One of my favourite national parks in Thailand is located just next to the impressive Mekong River. Pha Taem is named after a large cliff where besides the panoramic views, you can also admire ancient rock paintings. There are excellent hiking trails and well-maintained campsites.

How much is the entrance fee?

The ticket for one day costs 400 THB for foreigners, so it’s quite expensive compared to other national parks. To fully enjoy it, I suggest spending two days in the park, including camping on one of the cliffs.

How to get there?

Ubon Ratchathani can be reached by air, train, or bus from Bangkok. There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon which take less than an hour. Train and buses are significantly cheaper but the travel time takes between 9 – 11 hours. My preference is the sleeping train which has the best comfort-to-price ratio but the arrival is very early in the morning, so you will need to hang around the city a few hours before checking in to the hotel.

From Ubon Ratchathani, you will need to get a bus or minibus further to Khong Chiam.

You may check your connections at 123Go.Asia

How to get around?

You can travel comfortably through the park by car or motorbike. If you are in Khong Chiam, ask around at your accommodation or Baan Steak Restaurant.

If you plan a long road trip in Isan, I recommend renting a car in Ubon Ratchathani. In bigger cities, there is always more competition and better prices. I used the services of Smile Rent a Car and got a well-maintained and cheap Toyota Yaris.

When to go?

The park has a monsoon climate with three seasons: the rainy season (June to October), the cool season (October to February), and the dry and hot season (February to June). The waterfalls will look the best in the middle or at the end of the rainy season. Other periods are nice as well but be aware that in May, the road to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is closed and there is very little or no water in the falls.

Where to stay?

I recommend the Khong Chiam 2 Hotel in the small town of the same name. It’s conveniently located close to the main road and the night market. The room was clean and very spacious, with fast internet.

Itinerary

The first turn-off when driving from Khong Chiam takes you to Sao Chaliang. It is a natural monolith formed by water and wind erosion that resembles mushrooms. There are visible remains of shells, gravel, and sand in the rock, therefore, it is assumed that about a million years ago, this area used to be the sea. The Meak Mai Sai Than Hin Taek Nature Trail is comprised of 3 pathways. The first trail is 350 meters long, the second one has 1 kilometer and the third one is 2.7 kilometers. I highly recommend doing the longest loop as the views are really beautiful.

Further down the road is Pha Taem Cliff with incredible views over the Mekong River, a natural border between Thailand and Laos. Due to its geographical location to the east, the area is also known as the best place to experience the first rays of the sun in the country.

The hiking trail takes you first down the cliff to see ancient prehistoric paintings that were first discovered in 1981. They were made in various styles and techniques and present people, animals (elephant, turtle, catfish, and freshwater stingray), utensils, symbols, and human palms. The paintings are dated to be approximately 3,000 – 2,500 years old. Then you will climb up and return to the parking lot following the path at the top of the cliff. The total distance is nearly 5 kilometres but it is worth it!

Another turn-off from Road 2112 takes you to Soi Sawan Waterfall. From the parking, there is a short walk down to the falls. It was a beautiful sight even though there was very little water in May. From the parking area, you can also take a longer hike to Pha Chek Cliff and Pha Moei Cliff. The panorama of the Mekong River from there is simply breathtaking. The distance is about 4.5 km one way which should take 1.5-2h to complete.

Come back to the main road and continue further north. Saeng Chan Waterfall is another exciting place to stop by and quite unusual because the water runs through the hole in the sandstone rock. Take your time to absorb the atmosphere of this place!

Nearby, there is Thung Na Mueang Waterfall and if you continue following the road along the Mekong River, you will reach its end and the easternmost point of Thailand.

The next two attractions are a bit more difficult to reach. The road up to Pha Chana Dai Cliff is narrow and there are specific times when you can go up and down. The schedule as of April 2023 looked as follows:

Time of going up: 04:30 – 06:30, 10:30 – 13:00, 16:00 – 18:00

Time of going down: 07:30 – 09:30, 14:00 -15:00, 19:00 – 19:30

The road seems to be closed during the month of May. Check their website for the most recent information.

The cliff is an easy 10 minutes walk from the car park and provides great views over the Mekong and into the mountains of Laos. Consider camping overnight to see the magnificent sunrise! Huai Phok Waterfall is nearby.

On the way to Pha Chana Dai, don’t forget to stop at Twin Pillars which is another sandstone formation shaped like a mushroom. Very photogenic!

Further north, you may visit Pha Chang, another scenic area with lower cliffs on the Mekong riverbank. It’s free to visit and you can park your car just at the end of the road and walk down the remaining distance. In the same area, you will find Sao Chaliang Yai, which is another rock formation resembling a giant mushroom.

Nearby

Sam Phan Bok

This place doesn’t belong to Pha Taem National Park but it’s pretty close to it and in my opinion, you can’t miss it. Sam Phan Bok means 3000 holes and as soon as you see the landscape, you will understand why it is called like that. The waters of the Mekong River eroded sandstone rocks into unique shapes. You may walk down there by yourself or hire a pickup truck for 150 THB to give you a lift. The distance isn’t long but it’s exposed terrain and on a sunny day it can be incredibly hot. There are people selling drinks and you may also accept the service of a young local guide showing you around, pointing at some unique rock formations such as Mickey Mouse, and taking photos of you.

Located in Thailand’s Nakhon Ratchasima Province, Khao Yai National Park has a long and fascinating history. It was established as the country’s first national park in 1962 and is now one of the most popular tourist destinations not far from Bangkok. The area is home to stunning waterfalls, rainforests, mountains, as well as elephants, and other incredible wildlife. Read on to discover the amazing attractions that await you inside and outside of the park!

How to get there?

Khao Yai National Park is located about 180 kilometres northeast of Bangkok and about 3-4 hours’ drive from the capital. If travelling by public transport, the best option would be to take a train or bus from Bangkok to Pak Chong and then hail a taxi, take a songthaew or rent a motorbike for a one-hour drive to the Khao Yai.

You may also check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

When to go?

The park can be visited during the whole year, however, the chances of animal encounters or the size of waterfalls will vary significantly.

The hot seasons last from March to May. While it isn’t as hot as it is in the cities, the rainfall is very low and waterfalls aren’t too impressive, or some may even dry up completely. The advantage is a minimal number of leeches.

The rainy season lasts from June to September. Waterfalls are and their best and you can hear a loud noise of flowing water even from a distance. The vegetation is green and dense. Unfortunately, there are plenty of leeches so you will need to be extra careful.

The cool season lasts from October to February and the average temperatures are the lowest during the year. It can get especially cold in the mountains during the night. The skies are blue and the visibility is excellent. As this period is just after the end of the rainy season, the waterfalls are still nice to see, especially in October.

Where to stay?

I decided to stay in Pak Chong, which is a bigger town not far from the national park. I recommend this option for people working online, as it may be hard to find reliable WIFI in nature. The place I stayed in was called Pak Chong Hostel & Wildlife Tours and it was excellent. The room is simple and only with a fan, but it was just enough for me. The owner is incredibly friendly. He picked me out from the train station, took me for lunch, rented a motorbike, explained the best things to do in the park and even provided me with leech socks. He also organizes tours, which may be a good option in case you are travelling in a bigger group. The only disadvantage of staying in Pak Chong is the distance to the national park entrance gate. It’s about 30 km and 40 minutes of riding a motorbike.

For those without the need of being connected to the Internet, the best would be to stay at a campsite or in a bungalow inside the park. It would give you much higher chances for encounters with wildlife at dawn and dusk.

What to take?

It’s a tropical environment and there are a few items that you definitely should take with you, to make your trip enjoyable and safe.

1. Sunscreen

2. Insect Repellent

3. Leech socks

4. Hat

5. Sunglasses

6. Lightweight and comfortable clothing

7. Trekking shoes

8. Water bottle

9. Snacks

10. Raincoat or poncho

11. First aid kit

12. Camera

13. Binoculars

14. Map of the park

Entrance fee

The ticket is quite pricey compared to other national parks in Thailand, but taking into consideration its size, it’s understandable. As of May 2023, foreign adults will pay 400 THB and children 200 THB. Thai citizens of course will pay much less, 40 THB for adults and 20 THB for children. Unfortunately, the double price policy is quite standard in this country. There is a small additional fee if you are entering the park with a motorbike or car.

What to do inside the park

Chao Phor Khao Yai Shrine

It is the first sight that you will see when entering the national park from the Pak Chong side. The shrine was erected in memory of Mr Jang Nisaisat, the individual who had protected the animals and forest of Khao Yai and was widely respected by local villagers.

Km. 30 Viewpoint

Shortly after passing the shrine, you will encounter this beautiful viewpoint. It faces the north and in the morning there is often a sea of mist below the mountain range.

Trail #3: Km. 33 – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 4.2 km one-way

Time: 2.5 – 3 hours

The trail starts at the roadside by the Km. 33 milestone. It was highly recommended by my host in Pak Chong to hike it first and preferably do it in the early morning. He was right! It was definitely the highlight of my visit. You will see different types of vegetation: mature dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. I saw hornbills, gibbons and some other insects. The sound made by gibbons was amazing! Closer to Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower, you can see some traces of elephants as they come near the water sources and salt licks. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any at that time.

From the observation tower, you may either hike back the same way or continue to the asphalt road and hitchhike back to your car or motorbike. The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #5: Dong Tiw – Nong Phak Chi

Distance: 5.5 km one-way

Time: 3 hours

The trail can be combined with #3 in one big loop. It starts at the side of Thanarat Road about 200m from the Visitor Center at Sai Sorn Reservoir and finishes around Nong Phak Chi Observation Tower. The highlight of this trail is a giant Baing tree which is centuries old.

The trail can be started between 8 AM and 2 PM.

Trail #4: Dong Tiw – Sai Sorn Reservoir

Distance: 2.7 km one-way

Time: 1.5  – 2 hours

This one-way trail leads to Sai Sorn Reservoir, a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. It is just a much shorter version of trail #5. In the rainy season, you may see a beautiful array of flowers such as balloon plants, begonia and mossiata. The trail also connects with #5 and #7.

Trail #7: Thai-American Friendship Trail

Distance: 2 km loop

Time: 1.5  hours

It starts and ends at the Ridge of Sai Sorn Reservoir. The trail celebrates the long and friendly relations between Thailand and the USA. You will walk through dry forest, secondary forest and grassland. Frequently encountered wildlife include the Siamese Fireback, silver pheasant, gibbons and hornbills.

Trail #1: Visitor Center – Kong Kaew Waterfall

Distance: 1.2 km loop

Time: 45 mins – 1 hour

The trail begins at the hanging bridge behind the Visitor Center. This is the shortest and the easiest trail in the national park. Animals encountered might include the Lar gibbon, pileated gibbon and various birds. At the end of the trail is a small Kong Kaew Waterfall. Nothing too impressive but a pleasant place to rest next to the stream with volcanic rocks.

Trail #6: Visitor Center – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 8 km one-way

Time: 6 hours

The longest and the most challenging trail in the national park. You will walk through both rainforest and dry forests interspersed with bamboo groves. Animals encounters may include elephants, gibbons, Asian black bears and hornbills. There are many twists and turns, so the route may be confusing, and this is why you should consider arranging an experienced trail guide. The reward at the end is one of the two most beautiful waterfalls in the park.

The hikes should be started before 10.00. It is closed between July 1st – August 31st.

Trail #2: Pha Kluai Mai Campground – Haew Suwat Waterfall

Distance: 3 km one-way

Time: 2 hours

This nature trail links two waterfalls, following the Lam Ta Khong stream. Along the trail, you will hear the thundering sound of Pha Kluay Mai Waterfall during the rainy season. Unfortunately, in May the water level was very low so the trail wasn’t that impressive to me. On the other hand, when water levels drop, you can see the traces of lava flow from a volcano hundreds of millions of years ago.

Haew Suwat Waterfall

One of the two most impressive waterfalls in the Khao Yai National Park. Lam Ta Khong stream falls 25 metres down the volcanic rock. There is a nice viewpoint where the falls can be seen through vegetation but for a much better experience, you should go down quite steep steps to the basin. In the dry season, you may check out the cave just behind the water curtain.

Sai Sorn Reservoir

A picturesque place with plains for picnics and sufficient parking along the road. A popular place for event photography too. Hiking trails #4, #5 and #7 pass nearby.

Pha Diaw Dai Viewpoint

The wooden boardwalk is approximately 450 meters long and leads you through a pristine forest, which is extremely atmospheric in the wet weather. The views from the stony edge of the cliff over the Rom Khwang mountain range are truly breathtaking.

While driving up here, you will pass by Viewpoint 3 at Yod Khao Khieo Mountain. The panorama is great as well but there is no place to stop and park a car or motorbike.

Pha Trom Jai Cliff

It is located 600 metres from the Pha Diaw Dai, just next to the entrance to the Royal Thai Air Force radar station. At an elevation of 1,290 meters above sea level, this is the highest viewpoint in the central region of Thailand. The view, however, isn’t the best.

Haew Narok Waterfall

Haew Narok is located to the south of Khao Yai National Park on Highway 3077, about 23 km from the Visitor Center. It’s an excellent road through the dense forest with a high chance of seeing wild elephants, especially in the later afternoon. Drive slowly!

The waterfalls are the largest and tallest in the park (150 metres). From the parking, there is a 1-kilometre trail going over Huay Samor Poon Stream and then down the steep staircase to the best viewpoint.

According to the national park website, the area of the waterfall is a permanent part of wild elephants’ foraging range, which has been the cause of tragedy with elephants falling down the waterfall. The first time was on 2 August 1992, when a family of 8 elephants was lost as they were crossing the stream in the forest at the top of Haew Narok Waterfall, making it known as an “elephant graveyard”. On 5 October 2019, another 11 elephants were lost.

Night Safari

When joining the tour, you may see nocturnal animals, such as sambar deer, Malayan porcupine, large Indian civet, Asian palm civet, wild elephant, owls and nightjars. Inquire and reserve a time slot at Khao Yai Visitor Center, at the service desk before 6 p.m. The guided journey on a pick-up truck is 10 km long and takes about one hour. The price is 600 THB per vehicle fitting up to 10 people.

Whitewater Rafting

The rainy season from July to October is the best for this activity as the water current is strong and turbulent, and suitable for rafters wanting to be challenged. Hin Phoeng Rapids is used as a starting point and then a trip continues on a 2.5 km stretch with 6 rapids called Kaeng Hin Phoeng, Kaeng Phak Nam Lom, Kaeng Wang Bon, Kaeng Luk Seua, Kaeng Wang Sai and Kaeng Ngu Hao.

What to do outside of the park

Ban Tha Chang Spring

A popular place for locals to come for a dip. Very clear water with plenty of space to enjoy. You may also rent a kayak and check out the small river. Free entrance and free parking

Khao Yai Art Museum

Surprisingly good place with paintings and sculptures of local artists. Don’t miss a walk in the garden which is full of art installations. Free entrance.

Wat Tham Sila Thong

Ask the monk to give you a key to a cave. It has a hole in the ceiling, but the cave is quite dark so it’s good to have your own flashlight.

Bat Cave

It’s not really a cave to explore, but rather an observation point for a spectacle straight from National Geographic documentaries. At dusk, thousands of bats fly out of the cave in a continuous stream. Unique and amazing experience! The show of nature usually happens between 5:45 PM – 7 PM and lasts for a surprisingly long time. Over 20 minutes once I was there!

Sarika Waterfall

Another nice waterfall with a beautiful winding road up the mountains to get there. Entrance ticket for foreigners costs 200 THB and for Thais 40 THB. As in all the other waterfalls in this region, it’s best to visit in the rainy season.

Nang Rong Waterfall

Small and free waterfall but unfortunately not very well maintained. A popular picnic place for local people.

Khun Dan Prakarn Chon Dam

The longest and largest dam in Thailand. You can either walk or rent an electric golf cart to get to the other side. Obviously, I recommend walking. There’s also an option to go on a boat trip further down the lake and to the nearby waterfall.

It’s a popular tourist destination as it’s conveniently located between Phuket and Koh Samui or Koh Phangan. The main attractions of Khao Sok are Cheow Lan Lake, wildlife, iconic limestone hills, waterfalls, raft houses spread over the lake, trails, caves and rivers. It’s a real paradise for nature lovers and be sure that some time here will stay in your memories forever.

The park covers 739 square kilometres and was officially established on the 22nd of December 1980. Luckily, in the 1970s, Thai students, who had joined communist insurgency groups, set up a stronghold in Khao Sok, as it provided ideal conditions to hide and operate guerilla warfare. They managed to keep at a distance not only the Thai Army but also loggers, miners and hunters. Who knows what the rainforest would look like now if not for coincidences like this one?

In 1982 Rajjaprabha Dam was built, closing off the Pasaeng river and creating 165 km² of the Cheow Larn Lake. This dam was built to provide a source of electricity to southern Thailand, which by now had become a major tourist destination.

How to get to Khao Sok?

It’s a popular place so arranging transportation from other spots in Thailand will be rather easy. The most convenient way is to start the trip from Krabi, Phuket, Khao Lak or Surat Thani with a minivan. Just ask the travel agent or the receptionist at your hotel and I’m sure they will guide you through the options.

I started from Krabi but in this section of my travel, I had a rental car for about two weeks, so it was really easy to get around. I took a white Toyota Yaris ATIV from PURE Krabi Car Rental and it was easily the best and the most worry-free rental experience that I have ever had. Easy contact through Whatsapp with the owner, no deposit needed, the low maximum liability of 5,000 THB and there was even a free WiFi device on board. Perfect!

When to go?

It’s a humid jungle environment with high temperatures and heavy rains year-round. The rain intensifies during the months of June through November but it shouldn’t discourage you from visiting this beautiful place. Just be prepared to get wet at any time of the year. Tropical downpours can be strong but usually, they don’t last for long. After all, it’s a rainforest!

If you really hate rain, February is the driest month on average with 30mm of rainfall, so plan your trip at this time.

How long to stay?

At least 3 days should be counted to fully enjoy the visit to Khao Sok. I spent 2 days on the trip to Cheow Larn Lake and 1 additional day hanging around the village and enjoying a guided night jungle walk. Anything shorter would have felt rushed.

Where to stay?

I booked a room at Khao Sok Jungle Huts Resort which was an excellent choice. Free parking, mosquito net, great restaurant and unbelievably friendly host. I arranged all my trips here. The place is very green with easy access to the river and you can occasionally spot some monkeys.

What to take with you?

You won’t need much, but make sure these items find a place in your bag:

• Rain jacket
• Sports shoes or trekking sandals that can get wet (for the cave tour)
• Long trousers and long socks
• Swimsuit
• Insect repellant with DEET (there will be leeches)
• Sunglasses
• Hat

National Park fees and opening hours

According to the official website, as of June 2022, the entrance fees for foreigners are 200 THB for adults and 100 THB for children 3-14 years old. Thai citizens pay 40 Baht for adults and 20 Baht for children. The entrance fees are valid for multiple days only if staying inside the park, either when camping or staying at raft houses on the lake. In other cases, you will have to buy a new ticket every day, which I find a bit ridiculous. After coming back from the tour of raft houses, I still wanted to do the guided night walk and I had to pay again for the new entrance ticket.

Luckily, it seems that the prices went down because when I was visiting in March 2022, the entrance ticket was 300 THB.

The park is open from 6 AM to 6 PM daily, all year round. Entering after 6 PM is possible if you do a night walk with a guide.

What to do in Khao Sok?

The park can be split into two popular areas, which are 67 km apart. The first one is around the national park headquarters and Khao Sok Village, where it is possible to hike a number of trails, join guided night walks, visit waterfalls or take part in activities on the river. The second one is around Cheow Lan Lake and is popular for boat trips, raft houses, caves and limestone mountains.

Overnight trip to Cheow Lan Lake

I booked a 2D 1N trip at my hotel one day in advance. The cost should be around 2,500 THB but ask if the entrance ticket to the national park is included.

The minibus picked me and some other guests up and we were taken to Cheow Lan Lake Pier where we bought national park tickets and boarded a long tail boat. The ride on the lake was extremely fun. Interestingly, the lake was created in 1982 as part of a damming project to provide hydroelectricity to the south of Thailand. It stretches over an area of 165 km². We were surrounded by limestone hills and it all felt like going deeper into some unknown Jurrasic Park.

There are many raft houses spread all over the lake, from which it is possible to visit caves, viewpoints, limestone hills and get to some exciting trails. The one I stayed at was called the Smiley Lakehouse. Very pleasant place with simple rooms and private bathrooms. As I was travelling alone, I was asked to share a room with another solo traveller. Of course, I agreed and ended up with a new friend from Germany.

We had a bit over one hour to chill out, swim in the lake or use one of many available kayaks. I decided to paddle around a bit but it was really tough in that sunny weather!

Then, it was time to return to the boat and head to Nam Thalu Cave. For me, it was the most adventurous part of visiting Khao Sok National Park. Once inside the cave, you wade or maybe even have to swim through the water. Keep all your valuables in a waterproof bag or ask your guide to store them for you. Due to the weather forecast for the afternoon which included rain, we were a bit hurried. Apparently, it may be extremely dangerous if you get caught inside the cave in heavy rain as the water level rises very fast.

We saw plenty of bats and spiders that can be recognized by their eyes reflecting the light. There could be also some snakes around but we didn’t see any. It is definitely not a place to go with small kids and you should wear proper shoes, not flip-flops.

As soon as we exited the cave, the heavy rain started so we were really just in time! It was raining the whole way back to the boat. Rain in the jungle means one thing. Be careful of leeches! A few people in our group were affected so it’s best to stop from time to time and check your body and the body of your buddy. They can move really fast so pay attention to the area around your ankles but also under your armpits.

We went back to the raft house where we had time to relax while waiting for dinner. It was really amazing to see when the rain stopped and clouds were rolling over the massive limestone hills.

The night was calm and in the early morning, we boarded the boat again, this time looking for wildlife. We saw a lot of monkeys and some hornbills, but unfortunately no elephants.

After breakfast, it was time to pack the bags and go back to the pier, with two more stops on the way: Khao Sam Kloe, which is a group of 3 beautiful rocks, and Pra Kie Phet Cave, a small and this time without water but with bats and some huge spiders which scared the shit out of me, even though they are harmless for humans.

In the end, the minibus transported us back to Khao Sok Village with a short lunch stop at Ratchaprapha Dam Scenic Viewpoint. All in all, it was a wonderful trip, absolutely worth the price. I highly recommend spending the night at the lake instead of doing only a day trip. It will add so much more to the experience!

You can also arrange your trip independently, by arriving at Cheow Lan Lake Pier and getting a boat from there to the floating house that you booked before or simply arranging the boat trip for a few hours. However, to see all the other attractions around, I believe it’s better to go for an organized trip with a guide, which includes an overnight stay in a raft house.

Night jungle walk

It’s actually a really fun experience, even though you don’t go deep in the jungle but rather follow the dirt road, around the park’s headquarters. We saw some frogs, snakes, spiders, and lizards as well as stick insects.

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Rafflesia flower hike

Rafflesia is a parasitic plant with no leaves or roots on its own. It invades the liana vines and like a parasite, it absorbs all the vine’s nutrients. Once a year small buds begin to develop beneath the root bark of the vine. As they mature, they swell, breaking through the bark. They then burst open revealing the massive flower, which can be up to 80 cm! I haven’t done this hike but it’s definitely on my list, even in other places in South East Asia!

Ton Kloi Waterfall

One of the hikes that starts at the national park headquarters. It is 7 km long and runs along the Sok River. The first 2.9 km of the trail, until a checkpoint guarded by rangers, doesn’t require any guide to walk. However, if you want to continue all the way to the end, the guide is obligatory. There are many other, smaller waterfalls along that trail.

Sip Et Chan Falls

This 11-tiered waterfall is accessible by a nearly 4 km long trail starting from the north side of the campground next to the park’s headquarters. You can walk the first 400-50 meters on a wooden boardwalk freely, but a guide is required for the remaining distance.

Mae Yai Waterfall

It’s outside of the national park and you can just see it from the road while driving from Khao Lak. Otherwise, I wouldn’t say that it’s worth a dedicated trip.

Khao Sok Elephant Sanctuary

It’s one of the sanctuaries with really good comments from visitors. You may be able to make food for the elephants, feed and walk with them, but riding or bathing is absolutely forbidden.

River tubing or bamboo rafting

Both activities are especially fun in wet months when the water level in the river is high. It’s best to arrange it directly at your hotel or at street agencies.

Off the beaten trail – Khlong Phanom National Park

Rarely visited park, with a very nice loop hiking trail which should take you under 2 hours. You have a couple of viewpoints along the way until you finally arrive at the big tree. The entrance fee is quite cheap at 100 THB.

Summary

It was a magical time in nature and if you are looking for something else than Thai islands, look no further. There are plenty of activities to do both for very active people and also for those lazier ones. Spend the night in a raft house, waking up early to admire the morning mist and listen to the sounds of the jungle. This is one of these experiences that you will remember for a lifetime. I am a big nature enthusiast and I had 3 days of an absolute blast.

Koh Tarutao is the largest island in the Tarutao National Park. The island is 11 kilometres wide, and 26 kilometres long and the highest point on the island is 700 meters high. The headquarters and visitor centre are located near the beach of Punte Malacca. Kayaks and bicycles can be rented there and a small shop offers snacks and drinks.

The island has an interesting, but dark history. In the late 1930s, political prisoners had been kept there with the total number reaching even 3.000 people in 1938. When The Second World War broke out, the supplies from the mainland to the island were cut off causing food shortages and the death of many prisoners. The guards and prisoners formed alliances in order to survive and started attacking ships passing by around the island. Around 130 ships were sunk before the British forces came to the rescue towards the end of the war. Until the prison was shut down, nearly a third of prisoners lost their lives due to cruelty from guards, starvation and malaria.

How to get to Ko Tarutao?

As of April 2022, the only option seemed to be taking a speedboat from Pakbara Pier which heads to Koh Lipe but stops on Tarutao Island for about half an hour to allow the passengers to have a short walk and take pictures on the beach. On the next day, you could continue your journey further and jump onto another speedboat heading to Ko Lipe.

Getting to Tarutao on the way back from Koh Lipe may be difficult as tour operators usually don’t make a stop there and go directly to Pakbara Pier. If you travel with a bigger group, it could be negotiable but otherwise, don’t consider that option.

The National Park entrance fee is payable at the ferry terminal, costs 200 THB for foreigners and is valid for 5 days.

When to go?

The island is open for tourists from October to May. From June to September, the visit is impossible and you will have to go directly to the more popular Koh Lipe instead.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island but using a bicycle rather than a motorbike (not available for rent) makes it way slower and more tiring to explore. 1 full day should be enough to see the highlights on your two wheels and enjoy beach time. If you want to visit Crocodile Cave, you need to count in some extra hours and either rent a kayak or ask around for a long-tail boat.

Where to stay?

National Park accommodations or tents are the only options on the island. I got a bungalow at Ao Phante Beach, close to the visitor centre and the restaurant. The room was quite big and had a private bathroom but there wasn’t a mosquito net which presence I always appreciate. It cost me 600 THB per night. I also saw some bungalows at Ao Molae Beach, where the group of monks was hanging out, and at Ao Son Beach, which looked completely empty.

You can rent a tent or bring your own and camp at all three locations mentioned above. For sure there is a restaurant near the visitor centre and another one near Molae Beach, but I’m not sure about Ao Son Beach.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to walking or renting a bicycle. Tourists are not allowed to rent or drive motorbikes on the island, only park rangers can do so. Bicycle rental costs 250 THB per day. Check the breaks as there are a lot of hills on the island, but it seems that the bikes are in general in good condition.

In high season, there should be also available old-fashioned leg wagons and shuttle taxis that drive around the island at fixed times, though I didn’t see any during my stay on the island.

Tips

• Always consult with rangers about your travel plan, especially your boat schedule or possible hikes.
• Take enough cash as there is no ATM on the island.
• Pack good insect repellent. There will be mosquitos and most probably sandflies as well. I was really badly bitten all over my legs and it was itching for several days.

Interesting places

Crocodile Cave

The name comes from a population of saltwater crocodiles that once lived on Koh Tarutao. But don’t worry, it’s history and now they are extinct. The cave can be reached by a longtail boat (the price should be around 450 THB) or by kayak (500 THB for the whole day) and you will go through a very scenic mangrove canal. As always in the caves in Thailand, it’s good to have your own flashlight to see as much as possible.

Ao Talo Wao

The most iconic sight on the island with the pier leading to a huge limestone rock. You can also notice a few smaller islands in the background. A good paved road with monkeys chilling on the side leads there all the way from the visitor centre, though it’s a bit hilly so take your time and don’t forget water. The distance is about 12 kilometres. There is also a ranger building displaying boards with information about the island.

A bit further are remains of historic buildings that once belonged to the prison. The trails around the site are narrower but still doable on bicycle. If you are lucky, you may see a wild boar.

Ao Taloh Udang

If you continue from Ao Talo Wao and the remains of the old prison even more towards the south, you are going to the place where political prisoners were kept. Unfortunately, the road isn’t paved and cannot be done on a bicycle. If you are adventurous, you can hike there but for me, it looked way too overgrown.

Mo Lae Bay

Calm beach close to a very nice bungalow complex, located four kilometres south of the headquarters. When I was passing by, there was a big group of monks. It was nice to see them chilling like that wearing their orange robes 🙂 There is a restaurant with tasty and affordable food too.

Ao Son Beach

Very long and beautiful beach, yet completely empty. It’s located another 4 kilometres away from Mo Lae Bay.

Lu Du Waterfall

A signposted track 300m inland from Ao Son Beach leads to this waterfall. It’s about 3 kilometres and 1.5 hours each way.

Toe Bu Cliffs

The hike takes about 20 minutes and starts just behind the National Park’s headquarters. There is a great view over Ao Pante beach and other islands.