mainland, then head to Laem Ngop Pier and take a speedboat to Ao Nid pier on Koh Mak. The cost should be about 450 THB one way.

If you travel by public transport from Bangkok, the best would be to take a direct bus from Ekkamai to Laem Ngop Pier or if not possible, then to Trat and continue by taxi or by pickup truck to the pier.

Trat has also its own small airport with flights from Bangkok operated by Bangkok Airways. However, the total cost of travel, including transfer to the town or pier to the islands is totally not worth it.

Travelling outside of the main season is a completely different story. On most of the websites, you can find the information that boats between islands stop operating between June – September. In practice, when I was there between May 21st – May 22nd, the boats were already cancelled. According to a travel agent, it happened a bit earlier this season (for whatever reason) and I was one week too late. In such a case, the only option was to come back from Koh Chang back to the mainland, take a taxi to a different pier and then a speedboat to Koh Mak. Very complicated and a bit annoying travel, taking into consideration how close these two islands are and what a big detour you have to make to get from one to another.

When to go?

I strongly recommend travelling in the high season, between October and mid-May. Getting around the islands in the Koh Chang archipelago is just so much easier and cheaper, not the mention better weather. There are not many things to do on Koh Mak rather than water activities and spending time on the beach, so when it’s super windy or it rains, the fun is gone.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 2 full days should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in Sea View Resort, which was affordable and quite clean (at least the room), but not as close to the beach as popular resorts. Unfortunately, the area around the bungalows was messy and overgrown. The owner arranged a pickup taxi from the pier for 100 THB and assisted in booking return boat tickets. They rent motorbikes too, but they look like they have never been cleaned before. It’s the okayish place for one night, but I would definitely look for an alternative in case of a longer stay. You can make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to pick-up trucks or rental motorbikes and classic bikes. I always opt for my own wheels and that time was no different. I got a black Honda Click, one of the most popular motorbike models in Thailand, from my accommodation. The cost for 24 hours was 250 THB, including fuel.

A classic bicycle would be fine too as the island is very flat and there is little car traffic, but temperatures over 30C could be exhausting.

If travelling in a bigger group, getting pick-up truck taxis would be the best but sometimes they can be difficult to find and you may need to ask for them in a restaurant or nearby shop, so they can call the driver. 50 THB per person will get you to most places on the island or you can negotiate your own itinerary with the driver.

Beaches

Koh Mak has the shape of a starfish with many picturesque bays and beaches that can be reached within a couple of minutes on a motorbike. If it’s windy on one side, just go to the other. Here is an overview.

Ao Kao

Long sandy beach with shallow water. However, rubbish can be a problem, especially after periods of bad weather. From here you can also take a boat or rent a kayak and paddle to Ko Rayang Nai and Ko Rayang Nok.

Maruey Beach

Pretty narrow but beautiful with coconut tree shades.

Ao Lom

The road here goes through the jungle and it’s not for first-timers on the motorbike. You can see the small island Ko Phi just in front. It’s a good snorkelling spot too but be aware of the currents.

Ao Phra

I recommend parking your motorbike in front of Mira Montra Resort and accessing the beach from there. You can also rent a kayak and paddle to Ko Kham Island for a good couple of hours.

Ao Suan Yai

Nice place to swim in shallow waters and has good sunset views. There are a few restaurants and bars around to chill. Ko Kham Island is just in front and you can easily get there by kayak.

Ao Tao Khai (Turtle Beach)

20 minutes walk through the jungle and you get to a beautiful deserted beach, where most likely you will be alone.

Ao Tan

Just around Cinnamon Resort and wooden pier. This beach is quite lonely and not very good for swimming as the shoreline has more mangroves, but worth checking out nevertheless.

Ao Pai

Next to Ao Nid Pier. Nice to walk on with great views of Koh Kut but not ideal for swimming. There are red sand and stones.

Laem Son

A very cool place which is accessible via a paved road and a dirt track to the far northeastern tip of the island. There is a small place where you can get a cold drink and something to eat.  A kilometre offshore is the island of Koh Kradad, famous for a large herd of deer living there. if you want to go there, ask the locals in a bar.

Nearby islands

Koh Kham

Take a kayak and paddle yourself or use one of the regular longtail boat services from Koh Mak Resort or Prompakdee Resort. You will need to pay the entrance fee of 200 THB upon arrival. The sand on the beach is soft and white and there is some good snorkelling around.

Koh Kradad

Head to Cinnamon Art Resort or Laem Son Beach to rent a kayak or find a longtail boat that will take you there. It’s flat and quite easy to walk around. The beach is nice and long and there is a herd of deers wandering around.

Koh Phi

The kayak can be rented from Cococape Resort. I didn’t see any longtail boats going there but apparently, if you book an island tour by boat then Koh Phi will be among the places you stop off at. There is nothing to do on the island itself, just the snorkelling around is quite worth it but also not mind-blowing.

Koh Rayang Nai and Koh Rayang Nok

These two islands can be easily seen from Ao Kao Beach. Koh Rayang Nai has one small shrine in memory of one of the founders of the island and that’s basically it. On Koh Rayang Nok, there is a small Rayang Nature Resort that can be visited. The admission fee is 200 THB in case you rent a kayak and paddle there by yourself. Otherwise, ask around for the boat at Ao Kao Beach. Generally, it’s an excellent place to rest on the beach and do some snorkelling  

Other interesting places

Wat Koh Mak

The best spot to have a panoramic view of the island. The temple is quiet and has an impressive big Bodhi tree as well as a beautiful statue of Buddha overlooking the sea.

Ride to the south

From Ao Nid Pier just turn left and lose yourself in these country roads. Head towards Banana Sunset Bar, Koh Mak Panorama Resort or Ta-Lay Time Resort. There are some nice viewpoints along the way.