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Hermannsburg

This Aboriginal community is on the way to Palm Valley, therefore its historic precinct is very often visited by organized groups on day tours. It was established in the 1880s as a Lutheran mission by German pastors, hence its name. They constructed characteristical buildings including a church, school and several houses. Today, you can enjoy your time in a tea shop, museum and the Namatjira Gallery.

Albert Namatjira is a world-famous Aboriginal watercolor artist born in Hermannsburg. Due to his art, he gained an appreciation and became the first Aboriginal person to get restricted Australian citizenship allowing him to vote, buy alcohol and claim land rights. In 1953 Namatjira was awarded the Queen’s Coronation Medal and in 1968 he was honored on an Australian postage stamp.

You can admire his works in many museums all around Australia and don’t forget to check the ones in the museum in Hermannsburg Historic Precinct.

Hermannsburg
Lutheran mission buildings
Hermannsburg
Old cars from Lutheran mission times
Hermannsburg
School building in Historic Precinct

Palm Valley

Palm Valley lies within Finke Gorge National Park that covers an area of around 46.000 hectares in Central Australia. Why is it so special? Because it’s like an oasis filled with around 12.000 Red Cabbage Palms after which the valley is named. There is no other place like that in the region and the nearest specimens are 850 km away in Queensland.

Why are there palms on the desert?

One of the very first versions claimed that palms are survivors from prehistoric times when the climate in this region was far more tropical. However, recent studies proved that the same species of palms grow around 1000 north around Mataranka and Katherine. It is believed that the seeds were transported from one place to another by migrating people 15.000 – 30.000 years ago. Why did they move? That remains uncertain and we can only speculate: the rise of sea levels, bushfires, etc.

The theory would, in fact, go in line with Aboriginal legend telling about palm seed brought by the ‘gods form the north’. Is it really possible that the legend survives more than 15.000 years? I don’t know but I like to believe it is. It only adds magical feeling to this already extraordinary place.

While Red Cabbage Palms are the main actors in this theatre, there are about 684 species of plants living in Finke Gorge National Park, 30 of them being rare and 16 that can be found only here.

Northern Territory, Australia
The Amphitheatre

How to get there?

You would need 4WD and I mean it. In many parts of Australia, I managed to access remote attractions with 2WD, just taking it easy and driving on corrugated dirt with care. But here, it certainly wouldn’t be possible. You will drive on a sandy bad of Finke River after all!

Therefore, without high clearance 4WD, I would suggest going for an organized tour as I did. It was a totally hassle-free experience in a 4WD truck and commentary provided by our guide Bluey from Emu Run Experience was probably the biggest advantage! Daily tours depart from Alice Springs and from there it takes around 2 hours to get to the national park. Besides Finke River National Park, they usually stop at Hermannsburg as well.

Northern Territory, Australia
The truck from Emu Run Experience tour operator

On the way back we saw 4WD Toyota Hilux in trouble when the driver went too fast and broke suspension which in the result made a puncture in the fuel tank. The fuel leaked out completely in just a few seconds and that was the end of the trip for unlucky ones. Other tourists gave them a lift to Alice Springs where they had to find a mechanic and spare parts and then come back to Palm Valley to fix the car onsite. Difficult Aussie life!

Northern Territory, Australia
Well prepared 4WD vehicles are essential to access Palm Valley

Overnight

If you travel independently you may want to set your camp at the dedicated spot and spend a night in this remote area. It must be an amazing experience and I would certainly do so next time. There are showers, toilets and barbecues provided. Don’t forget to take some cash to pay onsite.

Northern Territory, Australia

Walks in the area

Arankaia Walk (2 km, 1-hour return) – located in Palm Valley itself it gives you the best opportunity to admire these spectacular plants.

Mpulungkinya Walk (5km, 2-hours return) – the longer version of Arankaia Walk.

Kalarranga Lookout (1.5 km, 45 min return) – easy ascent to the top where I was rewarded by the panoramic view of the national park and surrounding amphitheater of rocks. It’s a breathtaking spot for sunset, so if you camp overnight, get here on time!

Mpaara Walk (5 km, 2 hours return) – it’s a nice walk but also cultural experience describing the mythology of Western Aranda Aboriginal people. The start is at Kalarranga parking.

Northern Territory, Australia
Trailhead of Arankaia and Mpulungkinya tracks
Northern Territory, Australia
The arid ground in Palm Valley

A few things to remember

Please don’t ignore the guidance provided by Finke River National Park:

  • Camping is only permitted in the designated camping areas at Palm Valley and along the Finke River at Boggy Hole.
  • Collect firewood before entering the park.
  • At Palm Valley, fires are only permitted in designated fire pits.
  • Pets are not permitted in the National Park.
  • Rubbish bins are not provided, so take your rubbish with you.
  • If traveling the Finke River 4WD route, stay on the marked track.
  • Be careful where you walk and stay on the marked tracks. Young palms can be destroyed by visitors not realizing what they are walking on. The regeneration of the palms is needed for the survival of this population.

Enjoy this beautiful place!

Hiking 1 of 10 New Zealand’s Great walks will bring you close to the best thing this country has to offer. Its nature. But be warned! It’s addictive and most likely the first of your Great Walks won’t be the last. Many people get pulled in by the idea and complete them all. So did I.

It’s a perfect opportunity for beginners in multi-day hiking to test their limits. You will be away for 2-4 days having a glimpse on backcountry experience but you don’t need any hardcore survival skills. Breath-taking scenery will reward even the worst weather. And when you can be alone on a track for quite some, you will certainly meet great people on campsites and in huts.

Before you go, make sure you are well prepared and packed all the essentials!

The art of packing

Packing for long-distance hikes can be a pain, especially for beginners. In the end, we consider many items as essentials that may be useful on the way. But once it’s all packed, we quickly realize the backpack is way too heavy. Believe me, the weight of each extra item on your back will matter when you ascend another hill.

It’s hard to avoid first-timer mistakes and I did learn some lessons on my own skin as well. To be honest, with every next hike, I’m taking less and fewer things. Consider my packing list for New Zealand’s Great Walks but also observe and learn from your own experience.

The list describes the suggested equipment for Great Walks in the summer season. Needless to say, equipment is necessary for harsh winter conditions.

Routeburn Track, New Zealand
Routeburn Track

Food

There is nothing that you can buy on the track, therefore whatever you take you with, it needs to last for the entire duration of the hike. To be on the safe side, it’s even recommended to take a supply for an extra day, in case of an unexpected injury or difficult weather conditions.

After a long day of the walk, you want to set up your tent and eat something warm as soon as possible. Prepare high-energy value meal that you can easily heat up. Freeze-dried food is a good idea as it just requires boiling the water, but it’s expensive.

For the first hikes, I used the food produced by Backcountry Cousine. The selection is really big and the meals are tasty but to be honest, I had to buy the bigger pack with a portion for 2 people to be really full. A meal costs around 10-15 NZD.

Whatever you take, the rule is simple. Eat the heaviest stuff first and keep the lightweight meals for last days.

Abel Tasman Track, New Zealand

Breakfast:

  • Bread with jam, honey or peanut butter
  • Instant cereal with fruits or porridge
  • Biscuits with jam
  • Powdered milk
  • Banana
  • Tea or coffee

Lunch:

  • Bread
  • Cheese
  • Salami
  • Humous
  • Ready to eat sausages
  • Instant soup
  • Nuts and dried fruits
  • Tea or coffee

Dinner:

  • Instant rice or pasta
  • Tinned tuna or chicken
  • Instant soup
  • Freeze-dried meal
  • Tea or coffee

Snacks:

  • Chocolate
  • Muesli bars
  • Biscuits
  • Nuts
  • Frooze Balls

Equipment

Only if you camp:

For campsites and huts:

  • Backpack with a waterproof cover
    40-60L should be enough for a multiday hike.
  • Waterproof bag
    Used as extra protection inside your backpack to put electronics and spare clothes inside.
  • Sleeping bag
    It can get cold no matter what time of the year so 3-4 seasons sleeping bag would be perfect. In mid of February, the temperature on Kepler Track dropped to 2C in the night so I was happy my sleeping bag comfort rating was 0C. It’s much warmer if you sleep in a hut, though you still need a sleeping bag as there are only bunk beds with mattresses.
  • Drinking bottle 1-1.5 L
    Water is always available next to the huts and campsites. It’s rainwater, fine for drinking without treatment. If you have doubts, boil it first or use the Sawyer water filter.
  • Cooking pot
    I’m using MSR PocketRocket 2 Mini Stove Kit which proved to be great size and quality.
  • Gas stove
    Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
  • Fuel
    Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
  • Plastic cutlery
  • Cup
  • Sharp survival knife
  • Cleaning set
  • Matches / lighter
  • Light camera or phone with a camera
  • Power bank / spare camera battery
  • Bin bags
    Whatever you bring in to the national park, you have to bring it out and throw away when you reach civilization.
  • Hut/campsite tickets
    These have to be picked up at DOC visitor centre before you depart.
  • Map
    Can be found at DOC visitor centre as well.
  • Earplugs
    Useful especially in bunkrooms in huts.
Kepler Track, New Zealand
Kepler Track

Clothing

It rains quite often in New Zealand, therefore you need to be prepared for changing weather conditions. Not to mention the fact that in February I experienced snow on Kepler Track. Warms and waterproof clothes are essential to increase your comfort on the trail.

  • Boots that are comfortable and well broken in
    Shoes are the most important element of your clothing, especially when hiking in the mountains with a heavy backpack. Your comfort and safety depend on them. Make sure that they are top-class shoes that you trust. For all Great Walks, I used La Sportiva TX5. Even though it took quite a while to break them in, they are extremely light, comfortable and provide great stabilization for my feet.
  • Raincoat with hood
  • Trousers
  • Waterproof over trousers
  • Jumper or sweater
    For cold mornings and evening or even for sleeping in case your sleeping bag is not warm enough.
  • T-shirt (at least 2)
  • Long sleeve shirt
  • Pair of thermals
  • Shorts
  • Buff
    It’s light and can be worn on the head, neck or wrist.
  • Flip flops / lightweight shoes for a campsite
    You will want to let your feet rest from heavy boots and feel more comfortable while hanging around campsite or hut.
  • Hiking socks
    I recommend taking an extra pair. Nothing is worse than wet feet.
  • Underwear
  • Hat
  • Gloves
    Rather for mountain tracks only.
  • Swimwear
    May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.
  • Extra clothes for sleeping
  • Sunglasses

Toiletries

  • Toothpaste
  • Toothbrush
  • Wet tissues
  • Toilet paper
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Soap
    There are usually sinks with rainwater next to the huts so you can use them for basic needs.
  • Small quick-dry towel
    May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.

Safety

  • Flashlight (headlight is the best)
  • Spare batteries
  • First aid incl. antiseptic, pain killers, bandages, blisters kit, personal meds
  • Insect repellent
  • Sunscreen
  • Spare matches / lighter in a waterproof container
  • Spare set of warm clothes
  • Whistle
  • Personal documents (ID, passport) in a waterproof bag

I wouldn’t say that personal locator beacon is really needed on Great Walks. The trail is well marked and it would be difficult to get lost. Before you go, just tell someone about your plans and how long you plan to be on a trail.

Milford Track, New Zealand

Do you have your favourite items that you take with you on multiday hikes? Let me know in the comments!