First of all, it has to be said that elephant watching is one of the top tourist attractions in Thailand. In such cases, profit is usually more important than animals’ safety and comfort. In many places all over the country, you may see that activities including elephants are widely promoted, e.g. bathing but unfortunately also riding on their backs.
Would you like to carry a bunch of monkeys on your back because they want to take a nice picture for their monkeygram? I guess the answer is no.
Of course, not all the places are bad and very often they say straight away that if you want to ride an elephant, you must go elsewhere. But how about elephant watching in their natural environment, where they can walk around freely wherever they want, where you can’t touch them or feed them because actually, it isn’t a ZOO?
If you aren’t lucky enough to bump into the elephants on your hike in the jungle, and most certainly you won’t be, then I would recommend visiting Kui Buri National Park. It covers an area of 969 square kilometres, right next to the border with Burma. More than 300 elephants live in the park so you have decent chances to see some, but remember it is not guaranteed. Gaurs, bantengs and deers are also quite common. In theory, you may also spot golden jackals, langurs, white-handed gibbons, Burmese hares, Malayan porcupines, wild boars or even tigers, leopards, Malayan tapirs and dholes (Asiatic wild dogs). Chances? Close to zero.
The road through the national park
How to get to Kui Buri National Park
Kui Buri is about 280 km and a 4-hour drive from Bangkok. Otherwise, it’s over a 1-hour drive from Hua Hin and even less than 1-hour drive from Prachuap Khiri Khan. All these cities are connected by railway. The weekend trip to Kui Buri can be easily connected with another great national park – Sam Rot Yod. The best would be to have your own car or a motorbike, but if not, you can join a tour. Just ask around at the tourist agents.
If you drive yourself, make sure you are heading to the correct place. Google Maps may lead you to the headquarters area of the park which is not where the wildlife watching area is. The actual wildlife watching area is at Huai Luek Ranger Station, about 16 km north of the headquarters.
Opening hours
Kui Buri National Park is closed from 1st September until 31st October due to the rainy season. In other months, the wildlife watching area is open from 2 pm to 6 pm daily, but it’s recommended to arrive no earlier than 3 PM as the wildlife activity increases in the late afternoon and the chances to see anything are higher.
Entrance fees
As of June 2022, the entrance fees for international tourists are 200 THB for adults and 100 THB for children 3-14 years old. Thai citizens pay 40 Baht for adults and 20 THB for children. Cars will be charged with 30 THB.
But it is not the only cost. Driving your own vehicle into the national park is not allowed, so you have to organize the safari-style vehicle which is a converted pickup with seats mounted on the trunk. The safari vehicles don’t have any roofs, providing you with 360 degrees of visibility. In each of the cars, there is a local driver and also a guide, but they don’t speak much English so don’t expect a lot of interactions. Getting a car costs 850 THB per group/vehicle.
The safari
Before you hop on the pickup truck, consider renting binoculars. Most of the animals can be seen from a distance so if you don’t have a good zoom lens for your camera, it might be difficult to see them clearly.
The safari in the restricted part of the national park takes about 2-3 hours, which I think is just enough. After about 15 minutes of driving, we spotted a big herd of gaurs as well as some deers. We didn’t leave the car but the driver gave us plenty of time to take pictures and even moved the car slightly forward to change the angle.
First encounter with gaursMore gaurs just hanging aroundThe gaur, also called Indian bison, is the largest extant bovine, native to South Asia and Southeast Asia The gaur is the tallest species of wild cattleMales are about one-fourth larger and heavier than females.
As the driver was in radio contact with rangers, we continued to the furthest viewing area as apparently some elephants were seen there. We saw just one, at a pretty far distance but it was still an awesome experience to see a free elephant just walking around through the huge plains. There were some gaurs too. Here we were able to get off the truck and walk around trying to spot more elephants, unfortunately without any success.
The first elephant spotted in Kui Buri!More gaurs seen at the distanceOne of the viewpoints – Phong Sa Lad Dai Wildlife Watching Area
The third stop was definitely the best one. A big group of around 12 elephants were hanging out there, including some baby elephants. We weren’t able to get off the truck but the animals were closer than before and could be seen quite well, especially with binoculars or a zoom camera lens. We spent here a lot of time, even though one viewpoint was still left to be seen, but probably the rangers had known that there were no animals. They were right! At the last stop, we were able to get off the truck, but the only photo opportunity was a panorama of the beautiful landscape, which was satisfying as well!
About 10-12 elephants were in that area, including small onesA small conflict for territory between elephants and gaurElephant family looking for foodPhu Yai Sai Wildlife Watching Area – definitely the best place to see elephants on that day
Is visiting Kui Buri National Park worth the money?
In my personal opinion, it is, even though the price is rather high for Thai standards. You may notice negative reviews saying that some tourists were able to see just 1 or 2 elephants at a really far distance. Of course, there is a risk of that. You may even see no elephants at all, but it is a national park and not a zoo. Don’t expect animals to come and pose for your photos because you paid and came to see them. They are wild animals, free to do what they want and that’s the beauty of it.
Koh Samet is located in the Rayong province, about 200 km from Bangkok. It’s definitely off the main tourist track but in my opinion, it gives the island even more charm. Especially on the weekdays, the atmosphere is rather quiet and you will have no problems with finding a piece of beach just for yourself.
Upon arrival, you will have to pay a 200 THB entry fee as the whole island is declared a national park. Road traffic is limited to pick-up trucks taxis and motorbikes only. Therefore, you will certainly feel the specific island vibe here!
Besides relaxing on beaches or enjoying water activities, there is not much more to do on Koh Samet. But if those beaches are extremely picturesque with a truly paradise atmosphere, aren’t they enough?
How to get to Koh Samet?
The island can be reached only by sea and you will need to get to Ban Phe Pier or Nuanthip Pier. The public ferry costs about 120 THB for a return trip and it takes about 30 minutes of travel time. More expensive speedboats are available as well but even though they are faster, I wouldn’t say it’s worth spending extra money unless you are travelling in a bigger group.
If you travel from Bangkok, Nuanthip Pier can be reached from the Ekkamai bus terminal and the trip there takes about 3 hours. You can also start a trip in Pattaya or Rayong as both of these cities are on the way from Bangkok.
The area around the piers is full of shady sellers and scammers so stay focused and don’t let them trick you into an expensive boat ride.
Panorama of the southern part of Koh Samet
When to go?
The best time to visit Koh Samet is the same as for all the other islands in that area, so from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, it’s better to check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.
Due to its location not far from Bangkok, try to avoid coming here on the weekend as it can get crowded.
How long to stay?
It’s a small island so I would say that 2 full days should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time. If you are short on time, it’s doable in 1 day too but in my opinion, Koh Samet deserves an overnight stay.
Teamwork when unloading supplies
Where to stay?
Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in Runa Runa The Best Guesthouse which was affordable and clean, but not as close to the beach as popular resorts. You can easily make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.
Getting around the island
Options are limited to pick-up trucks or rental motorbikes. I always opt for my own wheels and that time was no different. I got an orange Honda Click, one of the most popular motorbike models in Thailand, and it was in excellent condition. When you leave the ferry terminal, just walk straight to the other side of the small square until you see the shop renting scooters. The cost for 24 hours is 300 THB, including fuel.
Beaches
Most of the beaches are located on the east coast of the island with Sai Kaew Beach being the most popular one. You may want to look for a more quiet alternative during the day but anyway it’s a good place to come back and chill while watching a fire show in the evening in one of the bars or restaurants there. Other beaches on the east coast are:
Ao Hin Khok
Ao Phai
Ao Nuan
Ao Chor
Ao Wong Duean
Ao Thian
Ao Wai
Ao Kiew
On the west coast, Prao Beach is an awesome place to spend a few hours and I honestly think that it might even be my favourite spot on Koh Samet. White sandy beach, clear water, palm trees, and the possibility to do some snorkelling or paddling on a kayak or SUP board that can be rented from the nearby hotel. And on top of that – amazing sunsets! What else would you need?
On the north coast, you may visit Noi Na Beach. It’s a good place for sunrise and there are restaurants around but other than that, it’s a rather ordinary beach.
Panorama of east coast beachesSmall beach on the east coast of Koh Samet Panorama of east coast beachesAo Chor BeachPanorama of east coast beachesPrao Beach
Other places to visit
The Mermaid at the Na Dan Pier
Tourists arriving on the island are greeted by an interesting but also a bit weird statue coming straight up from the sea. It is Phi Suea Samut, a mystical mermaid made of bronze. It relates to one of the most famous epic poems of the Thai past, Phra Aphai Mani by Sunthorn Phu.
Mermaid welcoming tourists at the Nan Dan Pier
Cape Laem Toei
A beautiful place at the southern tip of the island, to just stay and look out into the sea. It has two great viewpoints (one of them with a swing) and a rugged rocky coastline. Probably the best place to watch a sunset on Koh Samet.
Rugged coastline at Cape Laem ToeiSmall island off the coast of Koh SametRocky coast around Cape Laem ToeiRocky beach and incoming storm
Wat Koh Samet
The main temple of the island is a bit hidden from the main road and I got there by accident by taking a detour on a random road. Having seen hundreds of other temples in Thailand, that one isn’t really that special but it’s worth a quick stop to check out the large smiling Buddha statue in its centre.
Diving and snorkelling trips
Popular and inexpensive snorkelling trips go around other small islands in the area where you can get to know the richness of the underwater world. Of course, more serious diving trips are also on offer.
If you are wandering around Pattaya Beach, you may wonder what those small islands visible on the horizon are. One of them, called Koh Larn or Coral Island, is a perfect place for beach and water enthusiasts. And just to be honest, who wouldn’t like to escape Pattaya for a day or two?
Don’t get me wrong, it can still get super crowded. Being one of the closest islands to Bangkok makes it a very popular destination, especially on the weekends. But if you are looking for a nice beach and island vibe, don’t hesitate and come to visit.
How to get to Koh Larn?
Frequent public ferries go from Bali Hai Pier in Pattaya and arrive either at Na Baan Pier or Tawaen beach. The first location is around the busy village, full of restaurants and local life and the second one could be better for those willing to stay at the beach for the whole day. But after all, it doesn’t make a big difference. Transportation options can be found in either place and can take you further if you wish.
The cost of the ferry is 30 THB each way per person and the travel takes about 45 minutes. There are also plenty of much more expensive speedboats (200 – 300 THB for the return trip) and the sellers are very aggressive. Just ignore them. From my point of view, using that kind of service doesn’t make too much sense, unless you are really in a hurry or you travel in a bigger group and share the cost.
If you travel from Bangkok, Pattaya can be easily reached from the Ekkamai bus terminal.
Aerial view of Koh Larn
When to go?
The best time to visit Koh Larn is the same as for all the other islands in that area, so from November to May, outside of the rainy season. The weather is stable and showers are rather occasional. In other months, it’s better to check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.
How long to stay?
It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time. However, if you want to really rest from big city life, staying overnight is definitely a better idea than coming back to Pattaya or Bangkok. Certainly, you won’t regret it.
Panorama of Pattaya City seen from Koh Larn
Where to stay?
Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at decent prices. Most of the options are located around Na Baan Pier. I won’t recommend any because I didn’t stay overnight on the island, but you shouldn’t have problems with finding what you are looking for on booking.com or agoda.com.
Getting around the island
Rent a motorbike at one of the places around the pier. It costs between 200 – 300 THB per day, including fuel. For me, it’s always the best way to explore the place at your own pace. I recommend taking a few pictures of the bike, especially if it has scratched places, just to stay on the safe side. Ahh and don’t forget that besides watching the breathtaking scenery of Koh Larn, you should also look at the road 🙂
Baht buses/songthaews can be easily found not far from the main pier. Once you leave the ferry and come to the crossroads, turn left and head towards the temple until you see bus parking. Then, simply ask which bus goes to the beach you want and how much is the ride. You may need to wait a bit until the bus fills up with other passengers but it usually doesn’t take long, especially on the weekends. At the beaches, there are usually a few buses waiting too, and if not, just ask local sellers or at the resort.
Motorbike taxi drivers wait for tourists at the main pier. They have maps and fixed prices for different locations. If you need a tailored fit excursion, this is when negotiations begin.
Aerial view over Tien Beach and Samae Beach
Beaches
Tawaen Beach
The longest (700 metres) and the busiest beach on the island, with plenty of restaurants but also speedboats and jetskis making noise.
Aerial view over Tawaen Beach
Sang Wan Beach
Within walking distance from Tawaen Beach. From the 7-11 store, turn left and keep walking straight to the pier and the across a small bridge. The beach is nice and quiet, especially in the morning. Good place for snorkelling with crystal clear water and colourful fish.
Tonglang Beach
Another beach that is very close to Tawaen Beach. You can easily walk there or drive the motorbike. Water sports are available and some good local restaurants can be found just at the beach.
Samae Beach and Tien Beach
Both are located on the west of the island, very close to each other. Samae Beach is 500 metres long and similar to Tawaen Beach, it can get very very busy. Tien Beach is within walking distance from Samae (around 10 – 15 minutes). It’s a bit quieter as there is no direct road access and a short walk from the main road is required. The further you go towards the end of the beach, the more privacy you will have.
Aerial view of Tien BeachTien Beach
Nual Beach
Located in the south of the island and nicknamed “Monkey Beach”, it’s actually much less crowded in comparison to the beaches mentioned above. If you are adventurous, follow the narrow path on the right side of the Nual Beach and then hop over a few stones to reach Laem Thong Bay and Hat Kruat Beach. Please be aware that this way is passable probably only during low tide. There is an alternative path higher in the hills but it isn’t marked and the best is to use online maps (e.g. MapsMe) for navigation.
Nual BeachLaem Thong Bay and Hat Kruat Beach
Ta Yai Beach
Located at the far northern end of the island. It’s about 100 metres long stretch of white sand which is more difficult to get to, therefore significantly less crowded and commercial. There are also good snorkelling opportunities at both ends of the beach. You will need to get a motorbike taxi or rent your own two wheels to get here.
Other places to visit
Windmills Viewpoint
The highest viewpoint at Koh Larn provides a 360° panorama of the island and the Pattaya area. You will need a motorbike to go here and be careful because the road is narrow and winding.
Big Buddha and Kuan Yin Viewpoint
Definitely a must-see place on Koh Larn. On the way up, you will come across a big Buddha statue with breathtaking views down to Tawaen Beach. You can continue climbing 250 steps up to the small pagoda, but it will be rather for pure satisfaction rather than for views, which are covered by the trees.
Wat Yai Samraan and Wat Mai Samraam
Small temples near the Naban pier, which is convenient for quick sightseeing and taking some rest before boarding the ferry back to the mainland.
For most tourists, the city of Trat is only a transit point for trips to the popular Koh Chang, Koh Mak and Koh Kut islands. But is it worth stopping for a little bit longer?
There aren’t any breathtaking sights or big resorts or party streets full of bars. It’s a normal town. Just that. So if you are looking for a local atmosphere, away from the crowds of tourists that you may encounter on the islands, make at least a few hours stop in Trat and you won’t regret it.
Trat is also a paradise for fruit lovers as it is, next to Chanthaburi, one of the main fruit growing areas of Thailand. Especially between March and August, local markets are full of inexpensive varieties of locally grown fruits.
Historic background
The history of Trat starts in the early 17th century during the reign of King Prasat Thong of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. It was known as Mueang Thung Yai and due to its strategic location, it had an important role in the development of the country’s stability. The town of Trat later become a community of Chinese merchants.
When Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, Trat served as a checkpoint and buffer city and was responsible for providing provisions to King Taksin the Great before he moved his forces from Chanthaburi to Ayutthaya. King Taksin later on succeeded in getting rid of the Burmese invaders and freed the kingdom from foreign rule.
In the Rattanakosin era, during the 1893 Paknam crisis, French troops landed and occupied the western part of Chanthaburi province. In 1904, Siam was forced to surrender Trat to French Indochina to regain Chanthaburi. Three years later, however, finding that Trat with its almost entirely Thai population was hard to rule, the French returned Trat to Thailand on 23 March 1907, in exchange for larger areas along the Mekong river, which included Battambang, Siam Nakhon, and Sisophon, which all had a Khmer majority population.
During the French-Thai War of 1940–1941, the Vichy French navy sailed from Saigon to seize Trat. The unprepared Thai warships were caught by surprise. By the end of the 17 January 1941 Battle of Ko Chang, three Thai ships had been left sinking: the HTMS Chonburi, HTMS Songkhla, and HTMS Thonburi. French casualties were light with no ships lost. The Japanese government negotiated a truce, which ended the conflict without further fighting.
When the Vietnamese pushed the Khmer Rouge out of Cambodia in 1985, Pol Pot fled to Thailand and made his headquarters in a plantation villa near Trat. It was built for him by the Thai Army and nicknamed “Office 87”.
The town can be easily reached by buses or minibuses from Bangkok. It’s more than 300 km and takes about 5 hours of travel time.
If you travel from Cambodia, Trat is about 90 km west of the border and one of the frequent buses that depart from Had Lek can take you there.
By plane
Trat has also its own small airport with flights from Bangkok operated by Bangkok Airways. However, the total cost of travel, including transfer to the town or pier to the islands is totally not worth it.
When to go?
The town itself can be visited at any time of the year but if you want to continue the visit to the islands, the best would be the cool season, which runs from November to the end of February, and the hot season, which runs from March to April. The remaining part of the year is the rainy season, with unpredictable weather and a quiet atmosphere.
How long to stay?
It’s a small town so I would say thatone full day or even half of it should be enough to visit all the interesting places and try local food.
Where to stay?
I spent one night in Mukda Guesthouse and it was perfectly located within walking distance of all sights. The room was very clean and comfy. I can totally recommend it!
Getting around
The best is to just walk. Alternatively, you may want to rent a bicycle or take a motorbike taxi. Grab transportation doesn’t work here, so you have to look around on the street to find a driver.
Places to visit
Wat Buppharam
It is thought to be the oldest temple in the city, built in the Ayutthaya period. Have a look at the praying hall, the chapel and the Vikhara temple. There is also a folk museum with Buddha images and potteries.
Residence Kampot
Located on Lak Muang Road in Talat Yai area in the center of Trat. The place was built during the reign of Chulalongkorn The Great (Rama V) when Trat was taken over by the French. It was a residence of a French bureaucrat authorized by the French government to govern Trat province and became a governor’s residence later. The Residence is a 3-storey semi-wooden house, topped with a hip roof.
Residence Kampot, Trat
Trat Museum
Housed in former City Hall on Santisook Road. It is a large wooden building that was originally built during the French occupation. Over the years it fell into disrepair and was unused before being rebuilt in the early 2000s. The museum covers the history of the Trat area. From prehistoric settlements to its early days as an important stopover for Chinese traders and further to the occupation by the French in the early 1900s and the World War Two Battle of Koh Chang. Most information is in both Thai & English. Entry to the museum is 30 Baht for foreign visitors.
Trat Museum
City Pillar Shrine
When King Taksin came to gather troops here, he ordered to build this city pillar which was believed by the Chinese to protect the city from enemies and to bring peace to the people. . The City Pillar is the centre of the Thai-Chinese relationship. Apart from the city pillar, an ancient Khmer style Shiva Linga, found in Huai Raeng Sub-district, is on display.
Wat Pai Lom
Due to the fact that it is the residence of Than Chaokhun Phra Wimonmethachan Worayannurak, the father of education, Wat Phai Lom seems to be the most important temple in Trat. Visitors can visit the Buddhist Garden which is open to the public as a meditation practice place.
Around Trat
Ban Nam Chiao Community
Ban Nam Chiao Community is an ecotourism community, which represents the coastal fishermen’s way of life. The villagers were originally Thai Buddhists. Later on, the mixture between two ethnicities was created since many of the Chinese merchants cruised in with goods to sell at the Ban Nam Chiao Pier, and finally settled in the area. In the reign of King Rama III, the Khmer Muslims (also known as Khaek Cham or Champa) immigrated from the war in their homeland to settle along the canal in Ban Nam Chiao. More of them kept coming in, so the two religions were allowed to get married, and they became like siblings and lived together in peace. Nowadays, most of the locals earn their living from fishery, rubber and orchard plantations, as well as trade.
Ko Chang Naval Battle Memorial
On 17 January 1941, one of the most important battles in the history of the Royal Thai Navy took place. At that time, the French advantageously invaded the Thai territorial waters in the Ko Chang area with its 7 battleships whilst the Royal Thai Navy only had 3. Yet, they had the spirit to fight bravely even though the battle ended with the sacrifice of 36 marine lives and all 3 battleships which sank into the sea.
Namtok Saphan Hin
Beautiful waterfall, well off the beaten track. Free entry!
Koh Jum is a peaceful island located in Krabi Province, between Koh Lanta and Krabi town. The beaches are long and very often completely empty, accommodation prices are more than affordable and local people are relaxed. It’s not a place for parties though, so if you are after fun, your destination should be elsewhere. For those who enjoy a quiet atmosphere, the island is definitely worth visiting. Have a look at some more details!
How to get to Koh Jum?
Transfer to Koh Jum is possible by ferry, speed boat or longtail boat. In the normal seasons, ferries used to operate between Krabi Town and Koh Lanta, stopping at Ko Jum which is located just between them. During the pandemic and even when writing this post, (15/04/2022) such an option isn’t possible. There might be a speedboat doing that route once or twice a day but it’s better to ask at one of the travel agents and get the most up to date information. Certainly, it’s still possible to charter longtail boats but it will be quite an expensive option.
Another way to get from Krabi to Ko Jum is via Laem Kruat harbour, only 30 minutes from Krabi Airport. This is how I got there and it was really easy. Longtail boats leave for Koh Jum every hour. The price is 100 baht per person, plus some extra baht in case you want to take your motorbike to the island, which I did too. The only disadvantage was that the last return boat was at 3:30 PM, so if you are planning just one day trip, arrive at the pier as early as possible.
When to go?
The best time to visit Koh Jum is the same as for all other Andaman sea islands: from December to April. The weather is stable and rain is rare. If you are planning to go outside of the main season, check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.
How long to stay?
It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the interesting places. However, if you want to soak more into the local community and just relax doing nothing on the beach, consider staying overnight. Certainly, you won’t regret it.
Where to stay?
Resorts are mainly located on the southern part of Koh Jum, along the Golden Pearl Beach / Long Beach. I won’t recommend any because I didn’t stay overnight on the island, but you shouldn’t have problems finding what you are looking for on booking.com.
Getting around the island
There are rather no other options than renting a motorbike or arranging a tuk-tuk service at the pier. A bicycle might be nice as well, as the terrain is mostly flat, but yeah, it’s still hot as hell.
Places to visit
Koh Jum Village
It is the biggest village on the island. There are some shops and restaurants, as well as motorbike rental points and tour agencies offering trips and transfer options. But the best thing to do is just stroll around and observe the local lifestyle.
Golden Pearl Beach and Long Beach
Long white sandy beach, crystal clear water under the blue sky. Does it sound idyllic to you? For more active ones, it’s nice to take a walk to the eastern tip of the island with Ko Pe Lat just in front of it.
Ao Si Beach and Magic Beach
Another good spot for swimming and sunbathing. Locals like to gather here so it’s a nice observation to see how life goes on. And it goes on slowly.
Coconut Beach
A good place to see the sunset, most of the time it’s perfectly empty. Unfortunately, trash is a big problem here.
Sunset Beach and Secret Beach
These two are more remote and more difficult to access as you need to follow dirt road which is also very bumpy. On the plus side, you will most likely be alone there. As of February 2022, the new road leading to a nearby resort was being built, so I guess in the future access will be easier.
Is it worth going to Koh Jum?
If you are looking for a calm and relaxing place, far away from the crowds, with not much more to do than just laying in your hammock, then it’s definitely a good place to be. Otherwise, Koh Lanta or Ao Nang, both with much more activities to do but also more tourists, would fit you better.
Albarracín is a small town with just over a thousand inhabitants on the southern edge of Aragon. Similar to Teruel, which I described in the previous post, it totally stole my heart! Both towns are less than 40 kilometres away and can be easily visited one after another.
The history of the city dates back to ancient times when the Romans established one of their fortified camps here, called Lobetans. In the 1st century, they built an 18-kilometre aqueduct, which is one of the most impressive hydraulic systems in the Iberian Peninsula. In the 9th century, the city was conquered and occupied by Arabs, and then taken over by the Berber Dynasty of Banu Razin which established its independent taifat. In fact, it is believed that the present name of the city comes from the phrase: Al-Bani-Razin, which means Razin’s children.
The territory was taken by the Almoravids in 1104. From 1167 to 1300, Albarracín was an independent lordship known as the Sinyoría d’Albarrazín which was established after the partition of the Taifa of Albarracín under the control of Pedro Ruiz de Azagra. It was eventually conquered by Peter III of Aragon in 1284, and the ruling family, the House of Azagra was deposed. The last person to actually hold the title of Señor de Albarracín was Juan Núñez I de Lara, although his son, Juan Núñez II de Lara continued on as the pretender to the title until 1300 when the city and its lands were officially incorporated into the Kingdom of Aragon [wikipedia.com].
I suggest staying at least 1 night in town, especially if you want to do some hikes in the area (and you definitely should). Ruins of the Roman Aqueduct, Paseo Fluvial or Sendero del Arrastradero with prehistoric rock paintings, are perfect examples.
Where to stay?
I can fully recommend Hotel Messon del Galo, located along the main street with two big paid parking sites close by. A single room with fast internet and a private bathroom cost me about 35 EUR (in October 2021).
Places worth seeing
City Walls (Murallas) – Admire a great panorama of the town and surrounding hills from Torre del Andador, the highest point of the walls. Technically, climbing the structure is forbidden and believe me, the views are great even from a bit lower level. It’s free to visit.
Panorama of the Albarracin and its city walls
City walls and winding road around the hills in autumn scenery
Castle (Castillo) – Built in the 9th century as an Islamic military post, today it can be visited only with guided tours during very limited opening hours which is a bit discouraging. Ask for more details and tickets at the information centre.
Catedral del Salvador – Roman Catholic church with a single nave, built between 1572 – 1600, on the remains of Romanesque temple from the 12th century. It can be only visited with a guided tour organized by Fundación Santa María.
View around the town the city wallsAnd another one for the surrounding hillsAmazing colours! Autumn is here!
Museo de Albarracin – Located in the old hospital of Albarracín from the 18th century. During the civil war, the building was used as a district prison and then transferred into the museum. It presents the history of Albarracín, both Islamic and Christian periods as well as the Modern and Contemporary periods in the form of various dioramas. Unfortunately, everything is in Spanish only.
Museo Diocesiano – Located in the old Episcopal Palace, just next to the cathedral. The museum presents a collection of religious art.
Museo de Juguetes – Visiting the Toys Museum could be a good idea, especially if you travel with kids. It’s a bit off the main tourists’ path, but in Albarracin, everything is within walking distance.
Casa de la Julianeta – The most emblematic building of the town and also the most photographed so if you want your perfect shot, come very early in the morning. It’s made of plaster and wood, which is the typical style of Albarracin.
Casa de la Julianeta and another typical house of Albarracin
Plaza Mayor Albarracín – Main square surrounded by wonderful buildings, including the 14th-century Town Hall.
Casa – Museo Albarracín – Noble house dating from the 17th century that once belonged to Pérez and Toyuela family. The interior is definitely worth visiting but again, only with a guided tour.
Dona Blanca Tower – It was built in the 13th century as part of the defensive system of Albarracin. There are three floors which sometimes host small photography exhibitions but most people visit for the viewpoint on top of it. Unfortunately, it was closed on the day of my visit.
Hiking trips in the area
Roman Aqueduct – One of the most important hydraulic systems in the Iberian Peninsula, built in the 1st century AD by the Romans. It’s almost 25 kilometres long and initially run next to the Guadalaviar river on the route Albarracin – Gea – Cella. There are several entry points along the road but one of the best ones is shortly after Gea de Albarracin, where you can admire magnificent walls with tunnels inside. It’s marked in Google Maps as Acueducto romano en Barranco de los Burros and can be easily accessed by car. So impressive what people were able to construct such a long time ago without modern tools! If you want to learn more about the history of this place, stop by Centro de Interpretacion in Gea de Albarracin.
Views around the Roman Aqueduc
Paseo Fluvial – Circular river walk following Rio Guadalaviar, starting in the Municipal Park. It’s about 2 km long and rated as easy.
Sendero del Arrastradero – The whole area of Pinares de Rodeno is famous for prehistoric rock paintings, such as livestock, horses or human figures. There are many interesting hikes to do but as I was running out of time, I decided to follow 2.5 km long Sendero del Arrastradero. Several sites with drawings protected by metal bars can be seen along the way or within a short detour. Sometimes it’s actually difficult to find anything on the walls. There is also a nice viewpoint to the landscape of Aragon.
Rock painting with human figure……and here some livestockViewpoint along Sendero del Arrastradero Viewpoint along Sendero del Arrastradero
I didn’t know what to expect from the Aragon region of Spain. Zaragoza was okayish but nothing breathtaking and… Teruel? Never heard about that city before but it seemed to be a good place to stop on the way to more touristic Albarracín. How lucky I was! I love this feeling when after arrival to a rather small town for an simple overnight stay without high expectations, I fall in love with it and it becomes one of the highlights of my trip. And that is exactly what happened with the capital of Mudejar architecture – Teruel.
From the historical point of view, besides the fascinating period of Muslim influence and development of Mudejar architecture (which I will explain further on), Teruel has also some dark pages written in the period of the Spanish Civil War when a significant part of the city was destroyed due to heavy artillery and aerial bombardment. The Battle of Teruel lasted from December 1937 until February 1938 and was one of the most tragic of the war, claiming the lives of about 140,000 casualties.
I suggest staying at least 1 night in town, especially if you want to do some hikes (and you definitely should). Cañon Rojo Teruel and Camino Natural del Rio Guadalaviar are only a short drive away and the views are simply amazing.
Canon Rojo, easily accessible from Teruel
Where to stay?
I can fully recommend Hostal Aragon, located just next to Plaza de El Torico. A single room with fast internet, a small desk and a private bathroom cost me about 30 EUR (in October 2021).
Architecture
Mudejar style is unique in Spain and reminded me of the trip to Andalusia one year before, where traces of strong Muslim influence are still clearly visible.
As a result of the Reconquista, so a long series of battles led by Christian states to expel the Muslims from the mid-700s to 1492, towns and villageswere coming back into Christian hands one after another. However, some Muslims were allowed to stay in Iberia and were not initially converted to Christianity or exiled. Instead, their skills were used to create decorative elements that referred to Islamic arts (e.g. calligraphy, intricate geometry, and vegetal forms) and which were later merged with Christian styles of architecture. Walking on the street of Teruel is an experience in itself and you better have your camera ready!
The Legend of the Lovers of Teruel
The story is set in the 13th century when Juan Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura fell in love. Both of them were from different social classes and Isabel’s father refused to give the hand of his daughter to the man without money. However, they managed to agree with the father to give Diego 5 years to collect funds, before arranging the marriage of Isabel with someone more appropriate.
Diego returned to the city 5 years later only to discover that Isabel got married one day before his arrival. He did not realize he was one day late, as had not considered the day the agreement was reached to be part of the five-year limit. Bad luck, right? Well, now the dramatic part starts.
Diego asked Isabel for a kiss but she refused out of loyalty to her new husband. Diego’s heart was totally broken and he died. At his funeral, Isabel’s grief was so strong that she decided to give Diego the kiss he had wanted so badly in life. And as she did so… she died.
The story of two lovers inspired the citizens of Teruel to demand their burial together so that at least then they could be together. This request was granted by the church. The fame of the couple soon spread through Spain. In 1560 two mummies were exhumed and placed in the tombs where they now rest and the carved figures on the lids nearly touch their hands.
Tombs of the Lovers of Teruel
The Legend of Two Towers
Yes, there is another legend, and guess what? Obviously love messed up again! This time it is all about two Muslim architects, Abdalá and Omar, who worked in Teruel at the beginning of the 14th century. The Christians were looking for someone willing to build attached towers for the churches of San Martín and El Salvador, and the mentioned two got the job.
And then…. surprise, surprise. A beautiful Moor woman named Zoraida crossed the path of the masters. Both of them fell in love and she also couldn’t make the decision and choose the one. Then Zoraida’s father came up with a brilliant idea. The one who would raise the most beautiful tower in the shortest time would get the hand of his daughter.
After some time, Omar finished his work first but he was not a winner. The San Martín tower wasn’t straight! Zoraida married Abdalá and they both enjoyed the views from El Salvador Tower, including the rival’s tower close by.
Places worth seeing
Fundacion Amantes – Definitely the most popular tourist attraction in town. Besides the Mausoleum of the Lovers, where you can see the famous alabaster tombs of Juan Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura, you can visit the Church of San Pedro, with its beautiful ornate ceiling in gold stars, as well as cloister, apse and garden.
The combined ticket for all sights costs 9 EUR which, in my opinion, is quite a steep price for what the place has to offer. Audioguide is included.
The Tower of San Pedro, which is the oldest of Mudejar towers in town also belongs to the complex but unfortunately, it wasn’t accessible on the day of my visit.
Tombs of the Lovers of TeruelThe ceiling of the Church of San Pedro
Catedral de Santa Maria de Mediavilla and Museo de Arte Sacro – The cathedral was built in the same place where Santa María de Mediavilla Church once stood. The Moor called Juzaff was responsible for replacing the Romanesque apses with Gothic-Mudejar ones, of which only the main chapel remains. The roof of the central nave is the most representative of the period, because of its structure and decoration. It is 32 metres long and dates from the 14th century. The dome in the central nave was built in the 16th century. The Mudejar tower began to be erected in 1257, which makes it one of the oldest Mudéjar towers in Spain. It is square and has three floors heavily decorated with tiles.
The only thing that I didn’t like is the fact that you can’t visit the cathedral alone, but you are forced to buy a combined ticket including also a museum, which I wasn’t particularly interested in. The ticket costs 6 EUR.
Torre de El Salvador – The tower was most probably completed in the first quarter of the 14th century, imitating San Martin Tower. There is a viewpoint on top of it and simple exhibitions on three floors on the way up, including English translations. The entry costs 2.5 EUR.
Torre de San Martin – Even though it looks similar to Torre de El Salvador and can’t be climbed, it’s still worth having a look and admiring another spectacular example of Mudejar architecture. It was completed in 1316 and included in the city walls in the 16th century.
Museo Provincial – Excellent museum with free entrance and extensive collections of artefacts from prehistoric times through the modern era.
Aljibe Medieval – Ruins of the old well that were used as storage for rainwater. The visit includes an audiovisual presentation about the history of Teruel and costs only 1.3 EUR.
Plaza de El Torico – The beautiful square with gorgeous buildings and plenty of restaurants. One of Teruel’s best-known monuments is located there. It’s a very small statue of a bull on top of a tall column.
La Escalinata – This neo-Mudejar style work was built between 1920 and 1921 to connect the Plaza del Óvalo at the top with the train station at the bottom. In the centre of the stairway, you can admire the town’s coat of arms and the work by Aniceto Marinas that reflects the famous story of the lovers of Teruel that I described at the beginning of the post.
La Escalinata
Aqueduct of Los Arcos – The structure was built between 1537 and 1558, with two levels. The bottom one serves even today as a pedestrian overpass and the upper one was used for transporting the water.
Morning light around Aqueduct of Los Arcos
Viaducto de Fernando Hué – Impressive work of architecture built in 1929, linking the old town of Teruel with the area where the city expanded.
Hiking trips in the area
Cañon Rojo Teruel – If you want to feel like you are on the set of a western movie, this is the place. The arid landscape is truly unique, especially characteristic reddish clay formations and nearly vertical walls towering above your head.
This spectacular landscape is located about 5 kilometres from Teruel so you can either walk, cycle or drive there by car. I chose the last option, following N330 road and at some point turning right into the dirt road. Just follow Google Maps directions.
Once there, I suggest using the All Trails mobile app to navigate around. You can either do a circular trail or simply walk around the place for an hour or two, taking great pictures. The trails are not marked but paths are clearly visible.
One of the most beautiful photo spot Reddish clay formations are present all around the placeThe place is clearly off the beaten touristic trackImpressive vertical wallsPanoramic views over Aragon
Camino Natural del Rio Guadalaviar – Beautiful route along the Guadalaviar river leading from San Blas to the Arquillo Reservoir. It is a little over 3 km one way, with the possibility of taking alternative path back to the parking, which goes much higher following the edge of the canyon, with the nice panoramic views of Teruel area. All paths are very well signposted.
Pathway over Guadalaviar riverBeautiful autumn atmosphere on the trail Arquillo ReservoirPanoramic views from the upper path
Once the ancient fishing village and today one of the busiest tourist destinations on Costa Blanca. Calpe’s location is a big benefit and it might be a great base for exploration of the region. 1 hour to Alicante and 1.5 hours to Valencia, but there are also other charming towns nearby such as Denia, Xabia, Gandia, Altea or more of a party spot Benidorm.
Climbing Ifach Rock
The town is dominated by that towering rock of Ifach and you may wonder how the panorama looks like from the very top. It has 332 metres and the summit can be reached after a demanding but doable hike for about 2.5 hours (there and back). The first part is a good and easy warm-up leading to the tunnel. After that, a more serious path with big and sometimes slippery stones begins. Good footwear is absolutely essential! Before taking a turn to the summit, continue straight for a bit longer and check out Mirador de Carabineros.
Then, return to the crossroad and follow the trail all the way to the top of the rock. From there, on a clear day, even the island of Ibiza could be visible. In fact, in the past Peñon d’Ifach was used as a watchtower to spot advancing pirates and to warn the surrounding community.
Other things to experience
Playa Arenal Bol – The most popular beach in town but it’s very long, so you will always find a spot. There are many restaurants and shops nearby and the city centre is within walking distance.
Playa Arenal Bol
Platja de la Fossa – Another beautiful beach with clear blue water and nice restaurants along the promenade.
Spanish Stairs – Charming little street with stairs painted in Spanish colours.
Calle de PuchaltColorful decorations on the streets
Torreó de la Peça – remains of a defensive bastion where a piece of artillery that defended the town from Moorish attacks was installed. There seems to be a small museum inside but opening hours are limited and comments say that the content is in Spanish only.
Edificio La Muralla Roja – Designed by Ricardo Bofill and completed in 1973, this residential building, with 50 family homes inside, is located on the edge of a cliff in La Manzanera. Its red facade contrasts with the pink and blue interiors. Unfortunately, it’s private property, off-limits to tourists. Keep your distance and respect it. In the end, people live there and they need some peace!
Edificio La Muralla Roja from a drone Edificio La Muralla Roja Edificio La Muralla Roja
Edifici Xanadú – Another interesting spot to architecture lovers designed by Ricardo Bofill and completed in 1968. Similar to Edificio La Muralla Roja, it’s a residential building so going inside is not an option.
Edifici XanadúEdifici Xanadú
Cala La Manzanera – Rocky beach just at the foot of Edificio La Muralla Roja. Excellent views to the Penyal d’Ifac.
Passeig Ecològic de Benissa – Hiking route passing by numerous Benissa coves with informative and explanatory panels. Starts on the north of Calpe, around Cala de la Fustera. About 3.5 km one way.
Salinas de Calpe – An unusual salty lagoon located in the centre of town. It was exploited for hundreds of years as a salt industry but now is no longer used as such, since it stopped working in 1988. It’s an important habitat of numerous animal species, e.g. flamingos.
Panoramic view to the city center and salinas
Mirador Morro de Toix & Antenas de Toix – definitely one of the best views of Calpe. It’s about 3 kilometres round trip.
What a views at Mirador Morro de Toix!
Mascarat Canyon – Amazing and very easy hike to do, going straight into the ravine. Leave your car at Platja Mascarat and follow the signposted track. The first bridge in that area was built to enable easier communication and transport of goods between Altea and Calpe. It’s not used anymore, but a newer construction can be seen just next to it. A little bit further is also a railway bridge and from time to time you can see trams passing just over your head. Soon, the ravine narrows so much that it’s not possible to continue. Go back the same way and finally, check Platja Mascarat if you haven’t done that before.
The series of Mascarat bridgesRailway bridge
Interestingly, the name of this gorge and the bridge comes from the presence of masked bandits in the area who robbed the stagecoaches taking advantage of the difficulties of the passage.
You can also take up the challenge and climb Castell del Mascarat. You will have to scramble using ropes that are put on the trail for safety reasons but apparently it isn’t that tricky as it sounds. I haven’t done that due to lack of time but even though nowadays the castle is just a single wall covered with graffiti, the views are supposedly spectacular.
Many people say that Flores Island is the most beautiful of the Azores. For me, every island was completely different and worth seeing but it’s true that when I am writing this post, I feel a big excitement! Flores means “Flowers”, and when it comes to nature, the island really lives up to its name. Waterfalls, volcanic lakes, cliffs. It’s all present here in the grandest form.
Together with tiny Corvo, Flores forms a Western group of the Azores archipelago. Diogo de Teive and his son João de Teive discovered the island in the late summer of 1452. As a reward, they received the concession of the sugar monopoly on Madeira.
Interestingly, Flores Island is the westernmost point of not only the Azores Archipelago but the whole European continent, even though together with Corvo they are part of the North American tectonic plate and not European plate like the rest of the Azores islands.
I visited Flores on my long-term trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work and lived “on the road”. I stayed in the archipelago for two months, between April – May, which isn’t a high season. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?
How long to stay?
I would say that 3-4 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Of course, it depends on the weather which is very unpredictable in this region. If you are unlucky, the interior of the island, especially the lakes may be covered by clouds for the entire duration of your stay. Check the weather frequently and always have a backup plan. It’s usually less cloudy closer to the coast.
The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situations in the Azores archipelago. I used it every day when I was there and I seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!
Where to stay?
Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered lovely host Valentina on her Airbnb listing. The place is located in Fazenda das Lajes, therefore a car is needed to get around. There is access to a fridge, washing machine, a well-equipped kitchen as well as free parking. The room was simple but nice with a shared bathroom and toilet. Fully recommended!
Getting around the island
As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1, or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course at a higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.
Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.
If you don’t have a driving license, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky. Alternatively, get in touch with one of the taxi drivers and negotiate a daily price. I can recommend Silvio Medina (+351 918 804 210), knowledgeable and English speaking.
Poço Ribeira do Ferreiro
Tips
The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.
Santa Cruz das Flores
Island’s main town is located on the east coast with an airstrip that runs basically just next to the main street. There are a few sights worth seeing, all within walking distance. Plan around 3-4 hours to discover the area.
Start at Flores Museum which has documented the most significant moments in the island’s history from its discovery to the present day. Then, check out Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, which is a beautiful church standing just in front of the museum.
A little bit further on, towards the coast, you will find natural pools (Piscinas naturais de Santa Cruz das Flores). Good place for a swim if the weather is nice. Whale Factory (Fábrica da Baleia do Boqueirão) at the northern end of the town presents a rather depressing story of whale hunting, which luckily nowadays changed into whale watching.
Two viewpoints worth mentioning and within walking distance are Miradouro da Costa Nordeste and Miradouro do Monte das Cruzes.
Other sights
Poço Ribeira do Ferreiro – Without a doubt, it is a must-see on Flores Island. The “wow effect” is guaranteed and I had it every time I saw it, even from the distance. The waters of the various waterfalls come down from the steep cliff surrounded by intense Azorean vegetation. It’s especially breathtaking after heavy rains. The walk from the parking lot is easy and takes around 10 minutes.
Fajã Grande – famous for many imposing waterfalls bringing water from the high plateau to the coastal plain. Cascata do Poço do Bacalhau, located in the northern part of the village, is the most spectacular one. Natural pools formed by rocks in the ocean are perfect for those willing to cool down. Additionally, it’s a good hub for hiking trails that either start or end there.
Rocha dos Bordões – Geological formation formed by large columns of basalt. There is an official viewpoint and other small parking places along the road where you can pull over. Don’t miss the beautiful waterfall Cascata da Ribeira do Fundão.
Reserva Florestal Natural do Morro Alto e Pico da Se – Morro Alto is the highest point of the island of Flores, Azores. The trail can be either walked or taken by car. Other than that, it’s all about crater lakes: Negra and Comprida (best seen from Miradouro Lagoa Negra e Lagoa Comprida) as well as Branca and Seca. Simply nature at its best!
Caldeira do Mosteiro – The name comes from the fact that the village was located inside a volcanic crater. Today, it’s totally abandoned (its last inhabitant left in 1992). Mainly due to the lack of electric power and running water. There are plans to revitalize that area and adopt for rural tourism but so far it is simply a cool photo spot.
Caldeira Rasa e Funda – Another two amazing crater lakes. There are also two viewpoints worth mentioning: Miradouro Caldeira Rasa e Funda, located on the road just between the lakes, and Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda, a bit farther away.
View from Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda Lagoa Funda
Fajã de Lopo Vaz – Let me remind you that fajã is a flat surface near the sea, created from collapsing cliffs or lava flows. In this particular case, it’s hard to have any doubts about the origin. High cliffs are just in front of your eyes when you are approaching this place following the PRC04 hiking trail. Most probably, it was the first place inhabited on this island. There are a few houses but on the day of my visit, I didn’t meet anyone.
Cliffs around Fajã de Lopo Vaz
Ponta Delgada & Farol de Albarnaz – Small community that is located on the northern coast of the island with great views on Corvo. There is nothing much to do in the town itself but it’s worth visiting Ponta do Albernaz, where the lighthouse stands. Miradouro da Baía de Além is closeby and provides great panorama of Maria Vaz Islet. On the way out, pull over next to Pico do Meio Dia, another viewpoint located along the main road ER1-2.
Ponta Delgada seen from Pico do Meio Dia
Lagoa da Lomba – another small lake of volcanic origin, situated a bit more further away from all the others, however, it’s still worth visiting.
Viewpoints (Miradouro)
As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.
I parked my rental car next to Igreja de Nossa Senhora Do Carmo. It was cloudy, but most importantly it didn’t rain and there was an optimistic forecast for the next couple of hours, including the sun! After about 1 – 1.5 km of moderate uphill walk, the ascent to Rocha do Risco started to be way steeper. The effort was rewarded though, as the views from the coastal path were simply great. Don’t forget to look back from time to time as Faja Grande looks magnificent from every perspective. On the other side, the view of small Corvo island will accompany you for the rest of the hike to Ponta Delgada. Depending on the time of the year, there could be some streams to cross and the path can get muddy, so be careful.
Once you reach asphalt road, turn left and continue down the road. It is worth taking a small detour to see both Miradouro da Baía de Além as well as Farol de Albarnaz, which is Europe’s westernmost lighthouse. From there, it’s an easy walk on the asphalt road to the final destination.
The track is linear and coming back to the starting point in Faja Grande might be complicated. If you don’t want to hike back, you can try your luck and hitchhike, which was my idea as well. However, I was waiting over an hour and the road was absolutely dead with no cars coming at all. In the end, I gave up and called a taxi.
I have to say that on the day of the hike, I had really bad rainy weather which definitely influenced my final judgement. In many parts, the track was overgrown, muddy and slippery. In the first phase, there are good views of Rocha dos Bordoes, which is the best-known rock formation on the island.
Cross the village of Mosteiro and continue to one of the most interesting places along the trail – the village of Caldeira do Mosteiro. It was finally abandoned in 1992 due to the lack of electricity and running water. Currently, it seems that there are plans to renovate it and turn it into a place for rural tourism.
The next stops should be Miradouro do Portal and Fajãzinha but soon you will reach a sign indicating the detour to Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro. This is by no means, the most spectacular waterfall in the Azores, so don’t hesitate. Go there, but not only go. Sit down and spend some time. Admire.
The remaining distance is mainly through farmlands with plenty of small stone walls, very typical for the Azores. The grande finale is in Faja Grande, with also pretty grande waterfall – Poço do Bacalhau.
The logistics problems are similar to the ones at PR01. As it’s a linear track, I left the car in Faja Grande and took a taxi to Lajedo. If you have more time, try to hitchhike. Faja Grande is a very popular touristic place so it should be much easier to get a ride than in Ponta Delgada. My driver was Silvio Medina (+351 918 804 210). Nice and English speaking guy but the service itself is rather expensive.
Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro Poço do Bacalhau Rocha dos Bordoes Views over the coast
PR03 FLO – Miradouro das Lagoas – Poço do Bacalhau
The track starts at one of the most popular lookouts on the island, between lakes Funda and Comprida. Continue along the right side of Comprida Lake towards Seca Lake and then turn left into a very muddy land road with views of Branca Lake on your right. Soon, you will reach a wide gravel road. Follow it until the turn to the left. Admire panoramic views of Fajã Grande as well as Fajãzinha and start your descent down the cliff until you reach the first one. Don’t forget to make a short detour to Poço do Bacalhau. Magnificent waterfall!
The official difficulty of the track is hard, mainly due to steep descent at the end, but I would still say it’s rather medium.
Again, it’s a linear track so if you leave your car at Miradouro das Lagoas, then you have the option of getting a taxi or hitchhiking back there.
Park your car at the picnic area and start the descent towards the fajã. The views are good from the very beginning. Once down there, take your time to explore the black sand beach and walk around small houses. Turn right behind the first of them and then continue on a stone path towards the stony beach with huge cliffs and a waterfall just in front. If you are lucky, you will have all Fajã de Lopo Vaz to yourself and then it’s truly magical. In the end, return to the car the same way you came.
Challenging but extremely rewarding track for anyone interested in long-distance hikes. It goes from Santa Cruz das Flores to Ponta Delgada (21 km) and then from Ponta Delgada to Lajedo (26 km, along PR01 and PR02). The distance could be split into at least 2 or even 3 days with overnight stays in Ponta Delgada and Fajã Grande.
Santa Maria is the island of the firsts. It was the first island to be formed in the archipelago, the first to be discovered by the Portuguese explorers and Vila do Porto, the capital town, was also the first to be founded (in the 1430s).
Together with Sao Miguel, it forms the Eastern Group of the Azores archipelago. Dryer and warmer weatherthan on the neighbouring islands and the possibility to make use of it on the white sand beaches are the main advantages that attract tourists.
I visited Santa Maria on my long term trip in pandemic times, when I took the advantage of remote work and had been living “on the road”. I stayed in the archipelago for two months, between April and May, which isn’t a high season. Graciosa is the only island I haven’t visited yet, but isn’t it a good reason to be back one day?
How long to stay?
I would say that 2-3 full days should be enough to visit all the interesting places on the island and do a couple of hikes. Of course, it depends on the weather which is very unpredictable in this region. Even though Santa Maria is located only a 20-30 minutes flight from Sao Miguel, I was really surprised by how different the landscape is, especially in its western part. You will immediately notice that the grass is much more yellowish in comparison to luscious and intense green on the other islands in the archipelago. In fact, Santa Maria receives less than half the precipitation of the islands in the Western Group: Flores and Corvo.
Nevertheless, you should still check the weather frequently and always have a backup plan. The mobile app SpotAzores is a great tool for monitoring weather situations in the Azores archipelago. I used it every day when I was there and seriously can’t imagine travelling without it!
Where to stay?
Due to my remote work, I always look for a private room with a fast internet connection. The best quality to price ratio offered Azores Youth Hostel located in the centre of Vila do Porto. The room was simple but nice and had a private bathroom, however, there was no internet signal inside it. I don’t know if I was unlucky, or all the rooms are like that. WiFi seemed to be only available in the common area. It is a really big space with tables and comfortable sofas, but with other guests hanging around, could be not optimal enough for the ones who need silence to work remotely. Free parking is available on the streets nearby.
Getting around the island
As on all the other Azores islands, renting a car is essential to reach all places. I used the services of Autatlantis several times and I can fully recommend that company. The price was always around 16-20 EUR per day (without any extra insurance) and the cars I had were Toyota Yaris, Citroen C1 or Smart. Bigger ones are available too, of course for the higher price. Pick up and return were smooth and quite fast.
Another popular rental company in the Azores region is Ilha Verde, however, customers’ opinions are mixed and I have never used them.
If you don’t have a driving licence, you can try hitchhiking but you need to be patient and quite lucky as in some areas traffic is really minimal.
Tips
The weather is unpredictable and you have to be prepared for anything. Always have with you a waterproof jacket and umbrella. Install mobile app SpotAzores and don’t go to places that are totally covered in clouds. You will lose time and won’t see anything anyway.
Book your car in advance in the high season. I was travelling in the Azores between April – May so it wasn’t a problem to get a car from one day to another, however, I can imagine that in high season it could be a problem, especially on the smaller islands.
Drive carefully, especially in the fog. It’s pretty normal that cows, sheep or goats stand very close to the road or simply walk on it.
If you go hiking, download GPS files and maps from the official website Visit Azores and have them on your phone just in case. In general, trails are well marked but in a dense fog, it’s not that difficult to get lost.
Don’t be afraid of hitchhiking. Many trails are linear, which means that you need to get back to the starting point. You can walk the same way or try to save your legs. On some islands, the traffic is minimal but once the car comes, it is almost certain that the driver will stop and help you out.
Vila do Porto
The name simply means ‘town of the port’ and even though there isn’t much to do, it’s a good place to base yourself, mainly because of easy access to restaurants, bars and shops. There is basically one main street, perfect for an evening walk starting from the port and Fort de São Brás, all the way to Church of Santo Antão.
Vila do PortoVila do Porto
Other sights
Ribeira de Maloás – a short walk leads to the unique formation that occurred due to the contact of the sea with a basaltic lava flow of the Pico Alto Volcanic Complex. it resembles a similar place in Iceland, which is very popular among tourists and can be seen on many photographs online.
Ribeira de Maloás
Barreiro da Faneca – A semi-desert with a red landscape and even eucalyptus trees around. If Ribeira de Maloás looks like Iceland, then Barreiro da Faneca definitely awakes the memories from Australia. Breathtaking place!
Poço da Pedreira – the shape isn’t really natural as back then it was a quarry where a red stone was extracted and later on used in various constructions around the island. Currently, it’s a nice place for a picnic next to the pond or could be a starting point for the PRC03 hiking trail (loop).
Poço da Pedreira
Aveiro Cascade – the most beautiful waterfall on the island, surrounded by stunning vineyard terraces. It is 110 meters high.
Gonçalo Velho Lighthouse – good viewpoint to Maia and the cliffs.
Gonçalo Velho Lighthouse
Praia Formosa – white sand beach in the Azores? Yes, and it’s quite big!
Anjos – Christopher Columbus disembarked in the village on his way back from the discovery of America what is commemorated by the statue. You, on the other hand, can start or finish PR01 SMA – Costa Norte hiking trail here.
Museu de Santa Maria in Santo Espirito – a great place to learn about the history of the island! It’s set in rural house from the 20th century. A knowledgeable guide explaining the exhibition is an additional benefit.
Viewpoints (Miradouro)
As on every island in the Azores archipelago, there are plenty of viewpoints and usually, they are easily accessible by car. Just look for the sign ‘Miradouro’ which in the Portuguese language means viewpoint. Here is the list of the most popular ones but of course nice views are nearly everywhere and it’s easy to find a stunning ‘no-name’ spot.
The route starts in Bananeiras and soon turns right to descent all the way to Baia do Raposo. A magnificent place with a stream flowing into the ocean and waterfalls in the distance. It’s a kind of a detour to get there, so after a while, you have to climb back to the point where you left the main trail and then continue west until you reach Barreiro da Faneca. It’s a place of the last volcanic activity on the island and the combination of red clay and eucalyptus trees brought up my memories of Australia. From here, it’s really worth taking a detour to Ponta do Pinheiro, about 10-15 minutes each way. After rejoining the main trail, continue straight until another short detour option, this time to Monte Gordo. It’s about 10 minutes ascent, well worth it as well. From there the trail continues towards Ponta dos Frades and then finally ends in Anjos village, right next to the statue of Christopher Columbus.
Baia do Raposo Barreiro da Faneca Barreiro da Faneca Barreiro da Faneca Barreiro da Faneca Barreiro da Faneca
The trail begins just next to the parking at Pico Alto. There, you may notice the memorial dedicated to Independent Air Flight 1851 that crashed into the mountain in 1989. Follow the steps going up to the highest point of the island. The view from there isn’t so impressive though, especially with all the antennas around. Return down and go into the forest where the trail stays for most of the remaining distance, but there are also good lookouts to the coast and caldeira.
Officially, the trails start near the church of Santa Barbara, but you may also begin at Poco da Pedreira, as did I. Cross through the centre of Santa Barbara, head towards Lagos, then in the direction of Norte and finally you will see the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Lurdes. You definitely should take a detour to a viewpoint over the bay of São Lourenço, which is the highlight of that trail. Return to the main path and continue along the bay until you are back to the starting point.
Poco da Pedreira Viewpoint over the bay of São Lourenço
Very pleasant and picturesque trail. It’s a linear one, so I would recommend leaving the car at Maia and hitchhiking to Santo Espirito. Traffic is minimal, but be patient and sooner or later someone will go that way. Start near the church and if you have some extra time, drop by to the Ethnographic Museum of Santa Maria. A very informative place with an awesome guide presenting the history of the island. Next, follow the road passing by the ruin of old windmills and pastures. Continue towards the coast following the stream. Aveiro waterfall is just on the edge of the cliff, but it’s simply too close to be visible well. Follow the trail and after a while look back to admire that 80 meters high miracle of nature. Soon, the descent through vineyards starts to be quite steep so be careful. In Maia, it’s worth taking a detour to the base of Aveiro waterfall, just to see it again from a different (and according to me the best) angle. Lastly, turn back and continue along the asphalt road to the place where you parked your car.
Aveiro waterfall Aveiro waterfallThe landscape around Aveiro waterfall
At the moment of writing this text, the trail was officially closed. I did walk it, having in mind that I would simply go back if there was something dangerous. In the end, I arrived at its end as it was perfectly fine all the way. The trail starts in Vila do Porto, next to the Fortress of Sao Brass, then it crosses the stream and continues through dried land to Padreira do Campo. It’s a geological site where marine fossils were found. Shortly after, your will pass by Figueiral Cave, which was created artificially to extract clay for the construction of local houses. Now, ahead of you, there is a steep descent towards Praiha, which is a good place for a break and swimming. The trail passes by the Fortress of Sao Jao Baptisa to finally end at Praia Formosa. Long and wide white sand beach in the Azores? Highly unique but yes, it really exists here so make use of it! Hitchhiking back to Vila do Porto should be relatively easy from here. If it’s not, walk up to the road EN1-2A which is much busier.
Praiha – perfect place for a breakDoesn’t it look like feet? Beach around Prainha Beach around Prainha
This is a great and varied hike connecting Praia Formosa with Baía of São Lourenço. As it’s a linear way and I didn’t feel like doubling the distance, I left the car in Santa Barbara and hitchhiked from there to the turnoff to Praia Formosa. People in Santa Maria are really nice and usually, the first car stops and they try to help you out.
From Praia Formosa, the 6 kilometres ascent towards Pico Alto begins, which can be quite tough in places. After checking out the panorama from there, descent through the farmlands to Santa Barbara. Go through the town and then descent even more on a very steep path leading all the way to Baía of São Lourenço. The views here with all that vineyards in terraces looking like a chessboard are truly amazing. The trail ends next to the beach. After some chilling and drone flight, I hiked back to Santa Barbara (which unfortunately was quite a tiring way up) to pick up my car.
Baía of São Lourenço Aerial view of the vineyards around Baía of São Lourenço
The mother of all the hiking trails on Santa Maria. The distance of 78 km is suggested to be covered in four stages, but honestly, I believe it could be done in three if you don’t mind walking more than 20 km a day. It starts in Vila do Porto and then goes basically around the whole island: Vila do Porto – Cordal – Norte – Bananeiras – Vila do Porto. Certainly, a great adventure which is on my list if I ever come back to this region of the world 🙂
