Imilchil is a small village located in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, specifically in the High Atlas range. It is best known for its remote beauty, the annual Imilchil Marriage Festival and two beautiful lakes nearby: Tislit and Isli. The town sits at a high altitude, around 2,200 meters (7,200 feet) above sea level, making it a cold, rugged, and mountainous region. Winters can be harsh with snow, while summers are more temperate.

The village is most famous for its marriage festival, an annual event held in September. Historically, it was a time when young men and women from Berber tribes in the region could meet and choose partners, with their families’ approval. Today, visitors can witness traditional Berber customs, music and dancing. It’s a great opportunity to immerse yourself in local culture!

The festival has its roots in the story of two star-crossed lovers from opposing tribes, Isli and Tislit, who were forbidden from marrying. Their grief was so deep that they cried themselves to death, forming the two lakes near the village. As a result, the festival was established to celebrate love and marriage.

How to get there?

From Major Cities

Marrakech to Imilchil (around 300 km / 7-8 hours):

The most common route is by car or bus. You would first drive towards Beni Mellal (about 3-4 hours from Marrakech) and then continue towards Ait M’hamed and Tilmi before arriving in Imilchil. This route will take you through beautiful valleys and mountain roads.

Alternatively, you can take a bus or shared taxi from Marrakech to Azilal, and from there, you may need to arrange private transport to Imilchil.

Fes to Imilchil (around 270 km / 6-7 hours):

You can travel via Midelt, a town located on the national road between Fes and Imilchil. From Midelt, you drive through the High Atlas Mountains via Ait Hani to reach Imilchil. The road is scenic but winding and steep, so be prepared for a rugged but rewarding journey.

 Shared taxis and buses can take you as far as Midelt or Rich, but a private taxi or car hire is needed for the final leg.

Ouarzazate to Imilchil (around 240 km / 6-7 hours):

From Ouarzazate, you would drive towards the town of Skoura and continue via Boumalne Dades and Tamtatoucht before reaching Imilchil. This route involves crossing mountain passes and offers beautiful views of gorges and valleys.

Some buses may travel this route to nearby towns, but again, private transportation is often required to complete the trip.

Transportation Options

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible and comfortable option. It allows you to stop along the way to enjoy the scenery and small Berber villages. The roads are generally good but can be narrow and winding, especially as you climb into the mountains.

By Bus

CTM and other bus companies offer services to nearby towns such as Beni Mellal, Midelt, or Rich. From these points, you will likely need to hire a private taxi or take a shared taxi (called “grand taxis”) to reach Imilchil. Bus travel is the cheapest option, but it can be slower and less flexible than driving yourself.

By Shared Taxi (Grand Taxi)

 Shared taxis are common in Morocco and can be a more affordable alternative to renting a private car. They usually operate between major towns like Azilal, Beni Mellal, Midelt, and smaller villages. These taxis can be crowded and may not always offer the most comfortable ride, but they are a good way to travel if you don’t want to drive.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Imilchil and the surrounding lakes Tislit and Isli is typically from late spring to early autumn, especially from May to September.

May to September offers the most comfortable weather, as temperatures are mild, and the risk of snow in the High Atlas Mountains is lower.

Summer (June to August) can be ideal because of warmer temperatures in the region, though it remains cooler compared to lower elevations in Morocco due to the altitude.

Autumn (September to October) is also pleasant, especially during the famous Imilchil Marriage Festival in late September.

Winters (November to March) are very cold in Imilchil, with heavy snowfall and harsh conditions, making travel and outdoor activities more difficult.

How long to stay there?

Half a day is enough to comfortably explore the area of the lakes. There is nothing much to do in the town itself other than having a cup of tea and observing local life going on.

Visiting Lakes Tislit and Isli

Lake Tislit and Lake Isli are situated near the village of Imilchil, at an altitude of over 2,000 meters. The lakes are relatively close to each other (8 kilometres) but are in separate basins, surrounded by rugged mountain terrain. Their high-altitude setting makes the area cold in winter, with snow often covering the surrounding peaks.

Lake Tislit (often referred to as the “Bride’s Lake”) is smaller and more rounded, while Lake Isli (the “Groom’s Lake”) is larger and more elongated. The lakes are fed by rain and snowmelt from the surrounding mountains, and the area around them is relatively dry, with limited vegetation apart from seasonal grasses and small shrubs.

In the beginning, I had no idea that there were actually two lakes. When I reached Lake Tislit, I immediately saw some other dirt road and quickly checked on the map where it was going. Then, I discovered Lake Isli. I wasn’t very sure about road conditions and I was hesitating if driving in Renault Clio was a good idea but I’m happy I took that risk. In dry conditions, the road is quite easy and doable in 2WD. If you are adventurous and looking for a calm place in nature, these are the spots for you!

Imsfrane Cathedral has nothing to do with a religious building but it is a striking natural rock formation that rises to 1872 meters above sea level. The term “Cathedral” in this context is used metaphorically to describe the towering and majestic appearance of this rock, which resembles the shape of a cathedral with its steep, vertical cliffs. The rock formation is a popular destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts due to its dramatic geological features.

How to get there?

By Car

From Marrakech, take R210 heading northeast toward Demnate and then continue to Ouaouizeght on R304. It’s going to be about 4 hours drive (216 km). From Ouaouizeght, it’s another 57 km, which takes about 1.5 hours due to the bad condition of the road (doable in a normal car like a Renault Clio).

From Zaouiat Ahansal, take R302 for 43 km. It’s a dirt road so you should count about 1,5 hours to cover that distance.

By Bus/Taxi

You can take a bus from Marrakech to Demnate. Bus companies like CTM operate this route, and the journey takes 2.5 to 3 hours. For further connections, you must ask locals or negotiate the ride with taxi drivers. Be prepared for a long and tiring day.     

The best time to visit

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions. Winter can bring snow and ice to the higher mountain roads, making them difficult to navigate. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

How long to stay there?

Half a day is enough to get to the top of Imsfrane Cathedral or even do a longer loop. If you want to explore a bit more or at a slower pace, plan one full day.

Where to stay?

If you decide to spend a night in the area, there are some basic options such as Auberge à la Cathedrale Imsfrane or Gîte D’étape La Cathédrale.

The hike to Imsfrane Cathedral

I left early from Zaouiat Ahansal and had a first good look at the rock from the viewpoint “Vue panoramique sur la cathédrale” just on the roadside. You may find it on Google Maps. It looked truly impressive and I was looking forward to standing on top!

I parked the car just next to Gite La Cathedrale, packed water and hit the trail. I recommend using Mapy.CZ as the trailhead isn’t clearly marked. The plan for that day was to do a loop, including the summit of Imsfrane Cathedral, and returning through Ahansal Gorge. The total distance of 15.2 kilometers.

The mornings in this region can be cold but as soon as I started the ascent, I had to remove some of my layers. It was already getting quite hot, therefore I took off my thermal underwear and continued going up. The trail was obvious and there were also some other people around, so I felt perfectly safe.

The views were nice and soon I passed a group of goats. It’s crazy how they climb these steep rocks. At some point, there was a short small section which was a bit steeper and I thought it was the beginning of a more difficult climb but it wasn’t. The path flattened again and it was steadily climbing on the side of the rock.

Finally, I reached the summit and there was only me and a local vendor. The views were breathtaking! I also felt that I wanted to appreciate the fact that the guy came up all the way to sell hot tea, drinks and snacks so I bought a juice and a pack of walnuts.

On the way down, I took a different path, on the other side of the mountain. I was descending quickly and this path seemed to be less popular as I met only two other people going in the opposite direction. Once I reached the crossroads, I decided to turn right and head towards the Ahansal Gorge. Unfortunately, it was not exactly what I expected as instead of going down to the canyon, the trail took me to a viewpoint. Well, the view wasn’t bad at all.

I returned the same way and took another trail heading down to the canyon. Unfortunately, there was another obstacle – a fast fast-flowing stream to cross! I didn’t want to get my shoes wet, nor did I want to cross it barefoot. I somehow managed to move forward on the edge of the rocks but when I thought the worst was behind me, then again I reached the point where crossing the stream was the only solution. I just did it without taking off my shoes. Better safe than sorry!

Soon I joined the main road that I was driving on in the morning. The last meters to the car were quite boring and felt really long. There was absolutely no traffic so I couldn’t catch a ride. I passed by a popular photo spot that I have seen many times on Instagram, with a ruined car.

Finally, I reached my car, bought some chips and tonic in the nearby shop and started driving towards Ouaouizeght. The hike to Imsfrane Cathedral was beautiful and it was a time well spent in nature!

The Ait Bouguemez Valley, often referred to as the “Happy Valley,” is located in the Central High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. It is situated at an elevation of around 1,800 to 2,000 meters above sea level, providing cooler temperatures compared to the surrounding lowlands.

The valley is home to the Ait Bouguemez Berbers, an indigenous group with a rich cultural heritage. The local language is Tamazight, a Berber language. Traditional ways of life are well-preserved here, with agriculture being a primary occupation. The valley is known for its walnuts, apples, and barley crops.

Visitors often hike to nearby peaks such as M’Goun (4,071 meters), the second-highest mountain in Morocco. Moreover, the valley offers opportunities for cultural immersion, including homestays and interactions with local communities. Other notable attractions include the dinosaur footprints near the village of Ibaqalliwn, and the ancient granaries, or “igherm,” used by the Berbers for storage.

How to get there?

To get to Ait Bouguemez Valley, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:

By Car

The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape of the High Atlas Mountains is extremely scenic. The distance to Ait Bouguemez Valley is about 180 kilometres (4 – 5 hours).

If you drive from Ouarzazate, it is 222 km (5,5 – 7 hours). The landscape around the road R307 is very beautiful! Fuel stations and amenities become sparse as you get closer to the valley. Ensure your vehicle is well-fueled, and carry enough water and snacks.

By Bus

First, take a bus from Marrakesh to Azilal. The bus ride takes about 4 to 5 hours. Several companies operate this route, and you can find buses departing from the main bus stations in Marrakesh.

In Azilal, you can find a grand taxi or a local minibus to the Ait Bouguemez Valley. This part of the journey takes about 2 to 3 hours. Taxis and minibuses are available near the bus station in Azilal.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Ait Bouguemez Valley is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. This makes exploring villages, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable. Autumn is also a harvest time for apples and walnuts, offering a chance to experience local agriculture practices.

Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are cold with occasional snowfall. Daytime temperature ranges from 0 C to 15 C. The valley can be very picturesque under a blanket of snow, but some trails and roads may be inaccessible or challenging due to snow and ice.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

How long to stay there?

One day is enough if you just plan to drive through the valley with a few photo stops. However, I highly recommend staying overnight in one of the local homestays and planning at least a few hours hike in the area.

Where to stay?

I spent the night in La Montagne Au Pluriel in Agouti village. The room was cosy and the shared bathroom facilities were clean with ample hot water. The owner was very helpful and offered advice on where to explore the surrounding area. He can also organize a guide for longer treks, e.g. to Mount Goun. I ate breakfast and dinner there and the food was delicious and traditional.

What to do in Ait Bouguemez Valley?

Trekking

Ait Bouguemez to Timit

I did a half-day trek, starting at my accommodation in Agouti. The morning was so cold that I even wore my thermal underwear but as soon as the sun rose from behind the mountains, it got really hot!

I turned right, crossed over the river and then turned left, following a dirt road surrounded by apple orchards. It’s about 7,5 km (1.5 – 2 hours) to reach a viewpoint in Timit where the ancient granary is located. The views around it are splendid and for a few dirhams, you can go inside and on its roof.

I returned to La Montagne Au Pluriel following an asphalt road. The total distance of the hike was 13 kilometers and it took me about 4-5 hours.

Ait Bouguemez to Ikiss

Another hike option would be heading south towards Ait Said and further through Arrouss to Ikiss. From Arrouss, the path winds its way south through a beautiful gorge, with some nice wildflowers usually lining the route. Once the path leaves the gorge you find yourself at one end of some wide open fields. Monitor the time and your position on Mapy.CZ and turn back to return to Ait Bouguemez the same way. The distance to the Berber village of Ikiss is about 9 kilometres one way.

This section of the hike corresponds to the first day of the ascent to Mount Goun.

Mount Goun

The biggest hiking challenge in the region is definitely Mount Goun. Standing at about 4,071 meters, it is the third-highest peak in North Africa.

There are various routes to the summit, with the standard route passing through the Tarkeddit Plateau. The trek is considered moderate to challenging. It involves high-altitude hiking, and trekkers should be in good physical condition and acclimatized to altitude.

The best time to trek Mount Goun is from May to September when the weather is more stable and the trails are clear of snow. However, weather conditions can change rapidly in the mountains, so it’s important to be prepared.

Guided treks usually take 4-6 days and the best is to find a local guide directly at Ait Bouguemez instead of using the services of travel agents from Marrakesh. It will save you a lot of money, even though you need to arrive at Ait Bouguemez at your own cost. The guide will provide you with food, tents, mules, and muleteers. 

For other hiking options, please ask about at your accommodation. Locals have the best knowledge of where to go!

Dinosaur Footprints

Nothing indicates the presence of the site from the road so it’s a bit hard to find. You need to go behind the houses and it feels like walking into someone’s backyard. Most likely some locals will show you the way for a few dirhams. The rural experience is more fascinating than the tracks themselves, although it really feels like touching the history.

Lac Izoughar

Most likely the lake will be without water, but the views with nearby peaks are well worth it. It’s an easy trek of about 1 hour from the town of Zawyat Oulmzi, starting from the vicinity of Gite Touda.

Tizi N’ Tighist Conservation Center

This museum is located at the foot of Mount Rat and preserves rock inscriptions dating back to more than 2500 years BC. Look for “Tizi N’ Tighist conservation des gravures rupestres de Jbel Rat” in Google Maps.

Tizi n’ Tirghist

You need to go over this pass with an elevation of 2.628 meters above sea level to reach the road R302. Before driving up, make sure the weather conditions are favourable.

Iminifri Natural Bridge

Amazing geological formation located near the town of Demnate. It is a natural rock arch that spans a river, created through the erosive forces of water over a long period. There are steps down on both sides so you can easily make a half an hour loop hike. Good footwear is recommended but you can skip the guide services.

Tizi n’Test is a mountain pass located in the High Atlas mountains, that connects the cities of Marrakech and Taroudant via a scenic but challenging route. The pass is at an elevation of approximately 2,092 meters above sea level.

It has been a critical route for centuries, used by traders and travellers moving between the northern plains and the southern regions of Morocco. The area is rich in Berber culture, with many traditional Berber villages that can be visited along the route.

The Tizi n’Test area is geologically active and subject to seismic events due to the region’s tectonic activity. The High Atlas Mountains are situated on the boundary between the African and Eurasian tectonic plates and this tectonic interaction creates fault lines and seismic activity.

September 2023 Earthquake

A strong 6.8-magnitude earthquake occurred in Morocco on September 8, 2023. The epicentre was roughly 72 kilometres southwest of Marrakech, close to the town of Oukaimedene in the High Atlas Mountains. This earthquake occurred at a shallow depth of 18 kilometres, resulting in strong surface shaking that was felt over a wide area, including Casablanca, Portugal, and Algeria. Significant damage was wrought by the earthquake, especially in the province of Al Haouz and the neighbouring High Atlas area. Over 2,900 people lost their lives and over 5,500 were injured as a result of it. Buildings collapsed and infrastructure was damaged in numerous isolated mountain settlements, making rescue operations difficult. Marrakech’s historic neighbourhoods also sustained significant damage.

About 20 minutes after the initial earthquake, an additional 4.9 magnitude aftershock occurred, making rescue and relief efforts much more challenging. The level of destruction and the difficult terrain presented major obstacles to the Moroccan government’s and foreign aid organizations’ massive attempts to deliver relief to the impacted populace.

How to get there?

The best option is to rent a car either in Taroudant, Marrakesh or Agadir. The landscape is phenomenal and it’s good to be independent and travel at your own pace. I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary.

If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.

Not having a car will make a trip significantly longer and less comfortable. Most likely you will need to take local minibuses or hitchhike but there is not a lot of traffic.

The best time to visit

The best time to drive Tizi n’Test is during the late spring, summer, and early autumn months.

Late Spring (April to June): Generally mild and pleasant temperatures. The mountains are lush with greenery and wildflowers are in bloom, making for beautiful views.

Summer (July to September): Warm to hot temperatures but cooler in the higher elevation of the pass. The road is typically clear of snow, and driving conditions are generally safe. There are fewer tourists compared to other popular destinations in Morocco, offering a more tranquil experience.

Early Autumn (October to early November): Mild and pleasant temperatures with the possibility of cooler nights. The autumn colours begin to appear, adding to the visual appeal of the drive.

Winter (December to February): Definitely to avoid. The pass can be closed due to snow and icy conditions. Even if open, the driving can be hazardous. Early spring (March) is not the best either. While the snow might begin to melt, conditions can still be unpredictable, with the possibility of lingering snow and ice on the road.

Safety

As mentioned before, I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary. However, always aim to travel during daylight hours to better appreciate the views and ensure safer driving conditions. Before embarking on your journey, check the weather forecast and road conditions. Weather in mountainous areas can change rapidly.

A mobile signal may be weak or nonexistent in some areas, so inform someone of your travel plans and expected arrival time. Last but not least, ensure your vehicle is in good condition, with a full tank of fuel and emergency supplies. By planning your trip during the optimal months and taking necessary precautions, you can enjoy a safe and scenic drive through the Tizi n’Test.

How long does it take?

The distance between Taroudant and Marrakesh is 225 km and it takes 5 hours of driving but obviously, you should add some time for stops as the views are amazing. A detour to Lalla Takerkoust will add about one more extra hour to driving time.

The drive through Tizi n’Test

I had some doubts if driving through the pass a few days after the earthquake was a good idea, but the day before departure I had met a guy travelling on a motorcycle who confirmed that the pass was open. I left Taroudant very early in the morning and headed east towards Oulad Ali. It was October 24th, so a bit over a month since the deadly earthquake.

On the way there I noticed three young boys hitchhiking on the side of the road so I decided to give them a lift. They seemed to be really nice even though we couldn’t communicate in English. I made several stops to take pictures and soon I saw the first village which seemed to be destroyed by the quake. There was a lot of rubble and some collapsed buildings. I bit further were emergency tents in blue or yellow colours, providing temporary shelters for inhabitants.

The way to the top of the pass was easy and soon I reached Hotel La Haute Vue. A traditional small cafe and restaurant where you can enjoy cool drinks or even spend a night if you wish to. Waking up near the top of the pass must be magical!

More interesting places and landscapes were waiting along on the descent. Near the pass is the historic Tin Mal Mosque, built in the 12th century. It is one of the few mosques in Morocco that non-Muslims can visit and is an important site in Moroccan history. It was significantly damaged during the earthquake and was off-limits for tourists.

I took many hitchhikers on that day. The most interesting was the guy carrying a huge bag full of nuts. As we reached his destination, he repacked some nuts into a smaller plastic bag and handed it to me as a thank-you gift. Very nice of him!

The area along the descent towards Marrakesh seemed to be the most destroyed by the earthquake, with lots of collapsed buildings emergency tents and destroyed cars. I saw plenty of police and military vehicles as well as volunteers working for World Central Kitchen and other humanitarian organizations providing aid.

Local people were forced to live inside temporary tents while the temperatures at night were close to 0 C. It was a shocking view and it helped to realize how powerful that natural disaster was. The houses in that region are mostly built from clay or earth and that’s why they are so fragile to collapse.

When I passed Asni, I decided to make a detour to Lalla Takerkoust to see the lake, but the way to get there was much more interesting than the lake itself.

The lake is actually a reservoir created by the Lalla Takerkoust Dam, built during the French colonial period in the 1920s. It is a popular spot for water activities such as jet skiing, kayaking, paddle boarding, and fishing. The serene environment also makes it ideal for picnics and relaxing by the water.

Agafay Desert may not be as impressive as the Sahara, but the first impression was quite good. Lots of quads were driving around as it is a popular half-day activity from Marrakesh.

Dakhla, located on a narrow peninsula in the Western Sahara region, is a unique and increasingly popular travel destination. Its lagoon is especially famous among water sports enthusiasts, who come over to practice mostly kitesurfing and windsurfing.

Dakhla has a rich history influenced by various cultures, including Berber, Arabic, and Spanish. It was previously known as Villa Cisneros during Spanish colonial rule. Today, the town retains a mix of Moroccan and Sahrawi cultures, with traditional music, crafts, and cuisine being important aspects of daily life.

The area around Dakhla has been inhabited for thousands of years, primarily by Berber tribes. In ancient times, it was part of trans-Saharan trade routes, facilitating exchanges between sub-Saharan Africa, North Africa, and Europe.

In the late 19th century, during the Scramble for Africa, Spain established control over parts of the Western Sahara, including Dakhla. The town was founded in 1884 as Villa Cisneros, named after Francisco Jiménez de Cisneros, a Spanish cardinal. Under Spanish rule, Villa Cisneros became an important administrative and military outpost. The Spanish constructed infrastructure such as roads, buildings, and a military base.

After World War II, anti-colonial movements gained momentum across Africa. In Western Sahara, resistance against Spanish rule began to intensify. By the mid-20th century, Spain faced increasing pressure to decolonize. In 1975, following the Madrid Accords, Spain agreed to withdraw from Western Sahara, transferring administrative control to Morocco and Mauritania.

The withdrawal of Spain led to a conflict involving Morocco, Mauritania, and the Polisario Front, which seeks independence for Western Sahara. Mauritania withdrew in 1979, leaving Morocco in control of Dakhla and most of Western Sahara. A ceasefire was brokered by the United Nations in 1991, but the political status of Western Sahara remains unresolved. Dakhla is currently administered by Morocco, which considers it part of its southern provinces.

Today, the Moroccan Western Sahara Wall or the Berm, which is approximately 2,700 km long, runs south to north through Western Sahara and the southwestern portion of Morocco. It separates the Moroccan-controlled areas on the west from the Polisario-controlled areas on the east.

How to get there?

To get to Laayoune in Western Sahara, you typically have a few options:

By Air: You can fly to Dakhla Airport with Royal Air Maroc from major cities, such as Casablanca or Marrakech.

By Road: The roads are generally well-maintained, but it’s a long journey, so be prepared for a drive of several hours or more depending on your starting point. If you are looking for a rental car in Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. They are very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.

By Bus: Supratours and CTM are two popular bus companies operating in Morocco.

You may also check your connections at 12go.com.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Western Sahara is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying nearby beaches and exploring the city and its surroundings.

Where to stay?

Karam City Hotel is an excellent choice. It is very well located in the city centre, close to shops, restaurants and waterfront. It has very good internet for remote work and a tasty breakfast that you can purchase additionally.

How long to stay there?

One full day in Dakhla is enough to walk around the town and try seafood. Count in extra days in case you want to practice windsurfing or kitesurfing which are extremely popular in the bay or venture out of town to the desert.

How to get around?

The city centre of Dakhla can be easily explored on foot, but to reach sights out of it, you will need your wheels. I rented a Dacia Duster for 2 days from Baie Car. I got in touch with them on WhatsApp and the car was delivered straight to my hotel. The price was 900 MAD for 2 days. Perfect experience!

Once driving, don’t forget your passport as you may encounter frequent police checkpoints.

What to do in Dakhla?

The city center of Dakhla is not particularly nice to walk around but there are a few sights worth checking out. Several mosques serve the Muslim population: Grande Mosquée de Dakhla, Mosquée Eddarham, Mosquée du Quartier Al-Ghofrane and Mosquée Albir.

Catholic temple is present too – Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. A small group of priests, who alternate between this church and the Cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi in Laayoune, oversee the temple. Spanish settlers constructed it for what is sometimes referred to as the Spanish Church. Nearby is a quiet park with a fountain.

The other three sights are located on the outskirts of town, so you will need to take a short taxi ride to get there. Don’t forget to negotiate the price!

Faro de Dakhla is a lighthouse dating back to the Spanish colonial era. The lighthouse is a popular spot for sunset viewing and fishing with a beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean.

La Sarga is a fishing village located about 15 km south of Dakhla, at the end of the peninsula. There are hundreds of fishing boats there that are towed to and from the sea by tractors. The working conditions of the fishermen are harsh and the poor housing is eye-opening. The people are friendly although the amount of rubbish all around is overwhelming and depressing view.

Oum El Bouir is a relatively nice sandy beach which is the nearest one to Dakhla city centre.

What to do out of town?

The whole peninsula is famous among water sports enthusiasts and you will see plenty of shops or resorts offering courses of kitesurfing or windsurfing. It’s an excellent place to learn new sports or improve your skills.

Trouke 25 Beach is a good spot to chill with the view of Dragon Island and big parking with plenty of campervans. It is possible to walk all the way to the island during low tide but be careful and check the tide times before you set off as you don’t want to be stuck on the island overnight. Fishermen come over here to collect various seafood from the seabed.

The White Dune is probably the most popular natural tourist attraction in Dakhla and can be seen in every travel brochure. It is reachable by 4WD through a dirt road cutting across the desert, but if you are ready to walk, you can get there even without 4WD as I did.

From the main road, turn right into a dirt road leading to Paraiso Dakhla Hotel. Drive as far as you can and then simply park the car on the roadside and continue on foot. You may want to use the mobile app MapyCZ for navigation as it shows all the paths in that area. It is possible to turn the hike into a pretty long loop, going back to the car through a desert and not along the coast. Don’t forget the water!

At low tide and from the distance, the White Dune looks like an island. First, I climbed it and then went down again to take some pictures from a different perspective. It was windy but absolutely breathtaking!

Portorico Beach is a beautiful place, with a huge bay and a desert that falls directly into the sea. It was so windy that I ended up with sand all over my face. The way down there is a bit bumpy but doable in 2WD with higher clearance. There is a military post but the guards were friendly and greeted me with smiles.

The Tropic of Cancer passes through eight countries in Africa, namely Egypt, Libya, Chad, Niger, Algeria, Mali, Mauritania and Western Sahara. You will spot an information board about 5 kilometres south from the turn-off to Portorico Beach.

Imlili Desert was definitely a highlight of my trip. I turned left from the main road, about 55 kilometres south of the Dakhla Roundabout. The target was to reach Imlili Sebkha which is a salt flat with over 160 permanent holes of hypersaline water containing fish. Unfortunately, the pools are not signposted and I wouldn’t risk going there without 4X4.

For the first few kilometres, the road was in excellent condition but then the asphalt finished and I hit the dirt. It was possible to continue further until I reached a very sandy section. I didn’t pass any other cars on the way there and when I looked around I didn’t see anyone either. As my car wasn’t 4X4, I decided not to try my luck. I parked Duster on the roadside and continued on foot to the nearby hill.

The panorama of the Imlili Desert was magnificent even though it was very windy. I felt some regret that I couldn’t continue driving further but I knew that turning back was the only sensible thing to do. I didn’t even have a mobile signal!

As the alternative to self-driving, the Imlili Desert can be visited as a part of an organized 4X4 tour, however, it won’t be cheap. Ask about it at your accommodation in Dakhla and they will provide you with the latest offers and prices.

If you continue further south towards the border with Mauretania, you will pass Imlili Town and most probably another police patrol. A police officer asked me where I was heading but luckily a very simple answer that I was just sightseeing and driving around satisfied him. About 7 kilometres after Imlili, watch out for a turn off to the right, into an asphalt road. It goes to Candelaria Beach which is another secluded place with a small military camp. Soon after the turn-off, on your left you will spot huge salt flats, so don’t hesitate to park the car at the roadside and walk around to take some pictures. On the right, you can climb the dunes for the magnificent ocean view.

Candelaria Beach was the southernmost point that I visited in Western Sahara. I saw plenty of tourists travelling towards the border with Mauretania in their campervans and it was tempting to do the same, even by hitchhiking. Hopefully one day I will be able to get to that country too!