Tangier, a city on the northern coast of Morocco where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, has a history marked by its strategic location and cultural diversity. Its history spans ancient civilizations, colonial struggles, and modern transformation.
For many, this is where they make their first step into African territory, after crossing Gibraltar Strait. Although the city doesn’t have as strong Moroccan vibe as other towns further south, it’s a worthy stopover to get the full picture of the history of this fascinating country.
History
Tangier’s origins trace back to antiquity, with evidence of settlement by the Berbers as early as the 5th millennium BCE. According to mythology, the city was named after “Tinjis,” the wife of the Greek hero Antaeus or Hercules. Tangier’s location made it a focal point for early Mediterranean trade and exploration. By the 1st millennium BCE, the Phoenicians and later the Carthaginians had established trading posts there.
During the Roman era, Tangier, known as Tingis, became a significant city within the province of Mauretania Tingitana. It thrived under Roman rule, benefiting from its position as a commercial hub. The city was known for its agricultural exports, particularly olives and grain. By the 3rd century CE, Tingis was designated as the provincial capital. However, with the decline of Roman power in North Africa in the 5th century, Tangier entered a period of relative obscurity.
In the 7th century, Tangier was incorporated into the expanding Islamic Caliphate following the Muslim conquest of North Africa. The city became a launching point for further expansion into the Iberian Peninsula under leaders such as Tariq ibn Ziyad, whose crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar in 711 CE marked the start of Muslim rule in Spain. Tangier flourished as part of the Islamic world, serving as a centre for trade and culture.
Tangier’s strategic location made it a contested city during the medieval period. It was ruled by a succession of Islamic dynasties, including the Idrisids, Almoravids, Almohads, and Marinids. The city frequently changed hands due to internal rivalries and external pressures. Its significance as a port attracted both regional powers and foreign invaders.
By the 15th century, European powers began to take an interest in Tangier, viewing it as a key point for controlling trade routes and securing access to Africa. In 1471, the Portuguese captured Tangier, marking the beginning of European rule. The Portuguese fortified the city but struggled to maintain control due to resistance from local populations and the challenges of governing a distant colony.
Tangier was handed over to England as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when she married King Charles II in 1661. Under British rule, the city was fortified further, but maintaining it proved costly and difficult. Faced with attacks from surrounding tribes and high expenses, the British abandoned Tangier in 1684, and it was returned to Moroccan control under the Alaouite dynasty.
During the 19th century, Tangier became a focal point of international intrigue as European powers jockeyed for influence in Morocco. The city’s strategic position near the Strait of Gibraltar attracted diplomats, spies, and traders. Tangier served as Morocco’s diplomatic capital and became known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere. Its mixed population included Moroccans, Europeans, and Jews, reflecting its role as a crossroads of cultures.
In 1923, Tangier was designated as an international zone under a multinational agreement. This unique arrangement gave administrative authority to several European powers, including France, Spain, and Britain, while nominally remaining under Moroccan sovereignty. The international zone attracted a mix of expatriates, artists, and adventurers, earning a reputation as a hub of espionage and bohemian culture during the interwar period.
After Morocco gained independence from French and Spanish colonial rule in 1956, Tangier was reintegrated into the country. This transition ended its international status, and the city underwent significant changes. While its prominence diminished in the mid-20th century, Tangier experienced a cultural revival in the 1960s, attracting figures from the Beat Generation and counterculture movements.
In recent decades, Tangier has undergone extensive modernization and development. The construction of the Tanger-Med port, one of the largest in Africa, has revitalized the city’s economy. Today, Tangier is a vibrant cultural and economic centre, blending its rich historical heritage with contemporary growth. Its medina, kasbah, and historical landmarks continue to draw visitors, while its position as a gateway between Africa and Europe remains as significant as ever.
How to get there?
By Air
Tangier’s Ibn Battuta Airport (TNG) serves as the primary gateway for travellers arriving by plane. It offers flights from major Moroccan cities as well as international destinations in Europe and beyond.
From the airport, Tangier city centre is about 15 kilometres away, easily reachable by taxi or private transfer.
By Train
High-Speed Train (Al Boraq) connects Tangier to Casablanca in just over 2 hours, with stops in Rabat and Kenitra. Trains are comfortable, reliable, and fast, making this a preferred option for many travellers.
Conventional trains also serve Tangier, linking it with other cities at a lower cost but longer travel times.
By Car
Tangier is accessible by car via Morocco’s modern highway system.
From Casablanca to Rabat:
The A1 highway connects Tangier to southern cities. Driving from Casablanca takes around 4–5 hours.
From Spain:
Travellers can take a car ferry from Algeciras or Tarifa and drive into Tangier upon arrival.
Car rentals are widely available, and the roads are well-maintained. However, driving in Tangier’s city centre can be challenging due to narrow streets and heavy traffic.
By Bus
CTM and Supratour offer comfortable and reliable services, with routes connecting Tangier to cities like Chefchaouen, Fez, and Marrakech.
Other Operators also operate buses, though quality and reliability vary.
By Boat
Tangier is a key maritime hub with ferry connections across the Mediterranean and has two main ports:
Port of Tangier Ville: Located near the medina, ideal for tourists.
Tanger-Med Port: A larger port about 40 kilometres from the city, primarily for cargo and long-distance ferries.
From Spain:
Ferries operate from Tarifa and Algeciras to Tangier. The Tarifa-Tangier Ville route is particularly popular for its convenience and proximity to the city centre.
Travel time ranges from 1 to 2 hours depending on the route and ferry service.
From Gibraltar:
Seasonal or charter ferries may operate, but check availability as schedules vary.
From France or Italy:
Long-distance ferries occasionally connect Tangier with southern Europe, but these routes are less frequent.
By Shared Taxi
Shared taxis, known as grands taxis, operate on intercity routes and are a cost-effective way to reach Tangier from nearby towns like Tetouan or Chefchaouen. They usually depart once full and can be a more local, immersive experience.
How to get around Tangier?
Getting around Tangier is relatively easy thanks to its variety of transportation options. Whether you’re exploring the medina, visiting the beaches, or venturing to nearby attractions, you can choose the method that best suits your needs.
Walking
Best for exploring the old medina, kasbah, and central areas. Wear comfortable shoes, as the medina has steep, cobbled streets and be mindful of street vendors and locals offering unsolicited guidance; they may expect tips.
Petit Taxis
These small, blue taxis are the most common form of transportation in Tangier. They are metered, but you may need to remind drivers to use the meter. Taxis are cheaper during the day; night fares may have a 50% surcharge.
Grand Taxis
Best for travelling to nearby destinations like Cap Spartel, Achakar Beach, or Chefchaouen. They are larger and can carry up to 6 passengers. Shared rides are cost-effective but depart only when full; private hires are quicker but more expensive.
Public Buses
Best for budget-friendly travellers as the cost is around 5–8 MAD per trip. They may be crowded, especially during rush hours.
Tourist Transport (Hop-On, Hop-Off Buses)
Best for sightseeing without the hassle of navigating public transportation. Tickets often include commentary about the city’s history and landmarks and they cost around 150–200 MAD for a day pass.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Tangier largely depends on your preferences for weather, activities, and crowd levels.
Spring (March to May)
Temperatures are mild, ranging from 15°C to 25°C. Clear skies and blooming flowers make this a delightful season. Ideal for exploring the medina, hiking in the Rif Mountains, or enjoying the beaches without the intense heat. Moderate tourist levels make it easy to enjoy the city without overcrowding.
Summer (June to August)
Warm and sunny, with temperatures between 20°C and 30°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Perfect for beach outings at nearby spots like Achakar Beach or Cap Spartel. The city is lively with cultural festivals and events. High tourist season, especially in July and August, with visitors from Europe and Morocco. Accommodation prices are higher, and attractions may be busier.
Autumn (September to November)
Comfortable temperatures (17°C to 27°C), with the summer heat fading but still warm enough to enjoy the outdoors. Great for cultural exploration and coastal activities. The sea is still warm for swimming, and sunsets are particularly beautiful. Less busy than in summer, offering a quieter experience while still enjoying favourable weather.
Winter (December to February)
Cooler but mild, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 18°C. Rain is more frequent, but not usually disruptive. Great for sightseeing in the medina, kasbah, and museums. Winter is less ideal for beaches but good for a peaceful, crowd-free visit. Low tourist season, making it a budget-friendly time. Hotels and flights are often cheaper.
Where to stay?
I spent my first two days in town in Dar Essaki 1886. It was located in a very narrow street inside the medina and the decoration and atmosphere inside were great. However, the room was claustrophobic and it was difficult to move around.
Then, I moved to an amazing apartment that I found on AirBnB and which was hosted by Muhammad. It was huge! Fast Wi-FI was available, there was a heater in the bedroom (useful in December) and the view from the rooftop terrace was breathtaking!
What to see in Tangier?
Grand Socco
One of the most iconic and vibrant places in Tangier. Officially named Place du 9 Avril 1947 to commemorate a significant speech by Sultan Mohammed V advocating for Moroccan independence.
Historically, the Grand Socco served as a large open-air marketplace where locals gathered to trade goods such as produce, textiles, and spices. Its lively market scene made it the heart of Tangier’s daily life.
During the period of international influence in Tangier (early to mid-20th century), the Grand Socco became a meeting point between the European colonial quarters and the traditional Moroccan medina.
The Grand Socco is no longer a market in the traditional sense, but it remains a lively, dynamic square filled with a mix of street vendors, locals, and tourists. It is surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and small shops offering a range of goods and services. It’s a great place to simply chill on the bench and people-watch.
Around the square, there are Mendoubia Garden, Cinema Rif and Bab Al Fahs, all worth checking out.
Mendoubia Gardens provide a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle, featuring ancient trees and shaded walkways.
Cinema Rif is a well-known cultural establishment. which functions as a movie theatre, cafe and cultural hub. Its charm and character are enhanced by the fact that it is located in a historic building that was constructed in the 1930s.
Bab Al Fahs serves as one of the main entrances to Tangier’s old medina, making it a starting point for exploring the city’s historical heart.
Tangier American Legation Museum
Morocco was the first country to formally recognize the United States’ independence in 1777, during the American Revolutionary War. The Tangier Legation was established in 1821 when Sultan Moulay Suliman gifted the property to the U.S. government.
The building functioned as a diplomatic mission for more than 140 years, serving as the U.S. consulate and legation. It played a key role in fostering U.S.-Morocco relations. The legation also served as a hub for diplomacy during critical periods, including World War II.
The museum includes letters exchanged between Sultan Mohammed III and American presidents like George Washington and an impressive collection of paintings.
Museum Dar Niaba
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tangier was an international zone governed by multiple powers. The Dar Niaba was originally the residence and office of the Naib (Deputy), a representative of the Moroccan Sultan.
The building retains its traditional Moroccan architectural style, featuring elegant tilework, carved wooden ceilings, and a central courtyard typical of Moroccan riads. Inside, you can see documents, maps, correspondence, treaties and artefacts related to Tangier’s political history and its role as an international zone.
Grande Mosque
The site originally hosted a Roman temple during the Mauretania Tingitana period. During the Portuguese (1471–1661) and later English occupation (1661–1684), it was converted into the Church of the Holy Spirit.
After Sultan Moulay Ismail reclaimed Tangier in 1684, the church was transformed into a mosque, symbolizing the return to Islamic rule.
Sultan Moulay Slimane rebuilt it in the 19th century, creating the mosque we see today, with traditional Moroccan architectural elements.
Moshe Nahon Synagogue
In the 19th century, Moïse Nahon, a well-known scholar and educator from a powerful Jewish family in Tangier, built this synagogue. After ceasing operations in the latter half of the 20th century, the synagogue deteriorated until it was restored in 1994. Today, it serves as a museum.
Lorin Foundation Museum
The Lorin Foundation Museum, which was once one of Tangier’s oldest synagogues, has been transformed into an art museum to document and honour the city’s past. There are extensive collections of photographs, newspaper clippings, and posters that document important events and provide insights into the lives of the city’s ordinary people.
Petit Socco
It used to be the most infamous intersection in town and the scene of drug sales and many types of prostitution. Today the facades are newly painted, there are lots of tourists, and the square is a great place to enjoy a cup of mint tea while observing the people.
Immaculate Conception Church
Just west of the Petit Socco stands the church whose construction was funded by the Obra Pía and the Spanish government and began in October 1880. It was complemented in 1892-93 by the edification of a clock tower, originally topped with a spire and later changed to the present-day cupola. The church initially served the whole city’s Catholic community, including European diplomats.
Mosque Mohammed V
The Mohammed V Mosque bears the name of Mohammed V, who ruled Morocco as king from 1957 to 1961 and as sultan from 1927 to 1953. The mosque is among the largest in Morocco and the largest in Tangier. Access to the mosque’s main area is restricted to Muslims who are there to pray.
Just next to the mosque, you may find grand taxis heading to Cap Spartel.
Tomb of Ibn Batutta
Ibn Battuta, a scholar and judge, was born in Tangier in 1304 and became the greatest traveller of the era First, he traversed North Africa, the Middle East, Russia, Central Asia, and China before returning via Sri Lanka and East Africa. Then, he made a halt at home and continued travelling to West Africa over the Sahara before deciding to put everything in writing in 1355.
Unfortunately, the tomb is locked so you can only see it outside.
Saint Andrew’s Church
This Anglican church was finished in 1894 on land given by Sultan Hassan. Its interior is ornamented in the high Fassi style, and above the altar is the Lord’s Prayer in Arabic. Quranic quotations are engraved onto a fissure behind the altar that points in the direction of Mecca. It’s worth spending some time in the cemetery too.
Place Faro
It is more like a big, wide sidewalk than a square, but the views of the ocean and Spain are nice.
Kasbah and the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures
A historic fortified area, perched on a hill overlooking the city and the Strait of Gibraltar. It features narrow streets, traditional Moroccan architecture, and important landmarks such as the Sultan’s Palace (Dar el-Makhzen).
Inside the palace, there is the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, which showcases the diverse heritage of the Mediterranean region. Its exhibits include ancient artefacts, ceramics, jewellery, and artwork highlighting the historical interactions between Morocco and neighbouring Mediterranean cultures.
Museum of Contemporary Art
Just next to the Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures and on the same ticket. This place presents an intriguing collection of contemporary works of art by artists from North Africa and Asia. Unfortunately, no English descriptions.
Bab Al Bahr
The most scenic entrance to the medina, which dates back to the 15th century. Soldiers protecting Tangier kept watch for invading fleets from this location, which is also known as the Gate of the Sea because it overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar.
Phoenician Toms
The ancient burial sites carved into the rock, date back to the Phoenician era (approximately 8th–6th centuries BCE). Located on a hill overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, these tombs are a testament to Tangier’s early history as a key port and settlement in the Mediterranean. Very cool and scenic place!
The Phoenicians were an influential seafaring people from the Eastern Mediterranean (modern-day Lebanon). They established trading posts across the Mediterranean, including Tangier, which was a strategic hub.
These tombs are linked to later periods when Carthage and Rome exerted influence in the region, blending Phoenician culture with North African traditions.
Marshan Palace
The structure was first constructed in the early 1950s to house the Tangier International Zone Legislative Assembly. The structure was converted into a monarchy property after Morocco gained independence in 1956 and was proclaimed a kingdom on August 14, 1957. King Mohammed VI renovated the palace in the 2010s to use it as a location for diplomatic gatherings.
It is not open to the public and can only be seen from the outside.
Palais des Institutions Italiennes
It was constructed in 1912–1913 to serve as the former Sultan Abdelhafid’s primary house after his abdication, but it was never put to use. After being acquired by Italy in 1927, it was renamed Palazzo Littorio and housed several government buildings, including a hospital and schools. It was renamed Casa d’Italia by the Badoglio administration in 1943, and the Palace of the Italian Institutions was the new name a few years later. Despite being refurbished in the early 2000s and still housing a variety of Italian-related activities, it has long been neglected.
It is not open to the public and can only be seen from the outside.
Merkala Beach
A small beach surrounded by mountains in the west of Tangier. Follow the seafront promenade to get there, which is a beautiful walk.
Rmilat Park & Villa Perdicaris
The 70-hectare public park is situated between the Jebel Kebir Royal Palace to the east and the Cape Spartel reserve to the west on the northern slopes of the Jebel Kebir peak, which faces the Strait of Gibraltar. It bears the name of Ion Hanford Perdicaris, a Greek-American renowned figure who set it up in the 1870s and erected an eclectic villa in the middle. He was abducted there during the Perdicaris Incident in 1904.
Ion Perdicaris and his stepson were kidnapped by a Berber warlord named Ahmed al-Raisuli, who was both a bandit and a political rebel. Raisuli demanded a ransom, political concessions, and safe passage in exchange for Perdicaris and his stepson.
Although Perdicaris was not a U.S. citizen at the time (he had renounced his citizenship), President Theodore Roosevelt treated the case as a national priority. He ordered U.S. warships to Tangier to exert pressure on the Moroccan Sultan and Raisuli.
The incident was resolved without violence. The Moroccan Sultan negotiated with Raisuli, meeting many of his demands, including the ransom. Perdicaris and his stepson were released unharmed.
Villa Perdicaris can be visited but the entry is paid and it costs 7 times more for foreign visitors than for locals and I decided to skip it due to this fact.
Dar Al-Baroud Tower
Borj Dar El Baroud was a military fortress with a number of impressive batteries that date back to the 15th century. Along with a collection of weaponry and military gear, the location is devoted to a permanent display that chronicles the history of the city’s artillery and defended buildings using maps, photographs, and models.
Municipal Beach
Nice public beach for a longer stroll or just relaxing. You can pay a few dirhams to rent a plastic chair. Additionally, it’s possible to ride a horse or a camel. There are lots of bars and restaurants nearby.
What to see out of town?
Cape Spartel and Hercules Caves
Cape Spartel Hercules Caves are great spots to check out if you’re visiting Tangier for more than one day. Visiting them will take you about half a day, but you can easily make it a full day if the weather is hot enough to let you spend some time enjoying beautiful nearby beaches.
You can read more about these places in a separate post HERE.
